1998 Grand Caravan

Just bought a new to me van, 3.3L with O/D and 206,000 Km's, and hope to get
some information. It's in great shape, no rust, runs well and gives no hint
to any engine/drivability issues at all. My question: Is there anything
that is relatively common to this type of van that I should know about, any
major problems, or recalls that I should check in to? Any replies will be
appreciated,

Dave

Watch out for your tranny. I know the 1991-95 dodge vans had major tranny
issues. I am not sure if they got them fixed or not. I knew someone who
put 3 trannies in thier's before they traded it off.

great combination

we had the 3.3 / 604 in a 91 Dynasty and now in a 93 Voyager

check belt tensioner regularly for seizing of the pivot

change transmission fluid religiously; make sure there's an o-ring on the
new filter

keep an eye on transmission cooler lines for leaks at the clamps


"Dave O" > wrote in message
.. .
> Just bought a new to me van, 3.3L with O/D and 206,000 Km's, and hope to
get
> some information. It's in great shape, no rust, runs well and gives no
hint
> to any engine/drivability issues at all. My question: Is there anything
> that is relatively common to this type of van that I should know about,
any
> major problems, or recalls that I should check in to? Any replies will be
> appreciated,
>
> Dave
>
>

Most of the nasty tranny problems from the early 90s were fixed by
this time. The main thing is change that fluid! Take it to a competant
tranny shop, and have the fluid changed. Depending upon the amount of
driving, I would say every couple of years. This service is one where
they drop the pan and replace the internal filter. DO NOT let them
pressure flush the tranny. DO NOT let ANY shop lay a hand on that
transmission if they want to put anything other than ATF +4 fluid in
it. Dexron III with Lube-guard DOES NOT CUT IT. Make sure they drop
the pan. DO NOT let them just drain and refill with new fluid.

The only other problem I have heard of in the late 90s was that there
is a main pin inside which can wear and come loose. The car will run
fine until the pin completely falls out. If this happens at highway
speeds, then the force of the pin will cause it to blast through the
side of the transmission casing. This is a VERY expensive repair.

I do not know if it is possible for the trans shop to inspect this pin
when the pan is dropped, but if it is possible, then you might want to
have it checked.

I have a 94 GC with that trans. When mine was rebuilt, a special
bracket was installed which absolutely prevents this from happening.
The pin may come lose and rattle, but it is NOT possible for it to
cause any significant damage as reported above. DC knows full well of
the problem, and is NOT prepared to assist customers unless the van is
fairly new, and within some mileage limit (110,000 kms I think). After
that, you are on your own.

The 3.3 engine is a total work horse. Periodically check the belt
tensioner. With mine, the bearing for the tensioning wheel was
starting to go, and squeeking quite loudly. That was around 165,000
kms. Replacing the tensioner is a fairly inexpensive repair. Probably
cheaper than a tow! If the tensioner fails, you WILL be stranded and
need a tow.

Have the front end checked periodically. One fellow locally had ball
joints wear out prematurely which caused him a lot of grief. I have
had mine regularly inspected, and have yet to come even close to
replacing them - so I think this guy was just unlucky. In any case,
better safe than sorry.

Other than that, enjoy the ride! I love my mini-van. It holds all my
kids, all our stuff, has power to spare, and - touch wood - has never
left me stranded.

Happy motoring.

On Wed, 8 Mar 2006 13:31:03 -0500, "Dave O" >
wrote:

>Just bought a new to me van, 3.3L with O/D and 206,000 Km's, and hope to get
>some information. It's in great shape, no rust, runs well and gives no hint
>to any engine/drivability issues at all. My question: Is there anything
>that is relatively common to this type of van that I should know about, any
>major problems, or recalls that I should check in to? Any replies will be
>appreciated,
>
>Dave
>

"NewMan" > wrote in message
...
> Most of the nasty tranny problems from the early 90s were fixed by
> this time. The main thing is change that fluid! Take it to a competant
> tranny shop, and have the fluid changed. Depending upon the amount of
> driving, I would say every couple of years. This service is one where
> they drop the pan and replace the internal filter. DO NOT let them
> pressure flush the tranny. DO NOT let ANY shop lay a hand on that
> transmission if they want to put anything other than ATF +4 fluid in
> it. Dexron III with Lube-guard DOES NOT CUT IT. Make sure they drop
> the pan. DO NOT let them just drain and refill with new fluid.

