Corvette oil change

Still a bit cold but nice enough to get the '72 out and was going to
change the oil first. My question is do any of you have it tested for
contamination during the winter storage? If so I was wondering what
kind of water content shows up? Mine is kept in a warm garage and with
a dehumidifier running but I still see moisture form on the other cars
not in that section of the garage. Does any of that collect inside the
engine block? Remember this car has an open crankcase breathing
system, and an open fuel induction (carburetion).

--
Dad
05 C6 Silver/Red 6spd Z51
72 Shark Black/Black/4spd

Its always best to change the oil BEFORE winter storage because used oil
is acidic (especially after a seasons use) and is harmful to bearing
surfaces , etc.. Ive never had my oil tested when taking the vette out
of storage , but, if there is any moisture in the oil, getting the
motor good and hot during a long run will boil off whats there. I think
its great that you store it in a heated garage with
dehumidifier...especially if you can have the heat blown directly on the
crankcase. On dry days during the winter, i often go for a 10 mile
drive with the 1970 and get her fully warmed up -- I think this helps
keep condensation to a minimum inside the motor over long storage. If
you want your oil analyzed , Amsoil.com offers a reasonably priced kit
that you fill with oil and send in for a written analysis.

Dave
1970 BB
2006 LS2

Any moisture collected will go away when the engine is warmed up and driven.
I'd drive it, get everything completely up to operating temp, then
change the oil.
What moisture that would be there would be no where near enough to do
any harm to anything on the initial drive and warm up.

If you are a little skittish just pull the distributor and do the drill
on the oil pump shaft
before the initial fire up. (you can fab up a drill shaft or buy one)
but I wouldn't be
worried about it really. Just get it up to temp, (block, heads and
everything, not just fluids)
and then dump the old oil.

Dad wrote:

>Still a bit cold but nice enough to get the '72 out and was going to
>change the oil first. My question is do any of you have it tested for
>contamination during the winter storage? If so I was wondering what
>kind of water content shows up? Mine is kept in a warm garage and with
>a dehumidifier running but I still see moisture form on the other cars
>not in that section of the garage. Does any of that collect inside the
>engine block? Remember this car has an open crankcase breathing
>system, and an open fuel induction (carburetion).
>
>
>

--
Ric Seyler
Online Racing: RicSeyler
GPL Handicap 6.35

http://www.pcola.gulf.net/~ricseyler
remove –SPAM- from email address
--------------------------------------
"Homer no function beer well without."
- H.J. Simpson

"RicSeyler" > wrote in message
...
> Any moisture collected will go away when the engine is warmed up and
> driven.
> I'd drive it, get everything completely up to operating temp, then
> change the oil.
That's how I alway change the oil.
> What moisture that would be there would be no where near enough to
> do
> any harm to anything on the initial drive and warm up.
I understand that, my question is still if anyone has ever had an
actual test run to see what was in the mix after being idle for a
winter? I've heard of some people that change it before they put it
away and then again when they get it out. I was just wondering where
that paranoia might have come from. It was due an oil change without
reguard to the time of year, or how long it sat, just miles.
> If you are a little skittish just pull the distributor and do the
> drill on the oil pump shaft
> before the initial fire up.
Quit doing that in the sixties.
>(you can fab up a drill shaft or buy one) but I wouldn't be
> worried about it really. Just get it up to temp, (block, heads and
> everything, not just fluids)
> and then dump the old oil.
I guess I formed my question wrong, I don't want to test it before
starting it, I had it out in January. It needs not to be tested while
in storage, just wanted to know how much water content may actually
get in the oil during that period. I take it from the replies that no
one has every had a test run on their oil.

Got the oil change done this morning and tried the 4 barrels a few
times. Got many a stare in town when I topped off the tank. Found a
bit of salt dust on the back but didn't mind cleaning it up in
exchange for a fun drive. Didn't take the roof panels off even though
it got to a sweltering 36 degrees.

