Hey Netmax.........

Started to work on that hood, with the built in fuge in the top of
it......gonna try it out on a 29 gal tank. I was gona try it on the
converted 48 gal reptile tank, but I decided to keep it for a river
tank, since it already has lots of perfectly placed holes in the glass
that I can use for plumbing water to various levels of the side
terrain.

The hood for the 29 has a water depth of 3" max, and it can be caried
by use of a standpipe. I even managed to mount a few power compacts
under the fuge itself, and still keep hoods overall height to about 6"
POwer to supply water is a Hydor pump, and water flows from one end of
the hood fuge and exits rthew oppoisite side. I have to put a hob
resivoir on the tank so if power goes out, the water in the fuge will
have a place to overflow / drain to, or when you may need to take the
hood off. Still working on an idea to allow water that drains back
into main tank after power outage, to flow into the hob resivoir, fast
enough to keep it from overflowing the display tank, but still allow
enough water in the main tank to come up to the bottom of the top
trim as a minimum. Thinking more of a slot than holes, would work
better.

The front panel on the hood opens for feeding etc. Its all made out of
acryic, and today I water tested the fuge and its water tight, no
leaks...anywhere. Hydor pump does a good job of pushing water up, and
gives good flow, but I need to install a few baffles to help channel
and slow water in the fuge a bit.

Weather it will work or not, matter not, it gives me something to play
with., but it does look promising.
--
\\\|///
( @ @ )
-----------oOOo(_)oOOo---------------


oooO
---------( )----Oooo----------------
\ ( ( )
\_) ) /
(_/
The original frugal ponder ! Koi-ahoi mates....

Roy wrote:
Started to work on that hood, with the built in fuge in the top of
it......gonna try it out on a 29 gal tank. I was gona try it on the
converted 48 gal reptile tank, but I decided to keep it for a river
tank, since it already has lots of perfectly placed holes in the glass
that I can use for plumbing water to various levels of the side
terrain.

The hood for the 29 has a water depth of 3" max, and it can be caried
by use of a standpipe. I even managed to mount a few power compacts
under the fuge itself, and still keep hoods overall height to about 6"
POwer to supply water is a Hydor pump, and water flows from one end of
the hood fuge and exits rthew oppoisite side. I have to put a hob
resivoir on the tank so if power goes out, the water in the fuge will
have a place to overflow / drain to, or when you may need to take the
hood off. Still working on an idea to allow water that drains back
into main tank after power outage, to flow into the hob resivoir, fast
enough to keep it from overflowing the display tank, but still allow
enough water in the main tank to come up to the bottom of the top
trim as a minimum. Thinking more of a slot than holes, would work
better.

The front panel on the hood opens for feeding etc. Its all made out of
acryic, and today I water tested the fuge and its water tight, no
leaks...anywhere. Hydor pump does a good job of pushing water up, and
gives good flow, but I need to install a few baffles to help channel
and slow water in the fuge a bit.

Weather it will work or not, matter not, it gives me something to play
with., but it does look promising.

You have me curious here...you are making the hood out of acrylic? I
might have you wrong here but the amount of natural light you could
provide that way in a room with sufficient light would be great....

If this is the case, how do you cope with artificial lighting and the
heat generated? or don't you bother...

I'm asking because, if you haven't noticed from recent postings, I'm
working on a custom built 6 foot tank in a very brightly lit room...I've
done a bit of reading - I found Richard Sexton's comments in his
Artificial Lighting document quite illuminating (pun intended). My tank
has a glass sliding top with triangles cut out for the pipe work...last
summer with the old traditional black plastic hood on a different tank I
had to keep the lights off in daytime to stop the algae growth but the
plants still did great...

Right now, I have the tank without any artificial lights...I have
planted some of it but it is still a work in progress (I've been waiting
for the LFS's to get the plants I want - sussed now they are ordering
what I've asked for)...one thing I have noticed is that the anubias are
actually flowering which they never really have with the flourescents in
the more conventional set ups...

So, please let me know your lighting plans....

Thanks
Gill

"Roy" wrote in message
...
Started to work on that hood, with the built in fuge in the top of
it......gonna try it out on a 29 gal tank. I was gona try it on the
converted 48 gal reptile tank, but I decided to keep it for a river
tank, since it already has lots of perfectly placed holes in the glass
that I can use for plumbing water to various levels of the side
terrain.

The hood for the 29 has a water depth of 3" max, and it can be caried
by use of a standpipe.

If your standpipe holds it at 3", then that's about 5-1/2g, making your
tank about 34g with 16% fuge. Impressive numbers. Pictures?

