RM...........here are some links to some good sites that have the proper bulbs

"TSJ of course" wrote in message
...
By the way, unlike like lamps
specialy made for aquariums, ordinary house lamps would not light up
the whole aquarium the same way.
====================
OK, the sites just sell bulbs. There's no explanation of what's best for FW
tanks or tanks with algae problems. Now the problem with my buying bulbs to
help with the algae would be a hard sell to my husband since the Flourish
Excel fiasco. I was assured over and over that algae turns white and falls
off when FE is used. Although I found that almost impossible to believe,
like a fool I bought the stuff. I bought a lot of it, and it's totally
useless. Then the same man from the plant group tried to get me to purchase
some other expensive crap from his friend who sells fertilizers. I can
spend well over $100 on bulbs and still have the algae problem. So you can
see why I hesitate to start buying expensive bulbs when the FE did nothing.
--

RM....
Zone 6. Middle TN USA
~~~~ }((((* ~~~ }{{{{(ö

On Dec 21, 6:02*pm, "Reel McKoi" wrote:
"TSJ of course" wrote in ...
*By the way, unlike like lamps specialy made for aquariums, ordinary house lamps would not light up
the whole aquarium the same way.

====================
OK, the sites just sell bulbs. There's no explanation of what's best for FW
tanks or tanks with algae problems. *Now the problem with my buying bulbs to
help with the algae would be a hard sell to my husband since the Flourish
Excel fiasco. *I was assured over and over that algae turns white and falls
off when FE is used. Although I found that almost impossible to believe,
like a fool I bought the stuff. * I bought a lot of it, and it's totally
useless. *Then the same man from the plant group tried to get me to purchase
some other expensive crap from his friend who sells fertilizers. *I can
spend well over $100 on bulbs and still have the algae problem. *So you can
see why I hesitate to start buying expensive bulbs when the FE did nothing..
--

RM....
Zone 6. *Middle TN USA
~~~~ *}((((* *~~~ * }{{{{(ö

YOu should be able to get bulbs for approx 12-15 bucks
each.............and since your gonna have to start somewhere go with
the Coralife Nutri Grow Plant Lamps. NO guarantee though as I am not a
plant kind of person, so you may have to try another type of bulb if
that did not work. A few more things is really needed to help with
the picking of the bulbs though. DSo these lights thata you have set
on top of the aquarium frame or are they suspended over the tanks,
and how high are the bulbs from the water surface and tank substrate?
2, 40watt bulbs ought to be plenty of light for a 55 gal
tank..............I prefer the compact florescent fixtures myself,
over NO types of florescent tubes, but they will cost more initially
and for bulb replacements every 12 months or so........but they pack a
lot more watts into the same areas than NO types of florescents do.
Those places that sell bulbs all have discriptions of the bulbs and
what to use them for........Coralifes "aqualight" is super when it
comes to aquarium lighting, but it will set you back better than a C
note for a 55 gal tank...............Please explain how you have the
lights installed over the tanks.............and are you using a
polished metallic reflector or a plain white reflector.

YOU can call Hello lights or any of these other places and talk to
associates. Hello lights is especially knowledgeable..........AH
Supply makes a great compact florescent light assembly that can be
retrofit into the typical strip lights commonly found on a lot of
aquariums......(standard basic strip light as supplied by factory
which nornmally has tube florescent light bulb in it) YOU can pack
lots more wattage in that same area with a retro kit from AH
supply...........probably be easy to put 2 x 96 or 2 x 65 watt CF
lights in the typical strip light / hood with minimal renovating a
typical hood.........and then you could easily grow virtually
anything. I just put two 55 watt PC lights over a 29 gal tank in
original strip light (1 x 18 watt bulb standard) and its super
bright............and I have no doubt its bright enough to allow me to
plant more Helvola water lilys in that tank as well....and have them
bloom all year round.......

"Tynk" wrote in message
...

YOu should be able to get bulbs for approx 12-15 bucks
each.............