Dad
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Dad wrote:
> "RicSeyler" > wrote in message
> ...
>> Any moisture collected will go away when the engine is warmed up and
>> driven.
>> I'd drive it, get everything completely up to operating temp, then
>> change the oil.
> That's how I alway change the oil.
>> What moisture that would be there would be no where near enough to
>> do
>> any harm to anything on the initial drive and warm up.
> I understand that, my question is still if anyone has ever had an
> actual test run to see what was in the mix after being idle for a
> winter? I've heard of some people that change it before they put it
> away and then again when they get it out. I was just wondering where
> that paranoia might have come from. It was due an oil change without
> reguard to the time of year, or how long it sat, just miles.
>> If you are a little skittish just pull the distributor and do the
>> drill on the oil pump shaft
>> before the initial fire up.
> Quit doing that in the sixties.
>> (you can fab up a drill shaft or buy one) but I wouldn't be
>> worried about it really. Just get it up to temp, (block, heads and
>> everything, not just fluids)
>> and then dump the old oil.
> I guess I formed my question wrong, I don't want to test it before
> starting it, I had it out in January. It needs not to be tested while
> in storage, just wanted to know how much water content may actually
> get in the oil during that period. I take it from the replies that no
> one has every had a test run on their oil.
>
> Got the oil change done this morning and tried the 4 barrels a few
> times. Got many a stare in town when I topped off the tank. Found a
> bit of salt dust on the back but didn't mind cleaning it up in
> exchange for a fun drive. Didn't take the roof panels off even though
> it got to a sweltering 36 degrees.
>
> Dad

Yeah, hot but easy commute this morning--not too much traffic. Many
civil servants are taking the week off--4 days charged for 9 continuous
days off. Just us taxpayers out there on the concrete! No OAT in the
C4 but had to turn the A/C on to MAX for a bunch of miles. Spent 8
years doing ship surveyor work and watched a lot lube oil management in
marine and fixed base machinery applications. Have been around aviation
oil analysis programs for years as well. Shipboard and fixed based
scheme is to not worry about testing for water that will be eliminated
by purifying the lube oil. Tests are done for metals found in bearings,
pumps, cylinder walls and plating. For water, just run circulate it
through a heater and DeLaval lube oil purifier and back to the tank for
several hours before rolling the machinery (turbines, diesels, reduction
gear etc.) Some aviation pre-oilers have a two stage filter
--particulate filter plus a coalescer to remove water.

I think the Corvette storage problem is tough to generalize from car to
car or location to location. Base oil (parafin, asphaltic etc.) will
make a difference in hygroscopic qualities (check Wikipedia if 10th
grade chemistry is just early history.) Anti-foam and detergent
additives will further screw up comparisons from one stored car to the next.

Just for chuckles, I did a Google for "hygroscopic and Mobile One." Was
surprised to find that synthetics were much more hygroscopic than
conventional oils; so, during the winter Mobil One will pump more water
into the sump than will the 39 cent stuff from the corner drug store.

If I was really paranoid about condensation, I'd not put synthetic in
the car when laying it up for storage. Coming out of storage, I'd drain
off a quart or so of oil when pulling it out of storage. Add a quart or
two of 5W synthetic (to scavenge moisture) then start and warm the
engine. Drain the crankcase, fill it with your favorite stuff and enjoy
the ride.

--
…PJ
’89 HookerCar, ’02 E-blu 6-spd Coupe

I think for most people, they can simply run the car to heat it up, then
dump the oil. Put in new and any water issues are gone. While most logic
is not to sit and idle to warm an engine, if you do right out of storage you
are not putting any load on the bearing surfaces where you would have a
problem due to water.

So you let the water temp come to 180 or 210 or whatever your normal is,
keep it there for 5 minutes so the oil temp is also up to normal, and you
should have boiled all the water out of the inside. Normal oil temp will be
220 to 250 in most cars, so the water is gone.

UNLESS, you had so much water it has raised the level and you now have foam
inside.

It is still a good idea to dump the stored oil because:

1. rust washed off during start up
2. acids
3. any fuel contamination from sitting
4. chemical breakdown from contaminants

The best way is simply drive them all year long. While I'm not a fan of
starting them to warm them up while in cold storage, if you run them long
enough to heat the mufflers hot, then you have driven out the moisture.
That usually is at least a half hour sitting and you need to be revving it
up some, not just idling.


"PJ" > wrote in message ...
> pumps, cylinder walls and plating. For water, just run circulate it
> through a heater and DeLaval lube oil purifier and back to the tank for
> several hours before rolling the machinery (turbines, diesels, reduction
> gear etc.) Some aviation pre-oilers have a two stage filter --particulate
> filter plus a coalescer to remove water.
>
> I think the Corvette storage problem is tough to generalize from car to
> car or location to location. Base oil (parafin, asphaltic etc.) will make
> a difference in hygroscopic qualities (check Wikipedia if 10th grade
> chemistry is just early history.) Anti-foam and detergent additives will
> further screw up comparisons from one stored car to the next.
>
> Just for chuckles, I did a Google for "hygroscopic and Mobile One." Was
> surprised to find that synthetics were much more hygroscopic than
> conventional oils; so, during the winter Mobil One will pump more water
> into the sump than will the 39 cent stuff from the corner drug store.
>
> If I was really paranoid about condensation, I'd not put synthetic in the
> car when laying it up for storage. Coming out of storage, I'd drain off a
> quart or so of oil when pulling it out of storage. Add a quart or two of
> 5W synthetic (to scavenge moisture) then start and warm the engine. Drain
> the crankcase, fill it with your favorite stuff and enjoy the ride.
>
> --
> …PJ
> ’89 HookerCar, ’02 E-blu 6-spd Coupe