ATF +4 did not arrive till 2000

ATF +3 is specified, you can use +4 but it's needless expense

>
> The only other problem I have heard of in the late 90s was that there
> is a main pin inside which can wear and come loose. The car will run
> fine until the pin completely falls out. If this happens at highway
> speeds, then the force of the pin will cause it to blast through the
> side of the transmission casing. This is a VERY expensive repair.
>
> I do not know if it is possible for the trans shop to inspect this pin
> when the pan is dropped, but if it is possible, then you might want to
> have it checked.

nope; unless they take the differential cover off

usually caused by spinning one wheel

if on snowy / icy pavement, do NOT allow wheels to start spinning

when they 'catch', it will shear off the 'underdrive hub'

>
> I have a 94 GC with that trans. When mine was rebuilt, a special
> bracket was installed which absolutely prevents this from happening.
> The pin may come lose and rattle, but it is NOT possible for it to
> cause any significant damage as reported above. DC knows full well of
> the problem, and is NOT prepared to assist customers unless the van is
> fairly new, and within some mileage limit (110,000 kms I think). After
> that, you are on your own.
>
> The 3.3 engine is a total work horse. Periodically check the belt
> tensioner. With mine, the bearing for the tensioning wheel was
> starting to go, and squeeking quite loudly. That was around 165,000
> kms. Replacing the tensioner is a fairly inexpensive repair. Probably
> cheaper than a tow! If the tensioner fails, you WILL be stranded and
> need a tow.

you need a 15 mm deep socket, 6" extension, swivel, and long extension

go at it from underneath

>
> Have the front end checked periodically. One fellow locally had ball
> joints wear out prematurely which caused him a lot of grief. I have
> had mine regularly inspected, and have yet to come even close to
> replacing them - so I think this guy was just unlucky. In any case,
> better safe than sorry.
>
> Other than that, enjoy the ride! I love my mini-van. It holds all my
> kids, all our stuff, has power to spare, and - touch wood - has never
> left me stranded.

when descending steep grades, put selector in '3'

this locks torque converter and provides engine braking


>
> Happy motoring.
>
> On Wed, 8 Mar 2006 13:31:03 -0500, "Dave O" >
> wrote:
>
> >Just bought a new to me van, 3.3L with O/D and 206,000 Km's, and hope to
get
> >some information. It's in great shape, no rust, runs well and gives no
hint
> >to any engine/drivability issues at all. My question: Is there anything
> >that is relatively common to this type of van that I should know about,
any
> >major problems, or recalls that I should check in to? Any replies will
be
> >appreciated,
> >
> >Dave
> >
>

Ok, I'm confused . . . .

Gary,

We ended up buying a rebuilt 604 and installing it after I started having
some chest pains again. No heart attack, just a warning. Now we're like that
guy in the home loan commercials, in debt up to our eyeballs. Btw, found out
the one we took out was a rebuilt unit probably from AAMCO. . . but it
lasted 40,000 miles with a 25 year old lead foot driving it in sunny Florida
for 25,000 of those miles.

I got it programmed pretty easily out on a back road and it seems to be
fine.

"Gary Glaenzer" > wrote in message
news:vLLPf.72361$_A4.25472@trnddc06...
>
>
>
> "NewMan" > wrote in message
> ...
>> Most of the nasty tranny problems from the early 90s were fixed by
>> this time. The main thing is change that fluid! Take it to a competant
>> tranny shop, and have the fluid changed. Depending upon the amount of
>> driving, I would say every couple of years. This service is one where
>> they drop the pan and replace the internal filter. DO NOT let them
>> pressure flush the tranny. DO NOT let ANY shop lay a hand on that
>> transmission if they want to put anything other than ATF +4 fluid in
>> it. Dexron III with Lube-guard DOES NOT CUT IT. Make sure they drop
>> the pan. DO NOT let them just drain and refill with new fluid.
>
> ATF +4 did not arrive till 2000
>
> ATF +3 is specified, you can use +4 but it's needless expense

