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oil pan for 3.4 in an XJ?



 
 
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  #1  
Old December 2nd 04, 09:54 PM
wkearney99
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default oil pan for 3.4 in an XJ?


Ok, supposedly I was wrong about the 2.8L pan not fitting a 3.4L. If that's
the case then what can I do to prevent a replacement pan from getting dinged
by the axle? Somehow or another the pan managed to get whacked by the axle
and the dent creased the pan enough to cause splits that leak.

Anyone have a clue as to whether the gasket will work?

While I'm in here what's it take to deal with a rear seal leak? It may or
may not have one. This poor old beast had to pull several tons of dirt this
spring and it seems like it might have developed a leak to the rear of the
engine. Doesn't seem to be a valve cover so I'm left guessing about the
rear seal. If I'm in there dealing with pan I might as well fix the rear if
it's shot.

Anyone got a good supplier they'd recommend?

Thanks,
-Bill Kearney


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  #2  
Old December 2nd 04, 09:54 PM
wkearney99
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default


Ok, supposedly I was wrong about the 2.8L pan not fitting a 3.4L. If that's
the case then what can I do to prevent a replacement pan from getting dinged
by the axle? Somehow or another the pan managed to get whacked by the axle
and the dent creased the pan enough to cause splits that leak.

Anyone have a clue as to whether the gasket will work?

While I'm in here what's it take to deal with a rear seal leak? It may or
may not have one. This poor old beast had to pull several tons of dirt this
spring and it seems like it might have developed a leak to the rear of the
engine. Doesn't seem to be a valve cover so I'm left guessing about the
rear seal. If I'm in there dealing with pan I might as well fix the rear if
it's shot.

Anyone got a good supplier they'd recommend?

Thanks,
-Bill Kearney


  #3  
Old December 3rd 04, 05:48 AM
Rich Hampel
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

this engine (both the 2.8 and the 3.4) is notorious for leaking
distributor bases. Anytime you remove the distributor you should
replace the O-ring seal thats in the groove at the base of the
distributor. After about 30K miles (due to the hot metal the O-ring
will harden, will loose its resiliancy and will allow oil to pass

For the pan/axel intereference, take a ball-peen hammer and bump block
and move (deform) the metal of the pan where it would crash into the
front differential when the axle springs are compressed. Take your
time and keep tap-tap-taping with peen hammer until you have a smooth
and large dimple to clear the diff. & axle. It takes time to learn how
to use a peen hammer ... just be patient it will all come to you as you
use it ---- dont lose patience or you'll break through the metal. a
thousand whacks should move sufficient metal to create a dimple.


In article >, wkearney99
> wrote:

> Ok, supposedly I was wrong about the 2.8L pan not fitting a 3.4L. If that's
> the case then what can I do to prevent a replacement pan from getting dinged
> by the axle? Somehow or another the pan managed to get whacked by the axle
> and the dent creased the pan enough to cause splits that leak.
>
> Anyone have a clue as to whether the gasket will work?
>
> While I'm in here what's it take to deal with a rear seal leak? It may or
> may not have one. This poor old beast had to pull several tons of dirt this
> spring and it seems like it might have developed a leak to the rear of the
> engine. Doesn't seem to be a valve cover so I'm left guessing about the
> rear seal. If I'm in there dealing with pan I might as well fix the rear if
> it's shot.
>
> Anyone got a good supplier they'd recommend?
>
> Thanks,
> -Bill Kearney
>
>

  #4  
Old December 3rd 04, 05:48 AM
Rich Hampel
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

this engine (both the 2.8 and the 3.4) is notorious for leaking
distributor bases. Anytime you remove the distributor you should
replace the O-ring seal thats in the groove at the base of the
distributor. After about 30K miles (due to the hot metal the O-ring
will harden, will loose its resiliancy and will allow oil to pass

For the pan/axel intereference, take a ball-peen hammer and bump block
and move (deform) the metal of the pan where it would crash into the
front differential when the axle springs are compressed. Take your
time and keep tap-tap-taping with peen hammer until you have a smooth
and large dimple to clear the diff. & axle. It takes time to learn how
to use a peen hammer ... just be patient it will all come to you as you
use it ---- dont lose patience or you'll break through the metal. a
thousand whacks should move sufficient metal to create a dimple.


