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On Sat, 12 Nov 2005 00:35:36 -0500, NetMax wrote:
The question is, would it sell. Would you buy one? Is it complete, anything missing? Well, some of it, like the changing lighting, sounds nice, but the whole thing reminds me of computerizing a model railroad - takes all the fun out of operating it :-). And with the number of heaters I've had die on me, I'd be really leery of building one into the canopy unless it was easily replaceable. In fact, that would apply to most of the components you've imagineered. |
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I'm going to make a prediction that the next major leap in aquarium
design will be the canopy. I've watched technologies evolve, filters, filter media, heaters, lighting technologies, feeding systems and water parameter related equipment. Occasionally some of these technologies have imbedded themselves into the canopy. For example, 8 years ago, an Italian aquarium manufacturer had an auto-feeder built into a canopy with T6 fluorescent lighting. They were a little ahead of their time. Marineland has a line of tanks with their filters built into the canopy, and the design has persisted, even with many drawbacks. The canopy of the future will resemble what we have today, but will be much bigger, possibly 8 to 12" thick. It will incorporate things like: 1. Filter system - integrated biowheel, and sponge media which would be serviced through a hatch in the canopy. - backwash capability into overflows (see para. 7. below) 2. Storage - nets, test kits etc 3. Heater - why use precious aquarium real-estate for an unsightly heater 4. Food storage - empty/mix all your dried fish foods, pellets, flakes, freeze-dried etc into a compartment which is sealed when the hatch is closed. - there is a screw-type feeder with rubber blades (to keep humidity away from the food) operated/programmed from a keypad (integrated into the canopy) - level indicator (proximity switch) provides visual indicator of low food levels (ie: by reversing light operation to get your attention) - filters would automatically turn off for 10 minutes during feeding 5. Light System - staged lighting, programmed from same keypad - dawn/dusk lights, small halogen making a spot light effect, with ripples shadowing the substrate, used to transition to/from nightfall and daylight main lighting - main lights (two CF groups, morning 1/2 on, mid-day all on, and evening 1/2 on again) - programmed variability (cloudy periods) to reduce algae (currently done with timers set to 1 hour off) - twilight lighting (typically red or actinic) not programmed, set manually, for those bottle of wine by the fire late evenings. 6. Ventilation & Cooling - all that lighting will require that the ballasts are in a separate vented area (separate from the air under the canopy) - stainless steel tubing (with cooling fins) replaces conventional hoses, allowing atmospheric cooling using a small fan triggered by a thermocouple. 7. Water/Atmospheric control - pH regulated through CO2 injected inside canopy (or skip to next item) - low pH amber/tannic appearance through black-water concentrate pellets, or processed/compressed leaf pellets - kH regulated through baking soda pellets - continuous monitoring of conductivity (TDS control) - plumbed directly into home's DWV and cold water supply line (for continuous water changes through a drip system) - thermocouple (replaces thermometer), to activate dynamic cooling (para.6) and reduce lighting to cool as required. (heater's thermocouple would be a separate unit in-line with heating elements). - backwash cycle which would pulse water in through the gravel, trapping mulm in screens located near overflow pipes 8. Power distribution - plug the canopy in and all peripherals connect to canopy's integrated GFI protected power bar. 9. Water Purification option - clear plastic bell fits on top of canopy (semi-integrated), housing various bog/terrestrial plants whose roots would strip out any remaining NO3 from non-planted tanks (silk plants would make a come back, but some people will always want real plants). 10. Live Food option - habitat section in canopy for growing small creatures (ie: white worms in earth, feeding off decay from mechanical filtration stage, or mysis shrimp hatchery etc). Hatchery occupants will randomly 'escape' into main tank to be eaten. Did I miss anything? Today, this equipment & electronics exist separately, much of it in high volume consumer goods, except for: a) the canopy itself (fairly straightforward mould with several options and expansion panels to include odd sized aquarium dimensions). b) the canopy horizontal filter (plastic moulds) utilizing twin (redundancy) generic powerheads c) the controller and fairly straightforward programming d) integration of all the components Alone, I could prototype this in about 6 years (it is that easy), so a group of people could probably get one into pre-production testing in 12 months, and into production, 6 months after that. The question is, would it sell. Would you buy one? Is it complete, anything missing? -- www.NetMax.tk |
