floor protection

Or you could modify the stand.

Wayne Sallee



Patrick wrote on 1/10/2008 4:35 PM:
Bees wax is what I figured I'd use after a more protective coating is
applied. As you said anything I put there will really just hide any
potential damage causing incident. The stand is one of those cabinet
type stands (no legs, just solid wood all around), and there really is
no way to get under the stand as the stand is in contact with the floor
on all four sides. I guess I could always get a different stand, as the
tank will be completely broken down and moved (along with me &
everything else in the house) approximately a half hours drive from
where it is now.

Thanks Patrick


"Wayne Sallee" wrote in message
...
You could put any of those items under the stand without causing any
harm to the stank or aquarium, but how are they going to protect the
floor. If your stand is designed or modified so that you can see under
it, then you can rest assured that there is no damage being done, and
if water spills, you can get under the stand to wipe it up. Then the
only thing to worry about is where the stand touches the floor. For
that if there is some kind of sealer that would be safe for the floor
(after an extra protective coating is applied to the whole floor),
that could be put on the bottom of the stand where it comes in contact
with the floor, to seal up the space in between the wood and the floor
to keep water from seeping in between the wood and the floor. I bet
bees wax would work well for that.

Wayne Sallee



Patrick wrote on 1/9/2008 10:57 PM:
Thanks Wayne,

What you said about hiding any damage is one of the things I'm
worried about.

I kept thinking of maybe a cork type tile extending beyond the stand
dimensions - but then over time the tank will it sink into the cork -
probably not a good thing. Then I thought of a piece of Plexiglas,
but then I picture the Plexiglas cracking, also probably not a good
thing.

I'm always on top of any salt, and water spills, I think I may just
be paranoid about the floors, they've just been refinished. The extra
protective coating may be the best idea.

Thanks, Patrick


"Wayne Sallee" wrote in message
...
Anything you put down would hide water from your sight while it does
it's damage.

How about giving the whole floor an extra protective coating before
installing the aquarium, and making sure you have access under the
stand to clean up any salt. It's the salt that does more damage than
the water.

And then be careful not to do anything that encourages salt creep.
And take quick action when you do see salt creep.

Wayne Sallee



Patrick wrote on 1/9/2008 9:06 PM:
Does anyone have any suggestions or experience in placing
"something" under a tank stand to help protect hard wood floors? I
have a 75 gallon with the standard wood stand with cabinets. I am
thinking of putting something, but I don't know what yet, between
the stand and the floor, just to help protect the wood finish. I
know it's virtually impossible not to have occasional water spills
when doing maintenance, etc., which is why I'm thinking about
putting something down first. But I'm not sure it's a good idea
though (stand integrity?). Any thoughts?

Thanks, Patrick

On Jan 10, 9:10*am, "Big Habeeb (a.k.a. Mitch)"
wrote:
On Jan 10, 8:48*am, "Patrick" wrote:





Yeah, I'm still worried about the integrity of the stand if it sits on
anything but the floor. I'll give it some extra coats of protection and just
be even more careful than usual. Thanks everyone.

Patrick

That's a good one. I was thinking a pan like a water heater pan but that
wouldn't be very practical and impossible to purchase. It would hide
damage too like Wayne said. Probably a rubber mat in front of the
aquarium. I'm glad my house is almost all tile but only for that reason.

"Patrick" wrote in
news:bcwhj.6061$hS.2733@trnddc08:

Bees wax is what I figured I'd use after a more protective coating is
applied. As you said anything I put there will really just hide any
potential damage causing incident. The stand is one of those cabinet
type stands (no legs, just solid wood all around), and there really is
no way to get under the stand as the stand is in contact with the
floor on all four sides. I guess I could always get a different stand,
as the tank will be completely broken down and moved (along with me &
everything else in the house) approximately a half hours drive from
where it is now.

Thanks Patrick


You really don't want to put anything between the tank and the floor. What
I'd say you want to do is isolate whatever water hits the floor from the
wooden structure of the tank stand. When you find the right place for the
tank, run a wide bead of silicone caulk against it and the floor, and run
the bead both a half-inch up onto the wood of the stand (more of a flat
ribbon of caulk at that point, than it is a caulk bead), and a half-inch
over the floor itself, to form a caulk 'dam' a half-inch high. Do the same
thing on the inside of the stand frame, if the stand has an open-bottom
interior.
Then, just like a caulked tub, for 5 or 10 bucks, your stand will be
isolated from the water, no wicking under the frame, and the floor can
still be easily cleaned/mopped up. Silicone caulks can be peeled off of
finished wood with a minimal amount of residue to clean up, if you ever had
to move the tank. Just keep an eye out for if the tank gets bumped, as the
caulk bead could crack. Its a cheap/easy patch repair if you catch sight
of a crack.

DaveZ
Atom Weaver

Water can still get under the stand, as the floor of
the wood stand will let water through.

