Question about PH ch ch ch changes...

"Elaine T" wrote in message
om...
NetMax wrote:
"Angrie.Woman" wrote in message
om...

In another thread that I didn't want to hijack, Elaine wrote:

"I learned from the fish store owner where I worked (he had 30 years
aquarium experience and wrote articles
for TFH) that just about any fish does fine at any pH between 6 and 8
as long as the pH stays stable. Fish HATE pH swings and the best way
to do that is to start messing with your water chemistry."

Does that mean I can't add driftwood to an established tank, or is the
change too subtle?

Also, doesn't changing the substrate also change it? I'm still
pondering the least expensive way to get some green plants in there.

A



Minerals (gravel, rocks, chips) and organic matter (peat, terbang, oak
and various driftwood types) are often used to change the pH. If
placed into the tank, their effect is often much more subtle and
gentle on the fish. Depending on your objective VS your current water
parameters, their effects may or may not be sufficient, so then you
adjust the effect by increasing the quantity (matter/water ratio),
decreasing water changes (typically with a decrease in fishload) or
pre-filter the change water (ie: filtering water through peat,
dolomite etc).

The nice thing about natural pH adjusters like this, is that often
their effect tends to adjust itself to your water (ie: the more acidic
your water, the more quickly coral will dissolve into it, dissolving
minerals which add to your kH, gH and increasing your pH. hth


As for substrate, if you have a substrate that doesn't affect pH, and
you change to a second substrate that doesn't affect pH, there will be
minimal impact. If your stubstrate is very dirty and leaching organics
into the tank, the pH may rise some. This is a good thing if your
substrate was that dirty and not planted!

Examples of pH neutral substrates are coated aquarium gravel, glass or
plastic marbles or decorating pebbles, rock or sand that doesn't fizz
when tested with acid, Fluorite, Eco Complete, and Onyx. Most lava
rock, tuffa, obsidian, sandstone, slate, shale, and clay does not
change pH. For acid testing, Oz says vinegar is not strong enough but
pH Down does the trick nicely.

Examples of pH changers are aragonite, crushed coral, substrates
designed for African rift lake cichlids, and rocks or sand that DO fizz
when tested with acid. pH changing rocks that come to mind are
limestone, marble, and some granites. I'm sure there are more.

Out of curiosity, why are you changing your substrate? Plants are
pretty flexible as to what they need to grow and you may be fine with
just laterite tablets under root feeding plants like Crypts, swords,
and Aponogetons.

--
__ Elaine T __
__' http://eethomp.com/fish.html '__


I had a geologist explain that there is sometimes some unpredictability
in how rocks react, as they are composed of various minerals.
Fortunately, it's in the minority of cases so your description holds
true, but I do have some red feldspar sandstone which seems to level off
at 7.4pH. It hardens sof****er, but not hardwater. Just fyi for
interest ).
--
www.NetMax.tk

"Angrie.Woman" wrote in message
om...

"Ozdude" wrote in message
...



Either way, I'd still be putting a fertilizer tab under each plants root
ball. You can make a circular hole in your current substrate too, put in
a fertilizer ball, cover with fine gravel, plant your plant and then top
up with your normal gravel and you'll never know it's there This way
the fertilizer nutrients will leech along the bottom of the tank,
providing fertilization for anything in the substrate.

I do basically the same thing for my outdoor plants. How long do the
fertilizer tabs last?

The ones I use (JBL - Germany) last 12 months. They disintegrate over this
time period. They are the longest lasting I have come across in Oz. They
sell "Dino-Dung" locally made, but it only lasts 6 months in potency and
structure.

I think the average ball lasts about 6 to 8 months - Seachem etc...

Oz

--
My Aquatic web Blog is at http://members.optusnet.com.au/ivan.smith

NetMax wrote:
"Elaine T" wrote in message
om...

As for substrate, if you have a substrate that doesn't affect pH, and
you change to a second substrate that doesn't affect pH, there will be
minimal impact. If your stubstrate is very dirty and leaching organics
into the tank, the pH may rise some. This is a good thing if your
substrate was that dirty and not planted!

Examples of pH neutral substrates are coated aquarium gravel, glass or
plastic marbles or decorating pebbles, rock or sand that doesn't fizz
when tested with acid, Fluorite, Eco Complete, and Onyx. Most lava
rock, tuffa, obsidian, sandstone, slate, shale, and clay does not
change pH. For acid testing, Oz says vinegar is not strong enough but
pH Down does the trick nicely.

Examples of pH changers are aragonite, crushed coral, substrates
designed for African rift lake cichlids, and rocks or sand that DO fizz
when tested with acid. pH changing rocks that come to mind are
limestone, marble, and some granites. I'm sure there are more.

Out of curiosity, why are you changing your substrate? Plants are
pretty flexible as to what they need to grow and you may be fine with
just laterite tablets under root feeding plants like Crypts, swords,
and Aponogetons.

--
__ Elaine T __
__' http://eethomp.com/fish.html '__



I had a geologist explain that there is sometimes some unpredictability
in how rocks react, as they are composed of various minerals.
Fortunately, it's in the minority of cases so your description holds
true, but I do have some red feldspar sandstone which seems to level off
at 7.4pH. It hardens sof****er, but not hardwater. Just fyi for
interest ).

I haven't run across a pH changing sandstone before - sounds like an
attractive mineral. That is why I said most with the minerals. I've
run across both pH changing and non-changing granites, and had what I
thought was marble not change my tank pH.

--
__ Elaine T __
__' http://eethomp.com/fish.html '__