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Well I did the water change today, about 30%. What a mess. I thought I'd
ask some "experienced" people's advice. I have questions like: Am I the only one using store bought water?! What do you mix your new water in? Do you sit there and stir or have extra powerheads doing the trick or is there something I haven't thought of? What's the best way to take the water from the container on the ground up to the aquarium? Here's a couple of things I didn't think about before I started. Thank goodness there's nothing but snails and hermits right now. 1) I have Emperor 400's, when the water is too low they can't pull in the water to circulate and aerate. This leads to one deadwater tank. I thought maybe I should throw in air stones... is that what you guys do? Is stones enough or do I need to have some filtration still working? 2) When I'm putting water back in (I lifted those 5 gallon water jugs) it sure seemed like the flow from pouring might a bit rough on the rocks and critters below once I get them. Yes I can sit there much longer and only let the heavy jug slowly pour out, but there's gotta be another way. Can you siphon uphill as easily? Anyway, I've read a couple of things on the web but I don't have a sump, refugium or a RO/DI connected nearby so I didn't get a lot of help. And about those RO/DI's, do they have one that doesn't have to be plugged into my plumbing? (small house, no basements in Texas and a decorator wife wouldn't allow it). I'd like one that pulled water from one container into another. So what is your smooth water change technique? Thanks for your time and advice, Bryan www.geocities.com/bryg30/ for setup details |
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I buy store water because the amount I need compared to the cost of
RO/Di was to much. It may not be in your case. I got my first one for 130$ then upgraded after I moved and started using a larger sump. www.airwaterice.com. Yes this has to be hooked up to the pluming. There is a sadle tap for the main water and a drain valve for the RO rejection. Buy the mini reef keeper model with a storage tank and always, always fill your bottle up in the sink NOT on the FLOOR. It trickles when you are watching it but a whole lot more seems to come out when you are not watching it. Dont worry about the time you are changing your water for circulation.Unless you are taking hours..bad.. than there is nothing to worry about. Use on the the squeeze bulb siphons for the uphill battle. I used chairs to make the siphoned water move faster over front of the tank. http://www.petdiscounters.com/produc...cat=799&page=1 Then I got smart. I have a 35 gallon rubbermaid in the garage. I dump all of my water in the tub, remixed and heated. Then I used a powerhead with a line right into the tank.Works much fatser and no dripping on the carpet. When you do this make sure you hold the line above your head to make sure no stagnant water stays in the tube or gushes out when puttin it away. As always watch out for the reverse siphon. NEVER leave a tube from you tank to anything unless you are doing something with it. Make it like painting..dont do anything other than this once you get started. BTW i just visited your site....No sump, No protien skimmer, and 1 power head. If you really want to have corals you need to read up on the advatanges of circulation, aireation, and skimming. Also chemicals and tesing are essential to starting a tank. This is a great forum for questions but readup on the essentials before thowing money at your tank. This can be a rewarding hobby and it can also be a depressing one as well. Patrick |
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thanks Sandbag, FYI, I have on the site that I do plan on a 2nd powerhead,
will get it later this week. I know my lack of the sump and skimming is rather controversial but I've done some reading and have personally seen a few big, beautiful and thriving tanks without them and I'm out to test it on my own. I'm keeping close watch with test kits and do use a few chemicals as noted originally. I'll be posting here how things proceed. So far the hermits and snails are doing ok and seem happy. You're right, before I ever toss more money, I do a lot of research. Take care, Bryan "Sandbag" wrote in message oups.com... I buy store water because the amount I need compared to the cost of RO/Di was to much. It may not be in your case. I got my first one for 130$ then upgraded after I moved and started using a larger sump. www.airwaterice.com. Yes this has to be hooked up to the pluming. There is a sadle tap for the main water and a drain valve for the RO rejection. Buy the mini reef keeper model with a storage tank and always, always fill your bottle up in the sink NOT on the FLOOR. It trickles when you are watching it but a whole lot more seems to come out when you are not watching it. Dont worry about the time you are changing your water for circulation.Unless you are taking hours..bad.. than there is nothing to worry about. Use on the the squeeze bulb siphons for the uphill battle. I used chairs to make the siphoned water move faster over front of the tank. http://www.petdiscounters.com/produc...cat=799&page=1 Then I got smart. I have a 35 gallon rubbermaid in the