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![]() "NetMax" wrote in message ... I'm going to make a prediction that the next major leap in aquarium design will be the canopy. I've watched technologies evolve, filters, filter media, heaters, lighting technologies, feeding systems and water parameter related equipment. Occasionally some of these technologies have imbedded themselves into the canopy. For example, 8 years ago, an Italian aquarium manufacturer had an auto-feeder built into a canopy with T6 fluorescent lighting. They were a little ahead of their time. Marineland has a line of tanks with their filters built into the canopy, and the design has persisted, even with many drawbacks. The canopy of the future will resemble what we have today, but will be much bigger, possibly 8 to 12" thick. It will incorporate things like: 1. Filter system - integrated biowheel, and sponge media which would be serviced through a hatch in the canopy. - backwash capability into overflows (see para. 7. below) 2. Storage - nets, test kits etc 3. Heater - why use precious aquarium real-estate for an unsightly heater 4. Food storage - empty/mix all your dried fish foods, pellets, flakes, freeze-dried etc into a compartment which is sealed when the hatch is closed. - there is a screw-type feeder with rubber blades (to keep humidity away from the food) operated/programmed from a keypad (integrated into the canopy) - level indicator (proximity switch) provides visual indicator of low food levels (ie: by reversing light operation to get your attention) - filters would automatically turn off for 10 minutes during feeding 5. Light System - staged lighting, programmed from same keypad - dawn/dusk lights, small halogen making a spot light effect, with ripples shadowing the substrate, used to transition to/from nightfall and daylight main lighting - main lights (two CF groups, morning 1/2 on, mid-day all on, and evening 1/2 on again) - programmed variability (cloudy periods) to reduce algae (currently done with timers set to 1 hour off) - twilight lighting (typically red or actinic) not programmed, set manually, for those bottle of wine by the fire late evenings. 6. Ventilation & Cooling - all that lighting will require that the ballasts are in a separate vented area (separate from the air under the canopy) - stainless steel tubing (with cooling fins) replaces conventional hoses, allowing atmospheric cooling using a small fan triggered by a thermocouple. 7. Water/Atmospheric control - pH regulated through CO2 injected inside canopy (or skip to next item) - low pH amber/tannic appearance through black-water concentrate pellets, or processed/compressed leaf pellets - kH regulated through baking soda pellets - continuous monitoring of conductivity (TDS control) - plumbed directly into home's DWV and cold water supply line (for continuous water changes through a drip system) - thermocouple (replaces thermometer), to activate dynamic cooling (para.6) and reduce lighting to cool as required. (heater's thermocouple would be a separate unit in-line with heating elements). - backwash cycle which would pulse water in through the gravel, trapping mulm in screens located near overflow pipes 8. Power distribution - plug the canopy in and all peripherals connect to canopy's integrated GFI protected power bar. 9. Water Purification option - clear plastic bell fits on top of canopy (semi-integrated), housing various bog/terrestrial plants whose roots would strip out any remaining NO3 from non-planted tanks (silk plants would make a come back, but some people will always want real plants). 10. Live Food option - habitat section in canopy for growing small creatures (ie: white worms in earth, feeding off decay from mechanical filtration stage, or mysis shrimp hatchery etc). Hatchery occupants will randomly 'escape' into main tank to be eaten. Did I miss anything? Today, this equipment & electronics exist separately, much of it in high volume consumer goods, except for: a) the canopy itself (fairly straightforward mould with several options and expansion panels to include odd sized aquarium dimensions). b) the canopy horizontal filter (plastic moulds) utilizing twin (redundancy) generic powerheads c) the controller and fairly straightforward programming d) integration of all the components Alone, I could prototype this in about 6 years (it is that easy), so a group of people could probably get one into pre-production testing in 12 months, and into production, 6 months after that. The question is, would it sell. Would you buy one? Is it complete, anything missing? -- www.NetMax.tk I would buy into this idea..particularly if the various components could be modular and individually selected. All of what you say is perfectly available now. In my situation, with severe space, weight, and maintenance issues an integrated, modular system would be excellent. |
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"NetMax" wrote
snipped The canopy of the future will resemble what we have today, but will be much bigger, possibly 8 to 12" thick. It will incorporate things like: snipped The question is, would it sell. Would you buy one? I wouldn't buy a foot thick canopy no. If anything I'd like canopies to get smaller and less obtrusive. -- Graham Ramsay Secretary Fair City Aquarist Society |
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"NetMax" wrote in message
