Read lots on how to start planted tank but still confused - please help

LOL, you don't sound like you are following any advice in this thread,
but as long as you are still learning and we are giving you ideas, then
it's all good ;~) Your phone book should have listings. Many industries
use CO2 so it's readily available, but prices will vary.

Before installing the CO2, it would be instructive to know what your gH
and kH levels are. I don't think CO2 injection would do much to my tap
water when it's at 35dgH 16dkH, and if you are at 3dgH 2dkH then you
might be pearling your plants and looking for a way to periodically turn
off the CO2, so like so many aquaria questions, the answer is 'it
depends'.
--
www.NetMax.tk

"Sarah" wrote in message
om...
I've found several vendors on Ebay that will sell me a CO2 regulator,
a pH meter, some funky black thing whose name I forget to regulate
bubbles. The bundle comes out to about $250. I'll willing to spend
that money. My question is - where do I get CO2 tanks. I'm an EMT, I
know where to get O2. But where does an aquarist get CO2?

Also, my water has a high pH (about 7.6-7.8). I know adding CO2
lowers pH which would be good for the tank. I'm now sure what my gH
and Kh are. Would using a peat layer underneath my gravel be
beneficial?

Sarah


(Giancarlo Podio) wrote in message
om...
Sounds like you actually have a 75 gallon rather than a 55. Four 55w
CFs would give you a nice amount of light, but very close to too much
for a non-pressurized CO2 setup. I would aim slightly lower if you
plan to use DIY CO2. But still, if you have the patience to keep up
with them, a couple DIY CO2 bottles will work for you. I wouldn't
waste any money on off-the-shelf DIY CO2, they are no better than
regular DIY yeast/sugar mixes, save the money for a pressurized
setup.
As for the lighting, again probably a little too long, I'd start with
10-12 hours and see how things go, you may find yourself reducing it
if you run into any problems. Filter wise, the 2217 is what I use on
both 55 and 90 gallon tanks so I know that will work very well for
you. The 2028 is just as good, pretty much the same size, a little
bigger media storage I believe but very much the same. The HOB you
can
throw out the window, it's only going to reduce your CO2 levels and
it's not needed as any one of the other filters you have is more than
sufficient. A good size fish load may also help maintain higher CO2
levels, but obviously don't go overboard. As for the substrate,
flourite/gravel mix works well, I'd add a handfull of peat moss to
the
lowest layer along with 5-6 crushed Flourish Tabs. Then cap it all
with 3-4 inches of flourite/gravel mix. I don't think you'll be able
to maintain such a steep slope for too long (4" in back, 1/2-3/4" in
front) plus that could cause nutrients to come out of the lower
layers
of the substrate. I'd go with 4" in the back and 3" in front, all the
same gravel/flourite mix in case you decide you want some foreground
plants in the future.

Here's some basic info regarding DIY CO2 setups:
http://www.gpodio.com/diy_co2.asp

Hope that helps
Giancarlo Podio

(Sarah) wrote in message . com...
I've found several vendors on Ebay that will sell me a CO2 regulator,
a pH meter, some funky black thing whose name I forget to regulate
bubbles. The bundle comes out to about $250. I'll willing to spend
that money. My question is - where do I get CO2 tanks. I'm an EMT, I
know where to get O2. But where does an aquarist get CO2?

Also, my water has a high pH (about 7.6-7.8). I know adding CO2
lowers pH which would be good for the tank. I'm now sure what my gH
and Kh are. Would using a peat layer underneath my gravel be
beneficial?

Sarah



$250? on ebay? I can sell you a system for much less than that. You
need a regulator, bubblecounter and reactor. Your KH act as a buffer
to the pH. High KH means you can safely add more C02. C02 cannisters
are sold by gas suppliers, just look in your phonr book

Robert Hudson
www.aquabotanic.com

$220 is crazy! Although you can get better deals if you wait for them
and buy used equipment, here's the bare minimum you would need to set
it up:

CO2 Tank:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...8081 483&rd=1

Regulator:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...1323 995&rd=1

Clippard Needle Valve:
http://www.clippard.com/store/displa...p?sku=MNV-4K2#

Clippard 1/4" NPT to 10-32 adapter:
http://www.clippard.com/store/displa...p?sku=4CQF-PKG

I don't use a bubble counter personally but you can add one for about
$10.

Hope that helps
Giancarlo Podio

(Sarah) wrote in message . com...
I've found several vendors on Ebay that will sell me a CO2 regulator,
a pH meter, some funky black thing whose name I forget to regulate
bubbles. The bundle comes out to about $250. I'll willing to spend
that money. My question is - where do I get CO2 tanks. I'm an EMT, I
know where to get O2. But where does an aquarist get CO2?

Also, my water has a high pH (about 7.6-7.8). I know adding CO2
lowers pH which would be good for the tank. I'm now sure what my gH
and Kh are. Would using a peat layer underneath my gravel be
beneficial?

Sarah


(Giancarlo Podio) wrote in message om...
Sounds like you actually have a 75 gallon rather than a 55. Four 55w
CFs would give you a nice amount of light, but very close to too much
for a non-pressurized CO2 setup. I would aim slightly lower if you
plan to use DIY CO2. But still, if you have the patience to keep up
with them, a couple DIY CO2 bottles will work for you. I wouldn't
waste any money on off-the-shelf DIY CO2, they are no better than
regular DIY yeast/sugar mixes, save the money for a pressurized setup.
As for the lighting, again probably a little too long, I'd start with
10-12 hours and see how things go, you may find yourself reducing it
if you run into any problems. Filter wise, the 2217 is what I use on
both 55 and 90 gallon tanks so I know that will work very well for
you. The 2028 is just as good, pretty much the same size, a little
bigger media storage I believe but very much the same. The HOB you can
throw out the window, it's only going to reduce your CO2 levels and
it's not needed as any one of the other filters you have is more than
sufficient. A good size fish load may also help maintain higher CO2
levels, but obviously don't go overboard. As for the substrate,
flourite/gravel mix works well, I'd add a handfull of peat moss to the
lowest layer along with 5-6 crushed Flourish Tabs. Then cap it all
with 3-4 inches of flourite/gravel mix. I don't think you'll be able
to maintain such a steep slope for too long (4" in back, 1/2-3/4" in
front) plus that could cause nutrients to come out of the lower layers
of the substrate. I'd go with 4" in the back and 3" in front, all the
same gravel/flourite mix in case you decide you want some foreground
plants in the future.

Here's some basic info regarding DIY CO2 setups:
http://www.gpodio.com/diy_co2.asp

Hope that helps
Giancarlo Podio