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#1
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Changing spark plugs
How much do dealers charge to change a set of spark plugs these days?
I took a look at the layout of my '99 Mountaineer (V-8 5.0L) and there's no way you could get to some of those plugs unless you were a miniature trained monkey, or pulled the whole engine out. |
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#2
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Changing spark plugs
Take off the front wheels and splash skirts then you can get to the plugs. That's how I reached them on my Explorer V8 On Sat, 1 Jul 2006 14:16:14 -0400, "J. Doh" > wrote: >How much do dealers charge to change a set of spark plugs these days? > >I took a look at the layout of my '99 Mountaineer (V-8 5.0L) and there's >no way you could get to some of those plugs unless you were a miniature >trained monkey, or pulled the whole engine out. > > |
#3
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Changing spark plugs
Unless the '99 is somehow different from my '98, there is absolutely no need
to take off wheels. Once you pull the few clips (spend the $5 on the right tool, instead of struggling with a screwdriver) and put the splash shield aside, the spark plugs are all in front of you, with lots of room to maneuver. This vehicle is the easiest to change plugs that I ever owned. "Fred 2" > wrote in message ... > > Take off the front wheels and splash skirts then you can get to the > plugs. That's how I reached them on my Explorer V8 |
#4
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Changing spark plugs
Even without the splash guards, there is a huge obstruction directly
in front of the two rear-most passenger-side spark plugs (I think it's the A/C condensor). So I think it would be necessary to get to these two plugs from underneath, in addition to removing the splash guard. I've read where removing the air filter box and the intake pipe helps with access to the spark plugs on the passenger side, but with my particular layout, this only helps (marginally) access to the two front plugs, the two rear plugs are still virtually inaccessible. Years ago I would have tried anyway, but in light of my back problems, I'll let someone else with a younger and more flexible body tackle this particular job. ;-) |
#5
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Changing spark plugs
Change all plugs from the wheel openings (underneath) it's a lot easier than from the top, when I did mine I didn't even try attempt to get to them from above. That box on the passenger side is the A/C evaporator, the condenser is in front of the radiator. On Mon, 3 Jul 2006 09:24:18 -0400, "J. Doh" > wrote: >Even without the splash guards, there is a huge obstruction directly >in front of the two rear-most passenger-side spark plugs (I think it's >the A/C condensor). So I think it would be necessary to get to these >two plugs from underneath, in addition to removing the splash guard. > >I've read where removing the air filter box and the intake pipe helps >with access to the spark plugs on the passenger side, but with my >particular layout, this only helps (marginally) access to the two front >plugs, the two rear plugs are still virtually inaccessible. > >Years ago I would have tried anyway, but in light of my back problems, >I'll let someone else with a younger and more flexible body tackle this >particular job. ;-) > |
#6
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Changing spark plugs
I started looking at changing them myself on the SOHC but it was a big PITA.
I checked with the dealer and they had a tuneup package that included new plugs that was priced pretty good so I went with them. -- Allan Williams "J. Doh" > wrote in message ... > How much do dealers charge to change a set of spark plugs these days? > > I took a look at the layout of my '99 Mountaineer (V-8 5.0L) and there's > no way you could get to some of those plugs unless you were a miniature > trained monkey, or pulled the whole engine out. > > > |
#7
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Changing spark plugs
Fred, Happy,
Thanks for your advice. I took off the driver's side splash panel to have a look, and I think that without the tire in the way it should be easy enough. So, I'm going to give it a try tomorrow. I picked up some double platinum plugs, some dielectric grease, and some spark plug boot pliers. And some WD-40 just in case these 7-year-old, 97K mile plugs need a little 'persuasion' to get them loose. Just one last request, any advice about getting the boots off of the plugs that have the metal heat protection shrouds on them? Just reach around them and tug with the pliers, or is there a secret trick to these boots? |
#8
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Changing spark plugs
J. Doh wrote:
> And some WD-40 just in case these 7-year-old, 97K mile plugs need a > little 'persuasion' to get them loose. And you may be real sorry if you're not wearing gloves when something suddenly lets go. My Explorer spark plug experience was a bloody one. |
#9
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Changing spark plugs
I second that, wear gloves (preferably heavy ones) when yanking on the spark
plug wires. Also, spray those plugs with the wd-40 (when the engine is cool) awhile before you attempt removal. It will make things easier. PB Blaster is my favorite penetrating oil as I feel it works much better than wd-40. Also pickup some anti-seize compound to put on your new spark plugs threads to make the eventual future removal a little easier. "Lassie" > wrote in message . net... > J. Doh wrote: > > >> And some WD-40 just in case these 7-year-old, 97K mile plugs need a >> little 'persuasion' to get them loose. > > > And you may be real sorry if you're not wearing gloves when something > suddenly lets go. My Explorer spark plug experience was a bloody one. |
#10
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Changing spark plugs
Follow-up report!
I'm happy to report that I replaced all 8 of 'em today, without a hitch. I half-expected them to be rusted in after 97K miles (and 7 years) but they all backed out easily, and it turned out I didn't even need to remove the left side tire and splash panel. I did need to remove the right-side tire and splash panel, but once that was done all 4 plugs were right there and easily accessible. All the original plugs were worn to about .065 - .069, and a bit cruddy. 3 of the plugs on the right side had wet, oily coating up around the threads. I've been burning about a quart of oil every 3000 miles lately, I guess that's where it's going. |
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