I have to either order ATF+4 by the case or go to Grand Juction CO to get it
as no one will stock it locally. I can get ATF+3 locally. Is there a way to
tell if the rebuilt needs the expensive stuff? The Mopar tag on the case
says it was originally built in 95.
>
>>
>> The only other problem I have heard of in the late 90s was that there
>> is a main pin inside which can wear and come loose. The car will run
>> fine until the pin completely falls out. If this happens at highway
>> speeds, then the force of the pin will cause it to blast through the
>> side of the transmission casing. This is a VERY expensive repair.
>>
>> I do not know if it is possible for the trans shop to inspect this pin
>> when the pan is dropped, but if it is possible, then you might want to
>> have it checked.
>
> nope; unless they take the differential cover off
>
> usually caused by spinning one wheel
>
> if on snowy / icy pavement, do NOT allow wheels to start spinning
>
> when they 'catch', it will shear off the 'underdrive hub'

Is this something my car can have trouble with? I don't spin tires much
anymore, but is it something I should avoid at all costs?
>
>>
>> I have a 94 GC with that trans. When mine was rebuilt, a special
>> bracket was installed which absolutely prevents this from happening.
>> The pin may come lose and rattle, but it is NOT possible for it to
>> cause any significant damage as reported above. DC knows full well of
>> the problem, and is NOT prepared to assist customers unless the van is
>> fairly new, and within some mileage limit (110,000 kms I think). After
>> that, you are on your own.
>>
>> The 3.3 engine is a total work horse. Periodically check the belt
>> tensioner. With mine, the bearing for the tensioning wheel was
>> starting to go, and squeeking quite loudly. That was around 165,000
>> kms. Replacing the tensioner is a fairly inexpensive repair. Probably
>> cheaper than a tow! If the tensioner fails, you WILL be stranded and
>> need a tow.
>
> you need a 15 mm deep socket, 6" extension, swivel, and long extension
>
> go at it from underneath
>
>>
>> Have the front end checked periodically. One fellow locally had ball
>> joints wear out prematurely which caused him a lot of grief. I have
>> had mine regularly inspected, and have yet to come even close to
>> replacing them - so I think this guy was just unlucky. In any case,
>> better safe than sorry.
>>
>> Other than that, enjoy the ride! I love my mini-van. It holds all my
>> kids, all our stuff, has power to spare, and - touch wood - has never
>> left me stranded.
>
> when descending steep grades, put selector in '3'
>
> this locks torque converter and provides engine braking

I wish I had this kind of control with my Lebaron. The detents on the
transmission shift shaft figure out to be the same as for the vans, but the
shifter inside has only P-R-N-D-3-1 positions."3" is a "sport" mode that
won't shift into direct until over 50 mph.

Budd


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"Budd Cochran" <mr-d150@preciscom SPAM.net> wrote in message
om...
> Ok, I'm confused . . . .

Yea, this we know :-)

"Budd Cochran" <mr-d150@preciscom SPAM.net> wrote in message
om...
> Ok, I'm confused . . . .
>
> Gary,
>
> We ended up buying a rebuilt 604 and installing it after I started having
> some chest pains again. No heart attack, just a warning. Now we're like
that
> guy in the home loan commercials, in debt up to our eyeballs. Btw, found
out
> the one we took out was a rebuilt unit probably from AAMCO. . . but it
> lasted 40,000 miles with a 25 year old lead foot driving it in sunny
Florida
> for 25,000 of those miles.
>
> I got it programmed pretty easily out on a back road and it seems to be
> fine.
>
> "Gary Glaenzer" > wrote in message
> news:vLLPf.72361$_A4.25472@trnddc06...
> >
> >
> >
> > "NewMan" > wrote in message
> > ...
> >> Most of the nasty tranny problems from the early 90s were fixed by
> >> this time. The main thing is change that fluid! Take it to a competant
> >> tranny shop, and have the fluid changed. Depending upon the amount of
> >> driving, I would say every couple of years. This service is one where
> >> they drop the pan and replace the internal filter. DO NOT let them
> >> pressure flush the tranny. DO NOT let ANY shop lay a hand on that
> >> transmission if they want to put anything other than ATF +4 fluid in
> >> it. Dexron III with Lube-guard DOES NOT CUT IT. Make sure they drop
> >> the pan. DO NOT let them just drain and refill with new fluid.
> >
> > ATF +4 did not arrive till 2000
> >
> > ATF +3 is specified, you can use +4 but it's needless expense
>
> I have to either order ATF+4 by the case or go to Grand Juction CO to get
it
> as no one will stock it locally. I can get ATF+3 locally. Is there a way
to
> tell if the rebuilt needs the expensive stuff? The Mopar tag on the case
> says it was originally built in 95.

