"new" engine doesn't start right?

> You are full of **** sir!
>
> You posted here 16 minutes ago from this post's time tag and also 40
> minutes ago still guessing about what is wrong and 'suddenly' you have
> taken it in???
>
> You also started the blown engine thread 4 freakin' days ago, not 2
> weeks.
>
> You 'sure' come across as a Troll with BS threads for some strange
> reason...
>

Nope, not a troll. The original engine on my car died in late January (or
should I say it was MURDERED by a 2-year-old belt that slipped), but the car
was in the shop for a while before I first posted here about it. I've also
had intermittent problems with my news servers, which is what I get for
using the free ones, I guess. If this post ever shows up in the ng, I'm
happy to report that my car seems to be totally FIXED, finally. I know I
probably spent a lot more on it that most would advise me to. But then
again, I'm the only person in the world who knows my car as well as I do.
Most 10 year old cars wouldn't be worth ****. I happen to believe (still
do) that my Galant still has a lot of life left in it. For most of it's
life, it wasn't a commuter (just a weekend runabout, as I was always driving
company vehicles during the week). As I'm typing this, my car still looks
and runs LIKE NEW, although with a slightly newer used engine it it now.
The interior is spotless, other than the front floormats, which are showing
obvious signs of wear. The exterior is still nice and shiny, no scratches
and not even a hint of rust. The suspension and brakes are in perfect
condition, and all four tires are a brand new matched set. I'm probably
going to need a new muffler soon, but that's very MINOR, obviously. With
the original engine, I always got more than 30MPG. That's not bad for a
5-seater with plenty of GO power. Haven't had the replacement engine long
enough to check fuel economy yet, but it certainly feels as peppy as the
original engine. (still a bit tight, but I'm betting it will loosen up over
time)

I'm optimistic at this point, thinking I probably made the right decision.
The car feels different because the clutch is new and the engine is still a
bit "tight". But it feels good . . . darned good . . . and not just because
I've got my wheels back. The car itself seems to be running better than
ever, which is more than I could have hoped for. I would have been happy
just to have it back the way it WAS.

>
> I have NO idea if a Mitsu is like this, but on a Chevy I would suspect
> that the starter needs to be adjusted to mesh properly with the
> flywheel. If there were shims in there and one got lost in the engine
> swap, that could cause the starter pinion to mesh too far into the
> teeth on the flywheel...
>
> nate
>

Yup, good guess. As I posted earlier, the shop installed a different sized
shim, and now it is starting normally.

Eric B. wrote:
>>The flywheel forms part of the clutch "system" and an analogy would be to
>>think of it as the brake rotor and the clutch disc to be like the brake
>>pads. You replaced the brake pads, and machining the flywheel gives a
>>proper (clean and machined) surface to work with instead of a glazed
>>uneven surface.
>>
>>
>>Ray
>
>
> Well, they certainly seem to have gotten that right. The tranny is awesome.
> Never had any problems with it before, but it really feels much better now.
> Still learning how to drive it again, as the clutch pedal action is
> radically different, in a good way.
>
>

Two reasons -> it's not an OEM clutch. It's an aftermarket one - could
be better, could be worse, probably just as good, but different
materials so it grips a bit different. And, it's like old tires vs new
tires - you get used to the old tires being a bit "greasy" and then you
put new tires on and it's like magic, but in reality you're just back to
where you were when the old tires were new.

Still feels good tho.

Ray