Large Water Changes When Playing With Water Chemistry

I was wondering if any of you take any special precautions when adding
tap water that has different chemistry than the tank water.

I'm assuming it would be important to either *not* do a large water
change *or* to add water very slowly, over a period of time when one
is doing say, CO2 injection, or is using driftwood, coral, etc. to
alter water parameters.

Is this true, or is whether you can do it based on certain guidelines
re the extent of chemical difference or fish species involved?

TIA

"Jolly Fisherman" wrote in message
...

I was wondering if any of you take any special precautions when adding
tap water that has different chemistry than the tank water.

I'm assuming it would be important to either *not* do a large water
change *or* to add water very slowly, over a period of time when one
is doing say, CO2 injection, or is using driftwood, coral, etc. to
alter water parameters.

Is this true, or is whether you can do it based on certain guidelines
re the extent of chemical difference or fish species involved?

TIA

depends on the fish
sometimes merely matching temp is enuf
others they need a whole bloody week of acclimatisation
sigh
it's always the tricky ones ya get cut about losin too

On Tue, 10 Oct 2006 12:22:45 +1000, "swarvegorilla"
wrote:


"Jolly Fisherman" wrote in message
.. .

I was wondering if any of you take any special precautions when adding
tap water that has different chemistry than the tank water.

I'm assuming it would be important to either *not* do a large water
change *or* to add water very slowly, over a period of time when one
is doing say, CO2 injection, or is using driftwood, coral, etc. to
alter water parameters.

Is this true, or is whether you can do it based on certain guidelines
re the extent of chemical difference or fish species involved?

TIA

depends on the fish
sometimes merely matching temp is enuf
others they need a whole bloody week of acclimatisation
sigh

A Week!?! Holy cow.

it's always the tricky ones ya get cut about losin too

Yeah that's a shame.


Maybe you could help me with a more specific scenario?

I have a 55 gal planted tank. Tap water is pH 7.2, kH2, GH 5.
I have large chunks of Malaysian driftwood, that after 6 months
preparation probably still aren't ready for a tank, but look good
anyway. When sitting in tap water it causes a pH crash in no time. So
I'm preventing that in the tank with crushed coral in the filter. But
I still need to do large weekly water changes due to the driftwood
soup and fertilizer routine.

Now I'd like to add CO2 injection. I'm, expecting to add more crushed
coral to further raise the kH to a suitable level. If all goes
according to plan there would be a difference between the tank and tap
of about pH 6.8 & 7.2, kH 2 & 4 or so, GH yet unknown.

Is this too extreme for big water changes for Angels, blue rams,
otocinculous, Amano & Red Cherry Shrimp, Tai Flying fox, SAE's? Or
does it also have to do with the individual and its health?

Thanks

"Jolly Fisherman" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 10 Oct 2006 12:22:45 +1000, "swarvegorilla"
wrote:


Maybe you could help me with a more specific scenario?

I have a 55 gal planted tank. Tap water is pH 7.2, kH2, GH 5.
I have large chunks of Malaysian driftwood, that after 6 months
preparation probably still aren't ready for a tank, but look good
anyway. When sitting in tap water it causes a pH crash in no time. So
I'm preventing that in the tank with crushed coral in the filter. But
I still need to do large weekly water changes due to the driftwood
soup and fertilizer routine.

Now I'd like to add CO2 injection. I'm, expecting to add more crushed
coral to further raise the kH to a suitable level. If all goes
according to plan there would be a difference between the tank and tap
of about pH 6.8 & 7.2, kH 2 & 4 or so, GH yet unknown.

Is this too extreme for big water changes for Angels, blue rams,
otocinculous, Amano & Red Cherry Shrimp, Tai Flying fox, SAE's? Or
does it also have to do with the individual and its health?

Thanks

Not quite your setup, but I have a 55 with CO2, crushed coral, Otos and
SAEs, etc. I'm sort of doing the EI thing too, except I don't add Nitrates.
My PH is at 6.8, KH was 5 last time I checked and tap water is about PH 7.4,
although harder in the winter. I change about 40% of the water every week
with no obvious signs of distress. I've lost a couple of Otos along the way,
but I really can't attribute this to water changes.

I change about 50% of the water on the Gold Fish tank every week and the
smallest fish will occasionally start flashing. If this happens I will stop
refilling and add the rest of the water later. I suspect it's the large
change in the Nitrates causing the one fish to flash. A better solution is
in the works.

"Jolly Fisherman" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 10 Oct 2006 12:22:45 +1000, "swarvegorilla"
wrote:


"Jolly Fisherman" wrote in message
. ..

I was wondering if any of you take any special precautions when adding
tap water that has different chemistry than the tank water.

I'm assuming it would be important to either *not* do a large water
change *or* to add water very slowly, over a period of time when one
is doing say, CO2 injection, or is using driftwood, coral, etc. to
alter water parameters.

Is this true, or is whether you can do it based on certain guidelines
re the extent of chemical difference or fish species involved?

TIA

depends on the fish
sometimes merely matching temp is enuf
others they need a whole bloody week of acclimatisation
sigh

A Week!?! Holy cow.

it's always the tricky ones ya get cut about losin too

Yeah that's a shame.


Maybe you could help me with a more specific scenario?

I have a 55 gal planted tank. Tap water is pH 7.2, kH2, GH 5.
I have large chunks of Malaysian driftwood, that after 6 months
preparation probably still aren't ready for a tank, but look good
anyway. When sitting in tap water it causes a pH crash in no time. So
I'm preventing that in the tank with crushed coral in the filter. But
I still need to do large weekly water changes due to the driftwood
soup and fertilizer routine.