"PJ" > wrote in message
...
> Yeah, hot but easy commute this morning--not too much traffic. Many
> civil servants are taking the week off--4 days charged for 9
> continuous days off. Just us taxpayers out there on the concrete!
> No OAT in the C4 but had to turn the A/C on to MAX for a bunch of
> miles. Spent 8 years doing ship surveyor work and watched a lot
> lube oil management in marine and fixed base machinery applications.
> Have been around aviation oil analysis programs for years as well.
> Shipboard and fixed based scheme is to not worry about testing for
> water that will be eliminated by purifying the lube oil. Tests are
> done for metals found in bearings, pumps, cylinder walls and
> plating. For water, just run circulate it through a heater and
> DeLaval lube oil purifier and back to the tank for several hours
> before rolling the machinery (turbines, diesels, reduction gear
> etc.) Some aviation pre-oilers have a two stage
> filter --particulate filter plus a coalescer to remove water.
>
> I think the Corvette storage problem is tough to generalize from car
> to car or location to location. Base oil (parafin, asphaltic etc.)
> will make a difference in hygroscopic qualities (check Wikipedia if
> 10th grade chemistry is just early history.) Anti-foam and
> detergent additives will further screw up comparisons from one
> stored car to the next.
>
> Just for chuckles, I did a Google for "hygroscopic and Mobile One."
> Was surprised to find that synthetics were much more hygroscopic
> than conventional oils; so, during the winter Mobil One will pump
> more water into the sump than will the 39 cent stuff from the corner
> drug store.
>
> If I was really paranoid about condensation, I'd not put synthetic
> in the car when laying it up for storage. Coming out of storage,
> I'd drain off a quart or so of oil when pulling it out of storage.
> Add a quart or two of 5W synthetic (to scavenge moisture) then start
> and warm the engine. Drain the crankcase, fill it with your
> favorite stuff and enjoy the ride.
>
> --
> …PJ
> ’89 HookerCar, ’02 E-blu 6-spd Coupe

I drained the first 1/2 quart out of the pan, before I warmed it up to
drain, into a glass beaker we used to separate and gage paint
particulates, (metal flake-iridescents) to see if any water shows up.
It has graduations and a chart to calculate volume of a tube like
container about .75 I.D. X 40 inches long. It also allows me to see if
there are any sediments in the oil such as the rust Tom mentioned. So
far I'm not seeing anything and don't think it will be a fine enough
gage of the oil's content. A white magnet didn't pick up any major
carbon content from the remaining oil and will filter it to see if
there are any other foreign materials. I know it's crude but I tend to
work with what I got, and it keeps me off the street. I hear so much
about what people think helps a car that sets a long time I thought it
would be interesting to check a few of the urban legends. My feelings
are that it is little difference than when you restart you car anytime
that it has had time to drain down.

I need to re-establish my faith in Wikipedia again after all of the
bogus information that was added last year.

The sad thing is that it does not keep me off the streets and I'm
headed to Ill-noise where all the left lane dwellers live and my CCW
is risky to use. They also have their share of pot holes this time of
year.

--
Dad
05 C6 Silver/Red 6spd Z51
72 Shark Black/Black/4spd

--
"Key"

