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#1
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I have a 200 G fish with live rock fr about 10 months now and want to shift
completely to a reef setup. All the required equipment is there. Lights, Eheim Wet/Dry, Eheim canister, powerheads, Uv, Skimmer, Chiller etc. Problem is the nitrates keep increasing till I water chnage. Is there any way to keep nitrates stable at the bare minimum? Do i need to add a denitrifying filter? Add Live rocks? Add Live Sand? What shld i basically do to make sure the nitrates dont rise? Ive been reading and I actually even read somewhere that a wet/dry will even enhance nitrate production! So do I dump it ? and substitute with what? Looking fr a simple and longterm solution and I know the best advice will be here! Thanks, Ajay |
#2
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![]() "Ajay Malkani" wrote in message news:1110390956.a10dcf7a9c97f9976170e20735a6dfa5@t eranews... I have a 200 G fish with live rock fr about 10 months now and want to shift completely to a reef setup. All the required equipment is there. Lights, Eheim Wet/Dry, Eheim canister, powerheads, Uv, Skimmer, Chiller etc. Problem is the nitrates keep increasing till I water chnage. Is there any way to keep nitrates stable at the bare minimum? Do i need to add a denitrifying filter? No. Although I think a refugium (vegetable filter) would be nice. Add Live rocks? Yes, if you are under the 1-2 pounds per gallon mark. Add Live Sand? A deep sand bed (DSB) will increase denitrification. at least 3" is the rule, but more can be better. What shld i basically do to make sure the nitrates dont rise? Ive been reading and I actually even read somewhere that a wet/dry will even enhance nitrate production! So do I dump it ? Yes I would get rid of the wet/dry and substitute with what? Live rock, live sand. Looking fr a simple and longterm solution and I know the best advice will be here! Thanks, Ajay |
#3
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![]() "Ajay Malkani" wrote in message news:1110390956.a10dcf7a9c97f9976170e20735a6dfa5@t eranews... I have a 200 G fish with live rock fr about 10 months now and want to shift completely to a reef setup. All the required equipment is there. Lights, Eheim Wet/Dry, Eheim canister, powerheads, Uv, Skimmer, Chiller etc. Problem is the nitrates keep increasing till I water chnage. Is there any way to keep nitrates stable at the bare minimum? Do i need to add a denitrifying filter? Add Live rocks? Add Live Sand? What shld i basically do to make sure the nitrates dont rise? Ive been reading and I actually even read somewhere that a wet/dry will even enhance nitrate production! So do I dump it ? and substitute with what? Looking fr a simple and longterm solution and I know the best advice will be here! Thanks, Ajay As Chris already stated.... I would assumed the Wet/Dry maybe the cause of your nitrate. Adding DSB / LR might reduce your nitrate. You can also try adding microalgae or refugium to uptake nitrate. I would suggest to slowly remove the Wet/Dry to see if nitrate will be reduce as other filteration like LR / DSB can take over the job of Wet/Dry. CapFusion,... |
#4
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![]() "Ajay Malkani" wrote in message news:1110390956.a10dcf7a9c97f9976170e20735a6dfa5@t eranews... I have a 200 G fish with live rock fr about 10 months now and want to shift completely to a reef setup. All the required equipment is there. Lights, Eheim Wet/Dry, Eheim canister, powerheads, Uv, Skimmer, Chiller etc. Problem is the nitrates keep increasing till I water chnage. Is there any way to keep nitrates stable at the bare minimum? Do i need to add a denitrifying filter? Add Live rocks? Add Live Sand? What shld i basically do to make sure the nitrates dont rise? Ive been reading and I actually even read somewhere that a wet/dry will even enhance nitrate production! So do I dump it ? and substitute with what? Looking fr a simple and longterm solution and I know the best advice will be here! Thanks, Ajay Ajay My experience is this: I have a 6*2*2 tank and a large sump / refugium -- total volume about 900 litres (240 US gallons). The tank has been running for about 10 months, and has the following: 10-12 fish (nothing really large) See http://community.webshots.com/album/149890982jXnxRs for some old pictures About 180 lbs of live rock About 25 corals, mostly soft and LPS Water circulation is by 2 Rio pumps (20 HF and 17 HF) A Berlin HO skimmer A very light cover of sand in the display tank and about 3 inches of sand in the refugium A mix of algaes and "critters" in the refugium Usually a bag of activated carbon hanging in the sump Sometimes I use some Phosban A UV steriliser (used only occasionally) Chiller -- water temp 25 - 26 deg C Fish are fed every other day Corals are not fed The biosystem is fed with 1 teaspoon of sugar once per week (when I started doing this, there seemed to be a step change down in nitrate levels from around 5 ppm to around 2 ppm) Additives are Seachem Reef Advantage Calcium and Reef Builder Nitrates are virtually undetectable - but it took a long time (months) to get there. I used to do regular water changes, but now I maybe change 5% every two months or so (and probably don't need to do that) Our water (Sydney Australia) is quite good, so I have stopped (with no problems) using RO for top off water and just use tap water with a big dose of Prime. Hope the above is helpful. Phil |
#5
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Hi Ajay,