... I'm going to make a prediction that the next major leap in aquarium design will be the canopy. I've watched technologies evolve, filters, filter media, heaters, lighting technologies, feeding systems and water parameter related equipment. Occasionally some of these technologies have imbedded themselves into the canopy. For example, 8 years ago, an Italian aquarium manufacturer had an auto-feeder built into a canopy with T6 fluorescent lighting. They were a little ahead of their time. Marineland has a line of tanks with their filters built into the canopy, and the design has persisted, even with many drawbacks. The canopy of the future will resemble what we have today, but will be much bigger, possibly 8 to 12" thick. It will incorporate things like: 1. Filter system - integrated biowheel, and sponge media which would be serviced through a hatch in the canopy. - backwash capability into overflows (see para. 7. below) 2. Storage - nets, test kits etc 3. Heater - why use precious aquarium real-estate for an unsightly heater 4. Food storage - empty/mix all your dried fish foods, pellets, flakes, freeze-dried etc into a compartment which is sealed when the hatch is closed. - there is a screw-type feeder with rubber blades (to keep humidity away from the food) operated/programmed from a keypad (integrated into the canopy) - level indicator (proximity switch) provides visual indicator of low food levels (ie: by reversing light operation to get your attention) - filters would automatically turn off for 10 minutes during feeding 5. Light System - staged lighting, programmed from same keypad - dawn/dusk lights, small halogen making a spot light effect, with ripples shadowing the substrate, used to transition to/from nightfall and daylight main lighting - main lights (two CF groups, morning 1/2 on, mid-day all on, and evening 1/2 on again) - programmed variability (cloudy periods) to reduce algae (currently done with timers set to 1 hour off) - twilight lighting (typically red or actinic) not programmed, set manually, for those bottle of wine by the fire late evenings. 6. Ventilation & Cooling - all that lighting will require that the ballasts are in a separate vented area (separate from the air under the canopy) - stainless steel tubing (with cooling fins) replaces conventional hoses, allowing atmospheric cooling using a small fan triggered by a thermocouple. 7. Water/Atmospheric control - pH regulated through CO2 injected inside canopy (or skip to next item) - low pH amber/tannic appearance through black-water concentrate pellets, or processed/compressed leaf pellets - kH regulated through baking soda pellets - continuous monitoring of conductivity (TDS control) - plumbed directly into home's DWV and cold water supply line (for continuous water changes through a drip system) - thermocouple (replaces thermometer), to activate dynamic cooling (para.6) and reduce lighting to cool as required. (heater's thermocouple would be a separate unit in-line with heating elements). - backwash cycle which would pulse water in through the gravel, trapping mulm in screens located near overflow pipes 8. Power distribution - plug the canopy in and all peripherals connect to canopy's integrated GFI protected power bar. 9. Water Purification option - clear plastic bell fits on top of canopy (semi-integrated), housing various bog/terrestrial plants whose roots would strip out any remaining NO3 from non-planted tanks (silk plants would make a come back, but some people will always want real plants). 10. Live Food option - habitat section in canopy for growing small creatures (ie: white worms in earth, feeding off decay from mechanical filtration stage, or mysis shrimp hatchery etc). Hatchery occupants will randomly 'escape' into main tank to be eaten. Did I miss anything? Today, this equipment & electronics exist separately, much of it in high volume consumer goods, except for: a) the canopy itself (fairly straightforward mould with several options and expansion panels to include odd sized aquarium dimensions). b) the canopy horizontal filter (plastic moulds) utilizing twin (redundancy) generic powerheads c) the controller and fairly straightforward programming d) integration of all the components Alone, I could prototype this in about 6 years (it is that easy), so a group of people could probably get one into pre-production testing in 12 months, and into production, 6 months after that. The question is, would it sell. Would you buy one? Is it complete, anything missing? -- www.NetMax.tk I would buy a canopy that included your items 1, 3, 5, 6, 8 but the other items either I don't need or use, or they would seem to make the unit too bulky to be self-contained (e.g., the food storage items). I *really* like the idea of the heater built into the canopy. BTW I do have heavily planted tanks but don't use CO2 injection and it seems to work just fine. Perhaps manufacturers will offer a line of canopies from basic (my needs) to complex. ![]() Gail |
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NetMax wrote:
I'm going to make a prediction that the next major leap in aquarium design will be the canopy. I've watched technologies evolve, filters, filter media, heaters, lighting technologies, feeding systems and water parameter related equipment. Occasionally some of these technologies have imbedded themselves into the canopy. For example, 8 years ago, an Italian aquarium manufacturer had an auto-feeder built into a canopy with T6 fluorescent lighting. They were a little ahead of their time. Marineland has a line of tanks with their filters built into the canopy, and the design has persisted, even with many drawbacks. The canopy of the future will resemble what we have today, but will be much bigger, possibly 8 to 12" thick. It will incorporate things like: 1. Filter system - integrated biowheel, and sponge media which would be serviced through a hatch in the canopy. - backwash capability into overflows (see para. 7. below) 2. Storage - nets, test kits etc 3. Heater - why use precious aquarium real-estate for an unsightly heater 4. Food storage - empty/mix all your dried fish foods, pellets, flakes, freeze-dried etc into a compartment which is sealed when the hatch is closed. - there is a screw-type feeder with rubber blades (to keep humidity away from the food) operated/programmed from a keypad (integrated into the canopy) - level indicator (proximity switch) provides visual indicator of low food levels (ie: by reversing light operation to get your attention) - filters would automatically turn off for 10 minutes during feeding 5. Light System - staged lighting, programmed from same keypad - dawn/dusk lights, small halogen making a spot light effect, with ripples shadowing the substrate, used to transition to/from nightfall and daylight main lighting - main lights (two CF groups, morning 1/2 on, mid-day all on, and evening 1/2 on again) - programmed variability (cloudy periods) to reduce algae (currently done with timers set to 1 hour off) - twilight lighting (typically red or actinic) not programmed, set manually, for those bottle of wine by the fire late evenings. 6. Ventilation & Cooling - all that lighting will require that the ballasts are in a separate vented area (separate from the air under the canopy) - stainless steel tubing (with cooling fins) replaces conventional hoses, allowing atmospheric cooling using a small fan triggered by a thermocouple. 7. Water/Atmospheric control - pH regulated through CO2 injected inside canopy (or skip to next item) - low pH amber/tannic appearance through black-water concentrate pellets, or processed/compressed leaf pellets - kH regulated through baking soda pellets - continuous monitoring of conductivity (TDS control) - plumbed directly into home's DWV and cold water supply line (for continuous water changes through a drip system) - thermocouple (replaces thermometer), to activate dynamic cooling (para.6) and reduce lighting to cool as required. (heater's thermocouple would be a separate unit in-line with heating elements). - backwash cycle which would pulse water in through the gravel, trapping mulm in screens located near overflow pipes 8. Power distribution - plug the canopy in and all peripherals connect to canopy's integrated GFI protected power bar. 9. Water Purification option - clear plastic bell fits on top of canopy (semi-integrated), housing various bog/terrestrial plants whose roots would strip out any remaining NO3 from non-planted tanks (silk plants would make a come back, but some people will always want real plants). 10. Live Food option - habitat section in canopy for growing small creatures (ie: white worms in earth, feeding off decay from mechanical filtration stage, or mysis shrimp hatchery etc). Hatchery occupants will randomly 'escape' into main tank to be eaten. Did I miss anything? Today, this equipment & electronics exist separately, much of it in high volume consumer goods, except for: a) the canopy itself (fairly straightforward mould with several options and expansion panels to include odd sized aquarium dimensions). b) the canopy horizontal filter (plastic moulds) utilizing twin (redundancy) generic powerheads c) the controller and fairly straightforward programming d) integration of all the components Alone, I could prototype this in about 6 years (it is that easy), so a group of people could probably get one into pre-production testing in 12 months, and into production, 6 months after that. The question is, would it sell. Would you buy one? Is it complete, anything missing? Sounds good but there is one thing that I would add. This summer, as some of you might remember, I came home from my holiday to face fish soup in my Community Tank. Most of my fish had died due to toxic water when the Fluval 304 failed to work (could have been for up to 2 weeks). Unfortunately, noone had noticed :-( Now, what I would like, and am researching implementing when I get the new tank, is a warning system that would send a text message to my mobile once certain thresholds are exceeded or drop too low. This would give so many of us peace of mind....and most certainly would have saved the lives of my fish while I was on holiday. I need to see what type of monitoring stuff is out there right now as to how much development work would need to be done - but I'm pretty sure it is possible to do. This could look at water flow, mechanical workings of the pump, temperature control, lighting levels and hopefully some essential diagnostic water tests. Not only could it warn when things are becoming critical it could also give trend information - say for example if temperatures fluctuate greatly over a given time scale, or if the heat distribution is not even.....all sorts of possibilites - I think this is going to be a fun project :-) Gill |
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Lighting alone is pretty expensive. Sounds like it would be very expensive
