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Starting Problems
I have a 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee, and for about two weeks now its taking
alot longer to start, normally it will start right up within the first crank, but now it will crank over 5 to 6 times before starting... What could that be? |
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#2
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You need spark plugs: http://www.billhughes.com/WJLubeSchedule.jpg
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O McNick wrote: > > I have a 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee, and for about two weeks now its taking > alot longer to start, normally it will start right up within the first > crank, but now it will crank over 5 to 6 times before starting... What > could that be? |
#3
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#4
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I have Brand New spark plugs, that was the first think I replaced...
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#5
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It will start up great if you turn it off then start it again, but when you
let it sit for about a hou, it will be hard to start again, It is hard to start about 90% of the time, Could you help? |
#6
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Possibly a battery getting weak.
Have it load tested and if it's getting weak replace it before you wake up to a dead battery in 20 degree weather!!! Good Luck! Jim Smith "McNick" > wrote in message lkaboutautos.com... >I have Brand New spark plugs, that was the first think I >replaced... > |
#7
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I will Try it, Thanks
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#8
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fuel pump bleding down
McNick wrote: > It will start up great if you turn it off then start it again, but when you > let it sit for about a hou, it will be hard to start again, It is hard to > start about 90% of the time, Could you help? |
#9
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McNick did pass the time by typing:
> It will start up great if you turn it off then start it again, but when you > let it sit for about a hou, it will be hard to start again, It is hard to > start about 90% of the time, Could you help? Fuel pressure bleed off. Could be the regulator or the valve in the fuel pump is letting the rail pressure drop. Figuring out which one is not easy without the tools for shutting off the supply lines. Stick a fuel pressure gauge on there and see what it says. (an old R-12 low side gauge makes a good tester since you can tape it to the windshield) In the meanwhile turn the key on, wait for the fuel pump to stop buzzing then turn the key off, then back on again, after the buzz then start. -- DougW |
#10
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Info from manual
FUEL PRESSURE LEAK DOWN TEST Use this test in conjunction with the Fuel Pump Pressure Test and Fuel Pump Capacity Test. Check Valve Operation: The electric fuel pump outlet contains a one-way check valve to prevent fuel flow back into the tank and to maintain fuel supply line pressure (engine warm) when pump is not operational. It is also used to keep the fuel supply line full of gasoline when pump is not operational. After the vehicle has cooled down, fuel pressure may drop to 0 psi (cold fluid contracts), but liquid gasoline will remain in fuel supply line between the check valve and fuel injectors. Fuel pressure that has dropped to 0 psi on a cooled down vehicle (engine off) is a normal condition. When the electric fuel pump is activated, fuel pressure should immediately (1–2 seconds) rise to specification. Abnormally long periods of cranking to restart a hot engine that has been shut down for a short period of time may be caused by: ² Fuel pressure bleeding past a fuel injector(s). ² Fuel pressure bleeding past the check valve in the fuel pump module. (1) Disconnect the fuel inlet line at fuel rail. Refer to Fuel Tubes/Lines/Hoses and Clamps in this section of the group for procedures. On some engines, air cleaner housing removal may be necessary before fuel line disconnection. (2) Obtain correct Fuel Line Pressure Test Adapter Tool Hose. Tool number 6539 is used for 5/16” fuel lines and tool number 6631 is used for 3/8” fuel lines. (3) Connect correct Fuel Line Pressure Test Adapter Tool Hose between disconnected fuel line and fuel rail (Fig. 11). (4) Connect the 0-414 kPa (0-60 psi) fuel pressure test gauge (from Gauge Set 5069) to the test port on the appropriate Adaptor Tool. The fittings on both tools must be in good condition and free from any small leaks before performing the proceeding test. (5) Start engine and bring to normal operating temperature. (6) Observe test gauge. Normal operating pressure should be 339 kPa 6 34 kPa (49.2 psi 6 5 psi). (7) Shut engine off. (8) Pressure should not fall below 30 psi for five minutes. (9) If pressure falls below 30 psi, it must be determined if a fuel injector, the check valve within the fuel pump module, or a fuel tube/line is leaking. (10) Again, start engine and bring to normal operating temperature. (11) Shut engine off. (12) Testing for fuel injector or fuel rail leakage: Clamp off the rubber hose portion of Adaptor Tool between the fuel rail and the test port “T” on Adapter Tool. If pressure now holds at or above 30 psi, a fuel injector or the fuel rail is leaking. (13) Testing for fuel pump check valve, filter/ regulator check valve or fuel tube/line leakage: Clamp off the rubber hose portion of Adaptor Tool between the vehicle fuel line and test port “T” on Adapter Tool. If pressure now holds at or above 30 psi, a leak may be found at a fuel tube/line. If no leaks are found at fuel tubes or lines, one of the check valves in either the electric fuel pump or filter/ regulator may be leaking. Note: A quick loss of pressure usually indicates a defective check valve in the filter/regulator. A slow loss of pressure usually indicates a defective check valve in the electric fuel pump. The electric fuel pump is not serviced separately. Replace the fuel pump module assembly. The filter/regulator may be replaced separately on certain applications. Refer to Fuel Filter/Fuel Pressure Regulator Removal/Installation for additional information. -- (remove SPAM) 2002 Jeep WJ 4 Liter Automatic Sharing is why we are all here....... or should be. .. "DougW" > wrote in message news:%J1%e.8397$P34.2425@okepread07... > McNick did pass the time by typing: >> It will start up great if you turn it off then start it again, but when >> you >> let it sit for about a hou, it will be hard to start again, It is hard to >> start about 90% of the time, Could you help? > > Fuel pressure bleed off. Could be the regulator or the valve in the fuel > pump is letting the rail pressure drop. Figuring out which one is not > easy > without the tools for shutting off the supply lines. > > Stick a fuel pressure gauge on there and see what it says. > (an old R-12 low side gauge makes a good tester since you can tape it > to the windshield) > > In the meanwhile turn the key on, wait for the fuel pump to stop buzzing > then turn the key off, then back on again, after the buzz then start. > > -- > DougW > |
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