what did the paperwork with the reman say ?

> >
> >>
> >> The only other problem I have heard of in the late 90s was that there
> >> is a main pin inside which can wear and come loose. The car will run
> >> fine until the pin completely falls out. If this happens at highway
> >> speeds, then the force of the pin will cause it to blast through the
> >> side of the transmission casing. This is a VERY expensive repair.
> >>
> >> I do not know if it is possible for the trans shop to inspect this pin
> >> when the pan is dropped, but if it is possible, then you might want to
> >> have it checked.
> >
> > nope; unless they take the differential cover off
> >
> > usually caused by spinning one wheel
> >
> > if on snowy / icy pavement, do NOT allow wheels to start spinning
> >
> > when they 'catch', it will shear off the 'underdrive hub'
>
> Is this something my car can have trouble with? I don't spin tires much
> anymore, but is it something I should avoid at all costs?

yes

> >
> >>
> >> I have a 94 GC with that trans. When mine was rebuilt, a special
> >> bracket was installed which absolutely prevents this from happening.
> >> The pin may come lose and rattle, but it is NOT possible for it to
> >> cause any significant damage as reported above. DC knows full well of
> >> the problem, and is NOT prepared to assist customers unless the van is
> >> fairly new, and within some mileage limit (110,000 kms I think). After
> >> that, you are on your own.
> >>
> >> The 3.3 engine is a total work horse. Periodically check the belt
> >> tensioner. With mine, the bearing for the tensioning wheel was
> >> starting to go, and squeeking quite loudly. That was around 165,000
> >> kms. Replacing the tensioner is a fairly inexpensive repair. Probably
> >> cheaper than a tow! If the tensioner fails, you WILL be stranded and
> >> need a tow.
> >
> > you need a 15 mm deep socket, 6" extension, swivel, and long extension
> >
> > go at it from underneath
> >
> >>
> >> Have the front end checked periodically. One fellow locally had ball
> >> joints wear out prematurely which caused him a lot of grief. I have
> >> had mine regularly inspected, and have yet to come even close to
> >> replacing them - so I think this guy was just unlucky. In any case,
> >> better safe than sorry.
> >>
> >> Other than that, enjoy the ride! I love my mini-van. It holds all my
> >> kids, all our stuff, has power to spare, and - touch wood - has never
> >> left me stranded.
> >
> > when descending steep grades, put selector in '3'
> >
> > this locks torque converter and provides engine braking
>
> I wish I had this kind of control with my Lebaron. The detents on the
> transmission shift shaft figure out to be the same as for the vans, but
the
> shifter inside has only P-R-N-D-3-1 positions."3" is a "sport" mode that
> won't shift into direct until over 50 mph.

3 IS 'direct'

just use '3' when descending long grades and save your brakes


>
> Budd
>
>
> *** Free account sponsored by SecureIX.com ***
> *** Encrypt your Internet usage with a free VPN account from
http://www.SecureIX.com ***

