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#21
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Disconnecting alternator from car....
If you disconnect the alternator, be sure you have a real good battery
and don't drive too far. cuhulin |
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#22
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Disconnecting alternator from car....
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#23
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Disconnecting alternator from car....
Much better to keep on letting those 3 or 4 or 5 Horses keep on pulling
that alternator. No Doubt about it! cuhulin |
#24
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Disconnecting alternator from car....
"Steve W." > wrote in message news:il5j3s$ef8> > With it disconnected you might gain about 2 HP. Of course after you drive > till the battery discharges plan on buying a new battery. Oh and if you > connect up the alternator to charge the battery back up plan on buying a > new one of them as well. They are not designed for long term high output > any longer. Most will fry if they have to put out much over half the rated > max for any length of time. > > -- > Steve W. I agree.. A 100 amp alternator putting full current would be about 1300-1400 watts, just about 2 hp. But in real life you dont pull that much current all the time, most likely. In rough terms, 2 hp compared with 200 hp (when fully putting out), would be 1%. And 1% would probably resolve to 0.2-0.3 mpg. At least the boy is using his thought processes. Thought experiments worked well for Einstein, Hawking, Penrose, et alia.. But on cars, it is better to engineer it and test the result |
#25
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Disconnecting alternator from car....
"hls" > wrote in message
... > > "Steve W." > wrote in message news:il5j3s$ef8> >> With it disconnected you might gain about 2 HP. Of course after you drive >> till the battery discharges plan on buying a new battery. Oh and if you >> connect up the alternator to charge the battery back up plan on buying a >> new one of them as well. They are not designed for long term high output >> any longer. Most will fry if they have to put out much over half the >> rated max for any length of time. >> >> -- >> Steve W. > > I agree.. A 100 amp alternator putting full current would be about > 1300-1400 watts, just about 2 hp. But in real life you dont pull that > much > current all the time, most likely. > > In rough terms, 2 hp compared with 200 hp (when fully putting out), > would be 1%. And 1% would probably resolve to 0.2-0.3 mpg. > > At least the boy is using his thought processes. Thought experiments > worked well for Einstein, Hawking, Penrose, et alia.. But on cars, it > is better to engineer it and test the result Do you really need to test the fact that at 60 mph, a small car is drawing 10-20 hp, and not 200 hp? In rough terms, 2 hp is then 10-20%, not 1% -- which, btw, I already pointed out. And, altho the electrical draw on average may be modest, the residual frictional load is proly on the order of a better part of a hp. You could have an engineer test that particular detail..... -- EA > |
#26
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Disconnecting alternator from car....
On Tue, 8 Mar 2011 19:27:45 -0500, Existential Angst wrote:
> Do you really need to test the fact that at 60 mph, a small car is drawing > 10-20 hp, and not 200 hp? There is a lot of wind resistance to overpower at 60mph |
#27
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Disconnecting alternator from car....
"Existential Angst" ) writes:
> "hls" > wrote in message > ... >> >> "Steve W." > wrote in message news:il5j3s$ef8> >>> With it disconnected you might gain about 2 HP. Of course after you drive >>> till the battery discharges plan on buying a new battery. Oh and if you >>> connect up the alternator to charge the battery back up plan on buying a >>> new one of them as well. They are not designed for long term high output >>> any longer. Most will fry if they have to put out much over half the >>> rated max for any length of time. >>> >>> -- >>> Steve W. >> >> I agree.. A 100 amp alternator putting full current would be about >> 1300-1400 watts, just about 2 hp. But in real life you dont pull that >> much >> current all the time, most likely. >> >> In rough terms, 2 hp compared with 200 hp (when fully putting out), >> would be 1%. And 1% would probably resolve to 0.2-0.3 mpg. >> >> At least the boy is using his thought processes. Thought experiments >> worked well for Einstein, Hawking, Penrose, et alia.. But on cars, it >> is better to engineer it and test the result > > Do you really need to test the fact that at 60 mph, a small car is drawing > 10-20 hp, and not 200 hp? > In rough terms, 2 hp is then 10-20%, not 1% -- which, btw, I already pointed > out. > > And, altho the electrical draw on average may be modest, the residual > frictional load is proly on the order of a better part of a hp. You could > have an engineer test that particular detail..... > -- > EA > Frictional load is nowhere close to a hp. Have you ever spun an alternator by hand? Its almost friction-less. The only effort needed is to rotate the mass and that is only when accelerating it to a higher speed. You do know that alternators by their very nature are automatic... they automatically respond to electrical load presented... no electrical load presented, no magnetic drag... an electrical load presented, a corresponding magnetic drag. You know you can achieve the same thing WITHOUT disconnecting the alternator. Actually you can achieve more... the equivalent of a belt less disconnected alternator, and still produce electricity! All you have to do is weigh all the rotating mass (pulley that drives the belt, belt that drives the alternator rotor, the alternator rotor itself) and add a small fraction of a percent for the bearing friction, brush friction, and windage (air that the rotor pushes around) and then remove "meat" from the flywheel! Not enough "meat" on the flywheel to equal the rotating mass? Remove "meat" from the pistons, piston pins, connecting rods, and crankshaft! Be careful though... removing "meat" can be dangerous to the health of an engine! Think "balance". Also check out the availability (and weight savings) of titanium connecting rods for your engine. |
#28
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Disconnecting alternator from car....
