Bottom Drain

pmwebdesigns wrote:
No actually it was great! Thank you very much.
You wouldn't believe some of the smart comments I got from another forum.
The pond I have now is 5x11 3½ ft deep. I'm expanding next month to 15x15
4ft deep.
I want to do this pond right so I don't have to mess with it again except to
clean.
I didn't have a bottom drain on the other. Didn't know anything about one
until someone mention I needed one.
Trying to make everything I can because on a one salary it isn't much.
I just bought Greg's CD http://www.geocities.com/bickal2000/pond.htm
so hopefully I can follow that pretty good. I am not a handywoman. lol
I bought a sequence pump, huge pump. Liner will be on the way next weekend.
I'll have mine in the middle of the yard. It will be close to my back patio.
You got pictures on a website?
Priss

Hi Priss,
My pond is also close to the house. I wanted to enjoy it
year round and I do. I didn't put in a bottom drain at
first but I have added one, using a retro fit drain. This
way I didn't have to cut my liner.
My web site is pitiful right now. I started to work on it
and had to stop because of other work, but it does have a
few photos

--
Bonnie
NJ
http://home.earthlink.net/~maebe43/

"Lee B." wrote in message
...
According to the "experts" you should have one 4" gravity fed drain every
10'. To work effectively, you should have a 1/2" drop per foot to the
drain.
Don't forget the anti-vortex cover over the drain, or it will merely suck
the water from directly above instead of being forced to draw the water
from
the bottom. 4" drains are preferred because they will not clog as
readily,
and if an inquisitive fish *does* go down the drain, it has room to make
it
to the settling tank on the other end without getting stuck. DIY types can
jerry-rig a bottom drain very easily using toilet bowl flanges (one below
the liner and one above) and terra-cotta "bowl" type planters for the
anti-vortex. If you can get the type of anti-vortex that has an airdome
attached, it will accomplish two things: a) it will aerate your pond for
you, and b) the rising bubbles actually draw the bottom stuff towards the
drain.
snip

My BD is a DIY...although I never put my DIY diffuser on last year. I think
this year, I will be doing some swimming to get that done. Right now, I have
the pump running to see how it works to remove leaf matter. So far, not so
good without the diffuser.


--
BV.
www.iheartmypond.com

Do I understand what you're saying to mean that you have no cover above the
drain? If so, then that's your problem.. Water will take the path of least
resistance: it will draw from straight above rather than be forced to suck
from the bottom. Experiments were made using the lid of a trashcan for a
mold, then filling it with concrete with little PVC "legs" to keep it
elevated above the bottom by an inch or so. It didn't work too well, because
there wasn't enough room for "draw". However, same concept using a terra
cotta bowl, *partially* filled with concrete allows room for the water to
flow - and it will work. However, *some* kind of cover has to be placed
over the open hole or it won't pull from the bottom.

Is that what you meant, or did I misinterpret?

Lee

"BenignVanilla" wrote in message
...
snip

My BD is a DIY...although I never put my DIY diffuser on last year. I
think
this year, I will be doing some swimming to get that done. Right now, I
have
the pump running to see how it works to remove leaf matter. So far, not so
good without the diffuser.


--
BV.
www.iheartmypond.com

"Lee B." wrote in message
...
Do I understand what you're saying to mean that you have no cover above
the
drain? If so, then that's your problem.. Water will take the path of least
resistance: it will draw from straight above rather than be forced to suck
from the bottom. Experiments were made using the lid of a trashcan for a
mold, then filling it with concrete with little PVC "legs" to keep it
elevated above the bottom by an inch or so. It didn't work too well,
because
there wasn't enough room for "draw". However, same concept using a terra
cotta bowl, *partially* filled with concrete allows room for the water to
flow - and it will work. However, *some* kind of cover has to be placed
over the open hole or it won't pull from the bottom.

Is that what you meant, or did I misinterpret?
snip

Zactly. I installed the plumbing, the liner, and filled the pond. I have the
diffuser parts, I just never built it and installed it. I know, naughty,
naughty. But with that big hole in the ground...I had to get it full...I
didn't yet have my diffuser designed and didn't want to wait. So this year,
I'll just have to do some swimming.


