If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. You may have to register before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below. |
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#1
|
|||
|
|||
Tail shaft bearing replacement part 2
See my previous post : Loose trans mainshaft. Car in question is 99 v6 AODE
'vert. Well I was able to get under there and replace the bearing and seal today. The whole job took about an hour. We had to turn down a seal puller 20 thousands to fit the old bearing and press it out (and press the new one in). The old bearing measured O.D. exactly what the new bearing measured, but the old bearing was oblong when measured I.D. Not really enough to see with the naked eye, but measurements varied by more than a few thousanths, proving the bearing was very worn. There is far much less play in the mainshaft with the slip-yoke installed now. Everything was easily accessable to get the tail shaft housing off of the trans with the trans still in the car, the bolts were all 13mm or 15mm, 6-point, except the pinion flange to driveshaft bolts, which are 12mm 12point. The vibe is gone, and the clunking is 99% better. There is still some clockwise-counterclockwise play, but enough that it is acceptabtle as tolerances inside the transmission. Not bad for 10 bux. Thanks to all for the input and help. Carl |
Ads |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
Tail shaft bearing replacement part 2
Carl wrote:
> See my previous post : Loose trans mainshaft. Car in question is 99 v6 AODE > 'vert. > > Well I was able to get under there and replace the bearing and seal today. > The whole job took about an hour. We had to turn down a seal puller 20 > thousands to fit the old bearing and press it out (and press the new one > in). > > The old bearing measured O.D. exactly what the new bearing measured, but the > old bearing was oblong when measured I.D. Not really enough to see with the > naked eye, but measurements varied by more than a few thousanths, proving > the bearing was very worn. There is far much less play in the mainshaft with > the slip-yoke installed now. > > Everything was easily accessable to get the tail shaft housing off of the > trans with the trans still in the car, the bolts were all 13mm or 15mm, > 6-point, except the pinion flange to driveshaft bolts, which are 12mm > 12point. > > The vibe is gone, and the clunking is 99% better. There is still some > clockwise-counterclockwise play, but enough that it is acceptabtle as > tolerances inside the transmission. Not bad for 10 bux. > > Thanks to all for the input and help. > > Carl > > Thanx for the info. Nice to know that not every job is a nightmare. -- ..boB On Order: 2006 FXDI, Red. 1997 HD FXDWG - Turbocharged Stolen 11/26/05 in Denver 1HD1GEL10VY3200010 CO License J5822Z 2001 Dodge Dakota QC 5.9/4x4/3.92 1966 Mustang Coupe - Daily Driver 1965 FFR Cobra - 427W EFI, Damn Fast. |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
Tail shaft bearing replacement part 2
definately need to have two 6" extensions or a 12" extension to get on the
top bolts with an air ratchet, but it wasn't bad. Carl ".boB" > wrote in message . com... > Carl wrote: > >> See my previous post : Loose trans mainshaft. Car in question is 99 v6 >> AODE et >> 'vert. >> >> Well I was able to get under there and replace the bearing and seal >> today. The whole job took about an hour. We had to turn down a seal >> puller 20 thousands to fit the old bearing and press it out (and press >> the new one in). >> >> The old bearing measured O.D. exactly what the new bearing measured, but >> the old bearing was oblong when measured I.D. Not really enough to see >> with the naked eye, but measurements varied by more than a few >> thousanths, proving the bearing was very worn. There is far much less >> play in the mainshaft with the slip-yoke installed now. >> >> Everything was easily accessable to get the tail shaft housing off of the >> trans with the trans still in the car, the bolts were all 13mm or 15mm, >> 6-point, except the pinion flange to driveshaft bolts, which are 12mm >> 12point. >> >> The vibe is gone, and the clunking is 99% better. There is still some >> clockwise-counterclockwise play, but enough that it is acceptabtle as >> tolerances inside the transmission. Not bad for 10 bux. >> >> Thanks to all for the input and help. >> >> Carl > Thanx for the info. Nice to know that not every job is a nightmare. > > -- > .boB > On Order: 2006 FXDI, Red. > 1997 HD FXDWG - Turbocharged Stolen 11/26/05 in Denver > 1HD1GEL10VY3200010 CO License J5822Z > 2001 Dodge Dakota QC 5.9/4x4/3.92 > 1966 Mustang Coupe - Daily Driver > 1965 FFR Cobra - 427W EFI, Damn Fast. > |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
throw out bearing replacement - 96 GT | [email protected] | Ford Mustang | 7 | March 2nd 06 02:41 AM |
63 roadster-rear spindle bearing replacement? | lib | Corvette | 1 | October 17th 05 06:14 PM |
some advice please | Pi-Eyed Piper | Jeep | 29 | September 28th 05 03:16 AM |
1996 Dodge Grand Caravan LE AC/Heater Blower, Relay and Resistor Block Problems 101 | HeadlessHorseman | Dodge | 0 | January 5th 05 02:49 PM |
A-4 drive shaft replacement | Rob Alward | Audi | 3 | November 15th 04 03:18 PM |