* I would need 8 of them so that's kind of out of the question unless I know
for sure they'd get rid of the algae.

and since your gonna have to start somewhere go with
the Coralife Nutri Grow Plant Lamps. NO guarantee though as I am not a
plant kind of person, so you may have to try another type of bulb if
that did not work. A few more things is really needed to help with
the picking of the bulbs though. DSo these lights thata you have set
on top of the aquarium frame or are they suspended over the tanks,
and how high are the bulbs from the water surface and tank substrate?

* They're shop lights that sit right on the tank's rim about 2" from the
water's surface.

2, 40watt bulbs ought to be plenty of light for a 55 gal
tank.............

* Not if you want to grow plants. All I got were spindly sickly plants and
diatoms with only 2, 40w bulbs.

..I prefer the compact florescent fixtures myself,
over NO types of florescent tubes, but they will cost more initially
and for bulb replacements every 12 months or so........but they pack a
lot more watts into the same areas than NO types of florescents do.
Those places that sell bulbs all have discriptions of the bulbs and
what to use them for........Coralifes "aqualight" is super when it
comes to aquarium lighting, but it will set you back better than a C
note for a 55 gal tank...............Please explain how you have the
lights installed over the tanks.............and are you using a
polished metallic reflector or a plain white reflector.

* They're just the cheap white shop reflectors sold in all the Hope Depot
type stores for under $15. They sit side by side on the tank's rim.

YOU can call Hello lights or any of these other places and talk to
associates. Hello lights is especially knowledgeable..........AH
Supply makes a great compact florescent light assembly that can be
retrofit into the typical strip lights commonly found on a lot of
aquariums......(standard basic strip light as supplied by factory
which nornmally has tube florescent light bulb in it)

* These tanks didn't come with Aquarium strip lights. I've always just had
shop lights on them.

YOU can pack
lots more wattage in that same area with a retro kit from AH
supply...........probably be easy to put 2 x 96 or 2 x 65 watt CF
lights in the typical strip light / hood with minimal renovating a
typical hood........

* I don't have those regular tank strips for the 55s, they're just the 10s.
I use 2 40w CFs on the 10s and plants thrive.

..and then you could easily grow virtually
anything. I just put two 55 watt PC lights over a 29 gal tank in
original strip light (1 x 18 watt bulb standard) and its super
bright............and I have no doubt its bright enough to allow me to
plant more Helvola water lilys in that tank as well....and have them
bloom all year round.......

* These are just common shop lights that I put cool white and warm white
bulbs in. Before I spend "big bucks" on bulbs that may make no more
difference than the Flourish Excel made, I'll let the plants die and use
water lettuce and hornwart. Together they'll just shade and starve the algae
out but that is very dissapointing. Having live plants in my tanks is all
part of the "fishy" scene.

I did add another rubberlip pleco to that tank today. Massive water changes
and serious gravel vacuuming has made no difference either.
--

