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Wet/Dry advice needed



 
 
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  #1  
Old May 20th 04, 07:17 PM
CapFusion
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Default Wet/Dry advice needed


"Fred Fisher" wrote in message
m...
"Richard Reynolds" wrote in message

news:urCqc.26654$Md.10193@lakeread05...
My levels seem to be fine

so what are they ???


A refugium, at least the way I have it, is another tank that sits in
the stand next to my wet dry filter. Basically, it holds my caulerpa
and sand/mud. This is good for nutrient export which keeps my nitrates
down. Other people might use it as this AND keeping little critters in
there as well. On a different message board, I've seen lots of people
keeping mantis shrimp in there. It all depends on how you want to use
it. Mine is just sand and the caulerpa, as far as I know You can
also use Rubbermaid bins as refugiums as well, TONS of people use
this. I just happened to use a tank because it was laying around. HTH


That is fine.
I keep all my trouble maker in there too. Maybe I should call it a prison
tank instead.

CapFusion,...


  #2  
Old May 25th 04, 09:20 PM
David
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Default Wet/Dry advice needed

My water levels are as follows:
pH: 8.2
Ammonia: 0
Nitrite: 0
Nitrate: 0
Phosphate: 0.1
Hydrometer: 1.023
ALK: Normal

That is all I have tests for. I had my tank water tested for copper. I
was told it was not an issue. Should I be testing for anything else?
I do about a 7 galllon water changes about 1/month.



David wrote:
How D,

I have a 75 gal. With about 50+lbs live rock, Plenum, and about 75lbs of
live sand. I have a Red Sea Prizm Protein Skimmer and a wet/dry filter.
My levels seem to be fine but skunk cleaner shrimp and hermit crabs keep
dying. Snails, soft corrals, and fish are fine. The wet/dry is empty
and it used mostly for aeration and water movement. This tank has been
up for about 7 mos.
My question: should I be adding the "blue balls" to the wet/dry? Or use
something like a true sump or refugium? Will this help with my problem?

  #3  
Old May 26th 04, 01:26 AM
Richard Reynolds
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Default Wet/Dry advice needed

questions

pH: 8.2

how did you test it? which kit or probe?

Nitrate: 0

also which kit?

Hydrometer: 1.023


you might consider upping this some, though thats probibly not important to the major
concern

ALK: Normal

get a real kit or have the LFS test it using a real kit come back with a number normal
could be soooo many things

That is all I have tests for. I had my tank water tested for copper. I
was told it was not an issue. Should I be testing for anything else?
I do about a 7 galllon water changes about 1/month.



why did you have it tested for copper, who tested it??? reasons I ask is IF the tank was
previously used you wont be able to measure the copper, but itll still kill things.

My question: should I be adding the "blue balls" to the wet/dry? Or use
something like a true sump or refugium? Will this help with my problem?

no blue balls you probibly have a true sump already as most true sumps are wetdrys
without the bio balls its probibly not gona help but it wont hurt.

--
Richard Reynolds






  #4  
Old May 26th 04, 03:10 AM
David
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Default Wet/Dry advice needed

Richard Reynolds wrote:

questions


pH: 8.2


how did you test it? which kit or probe?

Tested with Aquarium Pharmaceuticals, Inc. High Range pH Test Kit.


Nitrate: 0


also which kit?

Tested with Red Sea Reef Lab test kit.


Hydrometer: 1.023



you might consider upping this some, though thats probibly not important to the major
concern

to what?


ALK: Normal


get a real kit or have the LFS test it using a real kit come back with a number normal
could be soooo many things

What is LFS? What "real" kit would you recommend?


That is all I have tests for. I had my tank water tested for copper. I
was told it was not an issue. Should I be testing for anything else?
I do about a 7 galllon water changes about 1/month.




why did you have it tested for copper,

Because of dieing Anemone, cleaner shrimp, and hermit crabs.
who tested it???
Local Pet store.
reasons I ask is IF the tank was
previously used you wont be able to measure the copper, but itll still kill things.

Tank was converted from freshwater to sal****er by myself.


My question: should I be adding the "blue balls" to the wet/dry? Or use
something like a true sump or refugium? Will this help with my problem?


no blue balls you probibly have a true sump already as most true sumps are wetdrys
without the bio balls its probibly not gona help but it wont hurt.

  #5  
Old May 26th 04, 08:38 AM
Richard Reynolds
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Default Wet/Dry advice needed

pH: 8.2
how did you test it? which kit or probe?

