![]() |
If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. You may have to register before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below. |
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#21
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
"Little Sccoby" wrote:
Do they normally like to run all the underground wire themselves? Almost assuredly. You may be able to save by doing the digging yourself. A pro may have a vibratory plow, which can put the cable in with out digging. The GFCI should go at the house part, so that this way, your protected if the cable is hit or breached, it will trip. There is special cable that is rated for burial underground, to handle both the heat, and soil exposure, moisture, and bugs. You may also want to put in a post or something else to attach the remote box to, if you want something other than a plain pipe, like a wood post. |
#22
|
|||
|
|||
![]() Nedra wrote: There is a much better way.... call an electrician! I can see you are a quick fixer ;-) ... not good to hook up your pond with nothing but extension cords. And Please don't wrap the cords with plastic. It holds in heat and could easily cause a fire. If you must use extenesion cords buy some dielectric grease from an auto parts store. Smear that all over the ends. It is water proof. I would like to see you post that you've thought about it .. and your going to hire an electrician. Nedra Nedra is right use an electrician and do it to code my 1cents worth if you bury the extension cord and somehow a fire startss your insuranc may not pay somtheing to consider I have seen that happen when I was a firefighter John Rutz Z5 New Mexico never miss a good oportunity to shut up see my pond at: http://www.fuerjefe.com |
#23
|
|||
|
|||
![]() Little Sccoby wrote: Actually, after reading a bunch of articles about installing ground fault interupters, I'm more confused than before so it looks like I will have to consult an electrician. I kinda thought there might be more to it than just trenching a thick extension cord (or other high grade electrical cord) to a GFCI recepticle so I am glad I asked. I never thought about the heat generated from plastic wrapped around the cords (especially since they would be buried underground). Good point. What type of fee could I expect to be charged? Also, do the electricians trench the electrical wire to the pond or is that something they would let us do (or a landscaper if needed)? Thanks again for all the help. I hope everything turns out. -Little Scooby the electician should do the trench too underground feeds are quite common nowadays John Rutz Z5 New Mexico never miss a good oportunity to shut up see my pond at: http://www.fuerjefe.com |
#24
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
scooby wrote $400 just for the electrical help?
Not just the help. The conduit, the wiring, the post, the box, the burying, contacting city, the permit, the inspection. It is all what your market charges. My husband is an electrical engineer and wanted someone who knows city codes, etc. (He can build you a safe nuclear reactor but he relys on electricans for work on our home.) The reason why I suggest this is you sounded a little wonky on the whole electrical business. Don't want to fool around with electricity if you don't have a clear understanding of it. With as many children, now teenagers, around our yard we felt that safety was our highest concern and cost wasn't an issue when you consider the consequences. I was the before and after-school care mom on our block so we're talking a lot of kids ;-) k30a |
#25
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
The pumps that I have seen with auto shutoff devices are all sump pumps.
They have the switch to turn them on automatically when the water in the sump comes up to a point, and cut off when it goes back down. Those pumps are not rated for continuous operation, and most of them are real energy hogs. You can buy the parts for a switch, a piece of threaded rod, a few nuts and a toilet bowl float. -- RichToyBox http://www.geocities.com/richtoybox/pondintro.html "Little Sccoby" wrote in message ... Speaking of shut-off devices based on water levels, do the pumps that have shutoff capabilities work very well? Or is it always better to use a separate shut-off device and not rely on the pumps with built in shut-off capabilities (especially when running multiple pumps in an array)? I guess what I mean is this: By the time the low water level activates the shut-off mechanism on the pump, is the pump already slightly (even very slightly) damaged in any way or is it just a normal proven method for shutting off a pump that has no side-effects whatsoever (or shorten lifespan of pump in any way)? (I keep hearing horror stories of people who let their pumps run dry). The reason I ask is because my pond will be teensy with wind blowing the fountains spray out of the pond on a constant basis (unless or even if I use a wind detection shut-off device with this setup) and the water level could reach shut-off levels on a daily or at least weekly basis (grass should be okay because it's all down hill or in a rocky area with good drainage). Is it kinda like with a PC? You could use an average powerstrip for your PC, or you could do the right thing and use a UPS that not only protects against electrical spikes but also has a battery backup to prevent your PC from shutting down hard in case the electricity goes out. I'm all for redundancy, but to a point. I would not run any PC without a UPS so I'm guessing I shouldn't just rely on the built in shutoff mechanisms built into certain pumps, but, as I'm slowly finding out, ponds and all the electrical devices that go with them (pumps, underwater lights, wind/water level shutoff devices, etc), are very far from the PC realm. Hopefully this week I should have some pictures of this crazy super pond project from heaven (I can hardly wait to hear the laughter of my attempts to get 3 pumps with fountain jets in this small 4x5 foot pond), but I must complete the project, even though it is going much slower than I had originally anticipated and has cost me a few extra dollars than I had accounted for. Hopefully it will be worth it in the long run. Once again, thanks for all the help. It has been not only fun but amusing as well. -Little Scooby "Little Sccoby" wrote in message ... Holy ****balls. Creating a pond is a lot of work. I thought of another device I could use though. Besides a wind detector like this one: http://www.smarthome.com/7196.html I could also use a water level safety shutoff device. Anyone ever use any before? It would just have to be able to turn off a normal AC switch when the water level reaches a low level in the pond. That way, even if the water does blow out of the pond during high winds, the pumps would be automatically shut off so they don't get burned out. -Little Scooby "~ jan JJsPond.us" wrote in message ... I say, "Go for it." When you figure it all out, let us know worked, and pictures please. ~ jan On Thu, 10 Jul 2003 19:54:25 -0500, "Little Sccoby" wrote: I'm thinking it is going to be very very close to very very very very close if it works. I always have the option to upgrade the pond size as the final tweak but I want to save that option as the last resort option. snip I'll just have to wait and see how it turns out I guess. Who knows. In 1 week I could be digging again, but I hope not... -Little Scooby See my ponds and filter design: http://users.owt.com/jjspond/ ~Keep 'em Wet!~ Tri-Cities WA Zone 7a To e-mail see website |
#26
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
I have both systems. One on the pump built-in is probably best for you, so
you don't have the large bobber in the water.... though as an artist you could probably disguise it to look like a boat or glue some fake silk aquarium plants to it. One on the pump will let your water go lower, the bobber can be set so it turns off at a point you prefer. Either way, both work. I got my mercury float switch from www.aquaticeco.com ~ jan On Thu, 17 Jul 2003 00:07:54 -0500, "Little Sccoby" wrote: Speaking of shut-off devices based on water levels, do the pumps that have shutoff capabilities work very well? Or is it always better to use a separate shut-off device and not rely on the pumps with built in shut-off capabilities (especially when running multiple pumps in an array)? I guess what I mean is this: By the time the low water level activates the shut-off mechanism on the pump, is the pump already slightly (even very slightly) damaged in any way or is it just a normal proven method for shutting off a pump that has no side-effects whatsoever (or shorten lifespan of pump in any way)? (I keep hearing horror stories of people who let their pumps run dry). See my ponds and filter design: http://users.owt.com/jjspond/ ~Keep 'em Wet!~ Tri-Cities WA Zone 7a To e-mail see website |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|
![]() |
||||
Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
Fish pond water kills all fish within 24 hours. | Timothy Tom | Goldfish | 61 | August 20th 03 07:50 AM |