EGR Again? Died at stop light 98 SL Manual 113K

Here's what I've found out.

After installing the new EGR valve and having the same problem. I had the
car towed to Precision Tune. They say it is the Crankshaft Position Sensor.

So far:
$79 Towing (ins will reimburse)
94.95 diagnostics
42.99 part sensor
86.39 labor to replace (must be the minimum)
24.25 shop charges
8.54 sales tax

AutoZone has the part for 12.99. I told the guy I want to talk to the
manager before they put that part in. I told him if it comes down to it,
I'll bring him the part, rather than pay an extra $30 for it. I have to wait
for the manager to come back in tomorrow and call me. But if they won't let
me do that, I guess I'll just have to bend over and take it.

"Richard" > wrote in message
...
> Would EGR cause car to die at stop light?
>
> I posted a few weeks ago about getting the SES and an EGR code. A couple
of
> kind people advised about cleaning the valve myself. I haven't done it yet
> because it has been a couple of weeks and the SES has not come on again.
> I have been noticing the occasional rough idle at stop lights. Usually
just
> one time it will shake and the RPMs drop from the normal 8 to about 5. (I
> also think my miles per gallon may be dropping.)
> Tonight on the way home there was the rough idle and it died. It started
> right up, I drove a few more blocks, and it died at the next light. It
> wouldn't start again.
> I left if for an hour, it started, I drove it home. Still no SES, though.
>
> QUESTION:
> Could this relate to the original EGR error code, in which case I will
clean
> it and hope for the best? Or could it be a new problem that I should bring
> it in for?
>
> Another Question:
> I cannot find anything under the hood resembling the many pictures of the
> EGR in my Chilton's. I believe the one in the picture is a Vacuum EGR, and
> mine might be the Linear/Electric (?). The one in the book looks round,
> grey, and is raised in the center. The only thing I can find is black,
> round, and has some hardware on top. Is this the linear valve? If it is,
is
> it just as easy to remove and clean as the vacuum one?
>
> Thanks a lot for all the help!!!
>
>

This problem does NOT sound like a Crank Position Sensor to me. Does
Precision Tune get that specific fault code, or are the only guessing?

Since their diagnosis does not appear to be right, especially since
they did not tell you the specific fault code, I SUGGEST you let them
put their part on. That way, IF the vehicle is NOT fixed, it will be
out of their pocket, not yours. Continue to be watchful on this
alleged "cure".

Paul
####

"Richard" > wrote in message >...
> Here's what I've found out.
>
> After installing the new EGR valve and having the same problem. I had the
> car towed to Precision Tune. They say it is the Crankshaft Position Sensor.
>
> So far:
> $79 Towing (ins will reimburse)
> 94.95 diagnostics
> 42.99 part sensor
> 86.39 labor to replace (must be the minimum)
> 24.25 shop charges
> 8.54 sales tax
>
> AutoZone has the part for 12.99. I told the guy I want to talk to the
> manager before they put that part in. I told him if it comes down to it,
> I'll bring him the part, rather than pay an extra $30 for it. I have to wait
> for the manager to come back in tomorrow and call me. But if they won't let
> me do that, I guess I'll just have to bend over and take it.
>
> "Richard" > wrote in message
> ...
> > Would EGR cause car to die at stop light?
> >
> > I posted a few weeks ago about getting the SES and an EGR code. A couple
> of
> > kind people advised about cleaning the valve myself. I haven't done it yet
> > because it has been a couple of weeks and the SES has not come on again.
> > I have been noticing the occasional rough idle at stop lights. Usually
> just
> > one time it will shake and the RPMs drop from the normal 8 to about 5. (I
> > also think my miles per gallon may be dropping.)
> > Tonight on the way home there was the rough idle and it died. It started
> > right up, I drove a few more blocks, and it died at the next light. It
> > wouldn't start again.
> > I left if for an hour, it started, I drove it home. Still no SES, though.
> >
> > QUESTION:
> > Could this relate to the original EGR error code, in which case I will
> clean
> > it and hope for the best? Or could it be a new problem that I should bring
> > it in for?
> >
> > Another Question:
> > I cannot find anything under the hood resembling the many pictures of the
> > EGR in my Chilton's. I believe the one in the picture is a Vacuum EGR, and
> > mine might be the Linear/Electric (?). The one in the book looks round,
> > grey, and is raised in the center. The only thing I can find is black,
> > round, and has some hardware on top. Is this the linear valve? If it is,
> is
> > it just as easy to remove and clean as the vacuum one?
> >
> > Thanks a lot for all the help!!!
> >
> >