"Gary Glaenzer" > wrote in message
news:uYUPf.31207$W42.21741@trnddc02...
>
> "Budd Cochran" <mr-d150@preciscom SPAM.net> wrote in message
> om...
>> Ok, I'm confused . . . .
>>
>> Gary,
>>
>> We ended up buying a rebuilt 604 and installing it after I started having
>> some chest pains again. No heart attack, just a warning. Now we're like
> that
>> guy in the home loan commercials, in debt up to our eyeballs. Btw, found
> out
>> the one we took out was a rebuilt unit probably from AAMCO. . . but it
>> lasted 40,000 miles with a 25 year old lead foot driving it in sunny
> Florida
>> for 25,000 of those miles.
>>
>> I got it programmed pretty easily out on a back road and it seems to be
>> fine.
>>
>> "Gary Glaenzer" > wrote in message
>> news:vLLPf.72361$_A4.25472@trnddc06...
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > "NewMan" > wrote in message
>> > ...
>> >> Most of the nasty tranny problems from the early 90s were fixed by
>> >> this time. The main thing is change that fluid! Take it to a competant
>> >> tranny shop, and have the fluid changed. Depending upon the amount of
>> >> driving, I would say every couple of years. This service is one where
>> >> they drop the pan and replace the internal filter. DO NOT let them
>> >> pressure flush the tranny. DO NOT let ANY shop lay a hand on that
>> >> transmission if they want to put anything other than ATF +4 fluid in
>> >> it. Dexron III with Lube-guard DOES NOT CUT IT. Make sure they drop
>> >> the pan. DO NOT let them just drain and refill with new fluid.
>> >
>> > ATF +4 did not arrive till 2000
>> >
>> > ATF +3 is specified, you can use +4 but it's needless expense
>>
>> I have to either order ATF+4 by the case or go to Grand Juction CO to get
> it
>> as no one will stock it locally. I can get ATF+3 locally. Is there a way
> to
>> tell if the rebuilt needs the expensive stuff? The Mopar tag on the case
>> says it was originally built in 95.
>
> what did the paperwork with the reman say ?

"Dexron III / ATF+3" That's why it concerned me. The date of original
manufacture for the transwas 95, an ATF+4 unit, but the rebuilder says
otherwise. It's got ATF+4 in it and the upshifts are smooth and kickdowns
clean and solid.

>
>> >
>> >>
>> >> The only other problem I have heard of in the late 90s was that there
>> >> is a main pin inside which can wear and come loose. The car will run
>> >> fine until the pin completely falls out. If this happens at highway
>> >> speeds, then the force of the pin will cause it to blast through the
>> >> side of the transmission casing. This is a VERY expensive repair.
>> >>
>> >> I do not know if it is possible for the trans shop to inspect this pin
>> >> when the pan is dropped, but if it is possible, then you might want to
>> >> have it checked.
>> >
>> > nope; unless they take the differential cover off
>> >
>> > usually caused by spinning one wheel
>> >
>> > if on snowy / icy pavement, do NOT allow wheels to start spinning
>> >
>> > when they 'catch', it will shear off the 'underdrive hub'
>>
>> Is this something my car can have trouble with? I don't spin tires much
>> anymore, but is it something I should avoid at all costs?
>
> yes

I was afraid you'd say that. Darn. My wife has decided to start driving
again so I'll have to teach her to avoid tire spin.
>
>> >
>> >>
>> >> I have a 94 GC with that trans. When mine was rebuilt, a special
>> >> bracket was installed which absolutely prevents this from happening.
>> >> The pin may come lose and rattle, but it is NOT possible for it to
>> >> cause any significant damage as reported above. DC knows full well of
>> >> the problem, and is NOT prepared to assist customers unless the van is
>> >> fairly new, and within some mileage limit (110,000 kms I think). After
>> >> that, you are on your own.
>> >>
>> >> The 3.3 engine is a total work horse. Periodically check the belt
>> >> tensioner. With mine, the bearing for the tensioning wheel was
>> >> starting to go, and squeeking quite loudly. That was around 165,000
>> >> kms. Replacing the tensioner is a fairly inexpensive repair. Probably
>> >> cheaper than a tow! If the tensioner fails, you WILL be stranded and
>> >> need a tow.
>> >
>> > you need a 15 mm deep socket, 6" extension, swivel, and long extension
>> >
>> > go at it from underneath
>> >
>> >>
>> >> Have the front end checked periodically. One fellow locally had ball
>> >> joints wear out prematurely which caused him a lot of grief. I have
>> >> had mine regularly inspected, and have yet to come even close to
>> >> replacing them - so I think this guy was just unlucky. In any case,
>> >> better safe than sorry.
>> >>
>> >> Other than that, enjoy the ride! I love my mini-van. It holds all my
>> >> kids, all our stuff, has power to spare, and - touch wood - has never
>> >> left me stranded.
>> >
>> > when descending steep grades, put selector in '3'
>> >
>> > this locks torque converter and provides engine braking
>>
>> I wish I had this kind of control with my Lebaron. The detents on the
>> transmission shift shaft figure out to be the same as for the vans, but
> the
>> shifter inside has only P-R-N-D-3-1 positions."3" is a "sport" mode that
>> won't shift into direct until over 50 mph.
>
> 3 IS 'direct'
>
> just use '3' when descending long grades and save your brakes