to make a hood with all these features. I could easily see it costing way more than the tank it would go on. I know I am always looking for a deal, I doubt I would buy something that was more expensive than the alternatives. If you're aiming for the high end crowd, perhaps they use canister filters etc that generally go below the tank. There appears to be a lot of complicated stuff on your list, you would need a lot of customer support that your competitors might not. I would guess you'd make it for larger aquariums, my guess is the larger you go the more non uniform the sizes of the aquariums will be. Odd sizes, bow front, hexagon? I know the gap on the aquaclear 70 filter I bought was too small to fit over the rim on my 75 gallon aquarium. Will aquarium dimensions be consistent enough for you to market something that works well enough with everything to mass produce. There's probably about 20 different sizes of aquariums at petsmart and most of them have a specific canopy. My guess is you'd have to sell it as a combo with specific aquariums, or get stores to do so. It seems you have two items devoted to food storage and automated feeding. I would guess most aquarium owners would enjoy feeding the fish themselves. And have the fish get excited when they come up to the tank. I would also rather leave my food in the container it came in anyway. Though I suppose I do not buy food in bulk. What are the reasons heaters and filters are not integrated today? It seems like a good idea, do heater elements burn out much more quickly than the lifespan of your typical filter. Why not make a hob filter with space for a heater component if that's the obstacle. I didn't see an air pump on your list. "NetMax" wrote in message ... I'm going to make a prediction that the next major leap in aquarium design will be the canopy. I've watched technologies evolve, filters, filter media, heaters, lighting technologies, feeding systems and water parameter related equipment. Occasionally some of these technologies have imbedded themselves into the canopy. For example, 8 years ago, an Italian aquarium manufacturer had an auto-feeder built into a canopy with T6 fluorescent lighting. They were a little ahead of their time. Marineland has a line of tanks with their filters built into the canopy, and the design has persisted, even with many drawbacks. The canopy of the future will resemble what we have today, but will be much bigger, possibly 8 to 12" thick. It will incorporate things like: 1. Filter system - integrated biowheel, and sponge media which would be serviced through a hatch in the canopy. - backwash capability into overflows (see para. 7. below) 2. Storage - nets, test kits etc 3. Heater - why use precious aquarium real-estate for an unsightly heater 4. Food storage - empty/mix all your dried fish foods, pellets, flakes, freeze-dried etc into a compartment which is sealed when the hatch is closed. - there is a screw-type feeder with rubber blades (to keep humidity away from the food) operated/programmed from a keypad (integrated into the canopy) - level indicator (proximity switch) provides visual indicator of low food levels (ie: by reversing light operation to get your attention) - filters would automatically turn off for 10 minutes during feeding 5. Light System - staged lighting, programmed from same keypad - dawn/dusk lights, small halogen making a spot light effect, with ripples shadowing the substrate, used to transition to/from nightfall and daylight main lighting - main lights (two CF groups, morning 1/2 on, mid-day all on, and evening 1/2 on again) - programmed variability (cloudy periods) to reduce algae (currently done with timers set to 1 hour off) - twilight lighting (typically red or actinic) not programmed, set manually, for those bottle of wine by the fire late evenings. 6. Ventilation & Cooling - all that lighting will require that the ballasts are in a separate vented area (separate from the air under the canopy) - stainless steel tubing (with cooling fins) replaces conventional hoses, allowing atmospheric cooling using a small fan triggered by a thermocouple. 7. Water/Atmospheric control - pH regulated through CO2 injected inside canopy (or skip to next item) - low pH amber/tannic appearance through black-water concentrate pellets, or processed/compressed leaf pellets - kH regulated through baking soda pellets - continuous monitoring of conductivity (TDS control) - plumbed directly into home's DWV and cold water supply line (for continuous water changes through a drip system) - thermocouple (replaces thermometer), to activate dynamic cooling (para.6) and reduce lighting to cool as required. (heater's thermocouple would be a separate unit in-line with heating elements). - backwash cycle which would pulse water in through the gravel, trapping mulm in screens located near overflow pipes 8. Power distribution - plug the canopy in and all peripherals connect to canopy's integrated GFI protected power bar. 9. Water Purification option - clear plastic bell fits on top of canopy (semi-integrated), housing various bog/terrestrial plants whose roots would strip out any remaining NO3 from non-planted tanks (silk plants would make a come back, but some people will always want real plants). 10. Live Food option - habitat section in canopy for growing small creatures (ie: white worms in earth, feeding off decay from mechanical filtration stage, or mysis shrimp hatchery etc). Hatchery occupants will randomly 'escape' into main tank to be eaten. Did I miss anything? Today, this equipment & electronics exist separately, much of it in high volume consumer goods, except for: a) the canopy itself (fairly straightforward mould with several options and expansion panels to include odd sized aquarium dimensions). b) the canopy horizontal filter (plastic moulds) utilizing twin (redundancy) generic powerheads c) the controller and fairly straightforward programming d) integration of all the components Alone, I could prototype this in about 6 years (it is that easy), so a group of people could probably get one into pre-production testing in 12 months, and into production, 6 months after that. The question is, would it sell. Would you buy one? Is it complete, anything missing? -- www.NetMax.tk |
