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#11
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On Thu, 10 Feb 2005 04:12:08 +1100, RV > wrote:
>On Wed, 09 Feb 2005 09:44:17 -0600, Bob Urz > >wrote: > >> >> wrote: >> >>> I need your opinions on this. >>> >>> A friend told me that a thermostat in a car is not necessary for proper >>> engine operation and that the thermostat is mainly there to provide >>> heat for people in the car. He said that cooler engines run better, are >>> more powerful, last a lot longer, and provides more protection for >>> gaskets. When the thermostats on his cars go bad, he takes them out >>> altogether and runs without one. If needed, he even hooks a portable >>> electric heater in his vehicles to get heat in the winter. He loves his >>> engines to run very cool. When I ride with him, the temperature gauge >>> in his cars never even move past 'C'. >>> >>> What do you think of this? Would it be alright to take the thermostat >>> out of my car and drive without one if mine ever goes bad? I drive a >>> '91 Plymouth Sundance w/ 2.5l engine. >>> >> >>You can take the hood and the truck lid off also since there not >>required for normal operation. Add the jack and the spare tire. >>That ought to buy you a few MPG. >> > >Definately >Trunk lid should go too, waste of space > >May as well drop the exhaust system, reduce weight and give others >some advance audible wanring of his approach on the highway. >It works for Harley Davidsons > >In addition to that, if he has no family and no likelyhood of every >having a girl friend, he could remove all the seats and mats, except >the drivers seat of course. >In addition to removing weight, he would then have space to start a >small camp fire for heating and demisting, instead of having to use an >electric heater as is friend apparently does. > When I was 16 I drove my used Fiat from Rhode Island to St Petersburg Florida and back ( to visit grandma ). About Georgia, it got so damn hot inside the car ( no A/C ) that the engine was overheating. I just took the hood off from over the engine, and that worked well enough to keep it from boiling over. Too long ago to remember where I stored the hood. Maybe in the back seat. When it began to rain later on ( I hit a few cloudbursts ) I put it back on again. I was doing 500 miles/day in that "thing." Only needed new tires to get back to Rhode Island, otherwise the little train that could, did. Truly an amazing feat considering the engine was just a little 4 cylinder job, probably comparable to what you would find in a Geo or Civic. The car had a 4-speed shift on the steering column, with straight forward and down for reverse. H-pattern for 1st through 4th, and from neutral, straight forward and down for reverse. I wish I still had that thing, the gas economy was amazing. Lg |
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#12
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| > I need your opinions on this
mysterious posters get no info fr me | The engine becomes more efficient the hotter it gets Ridiculous ; both intake air & fuel should be as cool as possible, exactly as per 1 article in www.circletrack.com . After I replaced my F20A's short & cheap 4into1 manifold & its 2 covers, with a long 4-2-1 manifold, water temperature dropped, torque @ even low rpm was higher , >twice as much @ high rpm. |
#13
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#14
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"Don Stauffer in Minneapolis" > wrote in message ... > Highest efficiency is obtained with NO cooling- the so-called > adiabatic engine. R&D has not been able to make these work yet, as no > lubricants have yet been found to run at the very high temperatures in > an adiabatic engine. I think it's actually 3 things: NOx, suitable materials (i.e. ceramic) at a reasonable cost, and lubricants for high temp that need to be solved before they can leave R&D labs. > Your friend may have been confused with intake air temperature. Engine > develops more power with cooler intake air. But not with lower coolant > temps. That's very likely. |
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#17
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"Bruce Chang" > wrote in
. com: > As far as I understand, exhaust gasses are routed back into the intake > to reduce NOx, not to heat up the intake. The intake air isn't > diluted with exhaust gasses until the engine has started to warm up > anyhow. > Actually, IIRC, on newer engines, they route the exhaust gas back in to help warm up the engine and fire off the cat faster. > Some engines use the heat from the exhaust manifold to heat the intake > to help atomize the fuel a little better but it's not exhaust gasses. > > The messing of the emissions is based on the warm up enrichment that > the computer uses while the engine is still undergoing warm up. > And if the engine never reaches Op temp, that enrichment doesn't stop. -- Anthony You can't 'idiot proof' anything....every time you try, they just make better idiots. Remove sp to reply via email |
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#19
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"Raybender" > wrote in message ... > wrote: > >> I need your opinions on this. > Ideal way to do all of the following... > > 1. Carbon up cylinders > 2. Burn out catalytic converter from rich mixture > 3. Increase engine wear by diluting oil with gasoline > 4. Build up a nice deposit of sludge in the oil galleries > 5. Fail any decent smog check > > Frank > And the only upside is a small "perception" of increased horsepower. Bob |
#20
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On Wed, 9 Feb 2005 19:51:25 -0600, "Bob" > wrote:
> >"Raybender" > wrote in message ... >> wrote: >> >>> I need your opinions on this. >> Ideal way to do all of the following... >> >> 1. Carbon up cylinders >> 2. Burn out catalytic converter from rich mixture >> 3. Increase engine wear by diluting oil with gasoline >> 4. Build up a nice deposit of sludge in the oil galleries >> 5. Fail any decent smog check >> >> Frank >> > >And the only upside is a small "perception" of increased horsepower. > Bob > Take Bob's word for it Raybender, Bob is KNOWN for "small perceptions." He's an expert at them. Lg |
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