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#1
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I'm in the process of migrating from artifial to live plants. My set
up is a 55gal tank, Eheim Professional II Canister filter, Coral Life compact flourescent light 230 watts. My chemistry is Ph 7.0 dKH 4 dGH 10 Nitrites 0 Amonia 0 Nitrates 80 For the first two weeks my KH was only 1 or 2. I've always used R/O water but this I decided to mix some tap with R/O to raise it. The KH rose to 4 but I think I stressed the fish to much with the water changes because many of them developed ick. At that point, I began treatment with meds and bought a heater to raise the temp 85. Shortly thereafter, i began to notice brown algae on plants. I have a few questions. If I stick to R/O water, what can I use to raise it's KH to 3-4? What is a normal water temp fluctuation? Should I keep the heater on so the water temp does not drop during the night? What can I use to eliminate the algae? BTW, while I'm waiting on the CO2 injection system, I'm using the jungle fizz from a friend. Thanks Jerry PS: Please post your reply to the group as the email addy is not valid to prevent spam. |
#2
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One teaspon of baking soda per 12 gallons should raise KH by about 4 degrees
KH. Remember that manipulating KH has an affect on PH. If you are going to monitor PH to control CO2 levels, getting an undestanding of this is critical. You have a lot of light on in your tank without CO2. You should have CO2 running with that much light, and while you do not, I recommend reducing light levels, say to 1 watt per gallon or so. Otherwise, you will really have endless trouble. Many plants will do fine at the reduced lighting level, especially if it is only temporary. Basically, you control algae by making conditions for higher plants highly favorable for growth. This means you need to systematically ensure all the major components are in place to make your plants grow. Proper nutrients, including CO2 and lighting, are critical. When you are missing any major component, you will find higher plants can suffer and as a result, algae, of one kind or another, will thrive. I suggest you take a look at Chuck Gadds web site. Read his articles on starting up a new tank, and on plant nutrients. His site is located at URL http://www.csd.net/~cgadd/aqua/. Also see the Krib at http://www.thekrib.com/. There is also information about controlling CO2 based on knowledge of PH and KH at Chuck's web site also. Chuck even has a free windows based nutrient calculator available. Take a look.. Bruce Geist http://www.wideopenwest.com/~brucegeist "Rico" wrote in message ... I'm in the process of migrating from artifial to live plants. My set up is a 55gal tank, Eheim Professional II Canister filter, Coral Life compact flourescent light 230 watts. My chemistry is Ph 7.0 dKH 4 dGH 10 Nitrites 0 Amonia 0 Nitrates 80 For the first two weeks my KH was only 1 or 2. I've always used R/O water but this I decided to mix some tap with R/O to raise it. The KH rose to 4 but I think I stressed the fish to much with the water changes because many of them developed ick. At that point, I began treatment with meds and bought a heater to raise the temp 85. Shortly thereafter, i began to notice brown algae on plants. I have a few questions. If I stick to R/O water, what can I use to raise it's KH to 3-4? What is a normal water temp fluctuation? Should I keep the heater on so the water temp does not drop during the night? What can I use to eliminate the algae? BTW, while I'm waiting on the CO2 injection system, I'm using the jungle fizz from a friend. Thanks Jerry PS: Please post your reply to the group as the email addy is not valid to prevent spam. |
#3
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Rico wrote in message . ..
I'm in the process of migrating from artifial to live plants. My set up is a 55gal tank, Eheim Professional II Canister filter, Coral Life compact flourescent light 230 watts. My chemistry is Ph 7.0 dKH 4 dGH 10 Nitrites 0 Amonia 0 Nitrates 80 Too much NO3 and too much light. If you are using CO2, this is still a huge amount of light. Without CO2 it is a recipe for algae and problems. 1/2 this amount of lighting would be better and fine with a CO2 enriched tank. 50-70% weekly water changes will correct things for you. What is wrong with your tap water BTW? Why use RO and go through all that hassle? Is it for the fish? Plants do better in harder water. Fish will not stress out due to hard water increases of say 2-4KH. Altums and Discus did fine. Something else is causing the fish ick, maybe 80ppm of NO3..... Otto cats will eat brown algae, diatoms. If I stick to R/O water, what can I use to raise it's KH to 3-4? As said, baking soda. What is a normal water temp fluctuation? Should I keep the heater on so the water temp does not drop during the night? 2 degrees perhaps. What can I use to eliminate the algae? Grow the plants and have lots of them. BTW, while I'm waiting on the CO2 injection system, I'm using the jungle fizz from a friend. That's not going to do much on a 230 w, 4+ w/gal PC lighted tank. You need a decent gas system, a KH of about 3 and a GH of about 5 or so. With a KH of 3, your pH target by adding CO2 gas ONLY, will be 6.5. Try and keep this pH using only CO2 gas while the lights are on and keep it close to this pH the entire time the lights are on. 6.5-6.6 is your target range for a KH of 3. Regards, Tom Barr Thanks Jerry PS: Please post your reply to the group as the email addy is not valid to prevent spam. |
#5
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Your new C02 system will probably drive your PH down anyway.
Rico wrote: I live in Florida and the water seems to be on the hard side. Here are the results of my tap water. Ph 7.4-7.6 dKH 9 dGH 15 Nitrates 0 Would you still recommend using the tap or stick with the R/o and add baking soda to it to raise it's KH? My CO2 system should be here by the middle of next week. These are the components: |
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