M.A. Stewart wrote:
> "Existential Angst" ) writes: >> "hls" > wrote in message >> ... > >>> "Steve W." > wrote in message news:il5j3s$ef8> >>>> With it disconnected you might gain about 2 HP. Of course after you drive >>>> till the battery discharges plan on buying a new battery. Oh and if you >>>> connect up the alternator to charge the battery back up plan on buying a >>>> new one of them as well. They are not designed for long term high output >>>> any longer. Most will fry if they have to put out much over half the >>>> rated max for any length of time. >>>> >>>> -- >>>> Steve W. > >>> I agree.. A 100 amp alternator putting full current would be about >>> 1300-1400 watts, just about 2 hp. But in real life you dont pull that >>> much >>> current all the time, most likely. >>> >>> In rough terms, 2 hp compared with 200 hp (when fully putting out), >>> would be 1%. And 1% would probably resolve to 0.2-0.3 mpg. >>> >>> At least the boy is using his thought processes. Thought experiments >>> worked well for Einstein, Hawking, Penrose, et alia.. But on cars, it >>> is better to engineer it and test the result > >> Do you really need to test the fact that at 60 mph, a small car is drawing >> 10-20 hp, and not 200 hp? >> In rough terms, 2 hp is then 10-20%, not 1% -- which, btw, I already pointed >> out. > >> And, altho the electrical draw on average may be modest, the residual >> frictional load is proly on the order of a better part of a hp. You could >> have an engineer test that particular detail..... >> -- >> EA >> > > > Frictional load is nowhere close to a hp. Have you ever spun an alternator > by hand? Its almost friction-less. The only effort needed is to rotate the > mass and that is only when accelerating it to a higher speed. You do know that > alternators by their very nature are automatic... they automatically > respond to electrical load presented... no electrical load presented, no > magnetic drag... an electrical load presented, a corresponding magnetic drag. > > You know you can achieve the same thing WITHOUT disconnecting the > alternator. Actually you can achieve more... the equivalent of a belt less > disconnected alternator, and still produce electricity! All you have to do > is weigh all the rotating mass (pulley that drives the belt, belt that drives > the alternator rotor, the alternator rotor itself) and add a small > fraction of a percent for the bearing friction, brush friction, and > windage (air that the rotor pushes around) and then remove "meat" from the > flywheel! Not enough "meat" on the flywheel to equal the rotating mass? > Remove "meat" from the pistons, piston pins, connecting rods, and > crankshaft! Be careful though... removing "meat" can be dangerous to the > health of an engine! Think "balance". Also check out the availability (and > weight savings) of titanium connecting rods for your engine. > > > > meh. You want light? Just start with a carbon car: http://www.paganiautomobili.it/ and . . . it's Italian. -- Andrew Muzi <www.yellowjersey.org/> Open every day since 1 April, 1971 |
#29
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Disconnecting alternator from car....
Yeah, the Italians make some good stuff.
Emma comes first,,, cuhulin |
#30
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Disconnecting alternator from car....
In message >, Existential Angst
> writes >Do you really need to test the fact that at 60 mph, a small car is drawing >10-20 hp, and not 200 hp? >In rough terms, 2 hp is then 10-20%, not 1% -- which, btw, I already pointed >out. >And, altho the electrical draw on average may be modest, the residual >frictional load is proly on the order of a better part of a hp. You could >have an engineer test that particular detail..... The biggest draw on your fuel will be moving air around your car. -- Clive |
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