Another thing that could be done is to put a thin
layer of silicone on the bottom of the stand, and
let it cure, then place the sand on the floor, and
the silicone rubber will be pressed tightly against
the floor helping to seal back water. But the fact
that water will get through the stand floor/shelf,
still needs be realized. Thus modifying the stand so
that one can clean up under the stand would be
desirable.

Wayne Sallee



atomweaver wrote on 1/11/2008 1:15 PM:
"Patrick" wrote in
news:bcwhj.6061$hS.2733@trnddc08:

Bees wax is what I figured I'd use after a more protective coating is
applied. As you said anything I put there will really just hide any
potential damage causing incident. The stand is one of those cabinet
type stands (no legs, just solid wood all around), and there really is
no way to get under the stand as the stand is in contact with the
floor on all four sides. I guess I could always get a different stand,
as the tank will be completely broken down and moved (along with me &
everything else in the house) approximately a half hours drive from
where it is now.

Thanks Patrick


You really don't want to put anything between the tank and the floor. What
I'd say you want to do is isolate whatever water hits the floor from the
wooden structure of the tank stand. When you find the right place for the
tank, run a wide bead of silicone caulk against it and the floor, and run
the bead both a half-inch up onto the wood of the stand (more of a flat
ribbon of caulk at that point, than it is a caulk bead), and a half-inch
over the floor itself, to form a caulk 'dam' a half-inch high. Do the same
thing on the inside of the stand frame, if the stand has an open-bottom
interior.
Then, just like a caulked tub, for 5 or 10 bucks, your stand will be
isolated from the water, no wicking under the frame, and the floor can
still be easily cleaned/mopped up. Silicone caulks can be peeled off of
finished wood with a minimal amount of residue to clean up, if you ever had
to move the tank. Just keep an eye out for if the tank gets bumped, as the
caulk bead could crack. Its a cheap/easy patch repair if you catch sight
of a crack.

DaveZ
Atom Weaver

Dave,

Thank you for this suggestion. I really like the idea, and would never have
thought about doing this. The stand does have a "floor" under the cabinet,
so unless I do what Wayne suggested and modify it, maybe by removing the
stand "floor", I would only be able to seal the outside part of the stand,
but I think that would still give me a better measure of protection the wood
floor.

Thanks Patrick


atomweaver" wrote in message
...


You really don't want to put anything between the tank and the floor.
What
I'd say you want to do is isolate whatever water hits the floor from the
wooden structure of the tank stand. When you find the right place for the
tank, run a wide bead of silicone caulk against it and the floor, and run
the bead both a half-inch up onto the wood of the stand (more of a flat
ribbon of caulk at that point, than it is a caulk bead), and a half-inch
over the floor itself, to form a caulk 'dam' a half-inch high. Do the
same
thing on the inside of the stand frame, if the stand has an open-bottom
interior.
Then, just like a caulked tub, for 5 or 10 bucks, your stand will be
isolated from the water, no wicking under the frame, and the floor can
still be easily cleaned/mopped up. Silicone caulks can be peeled off of
finished wood with a minimal amount of residue to clean up, if you ever
had
to move the tank. Just keep an eye out for if the tank gets bumped, as
the
caulk bead could crack. Its a cheap/easy patch repair if you catch sight
of a crack.

DaveZ
Atom Weaver

Patrick wrote:
Does anyone have any suggestions or experience in placing "something"
under a tank stand to help protect hard wood floors?

How about this. Build a catch basin the same size as the inside of your cabinet.
What it's made of isn't as important as the fact that it's waterproof and can
hold at least 5 gallons of water. Place that on legs about 1" high. The rest of
the stand should be built around this. If I were building a stand, this would
form part of the bottom.

The 1" gap will prevent any water from seeping in between the bottom of the
basin and the floor. Assuming it's the same size as the stand, it's larger than
the tank, and should be able to catch anything serious.

George Patterson
Worry doesn't improve the future; it just ruins the present.

Then water would spill outside of the basin, and
seep under the basin.

Wayne Sallee



George Patterson wrote on 1/11/2008 10:51 PM:
Patrick wrote:
Does anyone have any suggestions or experience in placing "something"
under a tank stand to help protect hard wood floors?

How about this. Build a catch basin the same size as the inside of your
cabinet. What it's made of isn't as important as the fact that it's
waterproof and can hold at least 5 gallons of water. Place that on legs
about 1" high. The rest of the stand should be built around this. If I
were building a stand, this would form part of the bottom.

The 1" gap will prevent any water from seeping in between the bottom of
the basin and the floor. Assuming it's the same size as the stand, it's
larger than the tank, and should be able to catch anything serious.

George Patterson
Worry doesn't improve the future; it just ruins the present.

I would not remove the stand floor if it's high
enough above the house floor. If the bottom of the
stand looks like 4 2x4's on their side, and the
stand floor on top of that, then you could modify
the front 2x4 by cutting out an arch, so that you
have full access to under the stand.

