250W Radium

Any one using the Radium bulbs have any problems. I have been using one for
30 days with nothing but trouble. When I switch on the ballst, I must
unscrew the bulb slighty to get the thing to fire off. Once it comes on it
works fine.

The bulb is installed in a NIB blue wave ballast and reflector. I have
changed out the mogul to one of higher quailty but still have the same
problem. I have also soldered all contections. not sure what to do now. The
ignighter may be next.

fishman wrote:
Any one using the Radium bulbs have any problems. I have been using one for
30 days with nothing but trouble. When I switch on the ballst, I must
unscrew the bulb slighty to get the thing to fire off. Once it comes on it
works fine.

The bulb is installed in a NIB blue wave ballast and reflector. I have
changed out the mogul to one of higher quailty but still have the same
problem. I have also soldered all contections. not sure what to do now. The
ignighter may be next.



I've been using two of them in Hellolights retrofit fixtures with no
problem at all. Its been almost a year (need to change them, long
overdue, I know) never had firing issues. I'd suspect its not the bulb's
fault. The ignitier sounds like a good place to start.

-mat

Using "solder (Lead - A soft metal that requires minimal heat to melt)" in a
high voltage/high current item is asking for trouble big time, when the
solder dries out or becomes airated it can explode, the heat can melt the
solder and cuase a fire, now that would be bad news when your not home, or
release a toxic smell/gas that will most likely effect the tank some how.

Thats my safety tip for the day.

-Andrew


"fishman" wrote in message
...
Any one using the Radium bulbs have any problems. I have been using one
for
30 days with nothing but trouble. When I switch on the ballst, I must
unscrew the bulb slighty to get the thing to fire off. Once it comes on it
works fine.

The bulb is installed in a NIB blue wave ballast and reflector. I have
changed out the mogul to one of higher quailty but still have the same
problem. I have also soldered all contections. not sure what to do now.
The
ignighter may be next.

I have heard this before, but from those who deal with high end audio
systems. audiofiles do not like to solder connections for speakers. I always
thought this was a easy way out for installers who would rather twist lock
wires together instead of soldering them. Most solder is 60/40 lead and
tin, so the heat required is 200-250 F to melt, indeed not very hot when
compared to the temp of a MH. But I wanted to know that my connections are
solid. At this point I hope the whole damn light fixture/balast explodes
into vapor and ash (without upseting my fish of coarse). but when I open the
thing back up to change the capacitor I'll go back to the twist nuts. thanks
for the tip


"skozzy" wrote in message
...
Using "solder (Lead - A soft metal that requires minimal heat to melt)" in
a
high voltage/high current item is asking for trouble big time, when the
solder dries out or becomes airated it can explode, the heat can melt the
solder and cuase a fire, now that would be bad news when your not home, or
release a toxic smell/gas that will most likely effect the tank some how.

Thats my safety tip for the day.

-Andrew


"fishman" wrote in message
...
Any one using the Radium bulbs have any problems. I have been using one
for
30 days with nothing but trouble. When I switch on the ballst, I must
unscrew the bulb slighty to get the thing to fire off. Once it comes on
it
works fine.

The bulb is installed in a NIB blue wave ballast and reflector. I have
changed out the mogul to one of higher quailty but still have the same
problem. I have also soldered all contections. not sure what to do now.
The
ignighter may be next.