"Dad" > wrote in message
...
>
> "PJ" > wrote in message
> ...
>> Yeah, hot but easy commute this morning--not too much
>> traffic. Many civil servants are taking the week off--4
>> days charged for 9 continuous days off. Just us
>> taxpayers out there on the concrete! No OAT in the C4 but
>> had to turn the A/C on to MAX for a bunch of miles.
>> Spent 8 years doing ship surveyor work and watched a lot
>> lube oil management in marine and fixed base machinery
>> applications. Have been around aviation oil analysis
>> programs for years as well. Shipboard and fixed based
>> scheme is to not worry about testing for water that will
>> be eliminated by purifying the lube oil. Tests are done
>> for metals found in bearings, pumps, cylinder walls and
>> plating. For water, just run circulate it through a
>> heater and DeLaval lube oil purifier and back to the tank
>> for several hours before rolling the machinery (turbines,
>> diesels, reduction gear etc.) Some aviation pre-oilers
>> have a two stage filter --particulate filter plus a
>> coalescer to remove water.
>>
>> I think the Corvette storage problem is tough to
>> generalize from car to car or location to location. Base
>> oil (parafin, asphaltic etc.) will make a difference in
>> hygroscopic qualities (check Wikipedia if 10th grade
>> chemistry is just early history.) Anti-foam and
>> detergent additives will further screw up comparisons
>> from one stored car to the next.
>>
>> Just for chuckles, I did a Google for "hygroscopic and
>> Mobile One." Was surprised to find that synthetics were
>> much more hygroscopic than conventional oils; so, during
>> the winter Mobil One will pump more water into the sump
>> than will the 39 cent stuff from the corner drug store.
>>
>> If I was really paranoid about condensation, I'd not put
>> synthetic in the car when laying it up for storage.
>> Coming out of storage, I'd drain off a quart or so of oil
>> when pulling it out of storage. Add a quart or two of 5W
>> synthetic (to scavenge moisture) then start and warm the
>> engine. Drain the crankcase, fill it with your favorite
>> stuff and enjoy the ride.
>>
>> --
>> …PJ
>> ’89 HookerCar, ’02 E-blu 6-spd Coupe
>
> I drained the first 1/2 quart out of the pan, before I
> warmed it up to drain, into a glass beaker we used to
> separate and gage paint particulates, (metal
> flake-iridescents) to see if any water shows up.

wouldn't think that any water would show up after draining
the first 1/2 quart out of the pan,
before warming it up.
water would come to the top instead of the bottom of the
pan.

my2¢
--
"Key"

"'Key" > wrote in message
...
>
>
> --
> "Key"
>
> "Dad" > wrote in message
> ...
>>
>> "PJ" > wrote in message
>> ...
>>> Yeah, hot but easy commute this morning--not too much traffic. Many
>>> civil servants are taking the week off--4 days charged for 9 continuous
>>> days off. Just us taxpayers out there on the concrete! No OAT in the C4
>>> but had to turn the A/C on to MAX for a bunch of miles. Spent 8 years
>>> doing ship surveyor work and watched a lot lube oil management in marine
>>> and fixed base machinery applications. Have been around aviation oil
>>> analysis programs for years as well. Shipboard and fixed based scheme is
>>> to not worry about testing for water that will be eliminated by
>>> purifying the lube oil. Tests are done for metals found in bearings,
>>> pumps, cylinder walls and plating. For water, just run circulate it
>>> through a heater and DeLaval lube oil purifier and back to the tank for
>>> several hours before rolling the machinery (turbines, diesels, reduction
>>> gear etc.) Some aviation pre-oilers have a two stage
>>> filter --particulate filter plus a coalescer to remove water.
>>>
>>> I think the Corvette storage problem is tough to generalize from car to
>>> car or location to location. Base oil (parafin, asphaltic etc.) will
>>> make a difference in hygroscopic qualities (check Wikipedia if 10th
>>> grade chemistry is just early history.) Anti-foam and detergent
>>> additives will further screw up comparisons from one stored car to the
>>> next.
>>>
>>> Just for chuckles, I did a Google for "hygroscopic and Mobile One." Was
>>> surprised to find that synthetics were much more hygroscopic than
>>> conventional oils; so, during the winter Mobil One will pump more water
>>> into the sump than will the 39 cent stuff from the corner drug store.
>>>
>>> If I was really paranoid about condensation, I'd not put synthetic in
>>> the car when laying it up for storage. Coming out of storage, I'd drain
>>> off a quart or so of oil when pulling it out of storage. Add a quart or
>>> two of 5W synthetic (to scavenge moisture) then start and warm the
>>> engine. Drain the crankcase, fill it with your favorite stuff and enjoy
>>> the ride.
>>>
>>> --
>>> …PJ
>>> ’89 HookerCar, ’02 E-blu 6-spd Coupe
>>
>> I drained the first 1/2 quart out of the pan, before I warmed it up to
>> drain, into a glass beaker we used to separate and gage paint
>> particulates, (metal flake-iridescents) to see if any water shows up.
>
> wouldn't think that any water would show up after draining the first 1/2
> quart out of the pan,
> before warming it up.
> water would come to the top instead of the bottom of the pan.
>
> my2¢
> --
> "Key"

oil floats on water.

"Charles Spitzer" > wrote in
message ...
>
> "'Key" > wrote in message
> ...

>> before warming it up.
>> water would come to the top instead of the bottom of the pan.
>>
>> my2¢
>> --
>> "Key"
>
> oil floats on water.
Sure does, that's what I get for not throwing my brain in gear some
times. May have to skim off the top of the used oil to get a better
reading on the water. Thanks for the gentle reminder.