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Car Running HOT, NOW WHAT?



 
 
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  #1  
Old June 13th 05, 02:59 PM
HotRod
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Default Car Running HOT, NOW WHAT?

I purchased a 94 VW Golf Diesel a few months ago and it has been running
great, except for the fact that it has been running hot. When I first got
the car the temp gauge did not work so I replaced all of the temp sensors in
the RAD and water jackets, three in all. This got the RAD fan and temp gauge
working properly. BUT the car was still running at 110 F when it should be
running around 90 F so I replaced the thermostat on the weekend and took the
car out for a trip, it's still running around 100 - 115 F, when I had the
thermostat out I inspected the water pump and it looks great and moves
freely. WHAT AM I MISSING?


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  #2  
Old June 13th 05, 03:08 PM
N8N
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HotRod wrote:
> I purchased a 94 VW Golf Diesel a few months ago and it has been running
> great, except for the fact that it has been running hot. When I first got
> the car the temp gauge did not work so I replaced all of the temp sensors in
> the RAD and water jackets, three in all. This got the RAD fan and temp gauge
> working properly. BUT the car was still running at 110 F when it should be
> running around 90 F so I replaced the thermostat on the weekend and took the
> car out for a trip, it's still running around 100 - 115 F, when I had the
> thermostat out I inspected the water pump and it looks great and moves
> freely. WHAT AM I MISSING?


first of all those temps are C not F...

secondly, where are you reading this temperature? From the gauge or
from the MFA (digital display) if you are reading this from the MFA
that is oil temp not water temp and 110C is no cause for alarm. I
can't honestly remember if the A3s had the water temp gauge calibrated
in degrees or not; I know my A1s and A2s did not, I always thought that
was a little cheezy. Anyway if your oil temps are just a little over
100C that is about perfect.

nate

  #3  
Old June 13th 05, 03:17 PM
HotRod
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Default

Well maybe I have this all wrong. The sensors I replaced were in the RAD
hoses and RAD so assume these are water Temperatures. Also does anyone know
whether the Temp. gauge on a 94 golf is oil or water? And since this is a
Canadian Car is the F or C....

Like I said the car seems to be running fine but I think the temp gauge is a
little high?

Other QUESTION when I refilled the RAD is there a bleeder screw that I need
to bleed the air out, just like my late model Porsche 924 which was also
VW???




"HotRod" > wrote in message
...
>I purchased a 94 VW Golf Diesel a few months ago and it has been running
>great, except for the fact that it has been running hot. When I first got
>the car the temp gauge did not work so I replaced all of the temp sensors
>in the RAD and water jackets, three in all. This got the RAD fan and temp
>gauge working properly. BUT the car was still running at 110 F when it
>should be running around 90 F so I replaced the thermostat on the weekend
>and took the car out for a trip, it's still running around 100 - 115 F,
>when I had the thermostat out I inspected the water pump and it looks great
>and moves freely. WHAT AM I MISSING?
>



  #4  
Old June 13th 05, 05:13 PM
Eduardo K.
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Default

In article >,
HotRod > wrote:
>Well maybe I have this all wrong. The sensors I replaced were in the RAD
>hoses and RAD so assume these are water Temperatures. Also does anyone know
>whether the Temp. gauge on a 94 golf is oil or water? And since this is a
>Canadian Car is the F or C....
>
>Like I said the car seems to be running fine but I think the temp gauge is a
>little high?
>
>Other QUESTION when I refilled the RAD is there a bleeder screw that I need
>to bleed the air out, just like my late model Porsche 924 which was also
>VW???



I have almost the same car, and it runs with the temp needle vertical. Every
time it has run hotter that that it was air in the system. Its quite
difficult to bleed, but almost always seem to bleed itself after a couple of
days....

Maybe just need to be patient?


--
Eduardo K. | To put a pipe in byte mode,
http://www.carfun.cl | type PIPE_TYPE_BYTE.
http://e.nn.cl | (from the Visual C++ help file.)
  #5  
Old June 13th 05, 06:01 PM
N8N
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Posts: n/a
Default



Eduardo K. wrote:
> In article >,
> HotRod > wrote:
> >Well maybe I have this all wrong. The sensors I replaced were in the RAD
> >hoses and RAD so assume these are water Temperatures. Also does anyone know
> >whether the Temp. gauge on a 94 golf is oil or water? And since this is a
> >Canadian Car is the F or C....
> >
> >Like I said the car seems to be running fine but I think the temp gauge is a
> >little high?
> >
> >Other QUESTION when I refilled the RAD is there a bleeder screw that I need
> >to bleed the air out, just like my late model Porsche 924 which was also
> >VW???