My concern was for when I tow a small boat trailer in these mountains or a
1/2 ton trailer load of rubbish out to the transfer station

Thanks.

Budd


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On Thu, 9 Mar 2006 06:46:11 -0700, "Budd Cochran" <mr-d150@preciscom
SPAM.net> wrote:

>
>"Gary Glaenzer" > wrote in message
>news:uYUPf.31207$W42.21741@trnddc02...
>>
>> "Budd Cochran" <mr-d150@preciscom SPAM.net> wrote in message
>> om...
>>> Ok, I'm confused . . . .
>>>
>>> Gary,
>>>
>>> We ended up buying a rebuilt 604 and installing it after I started having
>>> some chest pains again. No heart attack, just a warning. Now we're like
>> that
>>> guy in the home loan commercials, in debt up to our eyeballs. Btw, found
>> out
>>> the one we took out was a rebuilt unit probably from AAMCO. . . but it
>>> lasted 40,000 miles with a 25 year old lead foot driving it in sunny
>> Florida
>>> for 25,000 of those miles.
>>>
>>> I got it programmed pretty easily out on a back road and it seems to be
>>> fine.
>>>
>>> "Gary Glaenzer" > wrote in message
>>> news:vLLPf.72361$_A4.25472@trnddc06...
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>> > "NewMan" > wrote in message
>>> > ...
>>> >> Most of the nasty tranny problems from the early 90s were fixed by
>>> >> this time. The main thing is change that fluid! Take it to a competant
>>> >> tranny shop, and have the fluid changed. Depending upon the amount of
>>> >> driving, I would say every couple of years. This service is one where
>>> >> they drop the pan and replace the internal filter. DO NOT let them
>>> >> pressure flush the tranny. DO NOT let ANY shop lay a hand on that
>>> >> transmission if they want to put anything other than ATF +4 fluid in
>>> >> it. Dexron III with Lube-guard DOES NOT CUT IT. Make sure they drop
>>> >> the pan. DO NOT let them just drain and refill with new fluid.
>>> >
>>> > ATF +4 did not arrive till 2000
>>> >
>>> > ATF +3 is specified, you can use +4 but it's needless expense
>>>
>>> I have to either order ATF+4 by the case or go to Grand Juction CO to get
>> it
>>> as no one will stock it locally. I can get ATF+3 locally. Is there a way
>> to
>>> tell if the rebuilt needs the expensive stuff? The Mopar tag on the case
>>> says it was originally built in 95.
>>
>> what did the paperwork with the reman say ?
>
>"Dexron III / ATF+3" That's why it concerned me. The date of original
>manufacture for the transwas 95, an ATF+4 unit, but the rebuilder says
>otherwise. It's got ATF+4 in it and the upshifts are smooth and kickdowns
>clean and solid.
>

With a transmission that age, you could probably use ATF +3. What I
found is that most trans shops don't want to stock different kinds of
fluid. Most shops in my area ONLY have Dexron III, and they add
"lubeguard" for Chrysler trannys. I have onyl found one or two shops
that have "ATF", and they refuse to stock both +3 and +4, so have
decided to buy ATF +4. Not sure if they buy it in bulk or not.

My experience is similar to yours! I have a 94GC. THe original rebuild
had Dexron III + lubeguard in it. It ran "ok" but not great. When I
recently had the solenoid pack replaced, I had them drop the pan and
replace the internal filter, and refill with ATF +4.

My trans now shifts like and absolute dream. Smoother than ever. No
more "thump" when dropping into low gear while slowing to a stop. All
running perfectly. From my experience, you can't go wrong with ATF +4.
How expensive is it really when compared with the cost of pre-mature
transmission failure???

