Algea Destroyer

Thanks Dave, sorry I haven't been around to answer all the advice, I was put
in the hospital to raise money for a common purpose -- the hospital... go
figure...

The pleco is definitely an algae eater, I think he would eat right through
the glass. However, strange thing, I have no live plants, I've washed the
gravel, and have 1 - 10 watt flourescent bulb in the hood in the 10 gallon
tank.

I'll try another change today and keep the lights for viewing only since the
tank is in a naturally well lit area anyway.

I'll get back with you great folks as to my progress.

'nutherBob
Down with needles!!

"Dave Millman" wrote in message
...
Bubba Joel wrote:

I would suggest that you buy a UV inline sterilizer. Relatively
inexpensive
and will destroy algae and parasites and bad bacteria and keep your tank
clean.

UV filters kill floating things, most notably green water algae and lots
of
parasites that have a free-floating stage.

They don't do squat for the algae on the original poster's glass, since
that's
not passing through the UV filter.

'nutherBob, if you are not growing plants in your cichlid tank, consider
using
less light or light for a shorter period every day. 1 watt of flourescent
light
per gallon won't encourage algae.

Some plecos are algae eaters (ancistrus in particular). Some are omnivors
or
carnivors. Find out what kind you have, and what it wants to eat.

"'nutherBob" wrote in message om...
I keep getting a lot of algea on my glass, even after faithfully and once a
week water changes, once a month complete water change and "scrub". I have
a plecky, and I was wondering using a algea destroying or treatment will
hurt the pleco in my cichlid tank.

'nutherBob

Here's an algae solution that was suggested by Axelrod in the 1950s
that I've had the opportunity to use a couple of times: Arrange your
airstones to be in one end of the aquarium, to help with oxygenation
by rotating the water. Then turn off the lights and cover the aquarium
with a dark blanket for three or four days. Without light, the algae
dies. This process causes the algae to give off a lot of carbon
dioxide, hence the airstone placement. In my experience, this has
always worked, and hasn't harmed any of the fish. It's OK to lift the
blanket from time to time for feedings.

Axelrod actually suggests taping dark paper to the walls of the tank,
but I think the blanket is much easier.

After you kill off the algae, you need to investigate why you have the
problem in the first place. It could be lights left on too long; the
aquarium could be too close to a sunny window; you may need to
increase the frequency of partials to lower nitrate.

--Mark


Mark Stone tractorlegs at msn dot kom
OSCAR Lovers! http://www.geocities.com/cichlidiot_2000/oscar.html
The ".Edu" meens i are smart.

On Wed, 03 Mar 2004 14:36:59 GMT, "'nutherBob"
wrote:


I'll try another change today and keep the lights for viewing only since the
tank is in a naturally well lit area anyway.

That's your problem right there. Natural light will make alge bloom
like there's no tomorrow.

I have a 80 gal and have had an alge bloom problem -forever-. Turns
out that at about 2:00 PM, the sun shines on the basement window,
through the vertical blinds, and lights up one corner of my tank. I
covered that area with a few pieces of blue backerboard, and presto,
perfectly clear water - and I leave my 30W & 25W flourescent tubes on
for 7 hrs a day.

Active ingredient in almost all anti-algae chemicals herbicide simazine. However, this is some type of control algae, has also been shown stunt the growth of young certain types of fish. Do a Google search for simazine, if you for more information. I tried again, not recommended.

The alive additive in about all anti-algae chemicals is the herbicide simazine. However, this alone controls assertive types of algae and has as well been apparent to achievement the advance of the adolescent of certain breed of fish. Do a Google seek for simazine if you want added information.