Follow-up on attaching trailer hitch

Attaching the trailer hitch to my Toyota Solara went smoothly.

I think they would sell a lot more hitches if they imparted the
message of how easy it is. Until I read t he instructions online,
I thought all the holes would have to be positioned and drilled** by
me That would be a lot of effort, and maybe beyond the skill of a lot
of people who otoh could easily attach a hitch the way it is actually
attached.

The only problem was removing the rear bolt that held on the heat
shield above the muffler. No room for a socket, and my combination
wrench wasn't long enough for much leverage. I used my propane torch
but ran out of gas before it got very hot. The next day I finally
opened my new MAPP gas torch with the trigger sparker. Boy is that
nice. 3 minutes or so on and around the bolt head and when I applied
the wrench it took only one hand and barely any effort at all.

So my question is, Is the old bolt ruined by being heated like that?
It wasn't glowing red. What if it were glowing red?


At any rate, I replaced it with one of the included bolts, so all the
hitch bolts are new and have the same size head.

As to using a tap or thread chaser to clean out the threads of the 4
weld-nuts, it wasn't necessary after all. (Perhaps partly because they
are set back, welded, 1/8 or 1/4 inch from the lower face of the
frame^^) Using the included bolt, it was rather hard in all four
cases to find without looking the right angle to start the bolt.
However, once started, the two nuts on the right near the muffler
needed a wrench but showed no special resistance. The two on the
left did show resistance, but when the bolt was removed there was no
grit, just some black stuff in the threads. So I put the bolt in
again and used a wrench to get past the hard part. Strangely, backing
it out, it was hard to turn at the same spots (one per hole). I would
think bolts would get progressively easier to turn.

It was well worth the time to do all this, to clean out the threads,
before trying to mount the hitch.

^^I hear it's not really a frame, but I don't know what else to call
it.

The Curt kit came with toothed washers for all 5 bolts, plus one spare
of each, and all the other hardware needed. Other manufacturers do
the same.

It was also expected that the installer drill two holes in the frame
on the left, but positioning was pretty easy since the hitch was
already mounted and the two empty holes in the hitch approximately
marked the place where the holes should be drilled. Then a square
u-botlt (provided) was put in though one hole, nuts added, and
tightened. So t he hitch is attacked by 4 bolts on the left and 3 on
the right. I can't find either of my 1/2 to 3/8 adapters, but when
I do, I'll torque the bolts to 36 foot-pounds.


BTW, I tend to see the same cars every day, but I've been looking at
the cars I see, and in the 3 big junkyards I've been to, and I've seen
only one passenger car with a trailer hitch. (OTOH, most of the SUVs
have them. They are often thrown in by the dealer.)

This new hitch is strangely shaped. It is normal on the left, but the
bar on the right is replaced by a thick flat piece of steel that goes
under the muffler. The picture online for this Curt hitch showed
that. Maybe the picture for Hidden Hitch and the other popular brand
showed it too.


**For the Lebaron hitch, part of the bottom of the vinyl covering of
the bumper had to be cut away and the holes had to be positioned and
drilled***, although the Class I hitch could be already clamped to the
bumper struts at the time, so positioning was pretty much done, and
the metal bumper (under the plastic) was thinner than the Toyota
frame, I assume.

***I had figured a bigger hitch (class II instead of class I) would
present bigger problems for me. But it was easier.

The instructions said it would take 45 minutes for a pro and 90 for an
amateur. It probably took me about 105, 75 for normal stuff, and
another 15 for the time spent cleaning out the threads, and 15 for the
extra time heating and removing the heat shield bolt.


Prior to the LeBarons, my cars had real, chrome bumpers, and U-Haul
would attach a temporary hitch when I needed one. Although one time
they clamped it on so tight they flared my bumper out on one side. It
didn't look that bad, but still.

Although the reason I got a permanent hitch for the first LeBaron was
that it a smaller back seat than the Buick and it had leather seats,
and I didn't want to put my bicycle in the back seat. I had found a
bike rack that screwed on where the ball normally goes. Used the same
hitch in all 3 LeBarons.