In article >, wkearney99
> wrote:

> Ok, supposedly I was wrong about the 2.8L pan not fitting a 3.4L. If that's
> the case then what can I do to prevent a replacement pan from getting dinged
> by the axle? Somehow or another the pan managed to get whacked by the axle
> and the dent creased the pan enough to cause splits that leak.
>
> Anyone have a clue as to whether the gasket will work?
>
> While I'm in here what's it take to deal with a rear seal leak? It may or
> may not have one. This poor old beast had to pull several tons of dirt this
> spring and it seems like it might have developed a leak to the rear of the
> engine. Doesn't seem to be a valve cover so I'm left guessing about the
> rear seal. If I'm in there dealing with pan I might as well fix the rear if
> it's shot.
>
> Anyone got a good supplier they'd recommend?
>
> Thanks,
> -Bill Kearney
>
>

  #5  
Old December 3rd 04, 05:54 AM
L.W.(ßill) Hughes III
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

http://www.high-performance-engines.com/engineswap.html
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
http://www.billhughes.com/

wkearney99 wrote:
>
> I replaced my 2.8L in an 84 cherokee some time ago with a 3.4L. The oil pan
> from the 2.8L didn't fit and the clearance on the 3.4L was tight. Well, too
> tight it seems as there's now an axle-shaped dent in the bottom of it.
> Along with cracks with oil leaking from them.
>
> Where does one get the "right" pan to fit? This was a stock long block 3.4L
> so it's unlikely a regular Jeep part would work. Any suggestions on how to
> figure out what to get (and where to get it)?
>
> Thanks,
> -Bill Kearney

  #6  
Old December 3rd 04, 05:54 AM
L.W.(ßill) Hughes III
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

http://www.high-performance-engines.com/engineswap.html
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
http://www.billhughes.com/

wkearney99 wrote:
>
> I replaced my 2.8L in an 84 cherokee some time ago with a 3.4L. The oil pan
> from the 2.8L didn't fit and the clearance on the 3.4L was tight. Well, too
> tight it seems as there's now an axle-shaped dent in the bottom of it.
> Along with cracks with oil leaking from them.
>
> Where does one get the "right" pan to fit? This was a stock long block 3.4L
> so it's unlikely a regular Jeep part would work. Any suggestions on how to
> figure out what to get (and where to get it)?
>
> Thanks,
> -Bill Kearney

  #7  
Old December 3rd 04, 02:00 PM
wkearney99
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

> this engine (both the 2.8 and the 3.4) is notorious for leaking
> distributor bases. Anytime you remove the distributor you should
> replace the O-ring seal thats in the groove at the base of the
> distributor. After about 30K miles (due to the hot metal the O-ring
> will harden, will loose its resiliancy and will allow oil to pass


Hmmm, that's good to know. I'll take a closer look at it to see if that's
involved in the leak. I've not done anything to the distributor since the
new engine was installed. It's been about 15k miles since the swap; about 6
years ago, so I suppose it could be degraded. Given it's placement at the
rear of the engine amidst a rats nest of wiring it's not something I'd
usually chose to pull out.

> For the pan/axel intereference, take a ball-peen hammer and bump block
> and move (deform) the metal of the pan where it would crash into the
> front differential when the axle springs are compressed. Take your
> time and keep tap-tap-taping with peen hammer until you have a smooth
> and large dimple to clear the diff. & axle.


Anyone make a pan that's already setup to avoid this problem? How about
"doing something" to the axle to help it avoid being able to wreck the pan?
There are a couple of bump-stops on the frame rails above the axles and I'm
sure they're due for replacement. Heh, perhaps a lift kit!

-Bill Kearney

  #8  
Old December 3rd 04, 02:00 PM
wkearney99
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

> this engine (both the 2.8 and the 3.4) is notorious for leaking
> distributor bases. Anytime you remove the distributor you should
> replace the O-ring seal thats in the groove at the base of the
> distributor. After about 30K miles (due to the hot metal the O-ring
> will harden, will loose its resiliancy and will allow oil to pass


Hmmm, that's good to know. I'll take a closer look at it to see if that's
involved in the leak. I've not done anything to the distributor since the
new engine was installed. It's been about 15k miles since the swap; about 6
years ago, so I suppose it could be degraded. Given it's placement at the
rear of the engine amidst a rats nest of wiring it's not something I'd
usually chose to pull out.

> For the pan/axel intereference, take a ball-peen hammer and bump block
> and move (deform) the metal of the pan where it would crash into the
> front differential when the axle springs are compressed. Take your
> time and keep tap-tap-taping with peen hammer until you have a smooth
> and large dimple to clear the diff. & axle.


Anyone make a pan that's already setup to avoid this problem? How about
"doing something" to the axle to help it avoid being able to wreck the pan?
There are a couple of bump-stops on the frame rails above the axles and I'm
sure they're due for replacement. Heh, perhaps a lift kit!

-Bill Kearney

  #9  
Old December 3rd 04, 10:52 PM
Rich Hampel
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

GM offers a "4X4" pan which has to be ordered separately when you buy
the 3.4 as a 'crate engine' for installation into a Jeep XJ. the
standard crate 3.4 has a 'deep sump' oil pan.