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I think the temperature stuff would be no problem - electronic controls
are already available specifically for fish tanks and I would think one of them will plug into your computer for the text messaging part of things. I'm sure there's also non-fish-specific equipment that will do this. I've seen electronic pH meters as well. For lighting, I'd bet there's something, but the easiest would be to have something which senses a loss of power.... But then, how's it gonna send you a message with no power? Perhaps program the UPS software on your computer to send the text message when the UPS kicks in (and again when it starts up again) - then you'd know your house lost power. (This would require an "always on" internet connection - make sure you've got good firewalls and anti-virus software in place.) Don't look for stuff made for aquariums - it's not all gonna exist - it's too expensive - look for stuff made for labs, plants and similar industrial application - then pretty much everything will exist (for a price). If you have specific questions, I'd be willing to run a few past our metrology department (I work in a non-clinical testing lab - in IT). IMO, knowing if the power goes out, having redundant filters and redundant heating would take care of the biggest concerns. Liz PS: Will post a separate reply to NetMax's idea later... |
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"Larry Blanchard" wrote in message
news ![]() On Sat, 12 Nov 2005 00:35:36 -0500, NetMax wrote: The question is, would it sell. Would you buy one? Is it complete, anything missing? Well, some of it, like the changing lighting, sounds nice, but the whole thing reminds me of computerizing a model railroad - takes all the fun out of operating it :-). That's very true. So automate the bad and keep the good, but that balance differs by everyone's definition of good or bad. I'm perfectly happy to never clean filters or do the daily feeding, as long as I get to give the frozen food treats. Gravel vacuuming holds no interest, but I don't mind cleaning a bit of algae and pruning live plants. And with the number of heaters I've had die on me, I'd be really leery of building one into the canopy unless it was easily replaceable. In fact, that would apply to most of the components you've imagineered. I'm also a big fan of redundancy and the use of commonly available components. I imagine someone could make a fortune selling proprietary heaters to fit this canopy, but a proper design would be to have 2 cavities where standard submersible heaters were installed. A small LED indicator on the canopy could be optionally used to indicate operation (I like very visual indicators), and the heater's current usage (amperage) could be monitored (through the GFI circuit) so a no-current condition (heater failure) could be flagged to the user. thanks for the feedback -- www.NetMax.tk |
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"Graham Ramsay" wrote in message
... "NetMax" wrote snipped The canopy of the future will resemble what we have today, but will be much bigger, possibly 8 to 12" thick. It will incorporate things like: snipped The question is, would it sell. Would you buy one? I wouldn't buy a foot thick canopy no. If anything I'd like canopies to get smaller and less obtrusive. -- Graham Ramsay Secretary Fair City Aquarist Society Understood. It would be a bit of a paradyne shift. There is some consumer demand to integrate terrestrial and aquatic flora & fauna, in the push for more realistic slices of nature in our livingroom. Along these lines, very tall sheets of glass could be used, such that a 48" tall aquarium would only be filled halfway with water, leaving the upper 24" for small shelves (rock appearance) for bog plants, water elements (small water fall), flowering aquatic plants (some need a lot of headspace above the water), and terrestrial critters (some insects, amphibians, reptiles etc as space allowed). If this sounds attractive, there are many drawbacks i) the glass thickness cannot be reduced for the upper portion (manufacturing constraint) making a very heavy and expensive structure, ii) maintenance access is horrific (our reach is only about 24" to reach the bottom of the tank), and the upper terrestrial portion of the tank would tend to have condensation negatively affecting our view. The work around is a bit of a hybrid on the idea, by integrating some of the nicer aspects into a canopy. This allows less expensive materials for the terrestrial portion, better access (canopy sections open to more easily reach the bottom of the tank) and the use of plastics which would promote less condensation obscuring our vision. The canopy becomes another biotope, and hides all the mechanics to support both terrestrial and aquatic biotopes. It's just food for thought ![]() -- www.NetMax.tk |
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