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#21
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PS: Fish is still having a hard time adjusting. Hasn't eaten in almost three
days now. Dorsal fin is not really clamped but not completely upright. He seems to be in energy conservation mode. PH in the tank is 7.0, too bad I didn't check PH in the bag. ...Kodiak Poor little guy. Don't feel bad if you lose him-- he could be suffering from any manner of parasite/bacteria. The main thing is that you are trying to give him a good life. Did you try Prazi-pro? Sometimes a bad case of flukes keeps them from eating, and they sit still on the bottom a lot. Prazi clears flukes quickly and with minimal stress to the fish and filter. www.goldfishconnection.com has it and is quick to ship. Or you might be able to find it locally. You could also salt the water to .3% (one tablespoon per gallon-- dissolve and add it gradually over 12 hours), which will eliminate a lot of ciliated protozoan parasites, like ich. Keep the temperature up (around 79-80F is good) while you're treating. Try feeding him a small part of a squished pea. (That was all one of my fish would eat when he had flukes-- he's fine now) Good luck. |
#22
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Well that explains everything. Thank you all for the wonderful
posts on this. Just when you think your getting a handle on the situation, you realize your doing it all wrong. Day 4 now, the fish seems to be doing better, but he still won't eat. Wondering if I should move him to a quiet tank on his own. Why don't the LFS's know about this? They should remove the print on the bag that says mix water a bit at a time. If my fish dies because of this I will be really upset. To think you go through all that trouble and follow detailed instructions, and that's what's killing your fish! Phooey!... ....Kodiak wrote in message ... it depends. how much water was in the bag using "bag buddies": or any other kind of sedative is a no-no did they put a drop of something in to bind up ammonia (a good thing) did they flush the bag with pure oxygen or just tanked air? all fish suffer some gill frying from transport, but opening the bag and leaving them in the bag water does the most damage. Polyaqua is the brand name. used for soothing gills shipping by UPS requires chilling the fish over several days and stop feeding them for 2 or 3 days before shipping, using ice packs to keep the water cold, adding something to bind ammonia, using hospital grade pure oxygen to flush the water and fill the bag. and using adequate sized bag and water for size of fish, i.e. unpacking. Jo Ann only used UPS and Delta Dash cause they would get the fish there in 12 hours or so altho she packed such that IF the fish were out 24 or more hours the fish still would do well. She always had good luck with fish arriving in great shape.... but ... she did have problems with UPS dropping the box of fish causing internal injuries. Ingrid "Kodiak" wrote: You mentioned 1week to recover from fried gills, do you really think i fried my poor fishies gills from only 5 hours of transport? How can you safely ship any fish by UPS or FEDEX then? Must need a big huge bag of water? What is polyaqua, can you recommend a brand? ...Kodiak ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ List Manager: Puregold Goldfish List http://puregold.aquaria.net/ www.drsolo.com Solve the problem, dont waste energy finding who's to blame ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Unfortunately, I receive no money, gifts, discounts or other compensation for all the damn work I do, nor for any of the endorsements or recommendations I make. |
#23
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the fish may need to be force fed to get em eating again. often their sense of smell
seems to have been "burned". try a bit of chopped shrimp, or, daphnia something that moves may stimulate them to eat. are you saying you put this fish in with established fish? that you didnt quarantine this new fish? yes, go back to the LFS with a printout from this group and explain how their old fashioned mythology is actually causing people to kill fish. it is the only way they will learn. lest you think it wont change anything.... you have no idea how the Goldfish Guru (Jo Ann Burke) has changed the keeping of GF in the few years she has been on the internet. Ingrid "Kodiak" wrote: Well that explains everything. Thank you all for the wonderful posts on this. Just when you think your getting a handle on the situation, you realize your doing it all wrong. Day 4 now, the fish seems to be doing better, but he still won't eat. Wondering if I should move him to a quiet tank on his own. Why don't the LFS's know about this? They should remove the print on the bag that says mixwater a bit at a time. If my fish dies because of this I will be really upset. To think you go throughall that trouble and follow detailed instructions, and that's what's killing your fish! Phooey!... ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ List Manager: Puregold Goldfish List http://puregold.aquaria.net/ www.drsolo.com Solve the problem, dont waste energy finding who's to blame ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Unfortunately, I receive no money, gifts, discounts or other compensation for all the damn work I do, nor for any of the endorsements or recommendations I make. |
#24
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I heartily recommend NOT using praziquantel with GF. It is NOT mild and can fry the
gills. A quick 10 SECOND dip in 1 part (3%) hydrogen peroxide + 9 parts water effectively kills all kinds of flukes. This can be repeated every 3 days if there are dacs (hatching eggs). It is cheap, it works, and the contact with the gills is fleeting. Ingrid Did you try Prazi-pro? Sometimes a bad case of flukes keeps them from eating, and they sit still on the bottom a lot. Prazi clears flukes quickly and with minimal stress to the fish and filter. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ List Manager: Puregold Goldfish List http://puregold.aquaria.net/ www.drsolo.com Solve the problem, dont waste energy finding who's to blame ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Unfortunately, I receive no money, gifts, discounts or other compensation for all the damn work I do, nor for any of the endorsements or recommendations I make. |
#25
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Day 4 now, the fish
seems to be doing better, but he still won't eat. Wondering if I should move him to a quiet tank on his own. If it won't eat there is probably something wrong with it. Next time see if the fish eats in the store. I missed what type of fish it is but some fish don't recognize different food if they have been raised on one diet. When I invented the bucket to bucket method I used a green colored series of buckets. The green color relaxed the fish to the point they were stationary and breathing calmly. I do not know why, but when I moved them to a different color they were not calm. In time, and when on the mend, they start to hunt and peck like a normal fish. |
#27
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Huh. I've had very good luck with Prazi.
