nudge me in right direction

StringerBell wrote:
hi --we moved the location of the tank. It will now be conducive to hang-off
items. Would a hang-off Sump be prefferable to using the Eheim 2227?

If you follow Mike's suggestion of buying a CPR, you will be in a better
position to move towards a full reef system if you want to do that later. The
Eheim is closer to the filtration systems used in the 80s. That might be more
familiar to you.

The Eheim is just a fancy wet/dry filter. If you want to stick with that sort of
technology, you might be able to find another wet/dry that hangs on the back of
the tank.

With a refugium, you're going more to a living filtration system. It's a bit
harder to get everything into balance and keep it there.

George Patterson
Coffee is only a way of stealing time that should by rights belong to
your slightly older self.

If you go with an under gravel filter (definitely not
recommended), then use the crushed coral gravel, otherwise
*don't* use crushed coral gravel, but use a calcium based
sand.

Wayne Sallee
Wayne's Pets



George Patterson wrote on 8/25/2006 10:06 PM:
StringerBell wrote:

Now, 20 years later my wife gave me a great 65 gallon tank and wants
it to
be a Marine tank like the old days.

I would recommend that you pick up a copy of "The Conscientious Marine
Aquarist", by Robert Fenner. Here's a short synopsis of the first section.

There are three basic types of marine tanks these days; fish-only, fish
and live rock, and reef. There are variants of all of these. You had a
FO tanks in the old days, and you can do that again. The old filter
designs still work like they did in the 80s.

With FOWLR tanks, part of the biological filtration function is handled
by live rock and additional circulation in the main tank. One
disadvantage is that you cannot treat the main tank for most diseases
without harming your main filter (the live rock). One advantage is that
the rock looks more natural to most people and brings in lots of
interesting critters that you don't see in FO tanks.

Reef tanks attempt to recreate part of the coral reef inside the home.
The equipment is very different from the stuff you used in the 80s. As
you can see from the title of this group, many of the posters here have
these tanks.

If you and your wife are really interested in recreating what you had in
the 80s, go for that. Or go one better (IMO) and try the FOWLR method.
Reef is going to be a big learning experience and wallet drain.

What I would do in your shoes is to buy an Eheim 2224 wet/dry filter, a
good protein skimmer, crushed coral substrate, about 30 pounds of cured
live rock, a powerhead or two to circulate the water around the rock,
basic fluorescent lighting, and whatever dead coral decorations you
like. That will make a decent FOWLR tank.

Undergravel filters still work as well (and as poorly) as they did back
then; a wet/dry is much better.

George Patterson
Coffee is only a way of stealing time that should by rights belong to
your slightly older self.

Thanks for all info people. I`m gonna go with a combo of
Live-Rock,Skimmer,powerheads, and probably a 2227.

"Wayne Sallee" wrote in message
nk.net...
If you go with an under gravel filter (definitely not recommended), then
use the crushed coral gravel, otherwise *don't* use crushed coral gravel,
but use a calcium based sand.

Wayne Sallee
Wayne's Pets



George Patterson wrote on 8/25/2006 10:06 PM:
StringerBell wrote:

Now, 20 years later my wife gave me a great 65 gallon tank and wants it
to
be a Marine tank like the old days.

I would recommend that you pick up a copy of "The Conscientious Marine
Aquarist", by Robert Fenner. Here's a short synopsis of the first
section.

There are three basic types of marine tanks these days; fish-only, fish
and live rock, and reef. There are variants of all of these. You had a FO
tanks in the old days, and you can do that again. The old filter designs
still work like they did in the 80s.

With FOWLR tanks, part of the biological filtration function is handled
by live rock and additional circulation in the main tank. One
disadvantage is that you cannot treat the main tank for most diseases
without harming your main filter (the live rock). One advantage is that
the rock looks more natural to most people and brings in lots of
interesting critters that you don't see in FO tanks.

Reef tanks attempt to recreate part of the coral reef inside the home.
The equipment is very different from the stuff you used in the 80s. As
you can see from the title of this group, many of the posters here have
these tanks.

If you and your wife are really interested in recreating what you had in
the 80s, go for that. Or go one better (IMO) and try the FOWLR method.
Reef is going to be a big learning experience and wallet drain.