>>
>>> >
>>> >>
>>> >> The only other problem I have heard of in the late 90s was that there
>>> >> is a main pin inside which can wear and come loose. The car will run
>>> >> fine until the pin completely falls out. If this happens at highway
>>> >> speeds, then the force of the pin will cause it to blast through the
>>> >> side of the transmission casing. This is a VERY expensive repair.
>>> >>
>>> >> I do not know if it is possible for the trans shop to inspect this pin
>>> >> when the pan is dropped, but if it is possible, then you might want to
>>> >> have it checked.
>>> >
>>> > nope; unless they take the differential cover off
>>> >
>>> > usually caused by spinning one wheel
>>> >
>>> > if on snowy / icy pavement, do NOT allow wheels to start spinning
>>> >
>>> > when they 'catch', it will shear off the 'underdrive hub'
>>>
>>> Is this something my car can have trouble with? I don't spin tires much
>>> anymore, but is it something I should avoid at all costs?
>>
>> yes
>
>I was afraid you'd say that. Darn. My wife has decided to start driving
>again so I'll have to teach her to avoid tire spin.
>>
>>> >
>>> >>
>>> >> I have a 94 GC with that trans. When mine was rebuilt, a special
>>> >> bracket was installed which absolutely prevents this from happening.
>>> >> The pin may come lose and rattle, but it is NOT possible for it to
>>> >> cause any significant damage as reported above. DC knows full well of
>>> >> the problem, and is NOT prepared to assist customers unless the van is
>>> >> fairly new, and within some mileage limit (110,000 kms I think). After
>>> >> that, you are on your own.
>>> >>
>>> >> The 3.3 engine is a total work horse. Periodically check the belt
>>> >> tensioner. With mine, the bearing for the tensioning wheel was
>>> >> starting to go, and squeeking quite loudly. That was around 165,000
>>> >> kms. Replacing the tensioner is a fairly inexpensive repair. Probably
>>> >> cheaper than a tow! If the tensioner fails, you WILL be stranded and
>>> >> need a tow.
>>> >
>>> > you need a 15 mm deep socket, 6" extension, swivel, and long extension
>>> >
>>> > go at it from underneath
>>> >
>>> >>
>>> >> Have the front end checked periodically. One fellow locally had ball
>>> >> joints wear out prematurely which caused him a lot of grief. I have
>>> >> had mine regularly inspected, and have yet to come even close to
>>> >> replacing them - so I think this guy was just unlucky. In any case,
>>> >> better safe than sorry.
>>> >>
>>> >> Other than that, enjoy the ride! I love my mini-van. It holds all my
>>> >> kids, all our stuff, has power to spare, and - touch wood - has never
>>> >> left me stranded.
>>> >
>>> > when descending steep grades, put selector in '3'
>>> >
>>> > this locks torque converter and provides engine braking
>>>
>>> I wish I had this kind of control with my Lebaron. The detents on the
>>> transmission shift shaft figure out to be the same as for the vans, but
>> the
>>> shifter inside has only P-R-N-D-3-1 positions."3" is a "sport" mode that
>>> won't shift into direct until over 50 mph.
>>
>> 3 IS 'direct'
>>
>> just use '3' when descending long grades and save your brakes
>
>My concern was for when I tow a small boat trailer in these mountains or a
>1/2 ton trailer load of rubbish out to the transfer station
>
>Thanks.
>
>Budd
>

Even though the torque converter is "locked in" to the mechanical
system, this just makes it perform like the trannys did in the "old
days" before the lock-out torque converter. There will be SOME
breaking, but it will be minimal. Automatic tranmissions are NOT
designed to provide engine braking like a manual tranmission is.

I agree with the advice though. "3" is the appropriate slection for
towing anything through mountains. It will keep the RPMs up slightly
and give you the torque you need. It will also prevent needless
shifting of the trans under heavy load.

The plain fact is that putting load on the A604 transmission is going
to shorten its service life, period. As refined as the design is now,
it still sucks when compared to the old tranmissions that were
tricked-out with a "shift kit". So much for progress and improvement.

>
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