HELP! - Cars runs shortly then dies

Hi ALl,

This one has me stumped; I can start the car, and it runs for about 3
minutes then dies. It will start again for only a second, then die
again. The longer I wait before starting it, the longer it will run
before conking out.
It slightly missfires as it runs. I thought fuel was not getting to
the carb ( 34pict3), but, the gas filter has gas in it, and the carb
bowl is full after engine dies. ( Right after engine died, I removed
the fuel hose so it could not slowly fill the bowl, & I removed the
carb and checked the bowl)
I replaced the carb with a clean xtra one and the engine is doing the
same thing.
I greatly loosened the gas cap to make sure I was not getting a
vacuum lock - still did not help.
Even though the carb is full, could it still be the fuel pump? I'm
considering changing it out.

Thanks so much

Matt S

Matt S

Matt S wrote:

> Hi ALl,
>
> This one has me stumped; I can start the car, and it runs for about 3
> minutes then dies. It will start again for only a second, then die
> again. The longer I wait before starting it, the longer it will run
> before conking out.
> It slightly missfires as it runs. I thought fuel was not getting to
> the carb ( 34pict3), but, the gas filter has gas in it, and the carb
> bowl is full after engine dies. ( Right after engine died, I removed
> the fuel hose so it could not slowly fill the bowl, & I removed the
> carb and checked the bowl)
> I replaced the carb with a clean xtra one and the engine is doing the
> same thing.
> I greatly loosened the gas cap to make sure I was not getting a
> vacuum lock - still did not help.
> Even though the carb is full, could it still be the fuel pump? I'm
> considering changing it out.
>
> Thanks so much
>
> Matt S
>
> Matt S
>

Don't change the pump!
If the carb bowl is full when it dies, then it is not a starvation problem.

Is it dying out on the hiway? Will it run if you keep the throttle
wide open?

If it won't keep running even at full throttle, I'd rule out carb
and vacuum leaks, etc.

That leaves spark.
Check for spark as soon as it dies. You'll have to be quick.

Coils can be intermittent as they heat up.
A loose terminal also possible.
Points/condensor...less likely.

Ignition switch should not be overlooked. Put a 12V bulb on the
Coil + terminal to ground. See if the bulb goes out when the
engine dies.

Speedy Jim
http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/

"Speedy Jim" > wrote in message
...

A blocked fuel tank vent would leave fuel in the filter and lines.

I will assume a Beetle or Super or KG (1971-1974)
Does fuel come out of the accelerate jet nozzle when you open the throttle?
If so you are getting gas. ;-)
I will assume you can't keep it running at all.
Maybe it is flooding out?

It might be an ignition problem! How is the spark?
Points can cause problems like what you are experiencing.

BTW I have seen people fill up their fuel tanks with diesel fuel! 8^o


later,
dave
(One out of many Daves)

Check the electrical connection to the choke. It might be stuck on.

Okay, I'll shut up now.

Matt S wrote:
> Hi ALl,
>
> This one has me stumped; I can start the car, and it runs for about 3
> minutes then dies. It will start again for only a second, then die
> again. The longer I wait before starting it, the longer it will run
> before conking out.
> It slightly missfires as it runs. I thought fuel was not getting to
> the carb ( 34pict3), but, the gas filter has gas in it, and the carb
> bowl is full after engine dies. ( Right after engine died, I removed
> the fuel hose so it could not slowly fill the bowl, & I removed the
> carb and checked the bowl)
> I replaced the carb with a clean xtra one and the engine is doing the
> same thing.
> I greatly loosened the gas cap to make sure I was not getting a
> vacuum lock - still did not help.
> Even though the carb is full, could it still be the fuel pump? I'm
> considering changing it out.
>
> Thanks so much
>
> Matt S
>
> Matt S
>
Could it be the choke is not opening after the car warms up? If the
choke does not open after the car reaches operating temperature it will
be much too rich, sometimes so rich that it will die. I'd get a
Volt-Ohm Meter and check the resistive heater that heats the bi-metal
spring that opens the choke. It is not uncommon to see these burn open.
If the heater is o.k. then check and make sure it is getting 12 volts
(or 6 volts in an unconverted pre-67).

I saw this symtoms caused by a condenser in the ignition circuit.
bye....MIC

Thanks for your input...

I don't even think the car has a chance to warm up before it dies. I
should time it, it only runs for about 2 minutes from a cold start.

This is all in my driveway.