The fish I've used it on in q-tine have turned out to be my healthiest, liveliest ones. It came highly recommended from sources I respect. OH well. Peroxide came from a published story in 2001 and it referenced a 1997 work. The article goes back to 1922 with credits and also cites dosages. They think no one will check, that's how they operate. |
#28
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Yes Ingrid, I know, shame on me. I put him in an established tank without
Qtine first. The other fish in the tank were also recently purchased and not Qtine'd. I'm just now getting into all the intricacies of this hobby, so i proise I will never do that again. Day 5 now he's still not eating, should I take him out and do a bucket brigade on him? ....Kodiak wrote in message ... the fish may need to be force fed to get em eating again. often their sense of smell seems to have been "burned". try a bit of chopped shrimp, or, daphnia something that moves may stimulate them to eat. are you saying you put this fish in with established fish? that you didnt quarantine this new fish? yes, go back to the LFS with a printout from this group and explain how their old fashioned mythology is actually causing people to kill fish. it is the only way they will learn. lest you think it wont change anything.... you have no idea how the Goldfish Guru (Jo Ann Burke) has changed the keeping of GF in the few years she has been on the internet. Ingrid "Kodiak" wrote: Well that explains everything. Thank you all for the wonderful posts on this. Just when you think your getting a handle on the situation, you realize your doing it all wrong. Day 4 now, the fish seems to be doing better, but he still won't eat. Wondering if I should move him to a quiet tank on his own. Why don't the LFS's know about this? They should remove the print on the bag that says mixwater a bit at a time. If my fish dies because of this I will be really upset. To think you go throughall that trouble and follow detailed instructions, and that's what's killing your fish! Phooey!... ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ List Manager: Puregold Goldfish List http://puregold.aquaria.net/ www.drsolo.com Solve the problem, dont waste energy finding who's to blame ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Unfortunately, I receive no money, gifts, discounts or other compensation for all the damn work I do, nor for any of the endorsements or recommendations I make. |
#29
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you need to tempt him with something stronger smelling and/or something that moves.
most of these fish were in ponds and fed live food. try a smidgen of live blood worms. otherwise you are going to have to force feed em. a 1 cc TB syringe (without the needle of course) and soak some food until it is much will go up into the syringe and back out. get the syringe all the way back down into their throat where the pharyngeal teeth are. as you bring the fish up to the surface they will open their mouth. that is when you put the syringe in and feed em. Ingrid "Kodiak" wrote: Yes Ingrid, I know, shame on me. I put him in an established tank without Qtine first. The other fish in the tank were also recently purchased and not Qtine'd. I'm just now getting into all the intricacies of this hobby, so i proise I will never do that again. Day 5 now he's still not eating, should I take him out and do a bucket brigade on him? ...Kodiak ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ List Manager: Puregold Goldfish List http://puregold.aquaria.net/ www.drsolo.com Solve the problem, dont waste energy finding who's to blame ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Unfortunately, I receive no money, gifts, discounts or other compensation for all the damn work I do, nor for any of the endorsements or recommendations I make. |
#30
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potassium permanganate has always been used successfully for gyros in the past. PP
is also not very harsh, but it is used as a bath (which always has concerns). Dacs have always been a problem and been resistant to almost all medications, including praziquantel. Jo Ann figured out what dose of peroxide works with flukes on GF just in the last year or so, so I am not surprised that others are still recommending prazi. http://cal.vet.upenn.edu/dxendopar/d...aziquantel.htm "Praziquantel Chemical group: Acylated quinoline-pyrazine Trade names: Droncit, Tape Worm Tabs, Drontal1, Drontal Plus2 Mode of action: Modulates cell membrane permeability (calcium dependent), leads to a disintegration of the tapeworm’s tegument. Now if this were pond fish and the pond was loaded with organics, prazi might be the choice. Ingrid (Vissy Dartae) wrote: Huh. I've had very good luck with Prazi. The fish I've used it on in q-tine have turned out to be my healthiest, liveliest ones. It came highly recommended from sources I respect. OH well. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ List Manager: Puregold Goldfish List http://puregold.aquaria.net/ www.drsolo.com Solve the problem, dont waste energy finding who's to blame ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Unfortunately, I receive no money, gifts, discounts or other compensation for all the damn work I do, nor for any of the endorsements or recommendations I make. |
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