sticking caliper?

On Oct 17, 4:24*pm, Tegger > wrote:
> Zephyr > wrote :
>
>
>
> > hmm, *I'm rethinking it again, after re reading your bit about rust
> > under the shims.. *I know I had to pry off the the old pads with a
> > screwdriver and they popped out of place pretty smartly after getting
> > a bigger screwdriver... *I gave lip service to cleaning under the
> > shims with a screwdriver, and was able to place the new pads in by
> > hand, but, it wasn't loose.
> > I live in SE Michigan, on a dirt road where they put calcium chloride
> > down in the summers... can't think of many *worse places for steel
> > brake parts to live...
>
> "Lip service" doesn't help much. You have to clean ALL the rust off. Those
> pads must be LOOSE.
>
> Both pins, plus both pads, on each side, MUST be /perfectly free/ to move
> in their positions. ANY stickiness will create uneven pad wear.
>
> It's possible the hydraulic piston is sticking, but that would cause uneven
> wear on that side (on BOTH pads) versus the pads on the other side. It's
> even possible you have a combination of problems.
>
> To easily check for a sticky piston, you can do one of three things:
>
> 1) Get an infrared thermometer for between $30 and $80. The sticky side
> will be much hotter than the non-sticky side.
> <http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/misc/infrared-thermometer.jpg>
>
> 2) After a drive, feel the wheel nuts with a fingertip. The sticky side
> will be much hotter than the non-sticky side.
>
> 3) Elevate the end of the car with the suspected sticky piston. Remove both
> road wheels, remove the calipers from the mount brackets and hang them
> properly. Push the pistons back in all the way. Now step on the brake pedal
> all the way to the floor about eight times. Is one piston ejected LESS than
> the other? Then that piston is sticky.
>
> Make sure there is sufficient fluid in the master cylinder that it doesn't
> run dry when you do #3. And do not perform #3 if the brake fluid has not
> been changed in five years or more.
>
> By the way, I've been experiemnting with high-build zinc primer as the
> anti-corrosion medium in place of grease between the slide shims and the
> mount bracket. It's worked well, and I've been meaning to update the site
> to show that.
>
> --
> Tegger
>
> The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQwww.tegger.com/hondafaq/

K, so I got a night to look at the wheel in question
its the rear left.. rear right is in perfect fine shape... The
inside pad on the rear left is down to the squeely (whatever you call
it "wear indicator" ) the outside pad is at least twice as thick as
the inside, though probably only half the thickness of the outside
pad on the rear right ( and yes, they were replaced at the same
time... )
The upper of the two pins was a little sticky, I could spin it free
by hand, but compared to the lower pin it was a bit tight... I sanded
it down and put some syl-glyde in there, and it seems good...
Now the fun...
I had a beast of a time turning in the caliper piston, that is at
first, the first 4 or 5 quarter rotations were very difficult..
( one hand holding the caliper, the other with a flat file laying in
the groove of the X pattern on the piston head, pulling to the point
of my file flexing) After a few rotations, though it was much easier
to turn, though no where easy enough to spin with a large
screwdriver. Once I finally got the piston in far enough I notice
that the piston boot was dislodged though... not sure If I just did
it now, or if it had been that way. but, I have part of the rubber
boot coming free, so. I think I'm going to order a new
caliper..

hopefully short term I can get the boot back in a decent place so that
I can still drive till the new caliper gets here.

So the question is this, I only need to get the one side right, I
couldn't think of a reason to get the other side as well as it seems
to be in good shape, but, Just though I would post to get all of your
opinions.

thanks again to all

Dave

Zephyr > wrote in
:


>
> K, so I got a night to look at the wheel in question
> its the rear left.. rear right is in perfect fine shape... The
> inside pad on the rear left is down to the squeely (whatever you call
> it "wear indicator" ) the outside pad is at least twice as thick as
> the inside, though probably only half the thickness of the outside
> pad on the rear right ( and yes, they were replaced at the same
> time... )



Then you still have a sticky pin or outer pad. No way around this, my
friend.

What the piston itself is doing isn't important in the context of that
inner pad.

--
Tegger

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

Tegger > wrote in news:Xns9CA9D801325B9tegger@
208.90.168.18:

> Zephyr > wrote in
> :
>
>
>>
>> K, so I got a night to look at the wheel in question
>> its the rear left.. rear right is in perfect fine shape... The
>> inside pad on the rear left is down to the squeely (whatever you call
>> it "wear indicator" ) the outside pad is at least twice as thick as
>> the inside, though probably only half the thickness of the outside
>> pad on the rear right ( and yes, they were replaced at the same
>> time... )
>
>
>
> Then you still have a sticky pin or outer pad. No way around this, my
> friend.
>
> What the piston itself is doing isn't important in the context of that
> inner pad.
>


Although it does indeed appear that the piston is sticking as well.

I did earlier give a method of diagnosing a sticky piston, but for the rear
brakes you need to cut the number of pedal presses to 2 or 3, NOT eight.
The rear pistons eject a _LOT_ farther than the front ones do!

