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#1
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Hello folks:
I have a 55 gallon tetra/ram planted tank with a DIY CO2 generator and 2 65 Watt 6700K Coralife bulbs. Plant growth is ok, but some of the plants seem to be 'reaching' for the light. Also they've taken on a bit of a yellowish/light green hue, different then the nice dark green that they had when I bought them. Would increasing the light to 2 96 Watt bulbs be the thing to do? Water quality is good: pH 6.2, no nitrates, minimal nitrates and a lot of phosphate which I deal with by 3 weekly water changes. I also have Florite (sp?) gravel and use Seachem's Florish Excel and Trace. Thanks for any info. |
#2
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"Mr. Zee" wrote in message
.net... Hello folks: I have a 55 gallon tetra/ram planted tank with a DIY CO2 generator and 2 65 Watt 6700K Coralife bulbs. Plant growth is ok, but some of the plants seem to be 'reaching' for the light. Also they've taken on a bit of a yellowish/light green hue, different then the nice dark green that they had when I bought them. Would increasing the light to 2 96 Watt bulbs be the thing to do? Water quality is good: pH 6.2, no nitrates, minimal nitrates and a lot of phosphate which I deal with by 3 weekly water changes. I also have Florite (sp?) gravel and use Seachem's Florish Excel and Trace. Thanks for any info. You have enough light. The problem is Nitrates. You need to add some to your tank, your plants have serious munchies ![]() Potassium Nitrate) from the chemist/pharmacy and add about half a tspoon. -- Kind Regards Cameron |
#3
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Thanks very much... I'll give it a try...
"Happy'Cam'per" wrote in message ... "Mr. Zee" wrote in message .net... Hello folks: I have a 55 gallon tetra/ram planted tank with a DIY CO2 generator and 2 65 Watt 6700K Coralife bulbs. Plant growth is ok, but some of the plants seem to be 'reaching' for the light. Also they've taken on a bit of a yellowish/light green hue, different then the nice dark green that they had when I bought them. Would increasing the light to 2 96 Watt bulbs be the thing to do? Water quality is good: pH 6.2, no nitrates, minimal nitrates and a lot of phosphate which I deal with by 3 weekly water changes. I also have Florite (sp?) gravel and use Seachem's Florish Excel and Trace. Thanks for any info. You have enough light. The problem is Nitrates. You need to add some to your tank, your plants have serious munchies ![]() Potassium Nitrate) from the chemist/pharmacy and add about half a tspoon. -- Kind Regards Cameron |
#4
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Hi
before you start putting nitrates in the tank How tall is the tank How far are the lights from the surface what sort of reflectors are you using when did you last change the bulbs If you are going to feed ...I suggest you use the root tabs rather than put free nitrates in the water ---------------------------------------------- Posted with NewsLeecher v2.0 RC2 * Binary Usenet Leeching Made Easy * http://www.newsleecher.com/?usenet ---------------------------------------------- |
#5
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Thanks again...Will do...
"MrHappy" noemail@thankyou wrote in message ... Hi before you start putting nitrates in the tank How tall is the tank How far are the lights from the surface what sort of reflectors are you using when did you last change the bulbs If you are going to feed ...I suggest you use the root tabs rather than put free nitrates in the water ---------------------------------------------- Posted with NewsLeecher v2.0 RC2 * Binary Usenet Leeching Made Easy * http://www.newsleecher.com/?usenet ---------------------------------------------- |
#6
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MrHappy wrote:
Hi before you start putting nitrates in the tank How tall is the tank How far are the lights from the surface what sort of reflectors are you using when did you last change the bulbs If you are going to feed ...I suggest you use the root tabs rather than put free nitrates in the water ---------------------------------------------- Posted with NewsLeecher v2.0 RC2 * Binary Usenet Leeching Made Easy * http://www.newsleecher.com/?usenet ---------------------------------------------- Free nitrates vs root tabs really depends on the plant and substrate. KNO3 works VERY well for stem plants and floating plants. Swords and crypts prefer substrate fertilization. -- Elaine T __ http://eethomp.com/fish.html '__ rec.aquaria.* FAQ http://faq.thekrib.com |
#7
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On Thu, 09 Jun 2005 16:52:38 GMT, Elaine T
wrote: Free nitrates vs root tabs really depends on the plant and substrate. KNO3 works VERY well for stem plants and floating plants. Swords and crypts prefer substrate fertilization. I'm curious as to whether it is a good idea under any circumstances whatsoever to add nitrate to an aquarium stocked with fish. Nitrate is the stuff we're trying to dilute out of there by changing water. I would think it isn't a good idea to start adding the stuff on purpose. (?) -Derek |
#8
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![]() "Derek Benson" wrote in message ... On Thu, 09 Jun 2005 16:52:38 GMT, Elaine T wrote: Free nitrates vs root tabs really depends on the plant and substrate. KNO3 works VERY well for stem plants and floating plants. Swords and crypts prefer substrate fertilization. I'm curious as to whether it is a good idea under any circumstances whatsoever to add nitrate to an aquarium stocked with fish. Nitrate is the stuff we're trying to dilute out of there by changing water. I would think it isn't a good idea to start adding the stuff on purpose. (?) -Derek I suppose it depends on whether you want the benefits that plants can give to your tank or not. If they are deprived of nutrients they die (this is the gardener in me rather than the tank keeper). Plants well fed and growing have more beneficial impact on a tank than no plants - or dying plants that add to the decaying matter in the tank adding to the ammonia/nitrites... A well balanced planted tank will keep the nitrates down.....without the plants we need to do big water changes - for example my Malawi tank has about 4 very manky plants....the nitrate values are higher than the planted tanks where I add plant food to help the plants along - hence water changes are more of an impotant issue... Ultimately everything is a big balancing act in an artificial environment :-) Gill |
#9
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Free nitrate and really depends on plants and roots label matrix. Potassium nitrate is applied to dry plants and floating plants. Sword and Like the substrate of recess.
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#10
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Derek Benson wrote:
On Thu, 09 Jun 2005 16:52:38 GMT, Elaine T wrote: Free nitrates vs root tabs really depends on the plant and substrate. KNO3 works VERY well for stem plants and floating plants. Swords and crypts prefer substrate fertilization. I'm curious as to whether it is a good idea under any circumstances whatsoever to add nitrate to an aquarium stocked with fish. Nitrate is the stuff we're trying to dilute out of there by changing water. I would think it isn't a good idea to start adding the stuff on purpose. (?) -Derek It's funny - when I think of something odd to add to a tank, CO2 always comes to mind. You're turning off your airstone and adding what?!? ;-) It doesn't take much nitrate. Recommended nitrate levels in planted tanks are about 5-10 ppm depending on who you read. That's not enough to bother even discus but it can make a huge difference in plant health and growth. Rapidly growing plants can and will remove all the nitrogen of all forms out of the water in lightly stocked tanks and then starve. I have a 10 gallon heavily planted tank with only 4 guppies and 2 Otos in it at the moment. Nitrates go to zero a couple days after a water change with my 4 ppm tapwater unless I add more. If I don't add nitrates, the java moss goes brown, the rotala stalls, the baby's tears stop pearling, and sheets of blue green algae form over the substrate. I add about 8 ppm nitrates, siphon off the BGA, and all is well again. Another thing Mr. Zee should be adding is potash, if it isn't in his trace element mix. KN03 adds some, but ideally you want around twice as much potash as nitrogen. -- Elaine T __ http://eethomp.com/fish.html '__ rec.aquaria.* FAQ http://faq.thekrib.com |
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