garage. I dump all of my water in the tub, remixed and heated. Then I used a powerhead with a line right into the tank.Works much fatser and no dripping on the carpet. When you do this make sure you hold the line above your head to make sure no stagnant water stays in the tube or gushes out when puttin it away. As always watch out for the reverse siphon. NEVER leave a tube from you tank to anything unless you are doing something with it. Make it like painting..dont do anything other than this once you get started. BTW i just visited your site....No sump, No protien skimmer, and 1 power head. If you really want to have corals you need to read up on the advatanges of circulation, aireation, and skimming. Also chemicals and tesing are essential to starting a tank. This is a great forum for questions but readup on the essentials before thowing money at your tank. This can be a rewarding hobby and it can also be a depressing one as well. Patrick |
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On Mon, 03 Jul 2006 05:53:53 GMT, "Bryan" wrote:
You're right, before I ever toss more money, I do a lot of research. Hmm, picking up on that line, and I mean this in the kindest possible way, but I'm confused why your research lead you to buy filters for this tank. You could have saved the money. Was your research perhaps limited to commerial sources of information, which can be biased? You don't need those Emperor things for a reef and they may be harmful. Your rock will do the job. Steve |
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Bryan wrote:
Am I the only one using store bought water?! No. I frequently buy bottled spring water. What do you mix your new water in? A 32 gallon plastic trash can. I don't use the can for anything else. Do you sit there and stir or have extra powerheads doing the trick or is there something I haven't thought of? I use an old Hagen powerhead. I just drop it in and let it lie on the bottom. I normally run this for three days. What's the best way to take the water from the container on the ground up to the aquarium? I shut the powerhead off, hook it up to a piece of tubing, drop it back into the can, run the other end of the tubing into my tank, and cut the powerhead back on. The tubing must closely fit the outlet of the powerhead. You also have to rig up something to keep the other end in the tank; I place part of my glass tank cover on top of the tube. When the water in the can has been pumped into the tank, I pull the plug on the powerhead. The tube will now act as a siphon, so pull it out of the tank as soon as the powerhead is off. You will still have a gallon or two in the can, but you can pick the can up and pour that amount into the tank. One other thing. I use a python to siphon water out of the tank. I mix up 25 gallons at a time, so I have placed one of those stick-on thermometers on the tank at the 25 gallon low level. It's useless as a thermometer, but it shows me how much water to drain. 1) I have Emperor 400's, when the water is too low they can't pull in the water to circulate and aerate. This leads to one deadwater tank. I thought maybe I should throw in air stones... is that what you guys do? Is stones enough or do I need to have some filtration still working? Airstones are pretty much useless for anything except creating salt spray for you to clean up. The best thing is simply to circulate the water so that new water is always being brought to the surface of the tank. Filters that pull from near the bottom and discharge at the surface are great for this. Wavemakers are also good. Even a simple powerhead can help. George Patterson Coffee is only a way of stealing time that should by rights belong to your slightly older self. |
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George, thanks for the advice and tips. Sounds like you got the water
change to a perfect process. I'll get another powerhead and let it do the work next time. (My wife is only being tolerant of the mess for now, I better get it smoother and faster soon.) ![]() Regards, Bryan "George Patterson" wrote in message news:7yRpg.779$iW2.693@trnddc03... Bryan wrote: Am I the only one using store bought water?! No. I frequently buy bottled spring water. What do you mix your new water in? A 32 gallon plastic trash can. I don't use the can for anything else. Do you sit there and stir or have extra powerheads doing the trick or is there something I haven't thought of? I use an old Hagen powerhead. I just drop it in and let it lie on the bottom. I normally run this for three days. What's the best way to take the water from the container on the ground up to the aquarium? I shut the powerhead off, hook it up to a piece of tubing, drop it back into the can, run the other end of the tubing into my tank, and cut the powerhead back on. The tubing must closely fit the outlet of the powerhead. You also have to rig up something to keep the other end in the tank; I place part of my glass tank cover on top of the tube. When the water in the can has been pumped into the tank, I pull the plug on the powerhead. The tube will now act as a siphon, so pull it out of the tank as soon as the powerhead is off. You will still have a gallon or two in the can, but you can pick the can up and pour that amount into the tank. One other thing. I use a python to siphon water out of the tank. I mix up 25 gallons at a time, so I have placed one of those stick-on thermometers on the tank at the 25 gallon low level. It's useless as a thermometer, but it shows me how much water to drain. 