I've tried one other cleaned out carb and it did the same thing. I will
try another clean carb ( I have a totoal of 4). - and I have extra fuel
pumps and coils - helps with quick troubleshooting

One of the reasons why I thought it is a fuel pump is because when I
placed on my second clean carb ( float bowl empty) it took over 3x as
long for the car to catch to start - as if the fuel in the bowl was not
filling all that well. I will see if the same thing happens with my
3rd carb.

Again, once the car runs, and dies if I count to 5 sec, the car will
run for about 2 sec.s, If I count to 30 seconds the car will run about
20 seconds. If I wait a minute after it dies, it will run for maybe a
minute. Strange.

My points are 46 degrees dwell.

did not check the spark, again, when it runs, it runs pretty well.

I will try a few things, including checking voltages, spark, changing
out the condenser. again, I loosened my gas cap a great deal, and
still had the prob, so I n't think it is a venting issue.
Thanks - and any other thoughts may help!

In article >, "jjs" >
wrote:

>
> A blocked fuel tank vent would leave fuel in the filter and lines.

Yes, air is not getting back into the gas tank to replace the gas.
I had this happen and it was the carbon fuel tank vapour collector
"tank" that filters the air coming out of the vent.
I just disconnected this to see if that was the problem.
A good hint ; is to take the gas cap off after you have this problem and
listen for the air gushing in.
good luck,


>
<g.
you can't fool all of the people , all of the time.

UDPATE

OK spent the last 2 days working on the problem
When I could get the car running ( it was rough) I checked for vacuum
leaks via carb cleaner spray; as occasionally, the cars' rpm would
increase then greatly decrease which is indicative of a vacuum leak,
only sometimes when I would spray would there be a change in rpms, but
was never sure if it was due to my spray or by chance the engine
"straightening itself out" at that moment. An area that seem to respond
( right manifold arm going to head) did not respond on subsequent
sprays, even when I drowned it in the spray. - because of this I was
not confident it was a leak.
So I replaced...

the carb, in case if there was a partial orifice block(?) - as
adjustments to the carb would result in no change in rpms whereas the
day before it did. With my new clean carb, the car would not run -
again. - I put the old one on. I barely got it started; ran rough

I replaced the distributor - as I thought that iti is possible that the
vacuum advance mechanism was becoming defective - I had this happen
once to me; also it was suggested to me the condenser could be going.
SO with another distrib, I added new points and condensor, put it in
and started the car - ran a little rough. Points were slightly off,
adjusted them, car would then not start. adjusted them again, and
again, both times car would not start. Put the old distrib back in,
car would not start (!??!). Waited a while and the car started.

I replaced the coil ( it was suggested this could be going bad) -
though spark seemed to be a little weak in color, car would not start
again,, repalced with another - car would not start. Put back the
original, car would not start. Relieved gas line pressure ( which I
doubted existed but anyway) by removing a line from the carb &
reattached, car would not start. Checked for shorted wires especially
to the distrib and other wires running behind the coil. Did not see
anything. Car started but ran rough.

As I feel it is a fuel problem, I replaced the fuel pump ( I once had
a pump go bad on me though it still could pump a bit of fuel). I
hooked the new pump up backwards with respect to the hoses (after car
ran then conked out ) - this pump was set to feed to the carb from the
lower pipe - opposite from what I ever had before. switched hoses
around. Car would not start. waited 5 minutes, car started, still ran
rough - but I noticed something.

WIththe new pump the clear gas filter was 3/4 filled with gas ( usually
just a little was filling the filter). but with all that gas, I
noticed it looked cloudy. I thought then maybe I have a lot of water
in my gas tank. I went to the auto store & bought dry-gas. Poured it
in , waited 20 minutes for it to disperse in my tank and barely got the
car started. I ran it around for about 15 minutes to get it hot, and
now it is idle-ing in my driveway for the past 2 1/2 hours without
conking out !!!- still runing a little rough, rpms consisatncy seems to
be pretty good. I jsut want to try to get a lot of that gas out. I'm
tired of working on it and it's dark. Tomorrow if it starts, I'll test
again for vacuum leaks.

But I wonder if water in the gas can besides get a car to run rough,
but cause idle problems and VARY RPM(?). I may have been looking for a
mechanical problem when there was none to be found. Once I confirm no
leaks tomorrow I'll feel better. Just have to get new gas in the
tank.

Thanks so much for everyone's help!! Really do appreciate it - and it
still may be needed!

Matt S