RM....
Zone 6. Middle TN USA
~~~~ }((((* ~~~ }{{{{(ö

On Dec 24, 7:55*pm, "Reel McKoi" wrote:
"Tynk" wrote in message

...

YOu should be able to get bulbs for approx 12-15 bucks
each.............

* I would need 8 of them so that's kind of out of the question unless I know
for sure they'd get rid of the algae.

and since your gonna have to start somewhere go with
the Coralife Nutri Grow Plant Lamps. NO guarantee though as I am not a
plant kind of person, so you may have to try another type of bulb if
that did not work. *A few more things is really needed to help with
the picking of the bulbs though. DSo these lights *thata you have set
on top of the aquarium frame *or are they suspended over the tanks,
and how high are the bulbs from the water surface and tank substrate?

* They're shop lights that sit right on the tank's rim about 2" from the
water's surface.

2, 40watt bulbs ought to be plenty of light for a 55 gal
tank.............

* *Not if you want to grow plants. All I got were spindly sickly plants and
diatoms with only 2, 40w bulbs.

.I prefer the compact florescent fixtures myself,
over NO types of florescent tubes, but they will cost more initially
and for bulb replacements every 12 months or so........but they pack a
lot more watts into the same areas than NO types of florescents do.
Those places that sell bulbs all have discriptions of the bulbs and
what to use them for........Coralifes "aqualight" is super when it
comes to aquarium lighting, but it will set *you back better than a C
note for a 55 gal tank...............Please explain how you have the
lights installed over the tanks.............and are you using a
polished metallic reflector or a plain white reflector.

* *They're just the cheap white shop reflectors sold in all the Hope Depot
type stores for under $15. They sit side by side on the tank's rim.

YOU can call Hello lights or any of these other places and talk to
associates. Hello lights is especially knowledgeable..........AH
Supply makes a great compact florescent light assembly that can be
retrofit into the typical strip lights commonly found on a lot of
aquariums......(standard basic strip light as supplied by factory
which nornmally has tube florescent light bulb in it)

* These tanks didn't come with Aquarium strip lights. I've always just had
shop lights on them.

YOU can pack
lots more wattage in that same area with a retro kit from AH
supply...........probably be easy to put 2 x 96 or 2 x 65 watt CF
lights in the typical strip light / hood with minimal renovating a
typical hood........

* I don't have those regular tank strips for the 55s, they're just the 10s..
I use 2 40w CFs on the 10s and plants thrive.

.and then you could easily grow virtually
anything. I just put two 55 watt PC lights over a 29 gal tank in
original strip light (1 x 18 watt *bulb standard) *and its *super
bright............and I have no doubt its bright enough to allow me to
plant more Helvola water lilys in that tank as well....and have them
bloom all year round.......

* These are just common shop lights that I put cool white and warm white
bulbs in. *Before I spend "big bucks" on bulbs that may make no more
difference than the Flourish Excel made, I'll let the plants die and use
water lettuce and hornwart. Together they'll just shade and starve the algae
out but that is very dissapointing. *Having live plants in my tanks is all
part of the "fishy" scene.

I did add another rubberlip pleco to that tank today. *Massive water changes
and serious gravel vacuuming has made no difference either.
--

RM....
Zone 6. *Middle TN USA
~~~~ *}((((* *~~~ * }{{{{(ö

OK, now were getting somewhere. Regular old shop lights with a with
reflector. That is most likely the main problem. First off, the
reflectors on those lights are made to reflect light from a height so
yuo get decent light dispersion. The light reflected is made to
disperse out and cover a wide area (cone of dispersion) and that they
are that close to a tank and only have a short distance to travel
until the light hits the substrate and is reflected out or back,. odds
are the majority of your light is being reflected "OUTSIDE" the tank
itself, and not as much inside the tank as you really think is there.
White reflectors is sufficient in most cases for a shop light however
it does little to nothing for good results in a fish tank, but its
still better than black. I'll bet you a coffee that proper bulbs (no
more than 2x40Wattaers of the correct kelvin temps and "PROPER"
reflectors will be more than enough light for "ANY" Freshwater palnts
you can possibly grow in a 55 gal tank..............People
underestimate the reflectors on a fish tank and next to the proper
lamp itself they are very important. If yu have the right light bulb,
and can not get it to disperse properly you may as well use any old
lamp as your not getting the full benefit out of them.