>
>
> I have almost the same car, and it runs with the temp needle vertical. Every
> time it has run hotter that that it was air in the system. Its quite
> difficult to bleed, but almost always seem to bleed itself after a couple of
> days....
>
> Maybe just need to be patient?
>


I'm still confused... do A3 temp gauges actually read in degrees?
still not clear (to me) where he's getting these temp readings from,
i.e. is there even a problem

anyway the best way I have found to fill a VW engine is to remove the
upper rad hose, and fill through that... then fill the radiator as
well... (use a flexible funnel) then there won't be an air pocket
around the thermostat and it will open as soon as the engine gets hot
and burp the rest of the air up to the bottle.

nate

  #6  
Old June 13th 05, 06:07 PM
Tom's VR6
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Default

In rec.autos.makers.vw.watercooled, HotRod wrote:

>WHAT AM I MISSING?


In addition to the other comments, see PRESSURIZED BOILING POINTS OF
GLYCOL SOLUTIONS on http://www.are.com.au/feat/techtalk/coolants.htm

I can't verify their numbers, but they sound right.

The points you are missing is that, while pure water boils at 100
Celsius at sea level atmospheric pressure, when you pressurize the
radiator, you get higher boiling points.

Using a 50% ... 60% ethylene glycol antifreeze also raises the
boiling point. (choosing the right antifreeze and using distilled
water is a whole different discussion).

If you are not losing coolant when things read hot, don't worry
about it. Hotter is good to a point.


  #7  
Old June 13th 05, 06:53 PM
HotRod
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Default

I haven't lost any coolant at all and can't say that I've noticed any
boiling. I am using a 50% antifreeze to water mix. I'm just afraid that the
engine is running to hot it always seems to run at the 110. I prefer the
heat in the winter but not the summer.


  #8  
Old June 14th 05, 01:33 PM
HotRod
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Default

OK here's the update. And NO I haven't touched anything else since I last
posted (Haven't had time). This morning when my wife took the car to work it
got to 120 C and the warning lights came on, she was able to let it cool
down and then ran the heater in the car all the way back to the house (about
10 min.)

I'm going to try re-filling the RAD and try to bleed out any air pockets.




"HotRod" > wrote in message
...
>I purchased a 94 VW Golf Diesel a few months ago and it has been running
>great, except for the fact that it has been running hot. When I first got
>the car the temp gauge did not work so I replaced all of the temp sensors
>in the RAD and water jackets, three in all. This got the RAD fan and temp
>gauge working properly. BUT the car was still running at 110 F when it
>should be running around 90 F so I replaced the thermostat on the weekend
>and took the car out for a trip, it's still running around 100 - 115 F,
>when I had the thermostat out I inspected the water pump and it looks great
>and moves freely. WHAT AM I MISSING?
>



  #9  
Old June 14th 05, 02:22 PM
Papa
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Default

Maybe the warning light is indicating low oil pressure rather than excessive
coolant temperature. If that is the case, perhaps you need a new oil pump.
Just a thought.


  #10  
Old June 15th 05, 05:08 AM
Eduardo K.
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Default

In article .com>,
N8N > wrote:
>
>
>I'm still confused... do A3 temp gauges actually read in degrees?
>still not clear (to me) where he's getting these temp readings from,
>i.e. is there even a problem


yes. non-US ones read Celcius. 90 is just the middle position and
both my A3 Golfs read that always.

>
>anyway the best way I have found to fill a VW engine is to remove the
>upper rad hose, and fill through that... then fill the radiator as
>well... (use a flexible funnel) then there won't be an air pocket
>around the thermostat and it will open as soon as the engine gets hot
>and burp the rest of the air up to the bottle.


yes. I do that and it works quite well, although mos of the time the first
time around it goes up to 100degrees and then drop to 90 as soon as
the air bleeds.

--
Eduardo K. | Some say it's forgive and forget.
http://www.carfun.cl | I say forget about forgiving just accept.
http://e.nn.cl | And get the hell out of town.
| Minnie Driver, Grosse Point Blank
 




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