Now I'd like to add CO2 injection. I'm, expecting to add more crushed
coral to further raise the kH to a suitable level. If all goes
according to plan there would be a difference between the tank and tap
of about pH 6.8 & 7.2, kH 2 & 4 or so, GH yet unknown.

Is this too extreme for big water changes for Angels, blue rams,
otocinculous, Amano & Red Cherry Shrimp, Tai Flying fox, SAE's? Or
does it also have to do with the individual and its health?

Thanks

You have the right plan with the water changes
keep them small and regular
stability is the key here
I'd probably say your shrimp will be the 'canarys' as it were
start losing them or rams and you have to look at your regime
otherwise keep up the good work hey
Are your lights powerful enough for the plants to take advantage of the
extra co2?

"Bill Stock" wrote in message
...

"Jolly Fisherman" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 10 Oct 2006 12:22:45 +1000, "swarvegorilla"
wrote:


Maybe you could help me with a more specific scenario?

I have a 55 gal planted tank. Tap water is pH 7.2, kH2, GH 5.
I have large chunks of Malaysian driftwood, that after 6 months
preparation probably still aren't ready for a tank, but look good
anyway. When sitting in tap water it causes a pH crash in no time. So
I'm preventing that in the tank with crushed coral in the filter. But
I still need to do large weekly water changes due to the driftwood
soup and fertilizer routine.

Now I'd like to add CO2 injection. I'm, expecting to add more crushed
coral to further raise the kH to a suitable level. If all goes
according to plan there would be a difference between the tank and tap
of about pH 6.8 & 7.2, kH 2 & 4 or so, GH yet unknown.

Is this too extreme for big water changes for Angels, blue rams,
otocinculous, Amano & Red Cherry Shrimp, Tai Flying fox, SAE's? Or
does it also have to do with the individual and its health?

Thanks

Not quite your setup, but I have a 55 with CO2, crushed coral, Otos and
SAEs, etc. I'm sort of doing the EI thing too, except I don't add
Nitrates. My PH is at 6.8, KH was 5 last time I checked and tap water is
about PH 7.4, although harder in the winter. I change about 40% of the
water every week with no obvious signs of distress. I've lost a couple of
Otos along the way, but I really can't attribute this to water changes.

I change about 50% of the water on the Gold Fish tank every week and the
smallest fish will occasionally start flashing. If this happens I will
stop refilling and add the rest of the water later. I suspect it's the
large change in the Nitrates causing the one fish to flash. A better
solution is in the works.

nitrates, among other things.
changes in water chemistry will affect the fish surfaces exposed to it.
Slowing down when you notice a reaction is always a good plan.
I go by the theory that if your fish look relieved when you water change
then your not doing enough of them!
Ideal reaction is..... no reaction!
:-)
Ottos need a fair amount of food to browse on too
Have been having great results, not crowding and feeding vege flake and
frozen.

On Tue, 10 Oct 2006 19:24:27 +1000, "swarvegorilla"
wrote:

You have the right plan with the water changes
keep them small and regular
stability is the key here

Yes. Stability and KISS are my goals. Otherwise there's a lot of
room for me to screw up.

I'd probably say your shrimp will be the 'canarys' as it were
start losing them or rams and you have to look at your regime

The shrimp always seem to be hiding or blending in so they're hard to
tell. (The angels try to eat them if they are too bold). Actually I
don't have the rams yet. I'm not going to get any until I've made up
my mind about things.

otherwise keep up the good work hey
Are your lights powerful enough for the plants to take advantage of the
extra co2?

I *think* it's borderline. Right now I have 2x 65watt compact
fluorescent = 2.36 w/g. Basically I'm just trying to get information
and formulate plans for future changes. I was more serious about high
light + CO2 in the past, but shelved the idea because it was taking
too much time adjusting the water chemistry to support it on a running
tank and it looked like I was going to have to raise the pH too high
to get kH right with the approach I was using.

My plants aren't ideal, but things are improving. I'd like to see
them even better, and try things like riccia, but I'm not sure doing a
lot of regular gardening is really for me. The reality is, for my
lifestyle, I probably *should* be focusing on a stable low light tank.
My main concerns are always the fish, and limiting my time doing
maintenance. They've got me busy with all their fry. Frankly it's
already much too much.

Thanks to you and Bill for your input.

Hi..

I change about 50% of the water on the Gold Fish tank
every week

Good for Cloans, too..

and the smallest fish will occasionally start
flashing. If this happens I will stop refilling and add
the rest of the water later. I suspect it's the large
change in the Nitrates causing the one fish to flash.

Would you mind describe its behaviour while flashing?

--
cu
Marco

Cloans
Clowns..
--
cu
Marco

"Marco Schwarz" wrote in message
...
Hi..

I change about 50% of the water on the Gold Fish tank
every week

Good for Cloans, too..


Not sure I get this one. The Clones and the GF will be in alternate
universes, at least as far as they are concerned.

and the smallest fish will occasionally start
flashing. If this happens I will stop refilling and add
the rest of the water later. I suspect it's the large
change in the Nitrates causing the one fish to flash.

Would you mind describe its behaviour while flashing?

He darts around the tank at moderate speed, heading for the surface, but
never actually jumps out. Hasn't done it the last few water changes, which
is a good thing.





--
cu
Marco