On 11/05/2011 05:01 PM, micky wrote:
> Attaching the trailer hitch to my Toyota Solara went smoothly.
>
> I think they would sell a lot more hitches if they imparted the
> message of how easy it is. Until I read t he instructions online,
> I thought all the holes would have to be positioned and drilled** by
> me That would be a lot of effort, and maybe beyond the skill of a lot
> of people who otoh could easily attach a hitch the way it is actually
> attached.
>
> The only problem was removing the rear bolt that held on the heat
> shield above the muffler. No room for a socket, and my combination
> wrench wasn't long enough for much leverage. I used my propane torch
> but ran out of gas before it got very hot. The next day I finally
> opened my new MAPP gas torch with the trigger sparker. Boy is that
> nice. 3 minutes or so on and around the bolt head and when I applied
> the wrench it took only one hand and barely any effort at all.
>
> So my question is, Is the old bolt ruined by being heated like that?
> It wasn't glowing red. What if it were glowing red?
>
>
> At any rate, I replaced it with one of the included bolts, so all the
> hitch bolts are new and have the same size head.
>
> As to using a tap or thread chaser to clean out the threads of the 4
> weld-nuts, it wasn't necessary after all. (Perhaps partly because they
> are set back, welded, 1/8 or 1/4 inch from the lower face of the
> frame^^) Using the included bolt, it was rather hard in all four
> cases to find without looking the right angle to start the bolt.
> However, once started, the two nuts on the right near the muffler
> needed a wrench but showed no special resistance. The two on the
> left did show resistance, but when the bolt was removed there was no
> grit, just some black stuff in the threads. So I put the bolt in
> again and used a wrench to get past the hard part. Strangely, backing
> it out, it was hard to turn at the same spots (one per hole). I would
> think bolts would get progressively easier to turn.
>
> It was well worth the time to do all this, to clean out the threads,
> before trying to mount the hitch.
>
> ^^I hear it's not really a frame, but I don't know what else to call
> it.
>
> The Curt kit came with toothed washers for all 5 bolts, plus one spare
> of each, and all the other hardware needed. Other manufacturers do
> the same.
>
> It was also expected that the installer drill two holes in the frame
> on the left, but positioning was pretty easy since the hitch was
> already mounted and the two empty holes in the hitch approximately
> marked the place where the holes should be drilled. Then a square
> u-botlt (provided) was put in though one hole, nuts added, and
> tightened. So t he hitch is attacked by 4 bolts on the left and 3 on
> the right. I can't find either of my 1/2 to 3/8 adapters, but when
> I do, I'll torque the bolts to 36 foot-pounds.
>
>
> BTW, I tend to see the same cars every day, but I've been looking at
> the cars I see, and in the 3 big junkyards I've been to, and I've seen
> only one passenger car with a trailer hitch. (OTOH, most of the SUVs
> have them. They are often thrown in by the dealer.)
>
> This new hitch is strangely shaped. It is normal on the left, but the
> bar on the right is replaced by a thick flat piece of steel that goes
> under the muffler. The picture online for this Curt hitch showed
> that. Maybe the picture for Hidden Hitch and the other popular brand
> showed it too.
>
>
> **For the Lebaron hitch, part of the bottom of the vinyl covering of
> the bumper had to be cut away and the holes had to be positioned and
> drilled***, although the Class I hitch could be already clamped to the
> bumper struts at the time, so positioning was pretty much done, and
> the metal bumper (under the plastic) was thinner than the Toyota
> frame, I assume.
>
> ***I had figured a bigger hitch (class II instead of class I) would
> present bigger problems for me. But it was easier.
>
> The instructions said it would take 45 minutes for a pro and 90 for an
> amateur. It probably took me about 105, 75 for normal stuff, and
> another 15 for the time spent cleaning out the threads, and 15 for the
> extra time heating and removing the heat shield bolt.
>
>
> Prior to the LeBarons, my cars had real, chrome bumpers, and U-Haul
> would attach a temporary hitch when I needed one. Although one time
> they clamped it on so tight they flared my bumper out on one side. It
> didn't look that bad, but still.
>
> Although the reason I got a permanent hitch for the first LeBaron was
> that it a smaller back seat than the Buick and it had leather seats,
> and I didn't want to put my bicycle in the back seat. I had found a
> bike rack that screwed on where the ball normally goes. Used the same
> hitch in all 3 LeBarons.