1) I have Emperor 400's, when the water is too low they can't pull in the water to circulate and aerate. This leads to one deadwater tank. I thought maybe I should throw in air stones... is that what you guys do? Is stones enough or do I need to have some filtration still working? Airstones are pretty much useless for anything except creating salt spray for you to clean up. The best thing is simply to circulate the water so that new water is always being brought to the surface of the tank. Filters that pull from near the bottom and discharge at the surface are great for this. Wavemakers are also good. Even a simple powerhead can help. George Patterson Coffee is only a way of stealing time that should by rights belong to your slightly older self. |
#7
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We have a RO/DI system, which really wasn't that expensive. We found
an old 25-gallon plastic barrel and washed it out exceptionally well, and use this as a reservoir. The lid had to be cut out larger to accomodate dropping in a powerhead, but we mix salt in the drum also and let the powerhead run for an hour or so. Then we use the same powerhead to uplift the water into a 5-gallon bucket. If we had a longer piece of the appropriate size tubing, we'd just use that, and pump directly into the tank system. When we remove water for replacement, we take the powerhead from the barrel and put it in the sump, then run a piece of tubing across the counter into the kitchen sink. Have to use a twist-tie to attach the "wild end" to the faucet if we don't want to wash the kitchen floor the hard way. ![]() And we never add anything directly to the tank. For small volumes (supplements, etc) we pour into the overflows; for larger volumes, we pour or pump into the sump. I live in fear of dire warnings from publications and LFS "experts" (?) about shocking the tank with too-quick changes, so we try to make sure whatever goes into the system hits the tank last. Look into the RO/DI units. We live in an apartment, and it was neither too expensive nor too challenging to install. Plus, it gets used for drinking water as well, so it's turned out to be a bargain for us. Good luck. On Sun, 02 Jul 2006 05:06:30 GMT, "Bryan" wrote: Well I did the water change today, about 30%. What a mess. I thought I'd ask some "experienced" people's advice. I have questions like: Am I the only one using store bought water?! What do you mix your new water in? Do you sit there and stir or have extra powerheads doing the trick or is there something I haven't thought of? What's the best way to take the water from the container on the ground up to the aquarium? Here's a couple of things I didn't think about before I started. Thank goodness there's nothing but snails and hermits right now. 1) I have Emperor 400's, when the water is too low they can't pull in the water to circulate and aerate. This leads to one deadwater tank. I thought maybe I should throw in air stones... is that what you guys do? Is stones enough or do I need to have some filtration still working? 2) When I'm putting water back in (I lifted those 5 gallon water jugs) it sure seemed like the flow from pouring might a bit rough on the rocks and critters below once I get them. Yes I can sit there much longer and only let the heavy jug slowly pour out, but there's gotta be another way. Can you siphon uphill as easily? Anyway, I've read a couple of things on the web but I don't have a sump, refugium or a RO/DI connected nearby so I didn't get a lot of help. And about those RO/DI's, do they have one that doesn't have to be plugged into my plumbing? (small house, no basements in Texas and a decorator wife wouldn't allow it). I'd like one that pulled water from one container into another. So what is your smooth water change technique? Thanks for your time and advice, Bryan www.geocities.com/bryg30/ for setup details =^..^= .... the problem with people these days is that they've forgotten we're really just animals. |
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Exotec,
Hey awesome summary. Which inexpensive RO/DI did you get? Maybe you can tell me, why would I care about a 100 gpd versus a 35 gpd if I'm only doing water changes every week or two? I can just turn it on sooner before I start working. Also, if the water just goes in a bucket how do you collect it for drinking? I'm not necessarily interested in the drinking aspect but hey, if it's there and it tastes good, why not? Only thing on my mind now after reading the three sets of help I've gotten is how to turn the powerhead off in time when the water gets low in the bucket or the aquarium is too full. A few seconds before pulling the plug can mean wet carpet or a powerhead running in dry air. Then you have to run up to the cord to stop the "siphon" effect. My plug isn't easy to quickly jump to. Maybe I'll get a Clapper. haha http://www.youcansave.com/clap.asp. Bryan "exotec" wrote in message ... We have a RO/DI system, which really wasn't that expensive. We found an old 25-gallon plastic barrel and washed it out