What I would do in your shoes is to buy an Eheim 2224 wet/dry filter, a
good protein skimmer, crushed coral substrate, about 30 pounds of cured
live rock, a powerhead or two to circulate the water around the rock,
basic fluorescent lighting, and whatever dead coral decorations you like.
That will make a decent FOWLR tank.

Undergravel filters still work as well (and as poorly) as they did back
then; a wet/dry is much better.

George Patterson
Coffee is only a way of stealing time that should by rights belong
to
your slightly older self.

Not only will you find the Live Rock great for your tank's health, but the life that comes from it
is incredible! As your tank ages & the conditions become right, you will find all kinds of creatures inhabiting your tank! Feather dusters, pods, stomella's, and lots more. I am setting up a 30 gc with about 45 lbs. of LR, and have 2 small starfish crawling around now. On the flip side, the rock also contains life that is NOT good for your tank, Mantis Shrimp, Zoanthid Eating Nudibranches, Sea Spiders etc. Another creature that comes with live rock are Bristle Worms. There is debate on these being good or bad for a tank. Mostly, I think it depends on what you stock your tank with so do some research. I leave mine in the tank. They are NOT good to human fingers if touched, the bristles can be painful. I would advise that when you handle your LR, wear gloves to prevent getting bitten or stung by a number of dangerous sea life. The Mantis Shrimp are nicknamed "thumb splitters" which should give you an indication of why "handling with care" is important. Also watch out for Aiptasia that comes with LR. This is a pest anemone that can reproduce rapidly, take over a tank, and even sting some corals and fishes. Most of the LR life comes out at night so you'll want to invest in a good flashlight and lots of batteries too, lol! I've set an alarm to get up at 2-3am several times to check out my tank! You will also want to bookmark this site: http://melevsreef.com/id/ It Id's over 200 reef creatures & tells you if they are safe or not.

It's moving day today, my new 30 gc Reef has cycled and all the creatures, except the Sebae Anemone, in my 10 gc nano will be moved. The new tank is not established enough for the SA,
that will be 2-3 months (at least) down the road.

Originally Posted by StringerBell

Thanks for all info people. I`m gonna go with a combo of
Live-Rock,Skimmer,powerheads, and probably a 2227.

Hey Stringer,

In your reading, look up the Emperor 400 filter. It was shown to me by a guy
who has been doing this for years. He manages a shop and has two on his
100+ gallon tank with all his corals, etc for sale. It looked great. After
doing lots of reading I picked up two for my 90g and they're great. It's
all I use for any filtration for now.

After several months now, I'm thinking of adding a skimmer just so I won't
have to clean green algae off the glass as often (I have MH lights that feed
the green algae for now until the corraline picks up); but as far as current
water quality, coral and fish health, the Emperor 400 is awesome. Don't do
a canister on a reef tank. Don't do underwater gravel filter on the reef
tank either. Keep reading and you'll see those opinions throughout.

B


"StringerBell" wrote in message
...
hi,
First of all---thanks for all the response Ive received on the NG. You
have
been VERY helpfull and patient.
But I am SO frustrated.
Here is my situation:
Back in the 80`s, my wife and I enjoyed a great 45 gallon marine tank. It
ran on a cannister filter, and an undergravel filter with powerheads.
Without me being a real scientist type, the tank STILL did great for about
5
years until a summer vacation power-outage disaster.Let`s just say that
the
only thing we found alive was the Snowflake Moray.
Now, 20 years later my wife gave me a great 65 gallon tank and wants it to
be a Marine tank like the old days.
I have gotten so much conflicting advice on filters from my local pet
shops that my head is literally swimming.
From what I have seen on the internet---it seems the preffered method to
have a marine aquarium these days is to use Live Rock (in collaboration
with a protein skimmer)as the filtration system. This sounds very
intriguing to me, but is SO outside my paradigm for a fish tank!---
What usually provides the water current in these systems? Hidden
powerheads? Or do Skimmers provide some water Current? Does the rock work
so well that the water quality is high and appears clear?
This Live-Rock angle seems like the right thing to try. What are some
pitfalls?
Please direct me to FAQs, etc.

thanks for your time and patience

"Bryan" wrote in message
...
Hey Stringer,

In your reading, look up the Emperor 400 filter.


thanks man