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#1
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I have a fairly newly setup cichlid tank, and thinking that my filtration is
marginal. The tank is 125G nominal capacity but actual water volume is more like 100 gallons. Size is 6' long, 18" wide, and 20" high. The population consists of six 3.5" to 5.5" Lake Malawi cichlids, mostly peacocks, no mbuna. Also six 3.5" to 4.5" clown loaches and a 6-7" common plecostomus. There is an assortment of plants around the sides and back. Substrate is 3-5mm smooth quartz gravel. Large pieces of slate are stacked on the right and left sides two high with maybe 2" gaps. (The clown loaches favor the bottom story on the left.) Filtration is a single Fluval 404 drawing from a suction tube at the right side and low. The return is split three ways: two Marineland Pro30 near the middle of the tank and the Fluval return nozzle at the left side. The nozzle gets most of the flow, maybe 50% of the total 340GPH. This filter is rated for 100 gallons maximum, and at this rate the filter could turn over the tank around 3 times per hour. I assume that the biowheels add significant extra biological capacity. Marineland rates them for 30 gallons each. I don't think there is really enough flow in the tank to effectively draw debris from one side of the tank to the other and into the filter inlet. Especially with the rockwork, I don't know if the filter is going to create any meaningful flow under and between the slates. I recently took apart much of the rockwork to do a thorough gravel vacuuming and found several pockets of junk. It was a lot of work and I wouldn't want to have to do this for every gravel vacuuming. My thinking is to add additional circulation or filtration, but am unsure how the fish would like that or how effective it might be. The tank is too close to the wall to use a hang-on overflow or behind the tank filter of any type. Any comments or suggestions ? George |
#2
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Not necessarily a filter, but for added water flow/current you could add a
power head or two. Decently placed, the water flow provided by the power head can assist in preventing waste from settling on the substrate and direct it to the general area of your intakes. There are a wide variety of power heads out there, the one I use has a measured flow of 295gph. Lots of options for filters. Aquaclear 110 power filters are rated at 500gph (probably somewhat reduced when loaded with media), and definately provide some movement as well. I've got two of those on my 125g in addition to an XP3 canister and a generic 330gph HOB. kay-bee "George Pontis" wrote in message t... I have a fairly newly setup cichlid tank, and thinking that my filtration is marginal. The tank is 125G nominal capacity but actual water volume is more like 100 gallons. Size is 6' long, 18" wide, and 20" high. The population consists of six 3.5" to 5.5" Lake Malawi cichlids, mostly peacocks, no mbuna. Also six 3.5" to 4.5" clown loaches and a 6-7" common plecostomus. There is an assortment of plants around the sides and back. Substrate is 3-5mm smooth quartz gravel. Large pieces of slate are stacked on the right and left sides two high with maybe 2" gaps. (The clown loaches favor the bottom story on the left.) Filtration is a single Fluval 404 drawing from a suction tube at the right side and low. The return is split three ways: two Marineland Pro30 near the middle of the tank and the Fluval return nozzle at the left side. The nozzle gets most of the flow, maybe 50% of the total 340GPH. This filter is rated for 100 gallons maximum, and at this rate the filter could turn over the tank around 3 times per hour. I assume that the biowheels add significant extra biological capacity. Marineland rates them for 30 gallons each. I don't think there is really enough flow in the tank to effectively draw debris from one side of the tank to the other and into the filter inlet. Especially with the rockwork, I don't know if the filter is going to create any meaningful flow under and between the slates. I recently took apart much of the rockwork to do a thorough gravel vacuuming and found several pockets of junk. It was a lot of work and I wouldn't want to have to do this for every gravel vacuuming. My thinking is to add additional circulation or filtration, but am unsure how the fish would like that or how effective it might be. The tank is too close to the wall to use a hang-on overflow or behind the tank filter of any type. Any comments or suggestions ? George |
#3
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Sorry, the AC110s won't work for you (I overlooked the part about you not
having any room for a hang-on). But a power head will most definately work. My fish don't mind the circulation of the power head. You have lots of options on where you can position them and place them where they're most effective. kay-bee "George Pontis" wrote in message t... My thinking is to add additional circulation or filtration, but am unsure how the fish would like that or how effective it might be. The tank is too close to the wall to use a hang-on overflow or behind the tank filter of any type. Any comments or suggestions ? George |
