Stoopid Nubeee

"Wayne Sallee" wrote in message
...
Pszemol wrote on 11/19/2007 10:34 PM:
"Wayne Sallee" wrote in message
...
Pszemol wrote on 11/19/2007 9:12 PM:
Wayne, I said that one was simple:
http://www.intermatic.com/images/ins...158ei12085.pdf
http://www.intermatic.com/images/ins...158ei12086.pdf
They are ideal for the resistive loads up to 15A (1800W)
like your bathroom lamp heater. Pretty simple and cheap.
I got one of these for my bathroom for $24.99 at Home Depot.

Skimmer switching problem is slightly more
complicated due to the reverse polarity. You want
to switch the pump OFF for some time not turn it
ON like the bathroom heater...


Yep, just a simple job of reversing the process with another relay switch.


Intermatic actually makes a DPDT version of that timer so no relay is
necessary. The big home improvement places don't stock that version, but you
should be able to find an electrical supply house to order it for you.

"Steve Heath" wrote in message . net...
Intermatic actually makes a DPDT version of that timer so no relay is
necessary. The big home improvement places don't stock that version, but
you should be able to find an electrical supply house to order it for you.

Could you please tell me what is the model number of the DPDT version?
Some link to their website with this model?

On Nov 20, 7:25 am, "Pszemol" wrote:
"Wayne Sallee" wrote in ...
Actually, what I would do, is take it apart, and
rewire it so that it works in reverse.

I would expect for safety reasons (this goes to the moist bathrooms)
this thing will be potted in resin, so I doubt it can be taken apart easily.

But one can try, of course... For me it is easier to buy $10 relay
do some simple wiring and be done with it in 10 minutes.

yeah, i have been thru electronic engineering, i like pez's idea.
My only idea of what your talking about is based on a timer board i
have here that i have used alot in the low volt industry such as
burglar alarm and CCTV/Access Control application, its simply called
a timer board...

on the low volt side;
just to connect a 120vAC's relay's low volt switch contacts(12v) onto
a separate low volt timer board. Connect the switch wire onto the
timer boards trigger contact screw terminals and run the wire up to
the area where you feed, to a (momentary)switch, and mount the switch.

on the 120v high volt side;
cut a small extension cord in half, solder or screw the female
half(part with holes in it) onto the 120V 'NC'(black wire) and
'Neutral/Common'(white wire) contacts of the relay,
solder or screw the male half on the relay's Hot (input) side. Your
skimmer would plug into the female end, and the male end woudl plug
into the wall. you would need a transformer to plug in the timer board
to run your switching mechanism which would wire directly to the timer
board.
then electrical tape up the timer board to the relay once all your
contacts are electrically safe, shove it into a dual gang box, and
then mount it under the tank stand or something.

This will get you a gang box with electronics, an extension cord to
plug it in, and one switch that can be ran to any location. You could
also put an outlet receptacle instead of the female extension end, and
mount that receptacle in the gang box. that would be sweet! but you
need to be sure you have enough room for your low volt stuff in there
or you may want to just use 2 gang boxes.

All green wires, and ground screws get connected together on the same
line, and get grounded from the 3rd prong on the cord once plugged
into the wall.

Turn the timer duration knob(potentiometer) until it meets your needs,
will be between 0-15 mins.

you would need-
1- timer board low volt (16vac-12vDC) (may be better to go with 12vDC)
(maybe radio shack)
1- 16vAC transformer (may be better to go with 12vDC) (radio shack)
1- 120/240V NC relay (usualyl have both NC/NO on them) (radio shack)
1- momentary 12v pushbutton switch (wal mart/home depot)
1- 14guage 3 prong extension cord (wal mart/home depot)
1 or 2- blue plastic gang boxes ($0.75c/each) (wal mart/home depot)
1 or 2- gang box covers ($0.88c/e) (wal mart/home depot)
1- outlet receptacle ($0.88c) (wal mart/home depot)
some 12guage wire nuts


how much of this is overkill compared to the other ideas? i don't
know how much those in wall timers are but they look a hell of a lot
easier to just connect up. technology has improved greatly in the
last decade where things are much smaller and cheaper. If it were one
of those i would mount it under the tank with a gang box, and cut an
extension cord in half and use that for the supply just the same and
maybe even use a receptacle next to that instead of hard wiring a
female end or the skimmer.

Pszemol wrote on 11/20/2007 10:25 AM:
"Wayne Sallee" wrote in message
...
Actually, what I would do, is take it apart, and rewire it so that it
works in reverse.

I would expect for safety reasons (this goes to the moist bathrooms)
this thing will be potted in resin,

I doubt it.