Tested with Aquarium Pharmaceuticals, Inc. High Range pH Test Kit.


ok could be better but wont worry its more likely not the problem.

Nitrate: 0

also which kit?

Tested with Red Sea Reef Lab test kit.


not ok, you need something other than redsea, the salifert and seachem kits seem reliable
IME there are others but redsea isnt a good one. you should check into this AFTER you
respond about copper below.

Hydrometer: 1.023

you might consider upping this some, though thats probibly not important to the major
concern

to what?


fix whats broken first then up it to between 1.024 and 1.026

ALK: Normal

get a real kit or have the LFS test it using a real kit come back with a number normal
could be soooo many things

What is LFS? What "real" kit would you recommend?


sorry LFS == local fish store
really ive had close enough results out of all of the ones that give you a number, the
"ok" "ideal" "safe" ..... readings are not apropreate

why did you have it tested for copper,

Because of dieing Anemone, cleaner shrimp, and hermit crabs.
who tested it???

good enough just needed the connection

Local Pet store.

ok.

reasons I ask is IF the tank was
previously used you wont be able to measure the copper, but itll still kill things.

Tank was converted from freshwater to sal****er by myself.


did you use *ANY* copper in that tank, and i mean *ANY* at all ever, if so you cant use it
for SW inverts. and this result is why. the best hobby kit ive seen reads to .1ppm the
single source I found in 2 seconds shows copper toxic at .01ppm(there are better
references and I know that number is real low.) if you have used copper in this tank you
do not need to look any further for problems. if you didnt use copper then get to the LFS
and get the nitrates checked with a kit, that gives you a number, and NOT one that uses a
plastic strip and color changing pads IME the free tests use the strips and the $ ones
use better kits my lfs charges $1 each test with 4 tests minimum

--
Richard Reynolds






  #6  
Old May 28th 04, 03:19 AM
David
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Posts: n/a
Default Wet/Dry advice needed

Richard Reynolds wrote:
pH: 8.2

how did you test it? which kit or probe?


Tested with Aquarium Pharmaceuticals, Inc. High Range pH Test Kit.



ok could be better but wont worry its more likely not the problem.


Nitrate: 0

also which kit?


Tested with Red Sea Reef Lab test kit.



not ok, you need something other than redsea, the salifert and seachem kits seem reliable
IME there are others but redsea isnt a good one. you should check into this AFTER you
respond about copper below.


Hydrometer: 1.023

you might consider upping this some, though thats probibly not important to the major
concern


to what?



fix whats broken first then up it to between 1.024 and 1.026


ALK: Normal

get a real kit or have the LFS test it using a real kit come back with a number normal
could be soooo many things


What is LFS? What "real" kit would you recommend?



sorry LFS == local fish store
really ive had close enough results out of all of the ones that give you a number, the
"ok" "ideal" "safe" ..... readings are not apropreate


why did you have it tested for copper,


Because of dieing Anemone, cleaner shrimp, and hermit crabs.
who tested it???


good enough just needed the connection


Local Pet store.


ok.


reasons I ask is IF the tank was

previously used you wont be able to measure the copper, but itll still kill things.


Tank was converted from freshwater to sal****er by myself.



did you use *ANY* copper in that tank, and i mean *ANY* at all ever, if so you cant use it
for SW inverts. and this result is why. the best hobby kit ive seen reads to .1ppm the
single source I found in 2 seconds shows copper toxic at .01ppm(there are better
references and I know that number is real low.) if you have used copper in this tank you
do not need to look any further for problems. if you didnt use copper then get to the LFS
and get the nitrates checked with a kit, that gives you a number, and NOT one that uses a
plastic strip and color changing pads IME the free tests use the strips and the $ ones
use better kits my lfs charges $1 each test with 4 tests minimum

I never used any copper in this tank that I am aware of. I used to use
lead weights for plants when it was a fresh water tank. That totally
messed up the fresh water tank and once removed the tank returned to
normal. As stated before, I did have the water tested at LFS and he told
me there was no copper in the water. So you think I need better test
kits? Could the problem be from a deficiency instead of a toxic? I
currently use as additives: 2 1/2 tbs 2 x/week SeaChem Reef Plus, Reef
Complete and Reef Calcium. To each gallon of water I add due to
evaporation (every 2 days) on weeks 2 & 4 I add 1tbs Reef advantage and
week 3 1tbs reef builder. I do admit I was slacking for about 2 months.
- thanks.
 




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