I am sure you or your better half can nail and cut a few boards.Why
not get some 1 x 6 pine and fashion up a quick and dirty wooden hood
for a fish tank (do one tank to start) nothuing needs to b e fancey,
and just look at how some hoods are made in places like Petco er ah
make that Deathco. A simple wooden frame box, with a few slats of 1 x
2 spaced apart on top to allow heat and ventilation to escape, and
also provides a place to mount lights under. If yu want some pics I
can post URL of a few sites that has simple yet effective aquarium
hoods that are easy enough to make. Then pay Big Als or another online
vendor a call, and purchase proper reflectors and attach them to the
metal white reflectors all ready on yuor shop lights......or retro fit
ballast and sockets etc from shop lights into the wooden hood..and
install proper bulbs......................done..............a quick
stain is all thats needed to finish it off..............and maybe a
top coat of clear sealer like polyurethane or varnish............I can
just about guarantee, your black algae problems will be over and you
can grow virtually any freshwater plant around then in these
aquariums. The lights would be a much different inmprovement that
will be benefical and work. Flourish Excel may work but its not going
to take the palce of having a proper lighting setup. The lights you
have now are fine and dandy for a fish only tank or with a few low
light requirement plants, but still leave a lot to b e desired overall
as the color specturm and kelvin is totally wrong. Your plants as well
as your fish will all look and grow better, well the plants will
anyhow, because fish for thr most part are not reliant on linghts like
a plant is, but I bet the colors in the fish will be much more
vibrant. I believe lighting is about the most important item that can
be done to a fish tank that is going to have live plants or corals in
p lace and the person with the tank is totally committed to having
nice plants and corals growing, than almost any other thing that can
be done to a tank. Heck even the cheapest filters around will do a
decent job of what they are designed for, but a light is not that
way.............a cheap light setup will not do a thing for a fish
tank other than provide illumination for the tanks owner to see whats
inside..................Once proper lights are in place it may take a
few weeks to a month or two to get lighting schedule worked out, but
odds are in that time frame your plants are gonna start to kick ass
and things will look better every day.............Like I said propper
bulbs and reflectors in a home brew hood is not even in the same
league as adding supplements to a tank..........

"AquariumFatasies" wrote in message
...
On Dec 24, 7:55 pm, "Reel McKoi" wrote:
I did add another rubberlip pleco to that tank today. Massive water
changes
and serious gravel vacuuming has made no difference either.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
OK, now were getting somewhere. Regular old shop lights with a with
reflector. That is most likely the main problem. First off, the
reflectors on those lights are made to reflect light from a height so
yuo get decent light dispersion.

* No. They have the shade thing on the sides to direct the light downward.
They come that way. The tanks are very bright.

The light reflected is made to
disperse out and cover a wide area (cone of dispersion) and that they
are that close to a tank and only have a short distance to travel
until the light hits the substrate and is reflected out or back,. odds
are the majority of your light is being reflected "OUTSIDE" the tank
itself,

* The light is reflected down due to the side things on the reflectors.

and not as much inside the tank as you really think is there.
White reflectors is sufficient in most cases for a shop light however
it does little to nothing for good results in a fish tank, but its
still better than black. I'll bet you a coffee that proper bulbs (no
more than 2x40Wattaers of the correct kelvin temps and "PROPER"
reflectors will be more than enough light for "ANY" Freshwater palnts
you can possibly grow in a 55 gal tank.

* These provide enough LIGHT to grow plants successfully - until the algae
starts growing on them. Once the algae attacks them, either the red (I call
black) or green algae, their growth stops. I was told that Flourish Excel
would kill off the algae by an old timer on these groups. That wasn't true.
It seems to stimulate the algae.

..............People
underestimate the reflectors on a fish tank and next to the proper
lamp itself they are very important. If yu have the right light bulb,
and can not get it to disperse properly you may as well use any old
lamp as your not getting the full benefit out of them.

* Which is the right bulb in preventing red and green algae? And are they
guaranteed to work? If one doesn't work do I have to keep buying and
throwing out one bulb after another? I honestly never heard of a bulb that
allowed aquarium plants to thrive but not algae.

I am sure you or your better half can nail and cut a few boards.Why
not get some 1 x 6 pine and fashion up a quick and dirty wooden hood
for a fish tank (do one tank to start) nothuing needs to b e fancey,
and just look at how some hoods are made in places like Petco er ah
make that Deathco. A simple wooden frame box, with a few slats of 1 x
2 spaced apart on top to allow heat and ventilation to escape, and
also provides a place to mount lights under. If yu want some pics I
can post URL of a few sites that has simple yet effective aquarium
hoods that are easy enough to make. Then pay Big Als or another online
vendor a call, and purchase proper reflectors and attach them to the
metal white reflectors all ready on yuor shop lights......or retro fit
ballast and sockets etc from shop lights into the wooden hood..and
install proper bulbs.

* I'm not at all handy with tools and making things out of wood. And how
will that get rid of the algae? Also, I really don't want to have to lift a
heavy wood hood every time I feed the fish or want to remove algae from the
front glass. I never heard of any reflectors or bulbs that caused plants to
thrive but not algae. I can't afford to try one bulb after the other.....