Wayne Sallee

"wolfdogg" wrote in message ...
yeah, i have been thru electronic engineering, i like pez's idea.
My only idea of what your talking about is based on a timer board i
have here that i have used alot in the low volt industry such as
burglar alarm and CCTV/Access Control application, its simply called
a timer board...

on the low volt side;
just to connect a 120vAC's relay's low volt switch contacts(12v) onto
a separate low volt timer board. Connect the switch wire onto the
timer boards trigger contact screw terminals and run the wire up to
the area where you feed, to a (momentary)switch, and mount the switch.

on the 120v high volt side;
cut a small extension cord in half, solder or screw the female
half(part with holes in it) onto the 120V 'NC'(black wire) and
'Neutral/Common'(white wire) contacts of the relay,
solder or screw the male half on the relay's Hot (input) side. Your
skimmer would plug into the female end, and the male end woudl plug
into the wall. you would need a transformer to plug in the timer board
to run your switching mechanism which would wire directly to the timer
board.
then electrical tape up the timer board to the relay once all your
contacts are electrically safe, shove it into a dual gang box, and
then mount it under the tank stand or something.

This will get you a gang box with electronics, an extension cord to
plug it in, and one switch that can be ran to any location. You could
also put an outlet receptacle instead of the female extension end, and
mount that receptacle in the gang box. that would be sweet! but you
need to be sure you have enough room for your low volt stuff in there
or you may want to just use 2 gang boxes.

All green wires, and ground screws get connected together on the same
line, and get grounded from the 3rd prong on the cord once plugged
into the wall.

Turn the timer duration knob(potentiometer) until it meets your needs,
will be between 0-15 mins.

you would need-
1- timer board low volt (16vac-12vDC) (may be better to go with 12vDC)
(maybe radio shack)
1- 16vAC transformer (may be better to go with 12vDC) (radio shack)
1- 120/240V NC relay (usualyl have both NC/NO on them) (radio shack)
1- momentary 12v pushbutton switch (wal mart/home depot)
1- 14guage 3 prong extension cord (wal mart/home depot)
1 or 2- blue plastic gang boxes ($0.75c/each) (wal mart/home depot)
1 or 2- gang box covers ($0.88c/e) (wal mart/home depot)
1- outlet receptacle ($0.88c) (wal mart/home depot)
some 12guage wire nuts

What is the cost of the timer board? Transformer?

how much of this is overkill compared to the other ideas? i don't
know how much those in wall timers are but they look a hell of a lot
easier to just connect up. technology has improved greatly in the
last decade where things are much smaller and cheaper. If it were one
of those i would mount it under the tank with a gang box, and cut an
extension cord in half and use that for the supply just the same and
maybe even use a receptacle next to that instead of hard wiring a
female end or the skimmer.

It sounds like a huge overkill and very pricey aparatus... :-)

Just going with 120VAC to low voltage seems to be quite unnecessairy
since you can easily buy a relay with a coil rated to 120VAC so you
can control this relay simply from the output of the auto shut-off timer.
So the whole idea is $25 for the brain (shut-off timer), $10 for the
muscle (relay with 120VAC coil), $4 for a 4"x4" electrocal box and
a buck or two for the faceplate, wire and wirenuts. You hide the relay
in this box together with the auto shut-off timer and you are done :-)
Auto shut-off timer is your "user interface" - this is where the ON
button is. This button will work in the opposite way due to the relay.

"Wayne Sallee" wrote in message ...
Pszemol wrote on 11/20/2007 10:25 AM:
"Wayne Sallee" wrote in message
...
Actually, what I would do, is take it apart, and rewire it so that it
works in reverse.

I would expect for safety reasons (this goes to the moist bathrooms)
this thing will be potted in resin,

I doubt it.

Whole thing is riveted into a plastic box...
You would need to cut the rivets to get inside and who
knows what would you find inside - I would expect this poted.
It was relatively heavy to hold in a hand, filled with resin.

"Pszemol" wrote in message
...
"Steve Heath" wrote in message
. net...
Intermatic actually makes a DPDT version of that timer so no relay is
necessary. The big home improvement places don't stock that version, but
you should be able to find an electrical supply house to order it for
you.

Could you please tell me what is the model number of the DPDT version?
Some link to their website with this model?

Take a look here.
http://www.intermatic.com/Default.as...6&cid=53&did=5
I didn't see the DPDT any more, but you could use one of the SPDT versions
the same way.

--
Steve

Pszemol wrote on 11/20/2007 3:37 PM:
"Wayne Sallee" wrote in message
...
Pszemol wrote on 11/20/2007 10:25 AM:
"Wayne Sallee" wrote in message
...
Actually, what I would do, is take it apart, and rewire it so that
it works in reverse.

I would expect for safety reasons (this goes to the moist bathrooms)
this thing will be potted in resin,

I doubt it.

Whole thing is riveted into a plastic box...
You would need to cut the rivets to get inside and who
knows what would you find inside - I would expect this poted.
It was relatively heavy to hold in a hand, filled with resin.

Then it might be filled with resin. If I had one,
I'd drill the rivets and find out. Since rivets are
hollow, screws could be inserted in the rivets when
putting the thing back together.

Wayne Sallee