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#11
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"Doc" > wrote in message om... > I just discovered Harbor Freight stores recently and noticed they had > a tire mounting tool as well as a tire balancing tool. > > If they work, it would sure represent quite a savings over time if I > mounted my own tires. Anyone ever used one of these and have a feel > for how well they work? I have an '89 Toyota Cressida with what appear > to be aluminum wheels. Should this tire mounting tool work with these > kind of rims? |
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#12
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"Doc" > wrote in message
om... > I just discovered Harbor Freight stores recently and noticed they had > a tire mounting tool as well as a tire balancing tool. > > If they work, it would sure represent quite a savings over time if I > mounted my own tires. Anyone ever used one of these and have a feel > for how well they work? I have an '89 Toyota Cressida with what appear > to be aluminum wheels. Should this tire mounting tool work with these > kind of rims? Hell, around here in south Georgia, any local redneck can mount a tire using nothing but his bare feet, a big screwdriver and some tobacco juice spit;-) Dan'l. |
#14
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wrote: > On 21-May-2004, (Doc) wrote: > > >>I just discovered Harbor Freight stores recently and noticed they had >>a tire mounting tool as well as a tire balancing tool. >> >>If they work, it would sure represent quite a savings over time if I >>mounted my own tires. Anyone ever used one of these and have a feel >>for how well they work? I have an '89 Toyota Cressida with what appear >>to be aluminum wheels. Should this tire mounting tool work with these >>kind of rims? > I bought the Harbor freight unit. Tried to use it a few times with varied success. The biggest problem is leverage. The two little iron crossbars at the base need to be bolted down to something so you can get leverage on the tire and removal spoon. Without bolting it down, its hard to get the leverage to do it. Bob -----= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =----- http://www.newsfeeds.com - The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! -----== Over 100,000 Newsgroups - 19 Different Servers! =----- |
#15
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> wrote in message >...
> > For those of us who grew up in rural areas, mounting and dismounting tires > is not exactly rocket science. You can break the bead with the car's own > jack, dismount and mount the tire with simple tire irons, seat the bead with > air pressure, and balance it with a bubble balancer. No big deal, really. Can you outline how you break the bead with the jack? |
#16
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In article >,
(Doc) wrote: > > wrote in message >... > > > > > For those of us who grew up in rural areas, mounting and dismounting tires > > is not exactly rocket science. You can break the bead with the car's own > > jack, dismount and mount the tire with simple tire irons, seat the bead with > > air pressure, and balance it with a bubble balancer. No big deal, really. > > Can you outline how you break the bead with the jack? Pull the valve core out, and set the tire/wheel assembly on a hard surface under the car or other *VERY* heavy item. Car is usually handiest and heaviest. Set the jack base on tire (not on wheel!) near bead, under something solid on car. Operate jack until bead breaks. If needed, rotate tire/wheel, reposition jack, and repeat until bead is broken around entire rim. Even a "tough" tire usually only takes 2-3 times of pumping up the jack to get one side ccompletely broken loose. Often, once gets things started well enough to easily finish by hand or with a tire iron or large screwdriver. Variation (but only if you've got good solid steel frame doors that can take this sort of thing): Tire against one side of building doorway, jack placed horizontally (don't try this with a hydraulic jack that isn't designed for horizontal use) against tire and other side of doorway. Proceed as above. Basically, you've just turned your car/jack or doorway/jack into a crude press, rated at about the lower of either the jack's rated capacity (if you use the doorframe method, the frame's "crushability" will come into play, too, but...) or half the weight of your car or whatever object you used to pin the jack down. Didn't realize you bought a shop tool at the same time you bought the car, didja? -- Don Bruder - - New Email policy in effect as of Feb. 21, 2004. I respond to Email as quick as humanly possible. If you Email me and get no response, see <http://www.sonic.net/~dakidd/main/contact.html> Short form: I'm trashing EVERYTHING that doesn't contain a password in the subject. |
#17
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If I remember right, put the jack base on the bead and jack up the
car/truck. The weight breaks the bead. At least that's the Arkansas way...... "Doc" > wrote in message om... > > wrote in message >... > > > > > For those of us who grew up in rural areas, mounting and dismounting tires > > is not exactly rocket science. You can break the bead with the car's own > > jack, dismount and mount the tire with simple tire irons, seat the bead with > > air pressure, and balance it with a bubble balancer. No big deal, really. > > Can you outline how you break the bead with the jack? |
#18
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"Don Bruder" > wrote in message ... > In article >, > (Doc) wrote: > > > > wrote in message >... > > > > > > > > For those of us who grew up in rural areas, mounting and dismounting tires > > > is not exactly rocket science. You can break the bead with the car's own > > > jack, dismount and mount the tire with simple tire irons, seat the bead with > > > air pressure, and balance it with a bubble balancer. No big deal, really. > > > > Can you outline how you break the bead with the jack? > > Pull the valve core out, and set the tire/wheel assembly on a hard > surface under the car or other *VERY* heavy item. Car is usually > handiest and heaviest. Set the jack base on tire (not on wheel!) near > bead, under something solid on car. Operate jack until bead breaks. If > needed, rotate tire/wheel, reposition jack, and repeat until bead is > broken around entire rim. Even a "tough" tire usually only takes 2-3 > times of pumping up the jack to get one side ccompletely broken loose. > Often, once gets things started well enough to easily finish by hand or > with a tire iron or large screwdriver. What he said, except nix the big screwdriver. The sharp corners of the screwdriver can cause leaks later on due to scratches on the rim or tears in the tire rubber. Real tire irons are a must have and not that expensive. They are just about extinct at normal auto parts stores, but are easily found at farm and motorcycle parts outlets. The longer the better. When using the tire iron, make sure that the opposite side of the bead is pushed into the valley of the rim and that the bead is well lubricated. You shouldn't have to use excessive force at any time. George |
#19
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<<<snip>>>
> > I was impressed. It takes the guys at the tire shop (complete with four > flavors of tire machine to choose from) longer to get a tire off of or > onto one of my 13 inch "normal car" wheels than it took this guy to > remove AND replace that big ol' 30-ish inch truck tire that probably > weighed as much as he did! > > Never underestimate the speed/power/capability of non-machine methods of > doing things... > LOL, good story. Sounds like me in the 70's. I worked in a garage and changed more tires than I could ever remember with a 'machine' that looked almost exactly like the HF things do - and I might have weighed all of 130 pounds. They aren't really that hard to use once you get the hang of it. Of course, I had a pro teach me how to use it on day-one. I've seen others ruin brand new tires and/or rims by trying to force it because they were strong and just 'wanted to get it done' without proper training or were in a bigass hurry. Like any skill, practice makes perfect and patience is a virtue. Tire beads aren't very tough compared to a steel rim spoon and a grease monkey in a hurry. Here's my advice: Buy the HF tire changer, bolt it securely to your garage floor with concrete anchors and practice taking off AND re-installing your OLD tires about 5 or 6 times before you tear up the bead on brand new tires. Take your time, be patient and don't get ****ed off when it doesn't work right and force things - you'll be glad you did. Be especially careful with aluminum rims, they don't take much to score the metal with a steel rim spoon and there's almost no fixing them once they're scored - they might always leak no matter how much snot you pour into the tire. Use a LOT of very soapy water to lube the bead going on AND off the rim. Clean the rim to look like new once the tires are de-mounted. Be especially picky about this! Nothing is more annoying than a leaker caused by a poorly cleaned rim. Good luck, - Jeff G |
#20
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