I even managed to mount a few power compacts
under the fuge itself, and still keep hoods overall height to about 6"

SO the cover is holding up about 48 lbs of water, and has lights
installed underneath. Nice.

POwer to supply water is a Hydor pump, and water flows from one end of
the hood fuge and exits rthew oppoisite side. I have to put a hob
resivoir on the tank so if power goes out, the water in the fuge will
have a place to overflow / drain to, or when you may need to take the
hood off.

Lost me. By my thinking, have your standpipe regulate the level. Your
Hydor should feed up, over and down, so with a power failure, it doesn't
siphon the water into the tank backwards (and your fuge stays full). To
drain, pop the standpipe out.

Still working on an idea to allow water that drains back
into main tank after power outage, to flow into the hob resivoir, fast
enough to keep it from overflowing the display tank, but still allow
enough water in the main tank to come up to the bottom of the top
trim as a minimum. Thinking more of a slot than holes, would work
better.

Doesn't sound practical that way. Fuge is too large (16%) for main tank.
You would have your operating water level too low. I suggest you leave
the water in the fuge.

The front panel on the hood opens for feeding etc. Its all made out of
acryic, and today I water tested the fuge and its water tight, no
leaks...anywhere. Hydor pump does a good job of pushing water up, and
gives good flow, but I need to install a few baffles to help channel
and slow water in the fuge a bit.

Sounds like you have your access established. You could also have an
acrylic tube through the fuge for access to the tank. If the fuge design
does not reach from front to back, then my assumption above is wrong
(less than 5-1/2g). Not reaching the front gives another option, slide
it back & forth along the top for rear access for servicing.

Weather it will work or not, matter not, it gives me something to play
with., but it does look promising.

Sounds very promising. Keep me up to date, and please... pictures!

ps: Not sure if it has application in Gill's canopy design. I'd expect
acrylic to buckle (bow) under temperature (from the lights). This
doesn't apply to you, as yours already has to structurally deal with the
fuge's weight, and the moving water would actually keep it from
overheating.
--
www.NetMax.tk

--
\\\|///
( @ @ )
-----------oOOo(_)oOOo---------------


oooO
---------( )----Oooo----------------
\ ( ( )
\_) ) /
(_/
The original frugal ponder ! Koi-ahoi mates....

I have marine tanks with full hoods made of acrylic with lots of HO
VHO and PC lights in the varioius hoods and have never had any warping
problems due rto heat. Of course on all the marine tanks I also run
cooling fans as well.

On Sat, 11 Mar 2006 19:35:51 -0500, "NetMax"
wrote:
"Roy" wrote in message
. ..
Started to work on that hood, with the built in fuge in the top of
it......gonna try it out on a 29 gal tank. I was gona try it on the
converted 48 gal reptile tank, but I decided to keep it for a river
tank, since it already has lots of perfectly placed holes in the glass
that I can use for plumbing water to various levels of the side
terrain.

The hood for the 29 has a water depth of 3" max, and it can be caried
by use of a standpipe.

If your standpipe holds it at 3", then that's about 5-1/2g, making your
tank about 34g with 16% fuge. Impressive numbers. Pictures?

Standpipe is able to be swapped for shorter lengths so I can govern
how much water will be in the canopy fuge. But the 3" is abut maximum
as that leaves approx 1/4" oof space between top of water and the
bottom of the acrylic top pieces around the permimeter of the tank
which forms the basic top.


I even managed to mount a few power compacts
under the fuge itself, and still keep hoods overall height to about 6"

SO the cover is holding up about 48 lbs of water, and has lights
installed underneath. Nice.

Lights are power compacts with remote mounted ballasts,

POwer to supply water is a Hydor pump, and water flows from one end of
the hood fuge and exits rthew oppoisite side. I have to put a hob
resivoir on the tank so if power goes out, the water in the fuge will
have a place to overflow / drain to, or when you may need to take the
hood off.

Lost me. By my thinking, have your standpipe regulate the level. Your
Hydor should feed up, over and down, so with a power failure, it doesn't
siphon the water into the tank backwards (and your fuge stays full). To
drain, pop the standpipe out.

Ahhhhhhhh, I see what your saying, I am pushing my water up into the
hood fuge through the side of the hoods fuge water container right at
the bottom edge. I could place it higher up the side, above the
projected pans water level, and shorten stand pipe to suit. I can
easily add in a drain if need be to drain fuge for complete hood
removal. Then I could totally eliminate the hang on back resivor /
that I was gong to have to make.

Still working on an idea to allow water that drains back
into main tank after power outage, to flow into the hob resivoir, fast
enough to keep it from overflowing the display tank, but still allow
enough water in the main tank to come up to the bottom of the top
trim as a minimum. Thinking more of a slot than holes, would work
better.