--
Tegger

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

On Oct 19, 9:23*pm, Tegger > wrote:
> Tegger > wrote in news:Xns9CA9D801325B9tegger@
> 208.90.168.18:
>
>
>
>
>
> > Zephyr > wrote in
> :
>
> >> K, *so I got a night to look at the wheel *in question
> >> its the rear left.. *rear right is in perfect fine shape... *The
> >> inside pad on the rear left is *down to the squeely (whatever you call
> >> it "wear indicator" ) *the outside pad is at least twice as *thick as
> >> the inside, though probably only half *the thickness of *the outside
> >> pad on the rear *right ( and yes, they were replaced at the same
> >> time... *)
>
> > Then you still have a sticky pin or outer pad. No way around this, my
> > friend.
>
> > What the piston itself is doing isn't important in the context of that
> > inner pad.
>
> Although it does indeed appear that the piston is sticking as well.
>
> I did earlier give a method of diagnosing a sticky piston, but for the rear
> brakes you need to cut the number of pedal presses to 2 or 3, NOT eight.
> The rear pistons eject a _LOT_ farther than the front ones do!
>
> --
> Tegger
>
> The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQwww.tegger.com/hondafaq/

I went back to the pads and compared again, holding them side by
side. They actually are much closer in thickness than it first
appeared, I looked at the boot on the caliper piston, and there
was junk on the inside edge of the seal that has been sitting for a
while, so, I'm pretty sold on the caliper being sticky for a while
now... At the rate these pads wore out I'm thinking it must have
been March or April that the caliper started to go as the rear pads
before were definitely worn heavier on the left than on the right as
well. So, I'm going to order a new caliper tonight. I'll be
checking back in once it arrives for some insight on installation...
Looks straight forward, one bolt for the lines, and slip off the
clip for the e-brake. Just have to get some help with the bleeding of
the lines. Maybe this is a good time to replace the fluid? I'll
have to read up on how to do that.

thanks again

Dave

Zephyr > wrote in
:


>
> I went back to the pads and compared again, holding them side by
> side. They actually are much closer in thickness than it first
> appeared, I looked at the boot on the caliper piston, and there
> was junk on the inside edge of the seal that has been sitting for a
> while, so, I'm pretty sold on the caliper being sticky for a while
> now... At the rate these pads wore out I'm thinking it must have
> been March or April that the caliper started to go as the rear pads
> before were definitely worn heavier on the left than on the right as
> well. So, I'm going to order a new caliper tonight. I'll be
> checking back in once it arrives for some insight on installation...
> Looks straight forward, one bolt for the lines, and slip off the
> clip for the e-brake.



That's pretty much it. It's best if you get a couple of new copper washers
for the hydraulic fitting.



> Just have to get some help with the bleeding of
> the lines. Maybe this is a good time to replace the fluid? I'll
> have to read up on how to do that.
>


You MUST do a thorough bleed, as anything less will leave air in the new
caliper and you'll have a soft pedal.

That caliper is really complex inside, with many nooks and crannies that
trap air bubbles. Get a nylon mallet while you're at the parts place;
you'll need it.


--
Tegger

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

On Oct 20, 6:39*am, Tegger > wrote:
> Zephyr > wrote :
>
>
>
> > I went back to the pads and compared again, holding *them side by
> > side. *They actually are much closer in thickness than it first
> > appeared, * I looked *at the boot *on the caliper piston, *and there
> > was junk on the inside edge of the seal that has been sitting for a
> > while, so, I'm pretty sold on the caliper being sticky for a while
> > now... *At the rate these pads wore * out I'm thinking *it must have
> > been March or April that the caliper started to go as the rear pads
> > before were definitely worn heavier on the left than on the right as
> > well. *So, I'm going to order a new caliper tonight. * *I'll be
> > checking back in once it arrives for some insight on installation...
> > Looks straight forward, *one bolt for the lines, and slip off *the
> > clip for the e-brake.
>
> That's pretty much it. It's best if you get a couple of new copper washers
> for the hydraulic fitting.
>
> > *Just have to get some help with the bleeding of
> > the lines. * Maybe this *is a good time to replace the fluid? *I'll
> > have to read up on how to do *that.
>
> You MUST do a thorough bleed, as anything less will leave air in the new
> caliper and you'll have a soft pedal.
>
> That caliper is really complex inside, with many nooks and crannies that
> trap air bubbles. Get a nylon mallet while you're at the parts place;
> you'll need it.
>
> --
> Tegger
>
> The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQwww.tegger.com/hondafaq/

So, I got the new caliper on last night, went on without any major
issues, biggest problem was finding hose to help with the line
bleeding, ( ended up using some gas line from an old weed whip)
Everything went on just like it should have, no stuck bolts that
couldn't be freed ect.. Thanks to all for you help!

Once I got the old caliper off and could pull at the piston boot
without worry, I could definitely tell what the problem was. There
was a good amount of rust on the side of the piston.

thanks again.

Dave

Zephyr > wrote in
:


>
> So, I got the new caliper on last night, went on without any major
> issues, biggest problem was finding hose to help with the line
> bleeding, ( ended up using some gas line from an old weed whip)
> Everything went on just like it should have, no stuck bolts that
> couldn't be freed ect.. Thanks to all for you help!


Good news! Glad to know it went well.

I've had trouble in the past getting the pedal to feel as firm as it should
be without some work knocking bubbles free. Surprised yours didn't present
that issue.



>
> Once I got the old caliper off and could pull at the piston boot
> without worry, I could definitely tell what the problem was. There
> was a good amount of rust on the side of the piston.


For some odd reason Honda, unlike Toyota, does not use semi-stainless
pistons. Always wondered why.

In any case, rust can be prevented through the judicious use of silicone
grease. I rebuilt my fronts about eight or nine years ago, using silicone
grease. The pistons are squeaky-clean at this moment. The originals rusted
up and seized pretty badly.


>
> thanks again.
>


Anytime.


--
Tegger

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/