Need advice on cichlid tank please...

Hey there everyone.

I'm thinking of buying a new 20g (80L) -30g (120L) aquarium and starting a
cichlid tank. I'd like it to be a Mbuna Cichlid tank, with a couple of
pseudotropheus zebras to start. Here are a few questions I have though, and
any advice would be greatly appreciated:

- What other Mbuna species are compatible with zebras? I was thinking of
Melanochromis Auratus. Is that OK?

- What kind of filter do you suggest I get? I've heard a lot of good things
about the Penguin Bio-Wheel filters by Marineland (
http://www.marineland.com/products/c...uinfilters.asp ). Would
the "Mini" be enough for a 20g tank or should I go with the 125 regardless?
I've read that Mbuna Cichlids have to have very good filtration. Are
canister filters better? If so, any recommendations?

- I was thinking of using crushed coral as a substrate, various rockwork to
create caves, and I'd like to stay away from plants if possible. What do you
think?

Thanks in advance!

Yaz.

MIDPOSTED


"MorkFromOrk" wrote in message
news:EY1Wb.459116$X%5.366401@pd7tw2no...
Hey there everyone.

I'm thinking of buying a new 20g (80L) -30g (120L) aquarium and starting a
cichlid tank. I'd like it to be a Mbuna Cichlid tank, with a couple of
pseudotropheus zebras to start. Here are a few questions I have though,
and
any advice would be greatly appreciated:

- What other Mbuna species are compatible with zebras? I was thinking of
Melanochromis Auratus. Is that OK?

The Auratus is a violent bugger IME. YMMV
IMO, put the Auratus in after the zebras, this will help establish a decent
pecking order.


- What kind of filter do you suggest I get? I've heard a lot of good
things
about the Penguin Bio-Wheel filters by Marineland (
http://www.marineland.com/products/c...uinfilters.asp ).
Would
the "Mini" be enough for a 20g tank or should I go with the 125
regardless?
I've read that Mbuna Cichlids have to have very good filtration. Are
canister filters better? If so, any recommendations?

Ive never actually used the biowheel myself but I'm pretty sure it will be
more effective than a canister filter. I have 2 filters on my 3 foot Malawi
tank, an aquaclear and a sponge filter/powerhead combo. They like the
current from the powerhead! I would say go with the oversized filter, your
fish and yourself will appreciate it in the long run.


- I was thinking of using crushed coral as a substrate, various rockwork
to
create caves, and I'd like to stay away from plants if possible. What do
you
think?

Sounds fine, you're off to a good start. Remember to make sure your tank can
support the rock load, would'nt want the tank to fall through its ass
If you do decide on plants then Vallisneria, java fern and Anubias would be
ok.
--
**So long, and thanks for all the fish!**


Thanks in advance!

Yaz.

"MorkFromOrk" wrote in message
news:EY1Wb.459116$X%5.366401@pd7tw2no...
Hey there everyone.

I'm thinking of buying a new 20g (80L) -30g (120L) aquarium and
starting a
cichlid tank. I'd like it to be a Mbuna Cichlid tank, with a couple of
pseudotropheus zebras to start. Here are a few questions I have though,
and
any advice would be greatly appreciated:

- What other Mbuna species are compatible with zebras? I was thinking
of
Melanochromis Auratus. Is that OK?

On the mbuna scale of aggression, where Labs are a low '1', Zebras are an
'8' and Auratus are a '10'. In a 20-30g tank, then in 18 months there is
a very good chance that you will have one fish left in your tank. It
will be black with a yellow stripe. There are smaller gentler African
cichlids available, otherwise take a look at bigger tanks (55g +).

- What kind of filter do you suggest I get? I've heard a lot of good
things
about the Penguin Bio-Wheel filters by Marineland (
http://www.marineland.com/products/c...uinfilters.asp ).
Would
the "Mini" be enough for a 20g tank or should I go with the 125
regardless?
I've read that Mbuna Cichlids have to have very good filtration. Are
canister filters better? If so, any recommendations?

I always overfilter African tanks (the extra turbulence to get around the
rockwork, the extra biological filtration to compensate for the waste
from their high protein feedings and lack of significant plants, the
extra mechanical pickup power for their cr*p).

- I was thinking of using crushed coral as a substrate, various
rockwork to
create caves, and I'd like to stay away from plants if possible. What
do you
think?

This is not an uncommon set-up. A good application for carbon filtration
and bio-wheel technology. Plants are possible, but selection &
protection needs to be thought out, and are not compatible with all
Africans.

NetMax

Thanks in advance!

Yaz.

NetMax wrote in message ...

"MorkFromOrk" wrote in message
news:EY1Wb.459116$X%5.366401@pd7tw2no...
Hey there everyone.

I'm thinking of buying a new 20g (80L) -30g (120L) aquarium and
starting a
cichlid tank. I'd like it to be a Mbuna Cichlid tank, with a couple of
pseudotropheus zebras to start. Here are a few questions I have though,
and
any advice would be greatly appreciated:

- What other Mbuna species are compatible with zebras? I was thinking
of
Melanochromis Auratus. Is that OK?

On the mbuna scale of aggression, where Labs are a low '1', Zebras are an
'8' and Auratus are a '10'. In a 20-30g tank, then in 18 months there is
a very good chance that you will have one fish left in your tank. It
will be black with a yellow stripe. There are smaller gentler African
cichlids available, otherwise take a look at bigger tanks (55g +).

