newbie Honda CR-V questions

Hello Honda People!

I have almost bought a 1999 CR-V and was wondering if I could start my
education here with a few questions?( But if I should go and read a CR-
V 101 somewhere maybe someone could point me there?)

The car was originally registered in Canada. Is it the same car that
was imported into the states or were the specs different in each
country?

What would be the best book to get to learn about DIY maintenance
valve clearances mechanical info etc? Preferably with big pictures.

Ive read about the valve lash problem that Honda wont admit to and was
wondering if an '99 engine that did have its belt changed at
160,000kms would have had the valves checked at the same time? I have
no records past 34,000 kms should I be worried? It drives well no
misfires or anything but Im no expert on this subject...It has around
182.000kms on it now.

A condition of purchase is that the car gets a "100 point check out"
from a Honda dealer before I buy it We pay for this. Would a
compression test tell the whole story on the valves enough to say yes
or no to buying? Or should I just get the valves checked in addition
to the "100 point check"? OR is there some other way of achieving some
peace of mind about this?

The car is perfect for my wife and I apart from this Anything else I
should be worried about?


Thanks for so far

Michael

limehand wrote:
> Hello Honda People!
>
> I have almost bought a 1999 CR-V and was wondering if I could start my
> education here with a few questions?( But if I should go and read a CR-
> V 101 somewhere maybe someone could point me there?)
> ...

http://www.hondasuv.com/

and/or

http://www.crvownersclub.com/

limehand wrote:
> Hello Honda People!
>
> I have almost bought a 1999 CR-V and was wondering if I could start my
> education here with a few questions?( But if I should go and read a CR-
> V 101 somewhere maybe someone could point me there?)
>
> The car was originally registered in Canada. Is it the same car that
> was imported into the states or were the specs different in each
> country?
>
> What would be the best book to get to learn about DIY maintenance
> valve clearances mechanical info etc? Preferably with big pictures.
>
> Ive read about the valve lash problem that Honda wont admit to and was
> wondering if an '99 engine that did have its belt changed at
> 160,000kms would have had the valves checked at the same time? I have
> no records past 34,000 kms should I be worried? It drives well no
> misfires or anything but Im no expert on this subject...It has around
> 182.000kms on it now.
>
> A condition of purchase is that the car gets a "100 point check out"
> from a Honda dealer before I buy it We pay for this. Would a
> compression test tell the whole story on the valves enough to say yes
> or no to buying? Or should I just get the valves checked in addition
> to the "100 point check"? OR is there some other way of achieving some
> peace of mind about this?
>
> The car is perfect for my wife and I apart from this Anything else I
> should be worried about?
>
>
> Thanks for so far
>
> Michael
-------------------------------

When you strike the deal, insist they are going to adjust the valves as
part of your purchase. Then make sure they adjust them to the loose side
of the specs.

Since it's new to you, you'll want to change the tranny fluid at least
once, and the Dual Pump Fluid in the rear diff, if it's an AWD. Take it
for the 'Parking Lot Test' and if you hear a scraping / growling noise
when you turn a tight left-hand circle at low speed, insist they have to
change the dual Pump Fluid for free too. The owner's manual and all the
keys should also come with it.

Read through this thread, then sign in and SEARCH for others.

http://www.hondasuv.com/members/show...t=parking+test

The '99 is a good choice, more HP and you get the bonus of DRL and ABS
for sure, since it's from Canada, right?

'Curly'

On Mar 1, 11:39 am, motsco_ > wrote:
> limehand wrote:
> > Hello Honda People!
>
> > I have almost bought a 1999 CR-V and was wondering if I could start my
> > education here with a few questions?( But if I should go and read a CR-
> > V 101 somewhere maybe someone could point me there?)
>
> > The car was originally registered in Canada. Is it the same car that
> > was imported into the states or were the specs different in each
> > country?
>
> > What would be the best book to get to learn about DIY maintenance
> > valve clearances mechanical info etc? Preferably with big pictures.
>
> > Ive read about the valve lash problem that Honda wont admit to and was
> > wondering if an '99 engine that did have its belt changed at
> > 160,000kms would have had the valves checked at the same time? I have
> > no records past 34,000 kms should I be worried? It drives well no
> > misfires or anything but Im no expert on this subject...It has around
> > 182.000kms on it now.
>
> > A condition of purchase is that the car gets a "100 point check out"
> > from a Honda dealer before I buy it We pay for this. Would a
> > compression test tell the whole story on the valves enough to say yes
> > or no to buying? Or should I just get the valves checked in addition
> > to the "100 point check"? OR is there some other way of achieving some
> > peace of mind about this?
>
> > The car is perfect for my wife and I apart from this Anything else I
> > should be worried about?
>
> > Thanks for so far
>
> > Michael
>
> -------------------------------
>
> When you strike the deal, insist they are going to adjust the valves as
> part of your purchase. Then make sure they adjust them to the loose side
> of the specs.
>
> Since it's new to you, you'll want to change the tranny fluid at least
> once, and the Dual Pump Fluid in the rear diff, if it's an AWD. Take it
> for the 'Parking Lot Test' and if you hear a scraping / growling noise
> when you turn a tight left-hand circle at low speed, insist they have to
> change the dual Pump Fluid for free too. The owner's manual and all the
> keys should also come with it.
>
> Read through this thread, then sign in and SEARCH for others.
>
> http://www.hondasuv.com/members/show...highlight=park...
>
> The '99 is a good choice, more HP and you get the bonus of DRL and ABS
> for sure, since it's from Canada, right?
>
> 'Curly'

