Pond pump speed control

Is is possible to use a speed controller (like a light dimmer) with a small
pond pump?

I have a Bermuda 3000 (3000l/hr) submersible pump that's really a bit more
powerful than I need. The motor has a solid rotor that appears to be made
of a ferrite like material.

I know that speed controllers can cause overheating problems with some
motors but given that it's underwater with water bathing the rotor, I don't
imagine this would be a problem in this case.

Tim
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"Tim Downie" wrote in message
...
Is is possible to use a speed controller (like a light dimmer) with a small
pond pump?

I have a Bermuda 3000 (3000l/hr) submersible pump that's really a bit more
powerful than I need. The motor has a solid rotor that appears to be made
of a ferrite like material.

I know that speed controllers can cause overheating problems with some
motors but given that it's underwater with water bathing the rotor, I don't
imagine this would be a problem in this case.

Tim


Unless you want to boil the water. It is simpler to install a restriction washer to
the outlet spout I would think. If the diameter of the spout is, say, 10 mm full
bore. Then placing a washer with a hole size of 5 mm should greatly reduce the output
from the spout.

Is the fancy head removable ? If it is, then put a small rubber washer with a smaller
hole on top before you put the head back on.


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BigWallop wrote:

Unless you want to boil the water. It is simpler to install a
restriction washer to the outlet spout I would think. If the
diameter of the spout is, say, 10 mm full bore. Then placing a
washer with a hole size of 5 mm should greatly reduce the output from
the spout.

Is the fancy head removable ? If it is, then put a small rubber
washer with a smaller hole on top before you put the head back on.


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Rather than waste the pump's output by restricting it, run a "T" off the
output side and divert some of the flow to a home-made venturi (another
"T" with a restrictor on the long side and and an air intake tube into
the short side - you have to experiment a bit to get it right). This
will add valuable oxygenation to your pond and add a little more
movement to the water. Balance the flow between the two outputs with
ball valves on the hoses.
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Geoff Beale
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"Geoff Beale" wrote in message
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Rather than waste the pump's output by restricting it, run a "T" off the
output side and divert some of the flow to a home-made venturi (another
"T" with a restrictor on the long side and and an air intake tube into
the short side - you have to experiment a bit to get it right). This
will add valuable oxygenation to your pond and add a little more
movement to the water. Balance the flow between the two outputs with
ball valves on the hoses.



Nice idea, but I doubt he needs anymore oxygen being added to the pond if
there is a a reasonable amount of water movement at the surface. Indeed too
much disolved O2 is bad, as it reduces the waters ability to carry CO2 which
is needed for plant life. Often putting too much O2 in will simply cause
algee to thrive.

Scott

Scott Mills wrote:
Nice idea, but I doubt he needs anymore oxygen being added to the
pond if there is a a reasonable amount of water movement at the
surface. Indeed too much disolved O2 is bad, as it reduces the waters
ability to carry CO2 which is needed for plant life. Often putting
too much O2 in will simply cause algee to thrive.

Scott

The jet from a venturi is said to stabilize the level of oxygen and
prevent over-oxygenation. Adequate planting is the key to algae
control.
--
Geoff Beale
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Nice idea, but I doubt he needs anymore oxygen being added to the pond if
there is a a reasonable amount of water movement at the surface. Indeed too
much disolved O2 is bad, as it reduces the waters ability to carry CO2 which
is needed for plant life.

The way I remember it is that surface agitation enables CO2 to reach
equilibrium with the atmosphere which is a low value. Without agitation it
tends to supersaturate (assuming CO2 producers like fish) which is better for
submersed plants, not a factor for plants with leaves in the air.

Get a smaller pump it may pay for itself in electricity.

"Tim Downie" wrote in message
...
Is is possible to use a speed controller (like a light dimmer) with a
small
pond pump?

I have a Bermuda 3000 (3000l/hr) submersible pump that's really a bit more
powerful than I need. The motor has a solid rotor that appears to be made
of a ferrite like material.

I know that speed controllers can cause overheating problems with some
motors but given that it's underwater with water bathing the rotor, I
don't
imagine this would be a problem in this case.

Tim
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Remove the obvious to reply by email.

"Mickey" wrote in message
...
Get a smaller pump it may pay for itself in electricity.

"Tim Downie" wrote in message
...
Is is possible to use a speed controller (like a light dimmer) with a
small
pond pump?

I have a Bermuda 3000 (3000l/hr) submersible pump that's really a bit
more
powerful than I need. The motor has a solid rotor that appears to be
made
of a ferrite like material.

I know that speed controllers can cause overheating problems with some
motors but given that it's underwater with water bathing the rotor, I
don't
imagine this would be a problem in this case.


Quick calculation - 3000 l/hr pump takes 30 Watts - 1500l/hr pump takes 20
watts, so you save 10 watts switching to a smaller pump. 10 watts costs
about £5 assuming you run the pump 24*7, pumps cost £50, so you only save
money by changing the pump after 10 years!

Of course these numbers are almost certainly wrong!

I thought the best way to control the flow would be to bleed some water off
before the fountain/filter or whatever is taking too much water.

Andy

3000LPH pump = 49L
1500LPH pump = 49L

Using real numbers from Via Aqua pumps
3000 lph = 45 watts
1500 lph = 15 watts
30 watts x 24 hours = 720 watts perday
365 days x 720watts = 262800
262.8 kwatts x .5L (your pricing) = 131.4L
Pump pays for itself in 4.5 months @49L


How did you do your caculations?
10 watts per hour x 24 hours = 240 watts per day.
365 days x 240 = 87,600 watts
87.6 kwatts x .5L (your pricing) = 43.8l
Pump pays for itself in 13.2 months.

"Andy McKenzie" wrote in message
...
"Mickey" wrote in message
...
Get a smaller pump it may pay for itself in electricity.

"Tim Downie" wrote in message
...
Is is possible to use a speed controller (like a light dimmer) with a
small
pond pump?

I have a Bermuda 3000 (3000l/hr) submersible pump that's really a bit
more
powerful than I need. The motor has a solid rotor that appears to be
made
of a ferrite like material.

I know that speed controllers can cause overheating problems with some
motors but given that it's underwater with water bathing the rotor, I
don't
imagine this would be a problem in this case.


Quick calculation - 3000 l/hr pump takes 30 Watts - 1500l/hr pump takes 20
watts, so you save 10 watts switching to a smaller pump. 10 watts costs
about £5 assuming you run the pump 24*7, pumps cost £50, so you only save
money by changing the pump after 10 years!

Of course these numbers are almost certainly wrong!

I thought the best way to control the flow would be to bleed some water
off
before the fountain/filter or whatever is taking too much water.

Andy

You can restrict the outflow side of the pump, but not the intake or you
will burn out your pump prematurely - I use a "ball valve" to reduce the
waterflow on my submersible pump on the line to my filter
Gale :~)
"Tim Downie" wrote in message
...
Is is possible to use a speed controller (like a light dimmer) with a
small
pond pump?

I have a Bermuda 3000 (3000l/hr) submersible pump that's really a bit more
powerful than I need. The motor has a solid rotor that appears to be made
of a ferrite like material.

I know that speed controllers can cause overheating problems with some
motors but given that it's underwater with water bathing the rotor, I
don't
imagine this would be a problem in this case.

Tim
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Remove the obvious to reply by email.