Doesn't sound practical that way. Fuge is too large (16%) for main tank.
You would have your operating water level too low. I suggest you leave
the water in the fuge.

Sounds better, now there is no need to have to slot or drill back side
for water to flow through from main tank when hood fuge drains
back.....

The front panel on the hood opens for feeding etc. Its all made out of
acryic, and today I water tested the fuge and its water tight, no
leaks...anywhere. Hydor pump does a good job of pushing water up, and
gives good flow, but I need to install a few baffles to help channel
and slow water in the fuge a bit.

Sounds like you have your access established. You could also have an
acrylic tube through the fuge for access to the tank. If the fuge design
does not reach from front to back, then my assumption above is wrong
(less than 5-1/2g). Not reaching the front gives another option, slide
it back & forth along the top for rear access for servicing.


I used acrylic piano hinges so the front panel essentially hinges
upwards, so I have pretty well most of the entire front area of the
tank accessible with the exception of 2" of fixed front panel on each
front corner.
Weather it will work or not, matter not, it gives me something to play
with., but it does look promising.

Sounds very promising. Keep me up to date, and please... pictures!

ps: Not sure if it has application in Gill's canopy design. I'd expect
acrylic to buckle (bow) under temperature (from the lights). This
doesn't apply to you, as yours already has to structurally deal with the
fuge's weight, and the moving water would actually keep it from
overheating.

--
\\\|///
( @ @ )
-----------oOOo(_)oOOo---------------


oooO
---------( )----Oooo----------------
\ ( ( )
\_) ) /
(_/
The original frugal ponder ! Koi-ahoi mates....

Gill
The hood / fuge I am playing with is made from black acrylic. Not
looking to allaow any light to enter the top of the tank than I want
to provide it with by way of PC lights. The hood has an integral (non
removeable and part of the main structure a pan which is 9" x 26" by
3 1/2" deep (3" actual usuable with water level)....on top opf a
standard 29 gal tank which measures 30" x 12 1/2". Water is pushe
dup into the integral pan, flows across pan and exits at opposite end.
The top pan forms a fuge in which the wife can grow more aquatic
plants that lke wet feet etc or lots of water, and also act like a
veggie filter on a typical koi pond setup. She currently has my hob
Aqua Clear hob powerfilters all planted with various plants...Sort of
adapting the marine end of the fuges to be sufficient to add some
"life" and function to the top of a normally bland hood. I will make
standoffs to be able to mount a grow type fixture above the fuge for
lighting if there is insufficient lights for the fuge plants.

Regards


On Sat, 11 Mar 2006 23:31:41 +0000, Gill Passman
wrote:
Roy wrote:
Started to work on that hood, with the built in fuge in the top of
it......gonna try it out on a 29 gal tank. I was gona try it on the
converted 48 gal reptile tank, but I decided to keep it for a river
tank, since it already has lots of perfectly placed holes in the glass
that I can use for plumbing water to various levels of the side
terrain.

The hood for the 29 has a water depth of 3" max, and it can be caried
by use of a standpipe. I even managed to mount a few power compacts
under the fuge itself, and still keep hoods overall height to about 6"
POwer to supply water is a Hydor pump, and water flows from one end of
the hood fuge and exits rthew oppoisite side. I have to put a hob
resivoir on the tank so if power goes out, the water in the fuge will
have a place to overflow / drain to, or when you may need to take the
hood off. Still working on an idea to allow water that drains back
into main tank after power outage, to flow into the hob resivoir, fast
enough to keep it from overflowing the display tank, but still allow
enough water in the main tank to come up to the bottom of the top
trim as a minimum. Thinking more of a slot than holes, would work
better.

The front panel on the hood opens for feeding etc. Its all made out of
acryic, and today I water tested the fuge and its water tight, no
leaks...anywhere. Hydor pump does a good job of pushing water up, and
gives good flow, but I need to install a few baffles to help channel
and slow water in the fuge a bit.

Weather it will work or not, matter not, it gives me something to play
with., but it does look promising.

You have me curious here...you are making the hood out of acrylic? I
might have you wrong here but the amount of natural light you could
provide that way in a room with sufficient light would be great....

If this is the case, how do you cope with artificial lighting and the
heat generated? or don't you bother...

I'm asking because, if you haven't noticed from recent postings, I'm
working on a custom built 6 foot tank in a very brightly lit room...I've
done a bit of reading - I found Richard Sexton's comments in his
Artificial Lighting document quite illuminating (pun intended). My tank
has a glass sliding top with triangles cut out for the pipe work...last
summer with the old traditional black plastic hood on a different tank I
had to keep the lights off in daytime to stop the algae growth but the
plants still did great...

