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K30 will be along shorty with her Algae Primer.... but I'm quite sure
you'll fall under the patience policy. Though I would like to know what kind of plants and how many you have? You may not have near enough. Any pictures? Post them to a website so we can take a look, we love to see new ponds. ![]() See my ponds and filter design: http://users.owt.com/jjspond/ ~Keep 'em Wet!~ Tri-Cities WA Zone 7a To e-mail see website On 16 Aug 2004 22:35:13 -0500, Otto Pylot wrote: We just redid our landscaping which included a pond in the backyard. The pond itself is about 8'x10', and about 3' deep in the middle with a 6' waterfall which is about 41/2' tall. It's not a pre-formed pond but "custom" dug with a plastic liner. The skimmer has a filter (non-UV) and the waterfall has 3 filters including lava rocks. An automatic fill valve is in place as well. The pond is about 4 weeks old now and the problem is this: The water is really green and murky. We had an algae bloom at first which seems to have gone away and settled into a natural setting. Water flow is nice and constant, no standing water, and we have been putting in the Microbe-Lift as instructed on a weekly basis. Oxygen-producing plants have been added as well as other aquatic plants. However, the pond looks like something that the Creature From the Black Lagoon would live in. We've added mosquito fish and a couple of gold fish as well to balance it out in preparation of adding some koi. The pond does sit in direct sun all day. Is there anything that we can do to clarify the water or do we just have to wait and let nature run it's course? Are we just being impatient? I don't want to add chemicals if I can help it. |
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![]() ALGAE PRIMER ~ Nutrients for all forms of algae are sun, new water, fish waste, fertilized run off, rotting plants, blown in dirt. ~ New ponds and spring ponds need time for plants to get established, algae is quicker at getting going. The following is a collection of algae suggestions from many rec.ponders: ~ add plants, of any kind, in the pond. Especially underwater plants. Note - since all plants consume oxygen at night make sure your pond has a waterfall, fountain, spitter or bubbler to add oxygen during the hours of darkness. ~ or build a veggie filter* see below (one of the best and prettiest way to clear a pond) ~ Shade is good - provided by lily pads, floating plants or artificial shade for part of the day. ~ LOW fish stocking (good rule of thumb for recreational ponders is 20 gallons per goldfish, 100 per koi after starting with 1,000 gallons) and *not* overfeeding the fish. Too many fish and too much feeding is probably responsible for most pea soup water, followed closely by too much decaying plant matter, sludge and overall gunk in the water ~ clean up dead plant matter and screen for falling leaves in the fall. Clean out pond once a year. ~ building ponds with bottom drains and skimmers. ~ do not use algaecides, they only make lots of suddenly dead algae and that will feed the next algae bloom. ~ do not use products to dye to the water... ~ do not worry about algae that grows on things (substrate algae) this is good for a pond ~ gently remove string algae or read http://www.sfbakc.org/koienews/clayvsclay.html or some rec.ponders like String Algae Buster ~ water movement and occasional water changes of 10% ~ add a sludge consumer, concentrated bacteria. some rec.ponders use http://www.united-tech.com/m-aq4u-toc.html ~ Check your pH, too high, over 8.8, or too low, under 6.4, and most higher plant forms can't take up the nutrients. ~ UV lights work on suspended algae (green water) - does cost some $$ ~ adding a combination mechanical and biological filter to screen gunk, dead algae and convert fishy ammonia waste for fish health. ~ some rec.ponders like barley straw http://www.aquabotanic.com/barleyarticle.html ~ patience, more patience, remember to be patient and time ;-) ~ personally, in my experience, I can vouch for few fish, a plant filter and patience *Plant filter ~ running the pond's water through plants - as easy as floating water hyacinth in top of a stock tank and planting watercress in your waterfall (my method ;-) or Ingrid's post on plant filters: "The essence of a plant filter is a water proof container with the water from the pond being pumped in one end flowing thru the roots of various plants and flowing back into the pond at the other end. It needs to be long enough that solids settle to the bottom OR have filter material that will slow or hold the solids (and get rinsed out periodically). It needs plants of different kinds to maximize removal of all wastes. it needs sufficient amount of plants to remove in one day all the wastes produced by the fish load in one day. It needs plants with extensive roots and/or plants that get big so they used up more nutrients. It needs to be only 8-12" deep so it doesn't go anaerobic." or go he http://www.iheartmypond.com/Design/D...rs/default.asp kathy :-) algae primer http://hometown.aol.com/ka30p/myhomepage/garden.html |
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