I'd replace that one bolt, and install the new one with anti-seize. If
nothing else the plating is probably destroyed, and also you likely
annealed it. Not a huge deal, but if you plan on removing it again
10-15 years from now you'll have to break out the torch again, and since
it's annealed, you run the risk of breaking it off and having to drill it.

nate


--
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On Sat, 05 Nov 2011 17:25:28 -0400, Nate Nagel >
wrote:

>On 11/05/2011 05:01 PM, micky wrote:
>> Attaching the trailer hitch to my Toyota Solara went smoothly.
>>
>> I think they would sell a lot more hitches if they imparted the
>> message of how easy it is. Until I read t he instructions online,
>> I thought all the holes would have to be positioned and drilled** by
>> me That would be a lot of effort, and maybe beyond the skill of a lot
>> of people who otoh could easily attach a hitch the way it is actually
>> attached.
>>
>> The only problem was removing the rear bolt that held on the heat
>> shield above the muffler. No room for a socket, and my combination
>> wrench wasn't long enough for much leverage. I used my propane torch
>> but ran out of gas before it got very hot. The next day I finally
>> opened my new MAPP gas torch with the trigger sparker. Boy is that
>> nice. 3 minutes or so on and around the bolt head and when I applied
>> the wrench it took only one hand and barely any effort at all.
>>
>> So my question is, Is the old bolt ruined by being heated like that?
>> It wasn't glowing red. What if it were glowing red?
>>
>
>I'd replace that one bolt, and install the new one with anti-seize. If

I did replace it, but didn't' think of anti-seize. Oh, well.

Thanks for the good advice, both parts.

>nothing else the plating is probably destroyed, and also you likely
>annealed it. Not a huge deal, but if you plan on removing it again
>10-15 years from now

Well, if I buy another Solara in 7 or 9 years, or earlier if this one
gets wrecked, and the same hitch will fit, I would want to take the
hitch with me. Like I did with the three LeBarons.

(I"ve never managed to keep a car for more than 9 years, five of them
only 7 years each..)

>you'll have to break out the torch again, and since
>it's annealed,

Used the new bolt. OTOH, with the hitch in place, it's even harder
to use a wrench.

>you run the risk of breaking it off and having to drill it.

Dilling wouldn't work. The muffler is right under the bolt!. I could
lower the muffler I guess.

Darn. Maybe I can get a muffler shop to cut the head off with gas.
Darn.

I guess the worst that can happen is I'll have to buy another for 150
dollars. But since it's a new bolt, the MAPP torch should work
again, right?

Another back-up plan is to buy a better wrench and put an extension
pipe on it . I know that's "bad", but it works. That was the plan if
the torch didnt' work this time.

(I really couldn't pull that hard beforer, because I thought the bolt
would spring loose and even being careful, I'd ram my hand or fingers
into some hard or shap piece of metal. With an extension, and my
hands out from under the car, I can gradually increase until I apply
just the right amount of force. )


