reef lighting

OK i love my newdual 250watt 20k metal halide setup on my reef tank but the
brown algae that grew with my pc's grow ten times faster now.How to i limit
its production?more snails????
Thanks

I might be jumping the gun by posting a response to this considering that I
don't have my tank set up yet, but I've battled algae successfully before in
planted fresh water tanks. From what I've read, the same applies to salt
water tanks.

just to help out a tad as you have covered everything very well

What's the nitrate reading for your tank water? What's the phosphate reading
for your tank water?

same question

If you can control nitrates and phosphates (ie. algae nutrients), you should
be able to combat the algae problem. In fact, if you can keep the nitrate
levels low enough, then the phosphate levels won't even come in to play. If
your source water is high in nitrates and phosphates, consider using a
different source (distilled or RO/DI). If you have mechanical filtration on
the tank, you might need to clean or replace the filter media. The most
common source of an algae problem is overfeeding. The bacteria on your
substrate and rock will convert the ammonia from the break-down of fish
waste and uneaten food in to nitrates. Also, phosphates are present in
living organisms, and when you feed your fish, you're adding phosphates to
the tank water.

there are at least marine algae's that are phosphate limited, so phosphate cant be high
regardless of nitrate levels , neither can nitrates

The key is to keep nitrate levels low by, a) not over-feeding and b)
performing regular water changes with low-nitrate source water. I believe
you should try to keep the nitrate level as low as possible, and definitely
below 5ppm.

reef tanks can battle nitrates in other ways also,
skim better
add more LR
add DSB
add refugium or macro's to the tank

If you can't - for whatever reason - get the nitrate levels down, you could
buy chemicals that will kill off the algae. This isn't a good idea, and the
algae will just come back because the source of the problem hasn't been
remedied. There are also pouches that you can place in a filter, or directly
in the tank, that will absorb nitrates. One product like this that I tried
and had success with in fresh water tanks, before getting my nutrient
problem under control with other means, was Algone. It is safe for reef
tanks with fish, invertebrates, etc. The downside is that you need to
replace the pouches every week, the expense mounts and you STILL haven't

these just dont work in SW tanks, ive seen them work in FW tanks, it just doesnt happen in
SW tanks.
there is another simular product that has "apeared to work" for others but I wont recomend
it until more ppl say it works

fixed the source of the nutrients. The "coolest" method I've seen is to add
a refugium. This is a separate tank containing macroalgae and other
organisms (someone else chime in!).

your doing good on your own

Water from your display tank flows out
through an overflow, in to the refugium and is pumped back to your display
tank. The nitrates and phosphates are used up in the growth of life within
your refugium, and as part of your regular maintenance routine you harvest
out the excess growth. The benefits of the refugium go beyond this, but this
(from what I understand) is the key point with regard to algae control.



If you're interested in Algone, they have a web site at www.algone.com They
provide some good insight there on the sources of algae, but needless to say
the solution is always their product.

skip it see note above ^^^

I'd started with testing your source
water. If it's low in nitrates (keep in mind you want your tank below 5ppm,
so your source water should be much less) perform water changes and ensure
that you're not overfeeding. If the source water is high in nitrates,
consider a different source such as distilled or RO/DI.

reef tanks all but require RO/DI upgrade if you dont already use it nitrates can be
lowered well below 5ppm and its generally better for your livestock

(completely overstepping the limits of my knowledge... heh)

not so bad

Regards,

Dave.

If you're using mechanical filtration on the tank, you should clean the
media regularly. The nitrogen cycle will also

if your using mechanical filtration try removing it completely

--
Richard Reynolds

This is a bloom, and it occured because of your transition from PC to MH. It
will pass soon, just hang in there.

My 55g is going through a transition from VHO to MH + VHO (330w to 570w)
currently, and I've been ramping up the time the MH are on every couple of
days. After about 2 weeks or so, the lights will be on for the full duration.
So far, I seem to have avoided an algae bloom.

You can add more snails if you like, but realize when the bloom is gone, your
snails could go hungry. Try siphoning off what you don't like, clean your glass
daily, and be sure your sand is being stirred with hermits or a Fighting Conch.

Marc


Mooboy wrote:

OK i love my newdual 250watt 20k metal halide setup on my reef tank but the
brown algae that grew with my pc's grow ten times faster now.How to i limit
its production?more snails????
Thanks

--
Personal Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com/oanda/index.html
Business Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com
Marine Hobbyist: http://www.melevsreef.com

Im pretty sure your referring to Diatoms, they feed from Silicate present in
the water...

Test your tank and the water you use (for changes) for Silicates present...
if you use a good RODI water it should be free from Silicates otherwise you
are just replacing the algaes food source every time you do a waterchange!

In my new tanks i just leave the lights on with rock and pumps and skimmer..
No livestock or corals and let it kill itself by growing all over and it
then uses up its food source and dies...

Something like that anyway

W


"Mooboy" wrote in message ...
OK i love my newdual 250watt 20k metal halide setup on my reef tank but
the
brown algae that grew with my pc's grow ten times faster now.How to i
limit
its production?more snails????
Thanks

Try RowaPhos in your sump

Thats def the problem then.. silicates in your water

w


"Mooboy" wrote in message ...
thanks everyone,i use well water from my property and RO isnt an option
for
many reasons.My well water is always perfect even in PH but i dont know
about trace minerals and such.But with the halide and fans on the top it
evaporates 3-4 gallons a day so i wont go buy water to replace it,i will
have to use another solution as mentioned here,THANKS