A kit to back-flush a cooling system

What is group's opinion about a kit to back-flush a cooling system
(cut a hose to the heater and install the adapter).
Any answers are much appreciated. Thank you.

I've used the Prestone flush and fill kit on several vehicles with good
results. You need to take care to get the "T" fitting for the garden hose
in the correct heater hose and in a location that is fairly easy to access.

I always flush and fill with the old green Ethylene Glycol based coolant
every 2 years. I also use the Prestone flush per instructions on the bottle
as well. I've only had one radiator failure and that was due to leakage at
one of the seams. I am always amazed at how bad the water looks that comes
out, even after a complete drain and flush cycle. I think that the
backflushing using the water pressure from the garden hose does a much
better job than you could ever do with just draining and refilling with
water then draining again.

Bob.
"Jerry" > wrote in message
om...
> What is group's opinion about a kit to back-flush a cooling system
> (cut a hose to the heater and install the adapter).
> Any answers are much appreciated. Thank you.

In my experience those T's are nothing but a leak waiting to happen if
they're not already leaking. If you have a conventional green cooling
system you had better not go past 2 years between flushes. I dont drive
anything with conventional green coolant cooling systems anymore but
what I did was open the radiator drain every year and let what ever
drains out drain out then refill it. No "flushing", just drain and fill
"YEARLY". That put enough new corrosion inhibitors in the system to last
a year till the next drain and fill. You also dont end up with so much
waste to haul off that way.


In article >,
says...
> I've used the Prestone flush and fill kit on several vehicles with good
> results. You need to take care to get the "T" fitting for the garden hose
> in the correct heater hose and in a location that is fairly easy to access.
>
> I always flush and fill with the old green Ethylene Glycol based coolant
> every 2 years. I also use the Prestone flush per instructions on the bottle
> as well. I've only had one radiator failure and that was due to leakage at
> one of the seams. I am always amazed at how bad the water looks that comes
> out, even after a complete drain and flush cycle. I think that the
> backflushing using the water pressure from the garden hose does a much
> better job than you could ever do with just draining and refilling with
> water then draining again.
>
> Bob.
> "Jerry" > wrote in message
> om...
> > What is group's opinion about a kit to back-flush a cooling system
> > (cut a hose to the heater and install the adapter).
> > Any answers are much appreciated. Thank you.
>
>
>

I've had the original Prestone flush kit in my minivan now for almost 200k
miles. Yes, it is one more potential source for a leak but with firm
tightening, it has never been a problem. On the minivan, it was also good to
help purge air from the heater circuit (higher than the engine) by loosening
the cap on the tee after a refill. I actually had more problems with the
radiator drain plug leaking. But enough about Chrysler products here <g>.

It was always amazing how much schmutz came out when flushing out the
cooling system. I drain the radiator then flush the system till it runs
clear which takes a few minutes. I then start the engine while still
flushing and verify that the water is still clear.

Oppie


"Blah blah" > wrote in message
...
> In my experience those T's are nothing but a leak waiting to happen if
> they're not already leaking. If you have a conventional green cooling
> system you had better not go past 2 years between flushes. I dont drive
> anything with conventional green coolant cooling systems anymore but
> what I did was open the radiator drain every year and let what ever
> drains out drain out then refill it. No "flushing", just drain and fill
> "YEARLY". That put enough new corrosion inhibitors in the system to last
> a year till the next drain and fill. You also dont end up with so much
> waste to haul off that way.
>
>

In article m>,
says...
> Yes, it is one more potential source for a leak but with firm
> tightening, it has never been a problem. On the minivan, it was also good to
> help purge air from the heater circuit (higher than the engine) by loosening
> the cap on the tee after a refill.
>

I'm talking about the entire Tee fitting. The things get hairline
cracks and spray coolant all to often. Part of servicing the coolant
system is to turn the heat up high in the car to get air flow across the
heater core while purging the air out of the system. (that hasnt been
mentioned so far) Usually the auto makers give you purge valves at the
highest point(s) of the cooling system if the radiator cap is lower than
everything else. If they dont the fix for that is to park it on a hill
or on ramps then let it cool down overnight.

> It was always amazing how much schmutz came out when flushing out the
> cooling system. I drain the radiator then flush the system till it runs
> clear which takes a few minutes. I then start the engine while still
> flushing and verify that the water is still clear.

A lot of that schmutz is ginger root if its a Saturn system or scaling
from the green coolant. If you ever take the intake off or waterneck off
a green coolant cooling system it often looks really bad.

I remove that small hose that connects to the plastic surge tank and
insert a tapered nozzle attached to a garden hose. Then press the
handle on/off 5 or so times, followed by several long continuous bursts.
Don't let the hose go full force, low to moderate pressure only.

This sends the water stream in the opposite direction to normal coolant
flow, and works quite well. Do this until the water draining out of the
block & radiatior runs clean. No flush tee needed.


=================================

" ..... I ain't no bandleader!!"

In my extended family there are 6 Saturns - 4 SL series, 2 IONs.

I've had occasion to change coolant on each of the SLs.

Simply drain the radiator, drain the block. The coolant comes out looking
like VERY TASTY orange kool-aid. No crud or gunk whatsoever.

It really doesn't look as if a flush is needed. Simply drain and refill.

That's my 2¢ worth.

"Jerry" > wrote in message
om...
> What is group's opinion about a kit to back-flush a cooling system
> (cut a hose to the heater and install the adapter).
> Any answers are much appreciated. Thank you.

Thanks for the 2¢ Kirk.
I think that everybody has been talking about the green coolant so far.
Evidently the Orange Dex-cool stuff is a totally different animal. I've got
45K on my '01 LW300 and the dex-coolant is as clean looking as new.
Unfortunately there is no cap on the radiator to view the condition of the
core but all seems well otherwise.

Oppie


"Kirk Kohnen" > wrote in message
...
> In my extended family there are 6 Saturns - 4 SL series, 2 IONs.
>
> I've had occasion to change coolant on each of the SLs.
>
> Simply drain the radiator, drain the block. The coolant comes out looking
> like VERY TASTY orange kool-aid. No crud or gunk whatsoever.
>
> It really doesn't look as if a flush is needed. Simply drain and refill.
>
> That's my 2¢ worth.
>
> "Jerry" > wrote in message
> om...
> > What is group's opinion about a kit to back-flush a cooling system
> > (cut a hose to the heater and install the adapter).
> > Any answers are much appreciated. Thank you.
>
>

>I've got
>45K on my '01 LW300 and the dex-coolant is as clean looking as new.

The "looks" of coolant can be very deceiving. You can not see the acidity level
in coolant until it is too late.

I change my coolant out every 2 years regardless if it is orange or green.

I help maintain a fleet of vehicles for my company. We have found it better to
drain and flush the dexcool and replace with the green.

Since we switched to the green seveal years ago, we are replacing less intake
manifold gaskets and see less water pump failures. Who knows.

James