Right now, I have the tank without any artificial lights...I have
planted some of it but it is still a work in progress (I've been waiting
for the LFS's to get the plants I want - sussed now they are ordering
what I've asked for)...one thing I have noticed is that the anubias are
actually flowering which they never really have with the flourescents in
the more conventional set ups...

So, please let me know your lighting plans....

Thanks
Gill

--
\\\|///
( @ @ )
-----------oOOo(_)oOOo---------------


oooO
---------( )----Oooo----------------
\ ( ( )
\_) ) /
(_/
The original frugal ponder ! Koi-ahoi mates....

Roy wrote:
Gill
The hood / fuge I am playing with is made from black acrylic. Not
looking to allaow any light to enter the top of the tank than I want
to provide it with by way of PC lights. The hood has an integral (non
removeable and part of the main structure a pan which is 9" x 26" by
3 1/2" deep (3" actual usuable with water level)....on top opf a
standard 29 gal tank which measures 30" x 12 1/2". Water is pushe
dup into the integral pan, flows across pan and exits at opposite end.
The top pan forms a fuge in which the wife can grow more aquatic
plants that lke wet feet etc or lots of water, and also act like a
veggie filter on a typical koi pond setup. She currently has my hob
Aqua Clear hob powerfilters all planted with various plants...Sort of
adapting the marine end of the fuges to be sufficient to add some
"life" and function to the top of a normally bland hood. I will make
standoffs to be able to mount a grow type fixture above the fuge for
lighting if there is insufficient lights for the fuge plants.

Regards


On Sat, 11 Mar 2006 23:31:41 +0000, Gill Passman
wrote:

Roy wrote:
Started to work on that hood, with the built in fuge in the top of
it......gonna try it out on a 29 gal tank. I was gona try it on the
converted 48 gal reptile tank, but I decided to keep it for a river
tank, since it already has lots of perfectly placed holes in the glass
that I can use for plumbing water to various levels of the side
terrain.

The hood for the 29 has a water depth of 3" max, and it can be caried
by use of a standpipe. I even managed to mount a few power compacts
under the fuge itself, and still keep hoods overall height to about 6"
POwer to supply water is a Hydor pump, and water flows from one end of
the hood fuge and exits rthew oppoisite side. I have to put a hob
resivoir on the tank so if power goes out, the water in the fuge will
have a place to overflow / drain to, or when you may need to take the
hood off. Still working on an idea to allow water that drains back
into main tank after power outage, to flow into the hob resivoir, fast
enough to keep it from overflowing the display tank, but still allow
enough water in the main tank to come up to the bottom of the top
trim as a minimum. Thinking more of a slot than holes, would work
better.

The front panel on the hood opens for feeding etc. Its all made out of
acryic, and today I water tested the fuge and its water tight, no
leaks...anywhere. Hydor pump does a good job of pushing water up, and
gives good flow, but I need to install a few baffles to help channel
and slow water in the fuge a bit.

Weather it will work or not, matter not, it gives me something to play
with., but it does look promising.

You have me curious here...you are making the hood out of acrylic? I
might have you wrong here but the amount of natural light you could
provide that way in a room with sufficient light would be great....

If this is the case, how do you cope with artificial lighting and the
heat generated? or don't you bother...

I'm asking because, if you haven't noticed from recent postings, I'm
working on a custom built 6 foot tank in a very brightly lit room...I've
done a bit of reading - I found Richard Sexton's comments in his
Artificial Lighting document quite illuminating (pun intended). My tank
has a glass sliding top with triangles cut out for the pipe work...last
summer with the old traditional black plastic hood on a different tank I
had to keep the lights off in daytime to stop the algae growth but the
plants still did great...

Right now, I have the tank without any artificial lights...I have
planted some of it but it is still a work in progress (I've been waiting
for the LFS's to get the plants I want - sussed now they are ordering
what I've asked for)...one thing I have noticed is that the anubias are
actually flowering which they never really have with the flourescents in
the more conventional set ups...

So, please let me know your lighting plans....

Thanks
Gill



Wow, that sounds great...I sort of misunderstood the acrylic side of
things thinking of this more as being a clear plastic - (might be the
old American/English thing where the same word means different
things)...we are still messing with ideas to light the 6 footer but
think it will end up the traditional flourescent tubes..

I like the whole concept of the veggie filter thing...unfortunately I
only have two (5 gall) tanks where this would be practical...they have
an external filtration system built into the hood - most of my tanks
have traditional canisters or internal pumps....What type of plants does
your wife grow in them?

Gill