--
BV.
www.iheartmypond.com

I'll just have to do some swimming.


I'm pretty Neurotic but the thought of swimming in a Koi Pond (if I had
one) sounds absolutely delicious
--
**So long, and thanks for all the fish!**

Alternatively, if you're using one of the retro-fit drains that sits on TOP
of the liner instead of through it, it will be powered by a pump, so a 2"
drain can be used.

I use one of these drains, and it uses gravity feed to the filter, not
powered by the pump, and I've seen thru the liner one's powered by a pump.
So I'd say it's the designer, not the drain type that configures the
situation. ;o) ~ jan


~ jan (Do you know where your water quality is?)

I'll just have to do some swimming.


I'm pretty Neurotic but the thought of swimming in a Koi Pond (if I had
one) sounds absolutely delicious
--
**So long, and thanks for all the fish!**

"Lee B." wrote in message
...
Do I understand what you're saying to mean that you have no cover above
the
drain? If so, then that's your problem.. Water will take the path of least
resistance: it will draw from straight above rather than be forced to suck
from the bottom. Experiments were made using the lid of a trashcan for a
mold, then filling it with concrete with little PVC "legs" to keep it
elevated above the bottom by an inch or so. It didn't work too well,
because
there wasn't enough room for "draw". However, same concept using a terra
cotta bowl, *partially* filled with concrete allows room for the water to
flow - and it will work. However, *some* kind of cover has to be placed
over the open hole or it won't pull from the bottom.

Is that what you meant, or did I misinterpret?
snip

Zactly. I installed the plumbing, the liner, and filled the pond. I have the
diffuser parts, I just never built it and installed it. I know, naughty,
naughty. But with that big hole in the ground...I had to get it full...I
didn't yet have my diffuser designed and didn't want to wait. So this year,
I'll just have to do some swimming.


--
BV.
www.iheartmypond.com

Do I understand what you're saying to mean that you have no cover above the
drain? If so, then that's your problem.. Water will take the path of least
resistance: it will draw from straight above rather than be forced to suck
from the bottom. Experiments were made using the lid of a trashcan for a
mold, then filling it with concrete with little PVC "legs" to keep it
elevated above the bottom by an inch or so. It didn't work too well, because
there wasn't enough room for "draw". However, same concept using a terra
cotta bowl, *partially* filled with concrete allows room for the water to
flow - and it will work. However, *some* kind of cover has to be placed
over the open hole or it won't pull from the bottom.

Is that what you meant, or did I misinterpret?

Lee

"BenignVanilla" wrote in message
...
snip

My BD is a DIY...although I never put my DIY diffuser on last year. I
think
this year, I will be doing some swimming to get that done. Right now, I
have
the pump running to see how it works to remove leaf matter. So far, not so
good without the diffuser.


--
BV.
www.iheartmypond.com

"Lee B." wrote in message
...
According to the "experts" you should have one 4" gravity fed drain every
10'. To work effectively, you should have a 1/2" drop per foot to the
drain.
Don't forget the anti-vortex cover over the drain, or it will merely suck
the water from directly above instead of being forced to draw the water
from
the bottom. 4" drains are preferred because they will not clog as
readily,
and if an inquisitive fish *does* go down the drain, it has room to make
it
to the settling tank on the other end without getting stuck. DIY types can
jerry-rig a bottom drain very easily using toilet bowl flanges (one below
the liner and one above) and terra-cotta "bowl" type planters for the
anti-vortex. If you can get the type of anti-vortex that has an airdome
attached, it will accomplish two things: a) it will aerate your pond for
you, and b) the rising bubbles actually draw the bottom stuff towards the
drain.
snip

My BD is a DIY...although I never put my DIY diffuser on last year. I think
this year, I will be doing some swimming to get that done. Right now, I have
the pump running to see how it works to remove leaf matter. So far, not so
good without the diffuser.


--
BV.
www.iheartmypond.com