Goldfish staying and bottom of tank and not feeding

Hello everyone,
My daughter got a goldfish yesterday.It is sitting very syill at the bottom
of the tank and not feeding. I know that according to the FAQ that you
should ideally post before buying a fish but the deed is already done, and I
just want some advice on how to help the fish.
I have read on the net various reasons for this behaviour, from the type of
tap water in the area, to the water being too cold to poison.The first lot
of water I put in wasn't allowed to stand (I didn't know at the time) so I'm
going to change 50% today.If anybody could give me some advice I would be
very greatful.

http://weloveteaching.com/puregold/c...htm#essentials
THE ESSENTIALS for 2 GOLDFISH
20 GALLON TANK + STAND
FILTER Whisper #3 or Aquamaster 400
HEATER 100 Watt Visitherm
AIR PUMP Double gang
tubing (12feet)
2 big air stones
SIPHON (Python) with nylon sockie over the end
DECHLOR (if you use city water)
FOOD sinking type
SALT crystal solar type salt for water softeners, with no additives
THERMOMETER
TEST KITS for: ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH, hardness, salt
chlorine/chloramine, (American Pharmaceutical)

CYCLING
"THE CYCLE" refers to the establishment of good bacteria in the filter that takes
care of wastes. Cycling describes the time it takes for good bacteria (the
"biobugs") to get established in the filter. Biobugs convert the ammonia fish
produce into nitrates. Ammonia and nitrites are very toxic to fish, nitrates are not
as toxic to fish.

"THE CYCLE"
ammonia -------------------------- nitrite
----------------------nitrates-------------------------N2
bugs = nitrosomonas nitrobacter plants, algae,
water changes
anaerobic bacteria

When a tank is cycled, the ammonia and nitrite will be zero, the nitrates should be
kept lower than 20 ppm.

STAGES OF CYCLING A TANK
1. Start by checking the pH and hardness to make sure your water is within the
parameters for goldfish. Also check for ammonia, nitrites or nitrates. New tanks
must be "aged" with a brine (salt) solution in a tank overnight. Brine means enough
salt is added that no more will dissolve. An old tank can be bleached (1:10
dilution), followed by extensive rinsing, filled and left overnight with aeration
and some dechlor. Do not set up the tank in south windows or east or west windows
without drapes. Direct sunlight can really overheat the water.

2. The tank is filled with dechlored water, filters are rinsed, the heater (set to
75oF) and airstones are put in the tank, everything plugged into a power strip. 1
teaspoon of salt per 5 gallons of water is added. The water is aged for 24 hours.

3. Get the 2 fish. Follow directions for floating the bag and salt dipping the fish
(brief 30 second to 1 minute). Add 1 tablespoon of clean dirt (dirt where pesticides
havent been used) to a cup of the tank water, cap and shake it and pour this thru a
filter back into the tank. This will inoculate the filter with the good bacteria.
This can be repeated every couple of days. Feed the fish about 1/2 of normal during
the cycling period.

4. Every 24 hours after putting the fish in, test the water for ammonia and
nitrites. If either are greater than the first indication shown on the kit, change
as much water as necessary until there is only a hint of either showing. You do not
want your fish exposed to much ammonia or nitrites. This will further stress an
already stressed fish.
If there is no place to put an aging vat, then add the correct amount of dechlor to
the water and run the water in. Then check the water to make sure there is no
chlorine in the tank. When the nitrites show up, the cycle is 1/2 way there. Within
a day or two, the ammonia should drop to zero.
On the second and third days, add another 1 teaspoon of salt per 5 gallons. Test for
salt using the test kit. Replace salt as water changes are done. Testing for salt
prevents "salt creep". Salt lessens the toxicity of ammonia and nitrites.

5. After a week, start checking for nitrates and the appearance of algae. These
signal that the cycle is nearly complete. Water changes must be done to make sure
there are no nitrites. At this point, you can gradually increase feeding the fish to
normal levels.
The cycle is sensitive to medications, so it is better if only one fish is sick and
needs treatment to move the fish to a bucket and treat them there. See bucket to
bucket.

6. As nitrates increase and the feeding is normal, water should be tested to find out
how quickly after a partial water change it rises to 20 ppm. The water will then
need to have a partial water change.

On Sun, 26 Apr 2009 10:31:47 +0100, "Hoodoo" wrote:

Hello everyone,
My daughter got a goldfish yesterday.It is sitting very syill at the bottom
of the tank and not feeding. I know that according to the FAQ that you
should ideally post before buying a fish but the deed is already done, and I
just want some advice on how to help the fish.
I have read on the net various reasons for this behaviour, from the type of
tap water in the area, to the water being too cold to poison.The first lot
of water I put in wasn't allowed to stand (I didn't know at the time) so I'm
going to change 50% today.If anybody could give me some advice I would be
very greatful.