- What kind of filter do you suggest I get? I've heard a lot of good
things
about the Penguin Bio-Wheel filters by Marineland (
http://www.marineland.com/products/c...uinfilters.asp ).
Would
the "Mini" be enough for a 20g tank or should I go with the 125
regardless?
I've read that Mbuna Cichlids have to have very good filtration. Are
canister filters better? If so, any recommendations?

I always overfilter African tanks (the extra turbulence to get around the
rockwork, the extra biological filtration to compensate for the waste
from their high protein feedings and lack of significant plants, the
extra mechanical pickup power for their cr*p).

- I was thinking of using crushed coral as a substrate, various
rockwork to
create caves, and I'd like to stay away from plants if possible. What
do you
think?

This is not an uncommon set-up. A good application for carbon filtration
and bio-wheel technology. Plants are possible, but selection &
protection needs to be thought out, and are not compatible with all
Africans.

NetMax


I have some F1 german bred Red zebras, I find them to be the most peaceful
fish in my tank. they show no aggression to each other or any other tank
mates.

one thing you will find is that the colouration can change from a very deep
orange to a very washed out colour, almost albino like.. I have no idea why,
mine do it from time to time, in no particular pattern and for no particular
reason..

the most aggressive fish in my tank is actually a male Yellow Lab.. hows
that.. but really I have never had a great deal of trouble with aggression
in my tank. it's 125g with 22 fish.. they have lots of space...

"Paul" wrote in message
...

NetMax wrote in message ...

"MorkFromOrk" wrote in message
news:EY1Wb.459116$X%5.366401@pd7tw2no...
Hey there everyone.

I'm thinking of buying a new 20g (80L) -30g (120L) aquarium and
starting a
cichlid tank. I'd like it to be a Mbuna Cichlid tank, with a couple
of
pseudotropheus zebras to start. Here are a few questions I have
though,
and
any advice would be greatly appreciated:

- What other Mbuna species are compatible with zebras? I was
thinking
of
Melanochromis Auratus. Is that OK?

On the mbuna scale of aggression, where Labs are a low '1', Zebras are
an
'8' and Auratus are a '10'. In a 20-30g tank, then in 18 months there
is
a very good chance that you will have one fish left in your tank. It
will be black with a yellow stripe. There are smaller gentler African
cichlids available, otherwise take a look at bigger tanks (55g +).

- What kind of filter do you suggest I get? I've heard a lot of good
things
about the Penguin Bio-Wheel filters by Marineland (

http://www.marineland.com/products/c...uinfilters.asp ).
Would
the "Mini" be enough for a 20g tank or should I go with the 125
regardless?
I've read that Mbuna Cichlids have to have very good filtration. Are
canister filters better? If so, any recommendations?

I always overfilter African tanks (the extra turbulence to get around
the
rockwork, the extra biological filtration to compensate for the waste
from their high protein feedings and lack of significant plants, the
extra mechanical pickup power for their cr*p).

- I was thinking of using crushed coral as a substrate, various
rockwork to
create caves, and I'd like to stay away from plants if possible.
What
do you
think?

This is not an uncommon set-up. A good application for carbon
filtration
and bio-wheel technology. Plants are possible, but selection &
protection needs to be thought out, and are not compatible with all
Africans.

NetMax


I have some F1 german bred Red zebras, I find them to be the most
peaceful
fish in my tank. they show no aggression to each other or any other
tank
mates.

one thing you will find is that the colouration can change from a very
deep
orange to a very washed out colour, almost albino like.. I have no idea
why,
mine do it from time to time, in no particular pattern and for no
particular
reason..

the most aggressive fish in my tank is actually a male Yellow Lab..
hows
that.. but really I have never had a great deal of trouble with
aggression
in my tank. it's 125g with 22 fish.. they have lots of space...

LOL, thanks for sharing Paul. I hate trying to generalize fish behaviour
because of so many exceptions. Having a proper sized tank also changes a
lot of what you would expect from their reputations. Larger tanks seem
to make everything work out better.

NetMax

LOL, thanks for sharing Paul. I hate trying to generalize fish behaviour
because of so many exceptions. Having a proper sized tank also changes a
lot of what you would expect from their reputations. Larger tanks seem
to make everything work out better.

NetMax

yes it's always the way.. I seem to be blessed with particularly calm fish..
even when the temp is up to 30 degrees Celcius (you'll have to do your own
conversion, but that's quite hot) they will get a bit more active, but no
fish ever gets chased more than a quick 2 inch "swish".

I don't know why.. I'm a pretty non-aggressive person, maybe it just rubs
off on the fish...

It could be that I got the traditionally non-aggressive fish a bit bigger
than the mbuna...

Thanks for the input guys!

Ciao!
Yaz.

"Paul" wrote in message
...

LOL, thanks for sharing Paul. I hate trying to generalize fish behaviour
because of so many exceptions. Having a proper sized tank also changes a
lot of what you would expect from their reputations. Larger tanks seem
to make everything work out better.

NetMax

yes it's always the way.. I seem to be blessed with particularly calm
fish..
even when the temp is up to 30 degrees Celcius (you'll have to do your
own
conversion, but that's quite hot) they will get a bit more active, but no
fish ever gets chased more than a quick 2 inch "swish".

I don't know why.. I'm a pretty non-aggressive person, maybe it just rubs
off on the fish...

It could be that I got the traditionally non-aggressive fish a bit bigger
than the mbuna...

Estheraes?
they are, according to various sites I've read, the least aggressive or
zebras by far...
My yellow is very aggressive too, he's almost always bruised from picking
fights and standing his ground against fish that always beat him. hoping the
next bigger tank will mellow him some.