How to remove and replace a snap ring in a FWD car

micky wrote:

SNIP

>
> I'll do that.

> No, like everyone else, you're assuming they have holes in the ends.
>
> I should have said explicitly that they don't, but I was concentrating
> on what they do.
>
> Tegger is right about needing cup-end, but they are not common.
> I've googled for "cup end" directly and if that is not the right name,
> I looked at all the snap-ring pliers that Grainger sells, Autozone (a
> lot more than are in the store). I should try Snap-On and I forget the
> other big name in auto tools. None at Snap-on afaict.

What you are looking for are lock ring pliers. BUT the type you need are
usually sold as transmission tools.

What should work in place of them are hose clamp pliers used for the
round spring clamps. But unless you really need them I'd go a cheaper route.

Start with something like these

http://www.harborfreight.com/hand-to...ers-97609.html
or
http://www.harborfreight.com/hand-to...set-38598.html

Open the jaws and grind a groove in them in the direction you need.



>
>
> I still have to finish the brake job. I"ll try to see if, with the
> proper pliers if they make them I could have used cup-end pliers from
> the side, the wheel well. But I doubt it. The "tulip" is in the way,
> so I can only see the ring from an angle, and the pliers would have to
> 15 to 18" long.
>
> Length would not be a problem if they made pliers I could use from
> underneath, shaped like an F, where the squeezing was at the bottom and
> the two jaws were the horizontal parts of the F. They could make such
> things, but I don't think they do. Since the ends of the snap ring
> were at 8 and 10, the pliers would come up along side the drive shaft,
> and the cup would hold the ends of the ring.
>
> They do make a socket ratchet where one turns the socket by squeezing
> the handles at the end, for places where there is no room to move the
> whole wrench.
>
>


--
Steve W.