#4
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![]() "George Pontis" wrote in message t... I have a fairly newly setup cichlid tank, and thinking that my filtration is marginal. Twice now I've bought junky filters and regretted it. Now 3 out of my 4 tanks have Eheim canisters. They're easy to clean, easy to set up, and are pretty much silent. For that tank, the Pro II 2028, rated for 159 gallons, would be nice. Or 2128 with a built in heater. I put a smaller Pro I on my newest tank, with the Eheim prefilter, which sits on the bottom. I found a nice chunk of bogwood which hides it fairly well. They're not cheap, ($159 for the small one (rated 66 gal) ... too lazy to look up the model #), but well worth it IMO. The local place where I buy most of my goodies has the 2028 on sale right now for $199. I don't want it to look like I'm promoting them... I can post the link to the place here, or email it... whichever. Filter pads are included, but not the biological filter media or the mechanical pasta-lookin' filter media. That stuff isn't very cheap either. I'm not familiar with Fluval... If you get another canister, maybe stack 2 spraybars at one end of the tank and put both intakes on the other end, or one half way, and the other on the end. I really don't think you can have too much filtration. Good luck with whichever way you approach it. Gary |
#5
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#6
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![]() "George Pontis" wrote in message t... OK, it sounds like you and Kay-Bee are recommending more circulation without worrying about it being excessive for these fish. That makes sense since a doubling would only boost it up to 6 turns per hour. I think that I could incorporate another canister easily enough. The Fluval 404, I bought it new for only $99 and that included media. I have a smaller Eheim 2224 (Pro 1) that is a beautiful piece of gear and nearly silent, but the 404 is good enough and so much less expensive. With that large of a tank, 2 spraybars at one end wouldn't cause it to be too turbid, I wouldn't think. Not if the Fluval doesn't out-pump the 2128 I have on my 72 gallon by much. Sounds like a good plan going with another Fluval. Gary |
#7
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Twice now I've bought abominable filters and regretted it. Now 3 out of my 4 tanks accept Eheim canisters. They're simple to clean, simple to set up, and are pretty abundant silent. For that tank, the Pro II 2028, rated for 159 gallons, would be nice.
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#8
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I have a 75 gallon African tank using a Fluval 404 and a dual biowheel
powered with a powerhead. There is more than enough filtration (0 nitirites). Nitrate build up is controled by partial water changes. If you want more circulation then I agree with the powerhead. I ran one attached to a sponge filter and the sponge gathered more debris than the Fluval. Adding another 404 would be, in my opinion, overkill. "George Pontis" wrote in message t... I have a fairly newly setup cichlid tank, and thinking that my filtration is marginal. The tank is 125G nominal capacity but actual water volume is more like 100 gallons. Size is 6' long, 18" wide, and 20" high. The population consists of six 3.5" to 5.5" Lake Malawi cichlids, mostly peacocks, no mbuna. Also six 3.5" to 4.5" clown loaches and a 6-7" common plecostomus. There is an assortment of plants around the sides and back. Substrate is 3-5mm smooth quartz gravel. Large pieces of slate are stacked on the right and left sides two high with maybe 2" gaps. (The clown loaches favor the bottom story on the left.) Filtration is a single Fluval 404 drawing from a suction tube at the right side and low. The return is split three ways: two Marineland Pro30 near the middle of the tank and the Fluval return nozzle at the left side. The nozzle gets most of the flow, maybe 50% of the total 340GPH. This filter is rated for 100 gallons maximum, and at this rate the filter could turn over the tank around 3 times per hour. I assume that the biowheels add significant extra biological capacity. Marineland rates them for 30 gallons each. I don't think there is really enough flow in the tank to effectively draw debris from one side of the tank to the other and into the filter inlet. Especially with the rockwork, I don't know if the filter is going to create any meaningful flow under and between the slates. I recently took apart much of the rockwork to do a thorough gravel vacuuming and found several pockets of junk. It was a lot of work and I wouldn't want to have to do this for every gravel vacuuming. My thinking is to add additional circulation or filtration, but am unsure how the fish would like that or how effective it might be. The tank is too close to the wall to use a hang-on overflow or behind the tank filter of any type. Any comments or suggestions ? George |
#9
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