>nate

On 11/05/2011 05:57 PM, micky wrote:
> On Sat, 05 Nov 2011 17:25:28 -0400, Nate >
> wrote:
>
>> On 11/05/2011 05:01 PM, micky wrote:
>>> Attaching the trailer hitch to my Toyota Solara went smoothly.
>>>
>>> I think they would sell a lot more hitches if they imparted the
>>> message of how easy it is. Until I read t he instructions online,
>>> I thought all the holes would have to be positioned and drilled** by
>>> me That would be a lot of effort, and maybe beyond the skill of a lot
>>> of people who otoh could easily attach a hitch the way it is actually
>>> attached.
>>>
>>> The only problem was removing the rear bolt that held on the heat
>>> shield above the muffler. No room for a socket, and my combination
>>> wrench wasn't long enough for much leverage. I used my propane torch
>>> but ran out of gas before it got very hot. The next day I finally
>>> opened my new MAPP gas torch with the trigger sparker. Boy is that
>>> nice. 3 minutes or so on and around the bolt head and when I applied
>>> the wrench it took only one hand and barely any effort at all.
>>>
>>> So my question is, Is the old bolt ruined by being heated like that?
>>> It wasn't glowing red. What if it were glowing red?
>>>
>>
>> I'd replace that one bolt, and install the new one with anti-seize. If
>
> I did replace it, but didn't' think of anti-seize. Oh, well.
>
> Thanks for the good advice, both parts.
>
>> nothing else the plating is probably destroyed, and also you likely
>> annealed it. Not a huge deal, but if you plan on removing it again
>> 10-15 years from now
>
> Well, if I buy another Solara in 7 or 9 years, or earlier if this one
> gets wrecked, and the same hitch will fit, I would want to take the
> hitch with me. Like I did with the three LeBarons.
>
> (I"ve never managed to keep a car for more than 9 years, five of them
> only 7 years each..)
>
>> you'll have to break out the torch again, and since
>> it's annealed,
>
> Used the new bolt. OTOH, with the hitch in place, it's even harder
> to use a wrench.
>
>> you run the risk of breaking it off and having to drill it.
>
> Dilling wouldn't work. The muffler is right under the bolt!. I could
> lower the muffler I guess.
>
> Darn. Maybe I can get a muffler shop to cut the head off with gas.
> Darn.
>

Oh, I didn't realize that you'd replaced the bolt. No worries then, you
should be good to go.

nate


--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

Nate Nagel > wrote in
:

> On 11/05/2011 05:01 PM, micky wrote:

>>
>> The only problem was removing the rear bolt that held on the heat
>> shield above the muffler. No room for a socket, and my combination
>> wrench wasn't long enough for much leverage. I used my propane torch
>> but ran out of gas before it got very hot. The next day I finally
>> opened my new MAPP gas torch with the trigger sparker. Boy is that
>> nice. 3 minutes or so on and around the bolt head and when I applied
>> the wrench it took only one hand and barely any effort at all.
>>
>> So my question is, Is the old bolt ruined by being heated like that?
>> It wasn't glowing red. What if it were glowing red?
>>

<snip>

>
>
> I'd replace that one bolt, and install the new one with anti-seize.
> If nothing else the plating is probably destroyed, and also you likely
> annealed it. Not a huge deal, but if you plan on removing it again
> 10-15 years from now you'll have to break out the torch again, and
> since it's annealed, you run the risk of breaking it off and having to
> drill it.


<snip>


Nate, it's a /heat-shield bolt/, about as unstressed a bolt as I can think
of, and one of the least likely to ever need future removal.

I'd say leave it alone and move on to more important things, like making
sure there's sufficient beer in the trailer for the next camping trip.

In any case, if micky finds the bolt difficult to remove at a later date,
he can just re-heat it again, just like he did this time.

I'm a bit surprised he didn't set his interior on fire. If he'd got the
bolt glowing red-hot, he probably /would/ have set his interior on fire!


