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#11
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....in more ways than one
![]() --Cybil "Marc Levenson" wrote in message ... It fits you well. Marc Cybil wrote: You're funny dude. About as illiterate as Ric. Well, maybe not that illiterate ![]() The name... yeah, I always liked that movie. She was a [expletive] hottie. --Cybil -- Personal Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com/oanda/index.html Business Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com Marine Hobbyist: http://www.melevsreef.com |
#12
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Yep.
Marc Cybil wrote: ...in more ways than one ![]() --Cybil -- Personal Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com/oanda/index.html Business Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com Marine Hobbyist: http://www.melevsreef.com |
#13
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"Jim Reynolds" wrote in message news:o2xjb.792901$uu5.139648@sccrnsc04...
Can someone explain how a top off system works or point me to a site that explains the mechanics of the system ? Thanks, Jim Reynolds The other posters have explained it pretty succinctly. The only thing I have to add is a suggestion of how to implement one. I had a reef tank for about 3 years, and it did *really* well-inverts spawning, etc. To top it off, I purchased a float valve (all plastic, no metal at all) from a plumbing supply. I teed off of my RO filter, and ran the hose to the sump. Dead level all the time. Salinity never varied, never leaked or overfilled for 3 years. Cost a total of about$10.00, including the reducing fittings and hose. |
#14
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There are two key point.
Key 1: Drain pipe or Overflow level [locate in Main Tank] Key 2: Return pump or some kind of pump that deliever water back to Main Tank [Sump/Refuguium etc]. Key 2 job is to maintain constant level until the Sump / Refugium volume is either empty or pump can not deliever any water. Key 1 will return any extra water back to Sump so it will not get overflow unless there is a blockage. Note: Make sure your Main Tank can take extra water if there a problem. Note 2: Not recommend Top-Off but to manual add water from a resourvior or storage tank. Note 3: Auto-Shut may not work or can fail and the endless supply of water will continue flowing to the tank until overflow. Note 4: Call up Marc to come to your place to clean your floor when it get flood. He may make your floor "sparkling clean". CapFusion,... "Chimera" wrote in message m... Let me take a crack at this. The return pump/overflow system tries to keep the water level constant in the tank, and will do so unless there is not enough total water volume to "complete the circuit". Any evaporation (or leaks ) will therefore be seen as a drop in the sump level since the water level in the tank is constant. Adding water to the sump will not raise the tank level- it just raises the sump level. Hope this helps- (I also hope it's correct). |
#15
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#16
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I like my float switch....I really do. I even built a 20 gallon fresh
water reservoir. Just recently the float switch got stuck in the on position by some caulerpa in the sump. All I can say is it's a good thing the reservoir only had about 3 gallons of water in it. Not I don't keep more then 6 to 8 gallons in the reservoir. That means I have to fill the reservoir up every 3 to 4 days but at least I won't be waking up to a totally soaked carpet. Steve BTW - I know a Doctor that destroyed his Beverly Hills home having his tank hooked up to an RO unit 10 months later he is just now moving back in. During his 7 day vacation the RO unit sprung a leak. He doesn't even know how much water leaked. He said that the unit was installed on the second floor & he had a 90g tank under the house (just storing it) & it was full of water. "Raymond" wrote in message om... (thrugoodmarshall) wrote in message m... "Jim Reynolds" wrote in message news:o2xjb.792901$uu5.139648@sccrnsc04... Can someone explain how a top off system works or point me to a site that explains the mechanics of the system ? Thanks, Jim Reynolds The other posters have explained it pretty succinctly. The only thing I have to add is a suggestion of how to implement one. I had a reef tank for about 3 years, and it did *really* well-inverts spawning, etc. To top it off, I purchased a float valve (all plastic, no metal at all) from a plumbing supply. I teed off of my RO filter, and ran the hose to the sump. Dead level all the time. Salinity never varied, never leaked or overfilled for 3 years. Cost a total of about$10.00, including the reducing fittings and hose. I added my two cents on this subject in another thread so I guess I just as well add it here two. This will work well until the float valve fails. Then you have a unlimited supply of fresh water that will not stop until you find the failure. As long as this is quick your tank may survive. The float valves are fairly dependable. I have heard people claim in excess of five years and more with out problems. And I don't think they are lying or anything but I also know that it isn't a matter of if they will fail. It is a matter of when. |
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