exceptionally well, and use this as a reservoir. The lid had to be cut out larger to accomodate dropping in a powerhead, but we mix salt in the drum also and let the powerhead run for an hour or so. Then we use the same powerhead to uplift the water into a 5-gallon bucket. If we had a longer piece of the appropriate size tubing, we'd just use that, and pump directly into the tank system. When we remove water for replacement, we take the powerhead from the barrel and put it in the sump, then run a piece of tubing across the counter into the kitchen sink. Have to use a twist-tie to attach the "wild end" to the faucet if we don't want to wash the kitchen floor the hard way. ![]() And we never add anything directly to the tank. For small volumes (supplements, etc) we pour into the overflows; for larger volumes, we pour or pump into the sump. I live in fear of dire warnings from publications and LFS "experts" (?) about shocking the tank with too-quick changes, so we try to make sure whatever goes into the system hits the tank last. Look into the RO/DI units. We live in an apartment, and it was neither too expensive nor too challenging to install. Plus, it gets used for drinking water as well, so it's turned out to be a bargain for us. Good luck. On Sun, 02 Jul 2006 05:06:30 GMT, "Bryan" wrote: Well I did the water change today, about 30%. What a mess. I thought I'd ask some "experienced" people's advice. I have questions like: Am I the only one using store bought water?! What do you mix your new water in? Do you sit there and stir or have extra powerheads doing the trick or is there something I haven't thought of? What's the best way to take the water from the container on the ground up to the aquarium? Here's a couple of things I didn't think about before I started. Thank goodness there's nothing but snails and hermits right now. 1) I have Emperor 400's, when the water is too low they can't pull in the water to circulate and aerate. This leads to one deadwater tank. I thought maybe I should throw in air stones... is that what you guys do? Is stones enough or do I need to have some filtration still working? 2) When I'm putting water back in (I lifted those 5 gallon water jugs) it sure seemed like the flow from pouring might a bit rough on the rocks and critters below once I get them. Yes I can sit there much longer and only let the heavy jug slowly pour out, but there's gotta be another way. Can you siphon uphill as easily? Anyway, I've read a couple of things on the web but I don't have a sump, refugium or a RO/DI connected nearby so I didn't get a lot of help. And about those RO/DI's, do they have one that doesn't have to be plugged into my plumbing? (small house, no basements in Texas and a decorator wife wouldn't allow it). I'd like one that pulled water from one container into another. So what is your smooth water change technique? Thanks for your time and advice, Bryan www.geocities.com/bryg30/ for setup details =^..^= ... the problem with people these days is that they've forgotten we're really just animals. |
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Bryan wrote:
Only thing on my mind now after reading the three sets of help I've gotten is how to turn the powerhead off in time when the water gets low in the bucket or the aquarium is too full. It takes my powerhead less than five minutes to pump the water into my tank. I usually have a few tank maintenance items to keep me happy while it's running, but I don't go anywhere. If I did. the powerhead would sit there in the gallon or two of water left in the can and churn it up. Then you have to run up to the cord to stop the "siphon" effect. I set my can up about three feet from the tank. Everything is within easy reach. George Patterson Coffee is only a way of stealing time that should by rights belong to your slightly older self. |
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On Mon, 03 Jul 2006 06:06:18 GMT, "Bryan" wrote:
Exotec, Hey awesome summary. Which inexpensive RO/DI did you get? Well, I'm kind of embarrassed -for some reason- to admit I'm an eBay addict, and we get all kinds of stuff there for our various hobbies. The water system came from a company called Aqua Safe, I think out of Canada. The total outlay was somewhere in the vicinity of $100, which seems like a pretty good bargain in this trade. If you do a search on "aquasafe", you should come up with a string of his products. I believe he's a regular seller there. In lieu of that (if he doesn't have anything listed at the moment), I think I could dig up his regular email address, given a little time for research. Maybe you can tell me, why would I care about a 100 gpd versus a 35 gpd if I'm only doing water changes every week or two? I can just turn it on sooner before I start working. Also, if the water just goes in a bucket how do you collect it for drinking? I'm not necessarily interested in the drinking aspect but hey, if it's there and it tastes good, why not? The system we got actually came with a little holding tank, only about 2 gallons or so, and a tap - the kind you would see on a bar sink. We hadn't intended to use the tap, but found space to install it and now find we use it a lot. Only thing on my mind now after reading the three sets of help I've gotten is how to turn the