......................done..............a quick
stain is all thats needed to finish it off..............and maybe a
top coat of clear sealer like polyurethane or varnish............I can
just about guarantee, your black algae problems will be over and you
can grow virtually any freshwater plant around then in these
aquariums.

* Why would the algae problems be over? The Flourish Excel was supposed to
do that and it does nothing. It doesn't even help the plants grow. It's a
rip-off like so many products these days. I don't follow your logic here
with the wood reflector. The units come with shade type reflectors that
direct the light downwards.

The lights would be a much different inmprovement that
will be benefical and work. Flourish Excel may work but its not going
to take the palce of having a proper lighting setup.

* What bulbs are the proper bulbs that allow plant but not algae growth? I
found no such bulbs online. Which are you using?

The lights you
have now are fine and dandy for a fish only tank or with a few low
light requirement plants, but still leave a lot to b e desired overall
as the color specturm and kelvin is totally wrong.

* Then what is the correct spectrum and Kelvin to allow plant but not algae
growth and do they guarantee them or will I go broke replacing bulbs?

Your plants as well
as your fish will all look and grow better, well the plants will
anyhow, because fish for thr most part are not reliant on linghts like
a plant is, but I bet the colors in the fish will be much more
vibrant. I believe lighting is about the most important item that can
be done to a fish tank that is going to have live plants or corals in
p lace and the person with the tank is totally committed to having
nice plants and corals growing, than almost any other thing that can
be done to a tank. Heck even the cheapest filters around will do a
decent job of what they are designed for, but a light is not that
way.............a cheap light setup will not do a thing for a fish
tank other than provide illumination for the tanks owner to see whats
inside..................

Once proper lights are in place

* Which are the proper lights and do they guarantee no algae? The Flourish
Excel was supposed to take care of algae.

it may take a
few weeks to a month or two to get lighting schedule worked out, but
odds are in that time frame your plants are gonna start to kick ass
and things will look better every day...........

* Yep! That's what they said on the plant NG (RAFP) about the Flourish
Excel.

...Like I said propper
bulbs and reflectors in a home brew hood is not even in the same
league as adding supplements to a tank..........

Eveyone tells me something different. The FE was supposed to do magic along
with water changes and gravel vacuuming. They swore that was the answer. A
homemade hood is out of the question. I don't know anyone who could make it
for me and I don't want to have to lift down a heavy wood hood every time I
want to feed my fish. I see no connection between a homemade hood and alge.

So which bulbs are guaranteed to get rid of the algae and did you have the
same conditions I have? If they're not guaranteed to work I wont keep
throwing money away on bulb after bulb.
--

