alternator circuit question

This idea of installing an external voltage regulator to bypass
a faulty computer, doesn't work. I put one on and it charged at
14 volts for about a day, then it jumped to 18 volts. I tried a
different brand voltage regulator, and it did the same. The
battery is boiling and smells like sulfur, the high beams went
out, and I'm in the hole for 2 voltage regulators that work like
junk.

I have a 7 watt 1.2 ohm ceramic resistor out of a TV set. It
can only handle 2 amps. If I put it in series between the
regulator and the alternator field, it should drop the voltage
to the field by 3 volts. However, I think I need a heavier duty
resistor.

Jon

Jon G. wrote:

> I have a 91 Plymouth Acclaim, and the alternator doesn't charge the
> battery. I took the alternator out and had it tested, and there's
> nothing wrong with it. I put a new battery in it, but it still won't
> charge. I checked the fuseable link from the alternator to the battery,
> and there is continuity. Therefore, it must be the computer.
>
> there are 4 connections on the alternator
>
> L1: direct to battery, positive
> L2: direct to battery, negative
> c1: small wire, logic, to computer, activates diode
> c2: small wire, logic, to computer, also battery ground.
>
> I want to activate the alternator continuously and put on an external
> voltage regulator.
>
> What must the voltage (and current), to the logic inputs c1 & c2 be to
> do so?
>
> I have in mind to run a potentiometer between L1 and c1, and adjust it
> until the alternator kicks on.
>
> The schematic shows that c1 goes to the coil of a transformer in the
> alternator, which then goes to one of the diodes (an SCR?)

Jon, Surf back a few weeks, this problem has been addressed recently.


On Wed, 22 Dec 2004 00:33:04 GMT, "Jon G." >
wrote:

>This idea of installing an external voltage regulator to bypass
>a faulty computer, doesn't work. I put one on and it charged at
>14 volts for about a day, then it jumped to 18 volts. I tried a
>different brand voltage regulator, and it did the same. The
>battery is boiling and smells like sulfur, the high beams went
>out, and I'm in the hole for 2 voltage regulators that work like
>junk.
>
>I have a 7 watt 1.2 ohm ceramic resistor out of a TV set. It
>can only handle 2 amps. If I put it in series between the
>regulator and the alternator field, it should drop the voltage
>to the field by 3 volts. However, I think I need a heavier duty
>resistor.
>
>Jon
>
>Jon G. wrote:
>
>> I have a 91 Plymouth Acclaim, and the alternator doesn't charge the
>> battery. I took the alternator out and had it tested, and there's
>> nothing wrong with it. I put a new battery in it, but it still won't
>> charge. I checked the fuseable link from the alternator to the battery,
>> and there is continuity. Therefore, it must be the computer.
>>
>> there are 4 connections on the alternator
>>
>> L1: direct to battery, positive
>> L2: direct to battery, negative
>> c1: small wire, logic, to computer, activates diode
>> c2: small wire, logic, to computer, also battery ground.
>>
>> I want to activate the alternator continuously and put on an external
>> voltage regulator.
>>
>> What must the voltage (and current), to the logic inputs c1 & c2 be to
>> do so?
>>
>> I have in mind to run a potentiometer between L1 and c1, and adjust it
>> until the alternator kicks on.
>>
>> The schematic shows that c1 goes to the coil of a transformer in the
>> alternator, which then goes to one of the diodes (an SCR?)


...Jim Thompson
--
| James E.Thompson, P.E. | mens |
| Analog Innovations, Inc. | et |
| Analog/Mixed-Signal ASIC's and Discrete Systems | manus |
| Phoenix, Arizona Voice480)460-2350 | |
| E-mail Address at Website Fax480)460-2142 | Brass Rat |
| http://www.analog-innovations.com | 1962 |

I love to cook with wine. Sometimes I even put it in the food.

Jon, Surf back a few weeks, this problem has been addressed recently.


