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![]() "Fred Fisher" wrote in message m... "Richard Reynolds" wrote in message news:urCqc.26654$Md.10193@lakeread05... My levels seem to be fine so what are they ??? A refugium, at least the way I have it, is another tank that sits in the stand next to my wet dry filter. Basically, it holds my caulerpa and sand/mud. This is good for nutrient export which keeps my nitrates down. Other people might use it as this AND keeping little critters in there as well. On a different message board, I've seen lots of people keeping mantis shrimp in there. It all depends on how you want to use it. Mine is just sand and the caulerpa, as far as I know ![]() also use Rubbermaid bins as refugiums as well, TONS of people use this. I just happened to use a tank because it was laying around. HTH That is fine. I keep all my trouble maker in there too. Maybe I should call it a prison tank instead. CapFusion,... |
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My water levels are as follows:
pH: 8.2 Ammonia: 0 Nitrite: 0 Nitrate: 0 Phosphate: 0.1 Hydrometer: 1.023 ALK: Normal That is all I have tests for. I had my tank water tested for copper. I was told it was not an issue. Should I be testing for anything else? I do about a 7 galllon water changes about 1/month. David wrote: How D, I have a 75 gal. With about 50+lbs live rock, Plenum, and about 75lbs of live sand. I have a Red Sea Prizm Protein Skimmer and a wet/dry filter. My levels seem to be fine but skunk cleaner shrimp and hermit crabs keep dying. Snails, soft corrals, and fish are fine. The wet/dry is empty and it used mostly for aeration and water movement. This tank has been up for about 7 mos. My question: should I be adding the "blue balls" to the wet/dry? Or use something like a true sump or refugium? Will this help with my problem? |
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questions
pH: 8.2 how did you test it? which kit or probe? Nitrate: 0 also which kit? Hydrometer: 1.023 you might consider upping this some, though thats probibly not important to the major concern ALK: Normal get a real kit or have the LFS test it using a real kit come back with a number normal could be soooo many things That is all I have tests for. I had my tank water tested for copper. I was told it was not an issue. Should I be testing for anything else? I do about a 7 galllon water changes about 1/month. why did you have it tested for copper, who tested it??? reasons I ask is IF the tank was previously used you wont be able to measure the copper, but itll still kill things. My question: should I be adding the "blue balls" to the wet/dry? Or use something like a true sump or refugium? Will this help with my problem? no blue balls ![]() without the bio balls ![]() ![]() -- Richard Reynolds |
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Richard Reynolds wrote:
questions pH: 8.2 how did you test it? which kit or probe? Tested with Aquarium Pharmaceuticals, Inc. High Range pH Test Kit. Nitrate: 0 also which kit? Tested with Red Sea Reef Lab test kit. Hydrometer: 1.023 you might consider upping this some, though thats probibly not important to the major concern to what? ALK: Normal get a real kit or have the LFS test it using a real kit come back with a number normal could be soooo many things What is LFS? What "real" kit would you recommend? That is all I have tests for. I had my tank water tested for copper. I was told it was not an issue. Should I be testing for anything else? I do about a 7 galllon water changes about 1/month. why did you have it tested for copper, Because of dieing Anemone, cleaner shrimp, and hermit crabs. who tested it??? Local Pet store. reasons I ask is IF the tank was previously used you wont be able to measure the copper, but itll still kill things. Tank was converted from freshwater to sal****er by myself. My question: should I be adding the "blue balls" to the wet/dry? Or use something like a true sump or refugium? Will this help with my problem? no blue balls ![]() without the bio balls ![]() ![]() |
#5
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pH: 8.2
how did you test it? which kit or probe? Tested with Aquarium Pharmaceuticals, Inc. High Range pH Test Kit. ok could be better but wont worry its more likely not the problem. Nitrate: 0 also which kit? Tested with Red Sea Reef Lab test kit. not ok, you need something other than redsea, the salifert and seachem kits seem reliable IME there are others but redsea isnt a good one. you should check into this AFTER you respond about copper below. Hydrometer: 1.023 you might consider upping this some, though thats probibly not important to the major concern to what? fix whats broken first then up it to between 1.024 and 1.026 ALK: Normal get a real kit or have the LFS test it using a real kit come back with a number normal could be soooo many things What is LFS? What "real" kit would you recommend? sorry LFS == local fish store really ive had close enough results out of all of the ones that give you a number, the "ok" "ideal" "safe" ..... readings are not apropreate why did you have it tested for copper, Because of dieing Anemone, cleaner shrimp, and hermit crabs. who tested it??? good enough just needed the connection Local Pet store. ok. reasons I ask is IF the tank was previously used you wont be able to measure the copper, but itll still kill things. Tank was converted from freshwater to sal****er by myself. did you use *ANY* copper in that tank, and i mean *ANY* at all ever, if so you cant use it for SW inverts. and this result is why. the best hobby kit ive seen reads to .1ppm the single source I found in 2 seconds shows copper toxic at .01ppm(there are better references and I know that number is real low.) if you have used copper in this tank you do not need to look any further for problems. if you didnt use copper then get to the LFS and get the nitrates checked with a kit, that gives you a number, and NOT one that uses a plastic strip and color changing pads ![]() use better kits my lfs charges $1 each test with 4 tests minimum -- Richard Reynolds |
#6
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Richard Reynolds wrote:
pH: 8.2 how did you test it? which kit or probe? Tested with Aquarium Pharmaceuticals, Inc. High Range pH Test Kit. ok could be better but wont worry its more likely not the problem. Nitrate: 0 also which kit? Tested with Red Sea Reef Lab test kit. not ok, you need something other than redsea, the salifert and seachem kits seem reliable IME there are others but redsea isnt a good one. you should check into this AFTER you respond about copper below. Hydrometer: 1.023 you might consider upping this some, though thats probibly not important to the major concern to what? fix whats broken first then up it to between 1.024 and 1.026 ALK: Normal get a real kit or have the LFS test it using a real kit come back with a number normal could be soooo many things What is LFS? What "real" kit would you recommend? sorry LFS == local fish store really ive had close enough results out of all of the ones that give you a number, the "ok" "ideal" "safe" ..... readings are not apropreate why did you have it tested for copper, Because of dieing Anemone, cleaner shrimp, and hermit crabs. who tested it??? good enough just needed the connection Local Pet store. ok. reasons I ask is IF the tank was previously used you wont be able to measure the copper, but itll still kill things. Tank was converted from freshwater to sal****er by myself. did you use *ANY* copper in that tank, and i mean *ANY* at all ever, if so you cant use it for SW inverts. and this result is why. the best hobby kit ive seen reads to .1ppm the single source I found in 2 seconds shows copper toxic at .01ppm(there are better references and I know that number is real low.) if you have used copper in this tank you do not need to look any further for problems. if you didnt use copper then get to the LFS and get the nitrates checked with a kit, that gives you a number, and NOT one that uses a plastic strip and color changing pads ![]() use better kits my lfs charges $1 each test with 4 tests minimum I never used any copper in this tank that I am aware of. I used to use lead weights for plants when it was a fresh water tank. That totally messed up the fresh water tank and once removed the tank returned to normal. As stated before, I did have the water tested at LFS and he told me there was no copper in the water. So you think I need better test kits? Could the problem be from a deficiency instead of a toxic? I currently use as additives: 2 1/2 tbs 2 x/week SeaChem Reef Plus, Reef Complete and Reef Calcium. To each gallon of water I add due to evaporation (every 2 days) on weeks 2 & 4 I add 1tbs Reef advantage and week 3 1tbs reef builder. I do admit I was slacking for about 2 months. - thanks. |
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