RM....
Zone 6. Middle TN USA
~~~~ }((((* ~~~ }{{{{(ö

On Tue, 25 Dec 2007 07:40:31 -0800, AquariumFatasies wrote:

I'll bet you a coffee that proper bulbs (no
more than 2x40Watters of the correct kelvin temps and "PROPER"
reflectors will be more than enough light for "ANY" Freshwater plants
you can possibly grow in a 55 gal tank.

I'm not so sure about that. They may be sufficient at first, but light
output seems to drop off fairly quickly. I've had good luck with the
proverbial 2 watts per gallon in tanks of normal depth.

Even then I'd use the Tropica website and stay away from any plants they
describe as needing high light.

As far as a homemade reflector, I used aluminum flashing in a couple of
homemade hoods. Certainly no work of art, but seems to work. Just make
sure the flashing you buy is polished on at least one side.

On Tue, 25 Dec 2007 11:28:59 -0600, Reel McKoi wrote:

* Which is the right bulb in preventing red and green algae? And are they
guaranteed to work? If one doesn't work do I have to keep buying and
throwing out one bulb after another? I honestly never heard of a bulb that
allowed aquarium plants to thrive but not algae.

There is no easy solution to algae. If it's the flat type that grows on
the glass, I just scrape it off the front and leave it on the sides and
back. If it's the hairy type that grows on the plants and the gravel, the
only solution I've found is manual removal. As soon as you see algae on a
leaf, cut off that leaf. I've sometimes removed as much as half of a
plant at one time. They always grow back :-).

On Dec 25, 12:22*pm, Larry Blanchard wrote:
On Tue, 25 Dec 2007 07:40:31 -0800, AquariumFatasies wrote:
*I'll bet you a coffee that proper bulbs (no
more than 2x40Watters of the correct kelvin temps and "PROPER"
reflectors will be more than enough light for "ANY" Freshwater plants
you can possibly grow in a 55 gal tank.

I'm not so sure about that. *They may be sufficient at first, but light
output seems to drop off fairly quickly. *I've had good luck with the
proverbial 2 watts per gallon in tanks of normal depth.

Even then I'd use the Tropica website and stay away from any plants they
describe as needing high light.

As far as a homemade reflector, I used aluminum flashing in a couple of
homemade hoods. *Certainly no work of art, but seems to work. *Just make
sure the flashing you buy is polished on at least one side.

Biggest problem on making ones own reflectors is if they are not bent
exactly right for the diameter of the bulb used, the distance of bulb
from bottom of reflector, and from the sides of said reflector, and
from the substrate and the width of tank where you want yur light to
be at, all it does is create a false sense of ample lights but it does
little but look like it works better.......sxure it will be better
than nothiong, but what happens is called "restrike" which is whenm
light output hits the reflector and it reflected back at the bul
again, and then back at the reflector...and this happens over and over
with that light being lost bouncing back and forth. It adds heat
energy to a florescent tube which also shortens the lifespan and kills
phosphors off faster, and does little if anyhting to use the light the
bulb gives off to its fullest advantage. There is alot more involved
in making a reflector. There is a online program that gives the proper
bend angles and dimensions for use with various sized and types of
tubes like T8 or T5 or T12's etc etc and even compact florescents.
You'll find that most if not all reflectors will have more than a
simple U shaped bend in them and none will have a typical rounded
radius bend. They all a have faceted angles to reflect light from bulb
to reflector to water or from reflector to another spot on the
reflector and then into the water, but not back on the bulb itself to
any real amount. Even those reflectors you get in the strip lights
are a real joke........Wanna waste some money.buy some T-5 lights and
use reflectors you make or that were suitable for tyopical T8. 12 or
16 bulbs...............Its been proven that your better off without
any reflectors if you do not use the proper reflectors with those
bulbs (T-5 are approx 1/2 or 5/8" diam and are the latest in aquarium
lighting and cost big bucks as do proper reflectors for them) But
using improper reflectors with those T5's results in extremely poor
output of lighting plus extreme heat build up and veryshort life of T5
bulbs. A lot of foks tried to cut corners on reflectors and got bit!
If you think a good factory made reflector is expensive check out the
price for a good T5 reflector.........pricey!

A scotch brite pad and 0000 steel wool will polish up tyupical
aluminum flashing and its better than white reflectors any
day.............

Getting riod of algae is a process of experimenting as everyuones
tanks are different, as is available natural light sources that
infiltrate in the room, as is room lighting and evenminutes lights are
on or off, as well as a heap of other variables. All anyone can do is
suggest a somewhat in the ball park range to start at and then go one
way or another from there. It may involve buying different light
bulbs again, experimenting with plants used, time of lighting etc
etc..........but it can be done.........................Reef tanks are
doomed if algae builds up in most cases, yet folks with a bit of
perserverance do conquer the problems and win..My reef tanks as well
as the majority of my FW are all pretty well free of rampany bkliooms
of any kind of algae except for what I want growiong in there, and it
did take considerable time to get them that way..........and yes ,I
did buy a lot of bulbs over the years and still continue to do so
almost every year when I plonk a few bills down to replace ALL my
florescent tubes but its still worth it overall to not be eat up with
alage and to have a nice tank with minimal maintenance to enjoy it.
Even paintinmg the back of the tank with say black paint to eliminmate
light from coming in is good. Its better than those backgrounds they
sell which stil allows light to some degree and always look so tacky.
Regular latex paint does a great job of blocking light from theback of
the tank and in 99% of the cases it gives great contrast to planats,
substrate and fish in a tank than any stick on background could do.
Itys easy to remove with a razor blade scraper to.........and it
matters not what you use in regards to flat or gloss as it all looks
like gloss through the glass..plus the added benefit of hiding cords
and filters etc etc.

"Larry Blanchard" wrote in message
news
On Tue, 25 Dec 2007 11:28:59 -0600, Reel McKoi wrote:

* Which is the right bulb in preventing red and green algae? And are
they
guaranteed to work? If one doesn't work do I have to keep buying and
throwing out one bulb after another? I honestly never heard of a bulb
that
allowed aquarium plants to thrive but not algae.

There is no easy solution to algae. If it's the flat type that grows on
the glass, I just scrape it off the front and leave it on the sides and
back. If it's the hairy type that grows on the plants and the gravel, the
only solution I've found is manual removal. As soon as you see algae on a
leaf, cut off that leaf. I've sometimes removed as much as half of a
plant at one time. They always grow back :-).
===============================
It's the velvety red (black) algae that covers and smothers the plants. It
doesn't grow on one leaf or a few leaves but covers everything including the
glass and gravel. I scrape it off the glass but can't get it off plants.
They'd be leafless. Then there's the short soft green algae. But there's
not too much of the green stuff. It hit like gangbusters when I changed the
old cool and warm bulbs a few weeks back. They were over a year old. It
could have been a coincidence though. I had something like this happen
about 2 years ago and it disappeared, on it's own, as quickly as it
appeared.
--

RM....
Zone 6. Middle TN USA
~~~~ }((((* ~~~ }{{{{(ö