On Wed, 22 Dec 2004 00:33:04 GMT, "Jon G." >
wrote:

>This idea of installing an external voltage regulator to bypass
>a faulty computer, doesn't work. I put one on and it charged at
>14 volts for about a day, then it jumped to 18 volts. I tried a
>different brand voltage regulator, and it did the same. The
>battery is boiling and smells like sulfur, the high beams went
>out, and I'm in the hole for 2 voltage regulators that work like
>junk.
>
>I have a 7 watt 1.2 ohm ceramic resistor out of a TV set. It
>can only handle 2 amps. If I put it in series between the
>regulator and the alternator field, it should drop the voltage
>to the field by 3 volts. However, I think I need a heavier duty
>resistor.
>
>Jon
>
>Jon G. wrote:
>
>> I have a 91 Plymouth Acclaim, and the alternator doesn't charge the
>> battery. I took the alternator out and had it tested, and there's
>> nothing wrong with it. I put a new battery in it, but it still won't
>> charge. I checked the fuseable link from the alternator to the battery,
>> and there is continuity. Therefore, it must be the computer.
>>
>> there are 4 connections on the alternator
>>
>> L1: direct to battery, positive
>> L2: direct to battery, negative
>> c1: small wire, logic, to computer, activates diode
>> c2: small wire, logic, to computer, also battery ground.
>>
>> I want to activate the alternator continuously and put on an external
>> voltage regulator.
>>
>> What must the voltage (and current), to the logic inputs c1 & c2 be to
>> do so?
>>
>> I have in mind to run a potentiometer between L1 and c1, and adjust it
>> until the alternator kicks on.
>>
>> The schematic shows that c1 goes to the coil of a transformer in the
>> alternator, which then goes to one of the diodes (an SCR?)


...Jim Thompson
--
| James E.Thompson, P.E. | mens |
| Analog Innovations, Inc. | et |
| Analog/Mixed-Signal ASIC's and Discrete Systems | manus |
| Phoenix, Arizona Voice480)460-2350 | |
| E-mail Address at Website Fax480)460-2142 | Brass Rat |
| http://www.analog-innovations.com | 1962 |

I love to cook with wine. Sometimes I even put it in the food.

How about going to the local salvage yard and buying a used computer instead
of putting yourself through all that other crap?


"Jon G." > wrote in message
ink.net...
> This idea of installing an external voltage regulator to bypass a faulty
> computer, doesn't work. I put one on and it charged at 14 volts for about
> a day, then it jumped to 18 volts. I tried a different brand voltage
> regulator, and it did the same. The battery is boiling and smells like
> sulfur, the high beams went out, and I'm in the hole for 2 voltage
> regulators that work like junk.
>
> I have a 7 watt 1.2 ohm ceramic resistor out of a TV set. It can only
> handle 2 amps. If I put it in series between the regulator and the
> alternator field, it should drop the voltage to the field by 3 volts.
> However, I think I need a heavier duty resistor.
>
> Jon
>
> Jon G. wrote:
>
>> I have a 91 Plymouth Acclaim, and the alternator doesn't charge the
>> battery. I took the alternator out and had it tested, and there's
>> nothing wrong with it. I put a new battery in it, but it still won't
>> charge. I checked the fuseable link from the alternator to the battery,
>> and there is continuity. Therefore, it must be the computer.
>>
>> there are 4 connections on the alternator
>>
>> L1: direct to battery, positive
>> L2: direct to battery, negative
>> c1: small wire, logic, to computer, activates diode
>> c2: small wire, logic, to computer, also battery ground.
>>
>> I want to activate the alternator continuously and put on an external
>> voltage regulator.
>>
>> What must the voltage (and current), to the logic inputs c1 & c2 be to do
>> so?
>>
>> I have in mind to run a potentiometer between L1 and c1, and adjust it
>> until the alternator kicks on.
>>
>> The schematic shows that c1 goes to the coil of a transformer in the
>> alternator, which then goes to one of the diodes (an SCR?)




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How about going to the local salvage yard and buying a used computer instead
of putting yourself through all that other crap?