--
Tegger

On Sat, 05 Nov 2011 17:58:43 -0400, Nate Nagel >
wrote:

>On 11/05/2011 05:57 PM, micky wrote:
>> On Sat, 05 Nov 2011 17:25:28 -0400, Nate >
>> wrote:
>>
>>> On 11/05/2011 05:01 PM, micky wrote:
>>>> Attaching the trailer hitch to my Toyota Solara went smoothly.
>>>>
>>>> I think they would sell a lot more hitches if they imparted the
>>>> message of how easy it is. Until I read t he instructions online,
>>>> I thought all the holes would have to be positioned and drilled** by
>>>> me That would be a lot of effort, and maybe beyond the skill of a lot
>>>> of people who otoh could easily attach a hitch the way it is actually
>>>> attached.
>>>>
>>>> The only problem was removing the rear bolt that held on the heat
>>>> shield above the muffler. No room for a socket, and my combination
>>>> wrench wasn't long enough for much leverage. I used my propane torch
>>>> but ran out of gas before it got very hot. The next day I finally
>>>> opened my new MAPP gas torch with the trigger sparker. Boy is that
>>>> nice. 3 minutes or so on and around the bolt head and when I applied
>>>> the wrench it took only one hand and barely any effort at all.
>>>>
>>>> So my question is, Is the old bolt ruined by being heated like that?
>>>> It wasn't glowing red. What if it were glowing red?
>>>>
>>>
>>> I'd replace that one bolt, and install the new one with anti-seize. If
>>
>> I did replace it, but didn't' think of anti-seize. Oh, well.
>>
>> Thanks for the good advice, both parts.
>>
>>> nothing else the plating is probably destroyed, and also you likely
>>> annealed it. Not a huge deal, but if you plan on removing it again
>>> 10-15 years from now
>>
>> Well, if I buy another Solara in 7 or 9 years, or earlier if this one
>> gets wrecked, and the same hitch will fit, I would want to take the
>> hitch with me. Like I did with the three LeBarons.
>>
>> (I"ve never managed to keep a car for more than 9 years, five of them
>> only 7 years each..)
>>
>>> you'll have to break out the torch again, and since
>>> it's annealed,
>>
>> Used the new bolt. OTOH, with the hitch in place, it's even harder
>> to use a wrench.
>>
>>> you run the risk of breaking it off and having to drill it.
>>
>> Dilling wouldn't work. The muffler is right under the bolt!. I could
>> lower the muffler I guess.
>>
>> Darn. Maybe I can get a muffler shop to cut the head off with gas.
>> Darn.
>>
>
>Oh, I didn't realize that you'd replaced the bolt. No worries then, you
>should be good to go.

Oh, good. I retract the darns.

I don't even know if they'll still be making covertiibles out of
Camrys then, or if the frame will have the same dimensions. Or if
I'll buy one, and not some other make.. Basically I try to buy the
biggest, most espensive originally, 7-year oldl convertible I can
find. So right now I should be shopping new cars, for my next car 7
years from now. Well, I guess I don't have to because I know this
year the new convertibles are the same models as they were 7 years
ago. Maybe next year they'll have something newer, nicer, or bigger.

If we're all still here in 7 years, I'll post another follow-up. :-)

>nate

On Sat, 5 Nov 2011 23:38:07 +0000 (UTC), Tegger >
wrote:

>Nate Nagel > wrote in
:
>
>> On 11/05/2011 05:01 PM, micky wrote:
>
>>>
>>> The only problem was removing the rear bolt that held on the heat
>>> shield above the muffler. No room for a socket, and my combination
>>> wrench wasn't long enough for much leverage. I used my propane torch
>>> but ran out of gas before it got very hot. The next day I finally
>>> opened my new MAPP gas torch with the trigger sparker. Boy is that
>>> nice. 3 minutes or so on and around the bolt head and when I applied
>>> the wrench it took only one hand and barely any effort at all.
>>>
>>> So my question is, Is the old bolt ruined by being heated like that?
>>> It wasn't glowing red. What if it were glowing red?
>>>
>
><snip>
>
>>
>>
>> I'd replace that one bolt, and install the new one with anti-seize.
>> If nothing else the plating is probably destroyed, and also you likely
>> annealed it. Not a huge deal, but if you plan on removing it again
>> 10-15 years from now you'll have to break out the torch again, and
>> since it's annealed, you run the risk of breaking it off and having to
>> drill it.
>
>
><snip>
>
>
>Nate, it's a /heat-shield bolt/, about as unstressed a bolt as I can think
>of, and one of the least likely to ever need future removal.