Wayne Sallee



Patrick wrote on 1/11/2008 8:13 PM:
Dave,

Thank you for this suggestion. I really like the idea, and would never
have thought about doing this. The stand does have a "floor" under the
cabinet, so unless I do what Wayne suggested and modify it, maybe by
removing the stand "floor", I would only be able to seal the outside
part of the stand, but I think that would still give me a better measure
of protection the wood floor.

Thanks Patrick


atomweaver" wrote in message
...


You really don't want to put anything between the tank and the floor.
What
I'd say you want to do is isolate whatever water hits the floor from the
wooden structure of the tank stand. When you find the right place for
the
tank, run a wide bead of silicone caulk against it and the floor, and run
the bead both a half-inch up onto the wood of the stand (more of a flat
ribbon of caulk at that point, than it is a caulk bead), and a half-inch
over the floor itself, to form a caulk 'dam' a half-inch high. Do the
same
thing on the inside of the stand frame, if the stand has an open-bottom
interior.
Then, just like a caulked tub, for 5 or 10 bucks, your stand will be
isolated from the water, no wicking under the frame, and the floor can
still be easily cleaned/mopped up. Silicone caulks can be peeled off of
finished wood with a minimal amount of residue to clean up, if you
ever had
to move the tank. Just keep an eye out for if the tank gets bumped,
as the
caulk bead could crack. Its a cheap/easy patch repair if you catch sight
of a crack.

DaveZ
Atom Weaver

On Jan 10, 5:36*pm, "Big Habeeb (a.k.a. Mitch)"
wrote:
On Jan 10, 1:21*pm, "Big Habeeb (a.k.a. Mitch)"
wrote:



On Jan 10, 9:10*am, "Big Habeeb (a.k.a. Mitch)"
wrote:

On Jan 10, 8:48*am, "Patrick" wrote:

Yeah, I'm still worried about the integrity of the stand if it sits on
anything but the floor. I'll give it some extra coats of protection and just
be even more careful than usual. Thanks everyone.

Patrick

That's a good one. I was thinking a pan like a water heater pan but that
wouldn't be very practical and impossible to purchase. It would hide
damage too like Wayne said. Probably a rubber mat in front of the
aquarium. I'm glad my house is almost all tile but only for that reason.
Otherwise, I like solid wood floors. Tile is too hard.

jim

"jthread" wrote in message

...

"Patrick" wrote in message
news:4Jghj.5261$sH.4241@trnddc04...
Thanks Wayne,

What you said about hiding any damage is one of the things I'm worried
about.

I kept thinking of maybe a cork type tile extending beyond the stand
dimensions - but then over time the tank will it sink into the cork -
probably not a good thing. Then I thought of a piece of Plexiglas, but
then I picture the Plexiglas cracking, also probably not a good thing.

I'm always on top of any salt, and water spills, I think I may just be
paranoid about the floors, they've just been refinished. The extra
protective coating may be the best idea.

Thanks, Patrick- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Just get down like the dog that you really are and lap it up dude!
Floor protection, just get a big freaking condom, just like the one
you pull over yur head when *you do KurtG- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

"Wayne Sallee" wrote in message
...
I would not remove the stand floor if it's high enough above the house
floor. If the bottom of the stand looks like 4 2x4's on their side, and the
stand floor on top of that, then you could modify the front 2x4 by cutting
out an arch, so that you have full access to under the stand.

Wayne Sallee



Patrick wrote on 1/11/2008 8:13 PM:
Dave,

Thank you for this suggestion. I really like the idea, and would never
have thought about doing this. The stand does have a "floor" under the
cabinet, so unless I do what Wayne suggested and modify it, maybe by
removing the stand "floor", I would only be able to seal the outside part
of the stand, but I think that would still give me a better measure of
protection the wood floor.

Thanks Patrick


atomweaver" wrote in message
...


You really don't want to put anything between the tank and the floor.
What
I'd say you want to do is isolate whatever water hits the floor from the
wooden structure of the tank stand. When you find the right place for
the
tank, run a wide bead of silicone caulk against it and the floor, and
run
the bead both a half-inch up onto the wood of the stand (more of a flat
ribbon of caulk at that point, than it is a caulk bead), and a half-inch
over the floor itself, to form a caulk 'dam' a half-inch high. Do the
same
thing on the inside of the stand frame, if the stand has an open-bottom
interior.
Then, just like a caulked tub, for 5 or 10 bucks, your stand will be
isolated from the water, no wicking under the frame, and the floor can
still be easily cleaned/mopped up. Silicone caulks can be peeled off of
finished wood with a minimal amount of residue to clean up, if you ever
had
to move the tank. Just keep an eye out for if the tank gets bumped, as
the
caulk bead could crack. Its a cheap/easy patch repair if you catch
sight
of a crack.

DaveZ
Atom Weaver

put in a tiled area under the tank and extending out a bit. there is no 100%
way to prevent water damage to a wooden floor otherwise.