Your problem is you are using a filtration system that is suited to fresh water but unsuitable for salt water. First of you must use RO/DI or distilled water NOT tap water, get about 250 to 300 lbs of live rock, then a deep sand bed, I would add a sump/fug. under your tank about 50 gall or more ( the more water you have in the system the more stable it will be )and put the deep sand bed in the fug, about 6" or more of live sand then you can have about 2 or 3" in the display tank, the deep sand bed can be made up of 75% aragonite play sand and 25% live sand, It will soon all be live, When this system has cycled and matured ( can take a few months ) you should have no more water problems and little if any need for water changes. You do need a good skimmer and power heads, your water flow rate needs to be about 4000galls per hour calculated by adding the flow rates of all the pumps either circulating water from your sump to tank to sump plus all power heads plus flow through the skimmer if it returns to the tank, the chiller is optional but you need to maintain your water temp. at 27C to 29C as most natural reef ( some run quite a bit higher than this ) All that other gear I would sell to finance a proper system including the U/V they do more harm than good. regards, unclenorm. P.S. the system I have described I have been running for many years with no problems what so ever. Ajay Malkani wrote: I have a 200 G fish with live rock fr about 10 months now and want to shift completely to a reef setup. All the required equipment is there. Lights, Eheim Wet/Dry, Eheim canister, powerheads, Uv, Skimmer, Chiller etc. Problem is the nitrates keep increasing till I water chnage. Is there any way to keep nitrates stable at the bare minimum? Do i need to add a denitrifying filter? Add Live rocks? Add Live Sand? What shld i basically do to make sure the nitrates dont rise? Ive been reading and I actually even read somewhere that a wet/dry will even enhance nitrate production! So do I dump it ? and substitute with what? Looking fr a simple and longterm solution and I know the best advice will be here! Thanks, Ajay |
#6
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![]() "unclenorm" wrote in message oups.com... snip All that other gear I would sell to finance a proper system including the U/V they do more harm than good. /snip If you don't sell the U/V I would at least unhook it so it doesn't run all the time. Maybe just put it in the system when you have need of it. |
#7
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Thanks a lot guys..I read up a bit also and basically understood that
wet/dry needs to go and I need to rely on either Berlin or Jaubert. I guess that means either LR or DSB based setups. I am adding LR ..have disconnected the Wet/Dry and UV..also now looking into water circulation of 4k litres an hour! That seems too much though.. Ajay "Ajay Malkani" wrote in message news:1110390956.a10dcf7a9c97f9976170e20735a6dfa5@t eranews... I have a 200 G fish with live rock fr about 10 months now and want to shift completely to a reef setup. All the required equipment is there. Lights, Eheim Wet/Dry, Eheim canister, powerheads, Uv, Skimmer, Chiller etc. Problem is the nitrates keep increasing till I water chnage. Is there any way to keep nitrates stable at the bare minimum? Do i need to add a denitrifying filter? Add Live rocks? Add Live Sand? What shld i basically do to make sure the nitrates dont rise? Ive been reading and I actually even read somewhere that a wet/dry will even enhance nitrate production! So do I dump it ? and substitute with what? Looking fr a simple and longterm solution and I know the best advice will be here! Thanks, Ajay |
#8
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Hi Ajay,
LR and DSB isn't an either or, you need both, and 4000 litres per hour is way to low for flow, I said 4000 gall per hour not litres, in litres it would be 18000 or more. The normal recommendation for most good reefs is 20 times the volume of the tank per hour. some people would use a good bit more than that. A low flow will inhibit the functioning of the live rock, having said that the flow through the refugium needs to be on the slow side for the DSB to work efficiently. regards, unclenorm. |
#9
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Unclenorm,
Please tell me your kidding with "needing" both LR and a DSB... if so that is just plain garbage! Ajay can have almost whatever setup he chooses provided he understands how it will function and is willing to deal with it's pro's and con's. U.V. isn't evil either, but has it's place, certainly hang on to it. I agree with the assessment on the "wet/dry" process though unless your running one with no media. That might make a decent sump out of it. The canister filter may come in handy for cleaning the tank so don't just hurl it into the trash bin or something. -- -- "unclenorm" wrote in message oups.com... Hi Ajay, LR and DSB isn't an either or, you need both, and 4000 litres per hour is way to low for flow, I said 4000 gall per hour not litres, in litres it would be 18000 or more. The normal recommendation for most good reefs is 20 times the volume of the tank per hour. some people would use a good bit more than that. A low flow will inhibit the functioning of the live rock, having said that the flow through the refugium needs to be on the slow side for the DSB to work efficiently. regards, unclenorm. |
#10
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Hi Benjamin,
I don't talk garbage I talk from very many years of experience and I wasn't kidding to have a successful reef in your tank replicating nature you need both as nature has, if you research the whys and wherefores of DSB's and what they accomplish maybe you will agree with me. Certainly Ajay or anyone else for that matter can have whatever set-up they choose and it may work after a fashion. My recommendations are for a pretty much self sustaining system that will just require the replenishment of some essential elements now and again when they have been depleted by your corals etc. Not one that requires regular water changes and multiple chemicals all the while to try to correct problems I didn't mention 'trash bin' nor did I call UV evil, I said it did more harm than good and I stand by that statement. I do advocate the use of a good protein skimmer, by good I don't mean expensive, there are plenty of cheap one that work perfectly well if properly set up. regards unclenorm. |
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