The 3.4 crate engine (PN 12363230) comes with the 'standard' oil pan PN
1007899. To fit this to a 4x4 you also need to order the 4x4 (shallow
sump) pan - PN 10099979.... then you need to 'move some metal' with a
ball peen to remove intereference with the front diff housing - the
axel will clear but not the corner of the diff case. You will also
need to alter the suction screen position of the oil pump ---- hope you
still have the old 2.8 laying around ... just swap the bottom plate and
suction tube on the 2.8 oilpump into the 3.4.

For the 4x4 pan conversion the standard oil drain will have to be moved
as the standard 4x4 pan wlll have the oil drain interefere with the
exhaust pipe.... you wont ever be able to open the drain ... or just
get a retrofit auto trans oil drain adapter and be done with it.

hope this helps.
;-)

In article >, wkearney99
> wrote:

> > this engine (both the 2.8 and the 3.4) is notorious for leaking
> > distributor bases. Anytime you remove the distributor you should
> > replace the O-ring seal thats in the groove at the base of the
> > distributor. After about 30K miles (due to the hot metal the O-ring
> > will harden, will loose its resiliancy and will allow oil to pass

>
> Hmmm, that's good to know. I'll take a closer look at it to see if that's
> involved in the leak. I've not done anything to the distributor since the
> new engine was installed. It's been about 15k miles since the swap; about 6
> years ago, so I suppose it could be degraded. Given it's placement at the
> rear of the engine amidst a rats nest of wiring it's not something I'd
> usually chose to pull out.
>
> > For the pan/axel intereference, take a ball-peen hammer and bump block
> > and move (deform) the metal of the pan where it would crash into the
> > front differential when the axle springs are compressed. Take your
> > time and keep tap-tap-taping with peen hammer until you have a smooth
> > and large dimple to clear the diff. & axle.

>
> Anyone make a pan that's already setup to avoid this problem? How about
> "doing something" to the axle to help it avoid being able to wreck the pan?
> There are a couple of bump-stops on the frame rails above the axles and I'm
> sure they're due for replacement. Heh, perhaps a lift kit!
>
> -Bill Kearney
>

  #10  
Old December 3rd 04, 10:52 PM
Rich Hampel
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

GM offers a "4X4" pan which has to be ordered separately when you buy
the 3.4 as a 'crate engine' for installation into a Jeep XJ. the
standard crate 3.4 has a 'deep sump' oil pan.

The 3.4 crate engine (PN 12363230) comes with the 'standard' oil pan PN
1007899. To fit this to a 4x4 you also need to order the 4x4 (shallow
sump) pan - PN 10099979.... then you need to 'move some metal' with a
ball peen to remove intereference with the front diff housing - the
axel will clear but not the corner of the diff case. You will also
need to alter the suction screen position of the oil pump ---- hope you
still have the old 2.8 laying around ... just swap the bottom plate and
suction tube on the 2.8 oilpump into the 3.4.

For the 4x4 pan conversion the standard oil drain will have to be moved
as the standard 4x4 pan wlll have the oil drain interefere with the
exhaust pipe.... you wont ever be able to open the drain ... or just
get a retrofit auto trans oil drain adapter and be done with it.

hope this helps.
;-)

In article >, wkearney99
> wrote:

> > this engine (both the 2.8 and the 3.4) is notorious for leaking
> > distributor bases. Anytime you remove the distributor you should
> > replace the O-ring seal thats in the groove at the base of the
> > distributor. After about 30K miles (due to the hot metal the O-ring
> > will harden, will loose its resiliancy and will allow oil to pass

>
> Hmmm, that's good to know. I'll take a closer look at it to see if that's
> involved in the leak. I've not done anything to the distributor since the
> new engine was installed. It's been about 15k miles since the swap; about 6
> years ago, so I suppose it could be degraded. Given it's placement at the
> rear of the engine amidst a rats nest of wiring it's not something I'd
> usually chose to pull out.
>
> > For the pan/axel intereference, take a ball-peen hammer and bump block
> > and move (deform) the metal of the pan where it would crash into the
> > front differential when the axle springs are compressed. Take your
> > time and keep tap-tap-taping with peen hammer until you have a smooth
> > and large dimple to clear the diff. & axle.

>
> Anyone make a pan that's already setup to avoid this problem? How about
> "doing something" to the axle to help it avoid being able to wreck the pan?
> There are a couple of bump-stops on the frame rails above the axles and I'm
> sure they're due for replacement. Heh, perhaps a lift kit!
>
> -Bill Kearney
>

 




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