"Jon G." > wrote in message
ink.net...
> This idea of installing an external voltage regulator to bypass a faulty
> computer, doesn't work. I put one on and it charged at 14 volts for about
> a day, then it jumped to 18 volts. I tried a different brand voltage
> regulator, and it did the same. The battery is boiling and smells like
> sulfur, the high beams went out, and I'm in the hole for 2 voltage
> regulators that work like junk.
>
> I have a 7 watt 1.2 ohm ceramic resistor out of a TV set. It can only
> handle 2 amps. If I put it in series between the regulator and the
> alternator field, it should drop the voltage to the field by 3 volts.
> However, I think I need a heavier duty resistor.
>
> Jon
>
> Jon G. wrote:
>
>> I have a 91 Plymouth Acclaim, and the alternator doesn't charge the
>> battery. I took the alternator out and had it tested, and there's
>> nothing wrong with it. I put a new battery in it, but it still won't
>> charge. I checked the fuseable link from the alternator to the battery,
>> and there is continuity. Therefore, it must be the computer.
>>
>> there are 4 connections on the alternator
>>
>> L1: direct to battery, positive
>> L2: direct to battery, negative
>> c1: small wire, logic, to computer, activates diode
>> c2: small wire, logic, to computer, also battery ground.
>>
>> I want to activate the alternator continuously and put on an external
>> voltage regulator.
>>
>> What must the voltage (and current), to the logic inputs c1 & c2 be to do
>> so?
>>
>> I have in mind to run a potentiometer between L1 and c1, and adjust it
>> until the alternator kicks on.
>>
>> The schematic shows that c1 goes to the coil of a transformer in the
>> alternator, which then goes to one of the diodes (an SCR?)




-----------== Posted via Newsfeed.Com - Uncensored Usenet News ==----------
http://www.newsfeed.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World!
-----= Over 100,000 Newsgroups - Unlimited Fast Downloads - 19 Servers =-----

On Wed, 22 Dec 2004, Jon G. wrote:

> This idea of installing an external voltage regulator to bypass
> a faulty computer, doesn't work.

Works great if you do it right.

> I put one on and it charged at 14 volts for about a day, then it jumped
> to 18 volts. I tried a different brand voltage regulator, and it did
> the same.

Sounds a lot like you did it wrong. I bet I know exactly which step you
skipped 'cause you figured it was unnecessary. But there's a reason it was
written specifically into the procedure!

> I have a 7 watt 1.2 ohm ceramic resistor out of a TV set.

Quit ****in' around with resistors. Put the external regulator in
correctly and it'll do just fine for you, as it's done just fine for many
others before you and will do fine for many others after you.

On Wed, 22 Dec 2004, Jon G. wrote:

> This idea of installing an external voltage regulator to bypass
> a faulty computer, doesn't work.

Works great if you do it right.

> I put one on and it charged at 14 volts for about a day, then it jumped
> to 18 volts. I tried a different brand voltage regulator, and it did
> the same.

Sounds a lot like you did it wrong. I bet I know exactly which step you
skipped 'cause you figured it was unnecessary. But there's a reason it was
written specifically into the procedure!

> I have a 7 watt 1.2 ohm ceramic resistor out of a TV set.

Quit ****in' around with resistors. Put the external regulator in
correctly and it'll do just fine for you, as it's done just fine for many
others before you and will do fine for many others after you.

On Wed, 22 Dec 2004, Jon G. wrote:

> This idea of installing an external voltage regulator to bypass
> a faulty computer, doesn't work.

*snip stupid ideas about TV resistors*

It's also quite possible that you installed the external regulators
correctly, but your alternator's rotor is drawing excessive current, which
fried the ECM's voltage regulator and has fried your two externals. Parts
store alternator "testers" are very crude devices. I'd post the rotor
current draw spec, but the manuals are in my office.

DS

On Wed, 22 Dec 2004, Jon G. wrote:

> This idea of installing an external voltage regulator to bypass
> a faulty computer, doesn't work.

*snip stupid ideas about TV resistors*

It's also quite possible that you installed the external regulators
correctly, but your alternator's rotor is drawing excessive current, which
fried the ECM's voltage regulator and has fried your two externals. Parts
store alternator "testers" are very crude devices. I'd post the rotor
current draw spec, but the manuals are in my office.

DS

Jon G. wrote:

> This idea of installing an external voltage regulator to bypass a faulty
> computer, doesn't work. I put one on and it charged at 14 volts for
> about a day, then it jumped to 18 volts.

Of course it WORKS, but only if a bad regulator was the original problem.

You've most likely got a bad alternator rotor (shorting to ground) which
causes an over-charge condition. The regulator is on the GROUND side of
the rotor, so if the rotor is shorted to ground the regulator has
absolutely zero effect on the charge current.