powerhead off in time when the water gets low in the bucket or the aquarium is too full. A few seconds before pulling the plug can mean wet carpet or a powerhead running in dry air. Then you have to run up to the cord to stop the "siphon" effect. My plug isn't easy to quickly jump to. Those are definite "issues"! We used to use the 5-gallon water bottles from the grocery, but had many, many "spills" from forgetting to turn the thing off and flooding the closet all the way down the hall. Then we bought a little light and put it in there, so when we turned the water on we also turned the light on to try to help us remember to turn it off again. That also didn't work. So when the other fish geek here found the barrel, he also managed to get a little float valve, and now we have no more overflows. ![]() I think the powerhead may be one of the sort that can run a little air briefly. I'm thinking this is not good for it, no matter what ... but so far it hasn't choked up its parts on us, so I guess it's okay. It does run pretty fast. Doesn't take any time at all to pump out the volume we need for a water change. I suppose if it was a matter of completely filling a tank that might be a problem ... but the 10 or 20 gallons we use at a time isn't. The time we have to be careful is in pumping the exchange water *out* of the tank. But I just have the extension tie-wrapped to the leg of the aquarium stand, and when I hear the pump start to suck air, I just give its cord a yank. Since the business end of that operation is in the sink, siphon doesn't apply. In the other direction, pumping new water in, well, since we're pumping into the sump and not the tank, it can only siphon what it's already put in. That can be annoying, but it isn't a disaster. Besides, as stated, it takes virtually no time to put the new water in. You can stand there and watch it for that long! Maybe I'll get a Clapper. haha http://www.youcansave.com/clap.asp. Bryan "exotec" wrote in message .. . We have a RO/DI system, which really wasn't that expensive. We found an old 25-gallon plastic barrel and washed it out exceptionally well, and use this as a reservoir. The lid had to be cut out larger to accomodate dropping in a powerhead, but we mix salt in the drum also and let the powerhead run for an hour or so. Then we use the same powerhead to uplift the water into a 5-gallon bucket. If we had a longer piece of the appropriate size tubing, we'd just use that, and pump directly into the tank system. When we remove water for replacement, we take the powerhead from the barrel and put it in the sump, then run a piece of tubing across the counter into the kitchen sink. Have to use a twist-tie to attach the "wild end" to the faucet if we don't want to wash the kitchen floor the hard way. ![]() And we never add anything directly to the tank. For small volumes (supplements, etc) we pour into the overflows; for larger volumes, we pour or pump into the sump. I live in fear of dire warnings from publications and LFS "experts" (?) about shocking the tank with too-quick changes, so we try to make sure whatever goes into the system hits the tank last. Look into the RO/DI units. We live in an apartment, and it was neither too expensive nor too challenging to install. Plus, it gets used for drinking water as well, so it's turned out to be a bargain for us. Good luck. On Sun, 02 Jul 2006 05:06:30 GMT, "Bryan" wrote: Well I did the water change today, about 30%. What a mess. I thought I'd ask some "experienced" people's advice. I have questions like: Am I the only one using store bought water?! What do you mix your new water in? Do you sit there and stir or have extra powerheads doing the trick or is there something I haven't thought of? What's the best way to take the water from the container on the ground up to the aquarium? Here's a couple of things I didn't think about before I started. Thank goodness there's nothing but snails and hermits right now. 1) I have Emperor 400's, when the water is too low they can't pull in the water to circulate and aerate. This leads to one deadwater tank. I thought maybe I should throw in air stones... is that what you guys do? Is stones enough or do I need to have some filtration still working? 2) When I'm putting water back in (I lifted those 5 gallon water jugs) it sure seemed like the flow from pouring might a bit rough on the rocks and critters below once I get them. Yes I can sit there much longer and only let the heavy jug slowly pour out, but there's gotta be another way. Can you siphon uphill as easily? Anyway, I've read a couple of things on the web but I don't have a sump, refugium or a RO/DI connected nearby so I didn't get a lot of help. And about those RO/DI's, do they have one that doesn't have to be plugged into my plumbing? (small house, no basements in Texas and a decorator wife wouldn't allow it). I'd like one that pulled water from one container into another. So what is your smooth water change technique? Thanks for your time and advice, Bryan www.geocities.com/bryg30/ for setup details =^..^= ... the problem with people these days is that they've forgotten we're really just animals. =^..^= .... the problem with people these days is that they've forgotten we're really just animals. |
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