On Dec 25, 5:26*pm, "Reel McKoi" wrote:
"Larry Blanchard" wrote in message

news
* Which is the right bulb in preventing red and green algae? *And are
they
guaranteed to work? *If one doesn't work do I have to keep buying and
throwing out one bulb after another? *I honestly never heard of a bulb
that
allowed aquarium plants to thrive but not algae.

There is no easy solution to algae. *If it's the flat type that grows on
the glass, I just scrape it off the front and leave it on the sides and
back. *If it's the hairy type that grows on the plants and the gravel, the
only solution I've found is manual removal. *As soon as you see algae on a
leaf, cut off that leaf. *I've sometimes removed as much as half of a
plant at one time. *They always grow back :-).

===============================
It's the velvety red (black) algae that covers and smothers the plants. *It
doesn't grow on one leaf or a few leaves but covers everything including the
glass and gravel. *I scrape it off the glass but can't get it off plants..
They'd be leafless. *Then there's the short soft green algae. *But there's
not too much of the green stuff. *It hit like gangbusters when I changed the
old cool and warm bulbs a few weeks back. They were over a year old. *It
could have been a coincidence though. *I had something like this happen
about 2 years ago and it disappeared, on it's own, as quickly as it
appeared.
--

RM....
Zone 6. *Middle TN USA
~~~~ *}((((* *~~~ * }{{{{(ö

The so called devils algae or black algae normally only covers plant
leaves or filter media..........it is usually a very dark green or
black in color algae. HP method I described in other pst wil kill this
stuff but the key is keeping it gone and thats gonna take good water
parameters, proper lights and sufficieint current flow.

If its a cyano type algae often called red slime or black slime then
an anti-biotic dose will knock this stuff out as its just like ther
blue green algae that is often seen with a new tank when it gets
cloudy looking. Maracin (sp?) will work as will Red Slime Remover,
which is normally sold for sal****er tanks but works well in
freshwater tanks too.............but the process of using an
antibiotic to knock it out will also affect yur bio filtration as well
so pull your media and place in another tank until your treatment is
over with........

Hair algae can be good up to a point anyhow, but control how much and
what you feed and that usually handles HA pretty well.........along
with proper lightin g scheduels etc. You may not be able to Eliminate"
algae, but its certainly possible to keep it under control and managed
so its not a problem, even if a bit of it is there. Not much overall
that can be done for the light algae that will grow on the glass
except routine clenaing of glass with a MAG float etc, as just room
lights can kick that stuff into growing........