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#11
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Stuck passenger door lock (1998 Mercury Grand Marquis LS)
On Thu, 4 Feb 2016 17:49:18 -0800 (PST), Jc Maxwell
> wrote: >On Thursday, February 4, 2016 at 3:57:29 PM UTC-7, Bill Vanek wrote: >> On Thu, 4 Feb 2016 14:48:12 -0800 (PST), Jc Maxwell >> > wrote: >> >> >On Thursday, February 4, 2016 at 2:57:56 PM UTC-7, Bill Vanek wrote: >> >> On Thu, 4 Feb 2016 12:22:09 -0800 (PST), Jc Maxwell >> >> > wrote: >> >> >> >> >point of clarification: By "keyless entry" I mean the remote control fob, which no longer works. The keypad on the driver's door still works fine. >> >> >> >> You sure you don't just have a dead battery in the fob? Or maybe just >> >> a bad fob? It could be a cheap fix. >> > >> >Yes to the first - replaced the battery, to no effect. >> >> Did you program the fob after replacing the battery? It might be >> necessary, even though it's not a new fob. It is necessary with new >> ones. > >Can't do it. My particular model year (1998) requires a trip to the dealer to pair new fobs or keys with the car. First-generation PATS wasn't that great. Try this: https://answers.yahoo.com/question/i...4174802AAFkfTX >I have previously replaced the battery in the fob. It didn't require any special procedure, it just worked. I don't know how that system works, but in general, a battery that stays dead for an extended period can let a device lose its memory, and sometimes things just happen. I think that if either the fob or the module had its memory erased or corrupted, you would have to reprogram. If the method in that link works, it's a cheap fix. Even new fobs appear to be pretty cheap, and worth a try. |
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#12
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Stuck passenger door lock (1998 Mercury Grand Marquis LS)
On Thursday, February 4, 2016 at 7:30:08 PM UTC-7, Bill Vanek wrote:
> I don't know how that system works, but in general, a battery that > stays dead for an extended period can let a device lose its memory, > and sometimes things just happen. I think that if either the fob or > the module had its memory erased or corrupted, you would have to > reprogram. If the method in that link works, it's a cheap fix. Even > new fobs appear to be pretty cheap, and worth a try. Interesting. It's possible that you can pair a fob with the car without going to the dealer, if the method in that Yahoo answer works (and does not fry my PATS module or some such). I definitely had to go to the dealer to get a new key paired with the vehicle. |
#13
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Stuck passenger door lock (1998 Mercury Grand Marquis LS)
Somehow the cell that was in the fob was apparently drained enough (measured at 5.03 V) that the fob wouldn't work. When I put in a fresh Rayovac CR 2032, presto, the car again answered to the fob. Must have been a poor-quality cell the first one.
Thing is, I could swear I tried that a few months ago, to no result. I even wrote on the "new-old" cell with Sharpie the words "new cell" so I wouldn't mix it up with the new-new Rayovac CR2032. Oh well, it works now. Fob response is still not like new though. Sometimes, it takes multiple presses of the button for the vehicle to unlock. Could be the rubber in the fob buttons has become mushy with time and use. Lock and trunk release still work very crisply. The underlying dome switches are still mechanically sound. In fact, the fob innards are in remarkably good shape, for their age and constant use. The old fob casing, however, is in bad shape, with shackle and a couple of corners chipped off. It turns out you can get a new casing & rubber keys (i.e., everything except the electronics & CR2032 cell) for cheap, so I ordered one. |
#14
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Stuck passenger door lock (1998 Mercury Grand Marquis LS)
On Tue, 9 Feb 2016 09:09:04 -0800 (PST), Jc Maxwell
> wrote: >Somehow the cell that was in the fob was apparently drained enough (measured at 5.03 V) that the fob wouldn't work. When I put in a fresh Rayovac CR 2032, presto, the car again answered to the fob. Must have been a poor-quality cell the first one. > >Thing is, I could swear I tried that a few months ago, to no result. I even wrote on the "new-old" cell with Sharpie the words "new cell" so I wouldn't mix it up with the new-new Rayovac CR2032. Oh well, it works now. > >Fob response is still not like new though. Sometimes, it takes multiple presses of the button for the vehicle to unlock. Could be the rubber in the fob buttons has become mushy with time and use. Lock and trunk release still work very crisply. The underlying dome switches are still mechanically sound. In fact, the fob innards are in remarkably good shape, for their age and constant use. > >The old fob casing, however, is in bad shape, with shackle and a couple of corners chipped off. It turns out you can get a new casing & rubber keys (i.e., everything except the electronics & CR2032 cell) for cheap, so I ordered one. It's likely that the battery contacts in the fob have some corrosion, and that is why the remote started working after the battery change. Try cleaning them. |
#15
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Stuck passenger door lock (1998 Mercury Grand Marquis LS)
On Tuesday, February 9, 2016 at 10:19:50 AM UTC-7, Bill Vanek wrote:
> It's likely that the battery contacts in the fob have some corrosion, > and that is why the remote started working after the battery change. > Try cleaning them. They didn't look dirty but I cleaned 'em anyway, using 91% rubbing alcohol. Some of the switches that underlie the buttons did look a little dirty. Cleaned those too. Fob works great now. What a relief! |
#16
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Stuck passenger door lock (1998 Mercury Grand Marquis LS)
Approximately how long does it take to replace a driver door cylinder. I have decent mechanical abilities just never attempted something like this.
-- For full context, visit https://www.motorsforum.com/tech/stu...ls-117659-.htm |
#17
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Stuck passenger door lock (1998 Mercury Grand Marquis LS)
Cruiser wrote:
> Approximately how long does it take to replace a driver door > cylinder. I have decent mechanical abilities just never attempted > something like this. > That one is a pain as the handle has to come off to access the cylinder and those are riveted on. You remove the inner trim, the water shield, release the clip from the handle to the latch. Then lift up the handle and use something to hold it up, then drill out the rivets. Then remove the handle and now you can release the clip on the cylinder and remove it. Install the replacement, install the handle and either rivet it on or use some short pan head screws to re-attach it. Attach the actuating rods and clips to the lock and handle and test it. If it works put the trim back on. Time wise it will normally take about an hour if you have the tools ready and have practice. So figure a DIY first time will take closer to 2 hours or so. Bigger question is why replace it? Is it bad or just no key? If no key a smith may be able to cut you one from the VIN. -- Steve W. |
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