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#1
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Don't change the water and clean the filter at the same time; you are
re-starting the cycling process. Ideally only change half the filter media at a time, so that some bio-bugs remain. Have seen the same thing happen when I changed the water AND cleaned all the filter media; what happaned was power got turned off to the canister filter for over 24 hours, so all bugs probably dead, so had to kill off what's left, and changed some water to get rid of N build-up in the tank. Cheers, Poe "Victor M. Martinez" wrote in message ... I've been meaning to post here about the cloudiness that sets on my large tank after I make water changes and fertilize the plants. The small tank doesn't get it, just the big one. Yesterday I changed about 30% of the water and fertilized with Fluorish, Fluorish Iron, Fluorish Excel, plus I added some Freshwater Trace. Like clockwork, the water started turning cloudy about an hour after the water change. This morning it's cloudy, but it should start clearing this afternoon. I also cleaned the filter (Eheim), rinsing all the media in it. |
#2
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Poe Lim wrote:
Don't change the water and clean the filter at the same time; you are re-starting the cycling process. Ideally only change half the filter media Says who? That's not true if you are using a canister filter with biomedia that is handled properly. I don't change *any* biomedia. Like I said before, the water parameters were/are perfect (no ammonia, no nitrite), which is a sure sign the biofilter is workign properly. -- Victor M. Martinez http://www.che.utexas.edu/~martiv |
#3
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![]() "Victor M. Martinez" wrote in message ... Poe Lim wrote: Don't change the water and clean the filter at the same time; you are re-starting the cycling process. Ideally only change half the filter media Says who? That's not true if you are using a canister filter with biomedia that is handled properly. I don't change *any* biomedia. Like I said before, the water parameters were/are perfect (no ammonia, no nitrite), which is a sure sign the biofilter is workign properly. The cloudy water is a sign you have free floating bacteria (assuming it's a white cloudy appearance) that are multiplying because it has more food (ammonia & nitirites), because those in your canister is no longer able to handle the full load. As I said, I have seen that when I did a large water change and disinfected the (dead) media. The bio-media isn't the only place the bugs colonise; they also live in the sponges, filter floss etc, and perhaps in your case the balance is quite fine (as you said, only in the big tank). I also wonder what the reaction of Prime is like (I gather that's what you use); is there sufficient time for the ammonia released to latched onto by the free floating biobugs, and in the time immediately after the water change, the system is overloaded. Does anyone know if the ammonia released from the breakdown of chloramines, although converted to a non-harmful form for fish, is still availalble o the bugs and plants? I have to say though the chemical reaction theory is also plausible as your water is very alkaline. How do you feel about experimenting, and just changing one parameter at a time, and see what causes the problem? G Cheers, Poe |
#4
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![]() "Victor M. Martinez" wrote in message ... Poe Lim wrote: handle the full load. As I said, I have seen that when I did a large water change and disinfected the (dead) media. The bio-media isn't the only place What makes you think I disinfected anything? I don't wash my biomedia. Ever. change, the system is overloaded. Does anyone know if the ammonia released from the breakdown of chloramines, although converted to a non-harmful form for fish, is still availalble o the bugs and plants? All water conditioners, including Prime, that neutralize chloramines also take care of the clorine and the ammonia released. I have to say though the chemical reaction theory is also plausible as your water is very alkaline. My tank water is not alkaline, but the tap water is. How is this possible/being done? How do you feel about experimenting, and just changing one parameter at a time, and see what causes the problem? G I'll try that. If only I remembered to fertilize weekly instead of monthly. But my plants grow like weeds already, I don't want them to grow any more. ![]() -- Victor M. Martinez http://www.che.utexas.edu/~martiv |
#5
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Racf wrote:
My tank water is not alkaline, but the tap water is. How is this possible/being done? Normal metabolic processes in the tank reduce the pH of the water. I think the alkalinit of the tap water is at least in part produced by CO2, so it's easily removed by the plants. The water pH usually hovers around 6.8-7.0, while the tap water is around 9. -- Victor M. Martinez http://www.che.utexas.edu/~martiv |
#6
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All water conditioners, including Prime, that neutralize chloramines also
take care of the clorine and the ammonia released Last week I read a post on another group. ie a guy changed water had major death like 95% of things in tank, he threw out the old bottle of conditioner and used a new bottle then things worked as advertized. Might be a consideration. JR, |
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