blue betta

Nikki wrote:
"IDzine01" wrote in message
oups.com...
There is a difference between fin loss and fin rot but it isn't always
very obvious how to tell them apart. Fin rot is a bacterial infection
and often occurs due to poor water conditions. Bettas are extremely
susceptible to it and it's not uncommon for even seasoned veterans to
have to deal with it from time to time. General fin loss or tearing
(pin holes too) may occur if your betta snags his fins on something or
from flaring. Fin rot can often be identified by black or bloodied fin
tips. Often chunks of fins will just slough off. They are often
characteristically tattered at the ends as well. The signs of fin rot
may be less obvious with darker colored or red bettas.

http://www.nippyfish.net/finlossfinrot.html

Ok, let me give you a quick update, he (Mr. blue betta) is swimming a bit
today, I was surprised after yesterday, it has also made it a little easier
to see all the fins, it was hard when he was sitting at the bottom of the
tank. I think they are just pinholes, if you took the pinholes away his
tail/fin would look completely normal, no snags, rips, or anything along
those lines, just pinholes. I see what you are saying now (the difference
between rot/pinholes). Another good thing is this morning he took a few
pieces of food, I have had him for a week, and he was in a cup at the store,
so I don't know that he could of got snagged on anything, but the water in
the cup had a film on top, not sure from what, maybe that has something to
do with it.
He is not as active as the others, however he does not look like he might
die at any moment as he did yesterday.
We had been talking about ich, I have a question, I know you can not kill it
when its on the fish, the meds kill it when it falls off the fish and is in
the rocks, if I understand right you can kill ich with high temps, so when
it falls off the betta, and is in the rocks, could you not empty out the
tank and boil the rocks, which would kill it or at least lessen the time you
need to use the medication, is that right or not, I see where it would not
be reasonable to do this in a big tank with a lot of stuff in it, but in a
QT ???
Let me know if you have a minute
Thanks for the help Nikki

At 82F, a display tank with no fish is ich-free after about four days -
seven at the outside. The swimming parasites (tomites) die in a couple
of days without a fish host. You kill ich in a Q-tank by letting it dry
completely. I don't know about boiling - I've never read anything one
way or the other. I'd be more inclined to use 5% bleach, dechlorinate,
and dry everything.

Supposedly, one of the ways of treating ich without medicine is to
transfer the fish from tank to tank, moving them daily. As they are
shed the cysts are left behind, at the bottom of the tank. The
procedure is to remove all the fish to the first QT tank at 80F. After
a day, you move them to a second warmed QT and sterilize the first. The
next day, you move the fish to the clean tank and disinfect the other.
You're supposed to move the fish back and forth for seven days and then
they can go home.

I've never tried it because my QT tank is usually not big enough for all
the fish in my display tank. It also sounds stressful for both me and
the fish. And somehow you'd have to try to keep the main tank filter
alive with ammonia.

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