Thanks Curly...

Whats a DRL then? ABS brakes were just in Canada? This means there was
a US car and a Canadian car? (different import streams from Japan?)

I am learning fast I think but its great to think there are moe
knowledgable people i can ask. Especially when I get to building the
next engine with a V-TEC head...;^)

Michael

limehand wrote:

> Whats a DRL then? ABS brakes were just in Canada? This means there was
> a US car and a Canadian car? (different import streams from Japan?)
>
> I am learning fast I think but its great to think there are more
> knowledgable people i can ask. Especially when I get to building the
> next engine with a V-TEC head...;^)
>
> Michael
---------------------

Daytime Running Lights.

I think 90% of the Canadian CR-V's have ABS. I've only seen a couple
without, and I know one was a US import.

'Curly'

On Mar 3, 1:03 am, motsco_ > wrote:
> limehand wrote:
> > Whats a DRL then? ABS brakes were just in Canada? This means there was
> > a US car and a Canadian car? (different import streams from Japan?)
>
> > I am learning fast I think but its great to think there are more
> > knowledgable people i can ask. Especially when I get to building the
> > next engine with a V-TEC head...;^)
>
> > Michael
>
> ---------------------
>
> Daytime Running Lights.
>
> I think 90% of the Canadian CR-V's have ABS. I've only seen a couple
> without, and I know one was a US import.
>
> 'Curly'


Thanks Curly
Im just recovering from the cost of replacing the weatherstripping on
this potential purchase $960.00 CAD Im wondering if I should it myself
or something But wonder if I have to take out the door panels?

Have posted on this but maybe you can help with this?

cheers

Michael

limehand wrote:
> On Mar 3, 1:03 am, motsco_ > wrote:
>> limehand wrote:
>>> Whats a DRL then? ABS brakes were just in Canada? This means there was
>>> a US car and a Canadian car? (different import streams from Japan?)
>>> I am learning fast I think but its great to think there are more
>>> knowledgable people i can ask. Especially when I get to building the
>>> next engine with a V-TEC head...;^)
>>> Michael
>> ---------------------
>>
>> Daytime Running Lights.
>>
>> I think 90% of the Canadian CR-V's have ABS. I've only seen a couple
>> without, and I know one was a US import.
>>
>> 'Curly'
>
>
> Thanks Curly
> Im just recovering from the cost of replacing the weatherstripping on
> this potential purchase $960.00 CAD Im wondering if I should it myself
> or something But wonder if I have to take out the door panels?
>
> Have posted on this but maybe you can help with this?
>
> cheers
>
> Michael
----------------------------

Please tell us Who (told you) and Why you think you need your
weatherstripping replaced. I've never heard of such a crock . . .

Something to do with windows that go UP slower than DOWN? Too much road
noise? What possible excuse?

'Curly'

On Mar 3, 8:41 pm, motsco_ > wrote:
> limehand wrote:
> > On Mar 3, 1:03 am, motsco_ > wrote:
> >> limehand wrote:
> >>> Whats a DRL then? ABS brakes were just in Canada? This means there was
> >>> a US car and a Canadian car? (different import streams from Japan?)
> >>> I am learning fast I think but its great to think there are more
> >>> knowledgable people i can ask. Especially when I get to building the
> >>> next engine with a V-TEC head...;^)
> >>> Michael
> >> ---------------------
>
> >> Daytime Running Lights.
>
> >> I think 90% of the Canadian CR-V's have ABS. I've only seen a couple
> >> without, and I know one was a US import.
>
> >> 'Curly'
>
> > Thanks Curly
> > Im just recovering from the cost of replacing the weatherstripping on
> > this potential purchase $960.00 CAD Im wondering if I should it myself
> > or something But wonder if I have to take out the door panels?
>
> > Have posted on this but maybe you can help with this?
>
> > cheers
>
> > Michael
>
> ----------------------------
>
> Please tell us Who (told you) and Why you think you need your
> weatherstripping replaced. I've never heard of such a crock . . .
>
> Something to do with windows that go UP slower than DOWN? Too much road
> noise? What possible excuse?
>
> 'Curly'

"such a crock"......?