They replaced the sensor. I picked it up tonight at about 5:30, drove it
about 8 miles out and back again on the freeway.
It seems to be good so far ...<knock on wood>

"paul" > wrote in message
om...
> This problem does NOT sound like a Crank Position Sensor to me. Does
> Precision Tune get that specific fault code, or are the only guessing?
>
> Since their diagnosis does not appear to be right, especially since
> they did not tell you the specific fault code, I SUGGEST you let them
> put their part on. That way, IF the vehicle is NOT fixed, it will be
> out of their pocket, not yours. Continue to be watchful on this
> alleged "cure".
>
> Paul
> ####
>
> "Richard" > wrote in message
>...
> > Here's what I've found out.
> >
> > After installing the new EGR valve and having the same problem. I had
the
> > car towed to Precision Tune. They say it is the Crankshaft Position
Sensor.
> >
> > So far:
> > $79 Towing (ins will reimburse)
> > 94.95 diagnostics
> > 42.99 part sensor
> > 86.39 labor to replace (must be the minimum)
> > 24.25 shop charges
> > 8.54 sales tax
> >
> > AutoZone has the part for 12.99. I told the guy I want to talk to the
> > manager before they put that part in. I told him if it comes down to it,
> > I'll bring him the part, rather than pay an extra $30 for it. I have to
wait
> > for the manager to come back in tomorrow and call me. But if they won't
let
> > me do that, I guess I'll just have to bend over and take it.
> >
> > "Richard" > wrote in message
> > ...
> > > Would EGR cause car to die at stop light?
> > >
> > > I posted a few weeks ago about getting the SES and an EGR code. A
couple
> > of
> > > kind people advised about cleaning the valve myself. I haven't done it
yet
> > > because it has been a couple of weeks and the SES has not come on
again.
> > > I have been noticing the occasional rough idle at stop lights. Usually
> > just
> > > one time it will shake and the RPMs drop from the normal 8 to about 5.
(I
> > > also think my miles per gallon may be dropping.)
> > > Tonight on the way home there was the rough idle and it died. It
started
> > > right up, I drove a few more blocks, and it died at the next light. It
> > > wouldn't start again.
> > > I left if for an hour, it started, I drove it home. Still no SES,
though.
> > >
> > > QUESTION:
> > > Could this relate to the original EGR error code, in which case I will
> > clean
> > > it and hope for the best? Or could it be a new problem that I should
bring
> > > it in for?
> > >
> > > Another Question:
> > > I cannot find anything under the hood resembling the many pictures of
the
> > > EGR in my Chilton's. I believe the one in the picture is a Vacuum EGR,
and
> > > mine might be the Linear/Electric (?). The one in the book looks
round,
> > > grey, and is raised in the center. The only thing I can find is black,
> > > round, and has some hardware on top. Is this the linear valve? If it
is,
> > is
> > > it just as easy to remove and clean as the vacuum one?
> > >
> > > Thanks a lot for all the help!!!
> > >
> > >

I know on BMW that the Hall sensor can be affected by heat. Symptoms sound
similar: gets hot and quits. Once cool, it starts again. I also was told
not to let it warm up since no airflow will cause the thing to fail
prematurely. Sounds like it is a borderline-engineered device with regards
to heat damage.

You got off cheap compared to the BMW.

B~