When I formed the question in m y head, it was for the sake of other
bolts in the future that I might heat. By the time I got to the
computer, I forgot about that part. So I was really asking if more
important bolts would be ruined by this, not red hot and red hot.

Yeah, this bolt didn't hold up much, and even now, it's just one of 7
holding the hitch on.
>
>I'd say leave it alone and move on to more important things, like making
>sure there's sufficient beer in the trailer for the next camping trip.
>
>In any case, if micky finds the bolt difficult to remove at a later date,
>he can just re-heat it again, just like he did this time.
>
>I'm a bit surprised he didn't set his interior on fire. If he'd got the
>bolt glowing red-hot, he probably /would/ have set his interior on fire!

No, I *didn't* get it red-hot. One question for not red-hot and
another for yes red-hot.

The heat shield and the frame, which is shaped like an O here, made a
pretty big heat sink.

It sort of amazed me how easily and smoothly it came off after being
heated.

On 11/05/2011 08:01 PM, micky wrote:
> On Sat, 5 Nov 2011 23:38:07 +0000 (UTC), >
> wrote:
>
>> Nate > wrote in
>> :
>>
>>> On 11/05/2011 05:01 PM, micky wrote:
>>
>>>>
>>>> The only problem was removing the rear bolt that held on the heat
>>>> shield above the muffler. No room for a socket, and my combination
>>>> wrench wasn't long enough for much leverage. I used my propane torch
>>>> but ran out of gas before it got very hot. The next day I finally
>>>> opened my new MAPP gas torch with the trigger sparker. Boy is that
>>>> nice. 3 minutes or so on and around the bolt head and when I applied
>>>> the wrench it took only one hand and barely any effort at all.
>>>>
>>>> So my question is, Is the old bolt ruined by being heated like that?
>>>> It wasn't glowing red. What if it were glowing red?
>>>>
>>
>> <snip>
>>
>>>
>>>
>>> I'd replace that one bolt, and install the new one with anti-seize.
>>> If nothing else the plating is probably destroyed, and also you likely
>>> annealed it. Not a huge deal, but if you plan on removing it again
>>> 10-15 years from now you'll have to break out the torch again, and
>>> since it's annealed, you run the risk of breaking it off and having to
>>> drill it.
>>
>>
>> <snip>
>>
>>
>> Nate, it's a /heat-shield bolt/, about as unstressed a bolt as I can think
>> of, and one of the least likely to ever need future removal.
>
> When I formed the question in m y head, it was for the sake of other
> bolts in the future that I might heat. By the time I got to the
> computer, I forgot about that part. So I was really asking if more
> important bolts would be ruined by this, not red hot and red hot.
>
> Yeah, this bolt didn't hold up much, and even now, it's just one of 7
> holding the hitch on.
>>
>> I'd say leave it alone and move on to more important things, like making
>> sure there's sufficient beer in the trailer for the next camping trip.
>>
>> In any case, if micky finds the bolt difficult to remove at a later date,
>> he can just re-heat it again, just like he did this time.
>>
>> I'm a bit surprised he didn't set his interior on fire. If he'd got the
>> bolt glowing red-hot, he probably /would/ have set his interior on fire!
>
> No, I *didn't* get it red-hot. One question for not red-hot and
> another for yes red-hot.
>
> The heat shield and the frame, which is shaped like an O here, made a
> pretty big heat sink.
>
> It sort of amazed me how easily and smoothly it came off after being
> heated.

The flame wrench solves a lot of problems. If you work on *old* cars,
it's almost impossible to do some jobs without it (e.g. removing cap
screws from blind holes.) Having a tap and die set around to clean up
old threads is also a must. Anti-seize is your friend. If you've ever
bought a car from me (I know, probably nobody here has) it's obvious
what I've worked on and what I haven't because the stuff that I have
worked on will actually come apart again, because I don't ever assemble
anything without anti-seize

nate

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