brake questions

"newman" > wrote in
news:RV06j.29600$AX6.27078@trnddc07:

> You may very well be correct. I did a search and found that there is
> much disagreement on whether to use them or just leave them out.
>
> But I checked the local Honda dealer online for parts. The screws
> appear to just cost 47 cents each. For that price, I'll just play it
> safe and reinstall them.
>
> Any tips on removing the rotors one I drill out the screws?



See here for my own description, based on very much experience
with this very thing:
<http://groups.google.com/group/alt.autos.toyota/browse_frm/thread/19225956d59e45c2/2096a6c0819cdc56?lnk=st&q=#2096a6c0819cdc56>


--
Tegger

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

z wrote:
> On Dec 3, 10:00 pm, Al > wrote:
>> newman wrote:
>>> The fellow at the auto supply said that you don't really need to replace the
>>> two phillips screws. Just drill them out and use rubber hammer to coax
>>> rotor off, then don't use any on machined rotors.
>> I wish the auto supply fellow would get a job at Honda and get them to
>> stop putting all those unnecessary parts on their cars.
>
> Honestly, I think the screws are just to keep the rotors from falling
> off on the assembly line before the wheels get put on, when everything
> is new and nonrusty and not stuck. don't most manufacturers have
> similar screws on the rotors? I've seen a looooot of guys who don't
> put them back when they finally get the rotors loose. it's not as if
> the two philips screws are going to pull the rotor tight against the
> hub through all the rust and crud, when the wheel stud nuts won't.

that's pretty much it. they help with assembly, but mean nothing to the
integrity of the mechanicals.

I use the Harbor Freight caliper tool set for this on all corners.
It's often on sale for $19.99.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=40732

Wagnor might have rebox the pads from other manufacturers. The later
OEM Findlex (?) seem to last longer than the OEM Nissin. But I always
put Akebono ceramics on all cars I help work on.

www.akebonobrakes.com



On Dec 2, 5:11 pm, "newman" > wrote:
> Was replacing the pads on my 99 Accord and had some difficulty pressing the
> rear brake pistons back.
>
> The rear brake pistons are somewhat different from front pistons. They have
> a slot in them. I ended up turning the piston clockwise using a larger
> screwdriver (in the slot) in order to get it to depress. I had to do this
> on both sides.
>
> I also wanted to machine the front rotors but could not get the two phillips
> screws out. Even used an impact driver-the bit broke in the phillips head.
>
> The front pads, however, were in good shape so I did not replace them. But
> I wonder how one removes the two phillips screws in order to remove the
> rotor.
>
> Any advice appreciated. The brakes are working OK.
>
> Thanks
>
> 1999 Accord EX 4 cyl
> 4 wheel disc brakes
> 118000 miles

On Dec 6, 8:53 pm, Tegger > wrote:
> "newman" > wrote innews:RV06j.29600$AX6.27078@trnddc07:
>
> > You may very well be correct. I did a search and found that there is
> > much disagreement on whether to use them or just leave them out.
>
> > But I checked the local Honda dealer online for parts. The screws
> > appear to just cost 47 cents each. For that price, I'll just play it
> > safe and reinstall them.
>
> > Any tips on removing the rotors one I drill out the screws?
>
> See here for my own description, based on very much experience
> with this very thing:
> <http://groups.google.com/group/alt.autos.toyota/browse_frm/thread/192...>
>
> --
> Tegger
>
> The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQwww.tegger.com/hondafaq/

I don't think it's true for Hondas, but one of my cars; maybe the
Mitsubishi (Plymouth Sapporo)? had a neat deal; if you managed to get
the two stupid little philips screws out of the rotor, there were two
additional threaded holes at 90 degrees to them where you could drive
the philips screws in, and they would bottom against the hub and bust
the rotor free. Of course, by the time a rotor got so crudded onto the
hub, the screws were well frozen in, and the threaded holes were
pretty corroded, but at least it's a nice thought.

z > wrote in
:


>
> I don't think it's true for Hondas, but one of my cars; maybe the
> Mitsubishi (Plymouth Sapporo)? had a neat deal; if you managed to get
> the two stupid little philips screws out of the rotor, there were two
> additional threaded holes at 90 degrees to them where you could drive
> the philips screws in, and they would bottom against the hub and bust
> the rotor free.



Hondas and Toyotas have this as well. You'll see those holes in the photos
I referenced in my previous message.

But if the rotors are frozen to the hubs as in the example I referenced,
bolts in those little holes will do bugger all except crack the face of the
top hat.

That sort of rust which gets bad enough to hook the rotor onto the hub
seems to be something almost unique to the North-east of the US and Canada.
Posters outside this region do not seem to be able to get a handle on just
how bad it can be.


--
Tegger

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

On Dec 10, 5:37 pm, Tegger > wrote:
> z > wrote :
>
>
>
> > I don't think it's true for Hondas, but one of my cars; maybe the
> > Mitsubishi (Plymouth Sapporo)? had a neat deal; if you managed to get
> > the two stupid little philips screws out of the rotor, there were two
> > additional threaded holes at 90 degrees to them where you could drive
> > the philips screws in, and they would bottom against the hub and bust
> > the rotor free.
>
> Hondas and Toyotas have this as well. You'll see those holes in the photos
> I referenced in my previous message.
>
> But if the rotors are frozen to the hubs as in the example I referenced,
> bolts in those little holes will do bugger all except crack the face of the
> top hat.
>
> That sort of rust which gets bad enough to hook the rotor onto the hub
> seems to be something almost unique to the North-east of the US and Canada.
> Posters outside this region do not seem to be able to get a handle on just
> how bad it can be.
>
> --
> Tegger
>
> The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQwww.tegger.com/hondafaq/

It's a good thing; holds the car together.