OK... I'm the one that doesn't know anything... I almost forgot there for
a second.

When the windows are powered down from being fully up (closed)
specifically the drivers window and its raining on this window (and
the other windows at the same time of course) the raindrops dont get
wiped off by the rubber stripping that is fitted horizontally on the
top of the door (not the very top of the door above the window but the
"top" where you can lean your arm on when sitting in the car with the
window fully down of course.

Now my assumption is that when this water goes in between the glass of
the window and the plastic/rubber piece (I call this piece weather
stripping) it continues down into the door and from there well I just
dont know where it goes but if the inside of the door (the metal
parts) gets wet and doesnt dry off it will rust and this might make a
hole in the door which of course will make me unhappy.

No one told me about this. I just sort of worked it out by myself.

cheers curly

Michael

limehand wrote:
> "such a crock"......?
>
> OK... I'm the one that doesn't know anything... I almost forgot there for
> a second.
>
> When the windows are powered down from being fully up (closed)
> specifically the drivers window and its raining on this window (and
> the other windows at the same time of course) the raindrops dont get
> wiped off by the rubber stripping that is fitted horizontally on the
> top of the door (not the very top of the door above the window but the
> "top" where you can lean your arm on when sitting in the car with the
> window fully down of course.
>
> Now my assumption is that when this water goes in between the glass of
> the window and the plastic/rubber piece (I call this piece weather
> stripping) it continues down into the door and from there well I just
> dont know where it goes but if the inside of the door (the metal
> parts) gets wet and doesnt dry off it will rust and this might make a
> hole in the door which of course will make me unhappy.
>
> No one told me about this. I just sort of worked it out by myself.
>
> cheers curly
>
> Michael
------------------------

Hmmmmm. I don't think any of my 8 CR-V windows 'squeegee' themselves
perfectly when going down.. There are three or four drain holes provided
at the bottom of the door, and a vinyl shield inside to keep the
moisture away from the controls and inner door panel. I've asked myself
whether I could adjust the trim that holds the 'squeegee' so it would
wipe better. I don't think it matters much since it NEVER comes up on
the newsgroups. www.slhondaparts.com has your parts diagrams. Your
owner's manual is at
https://techinfo.honda.com/rjanisis/...01_OMANUAL.asp

'Curly'

On Mar 4, 12:18 am, motsco_ > wrote:
> limehand wrote:
> > "such a crock"......?
>
> > OK... I'm the one that doesn't know anything... I almost forgot there for
> > a second.
>
> > When the windows are powered down from being fully up (closed)
> > specifically the drivers window and its raining on this window (and
> > the other windows at the same time of course) the raindrops dont get
> > wiped off by the rubber stripping that is fitted horizontally on the
> > top of the door (not the very top of the door above the window but the
> > "top" where you can lean your arm on when sitting in the car with the
> > window fully down of course.
>
> > Now my assumption is that when this water goes in between the glass of
> > the window and the plastic/rubber piece (I call this piece weather
> > stripping) it continues down into the door and from there well I just
> > dont know where it goes but if the inside of the door (the metal
> > parts) gets wet and doesnt dry off it will rust and this might make a
> > hole in the door which of course will make me unhappy.
>
> > No one told me about this. I just sort of worked it out by myself.
>
> > cheers curly
>
> > Michael
>
> ------------------------
>
> Hmmmmm. I don't think any of my 8 CR-V windows 'squeegee' themselves
> perfectly when going down.. There are three or four drain holes provided
> at the bottom of the door, and a vinyl shield inside to keep the
> moisture away from the controls and inner door panel. I've asked myself
> whether I could adjust the trim that holds the 'squeegee' so it would
> wipe better. I don't think it matters much since it NEVER comes up on
> the newsgroups. www.slhondaparts.comhas your parts diagrams. Your
> owner's manual is athttps://techinfo.honda.com/rjanisis/RJAAI001_OMANUAL.asp
>
> 'Curly'

I had a look at the two URL's you provided curly and neither added
more to what I know (not much) and this is the following.

The original strip did in fact come into contact with the glass and
therefore couldnt help but squeegee (good term) the glass (in my
opinion). I got this info from looking at a CR-V on the road side here
in Toronto it was quite tight and bent up a bit against the glass
quite different to my prospective car the strip on which seems to be
bowed out leaving a gap of three sixteenths I reckon in the middle.
Maybe this was caused by UV ? They seem brittle.

Thanks for the info about where the water goes by the way.

I called a couple of Honda dealers in Toronto and the part which is a
single piece is around $114.00 each. I then did a search and found a
couple of places where they were $26.00 or so, not so bad but I dont
know if I have to take off the panel inside the doors or just dig it
out from the outside and click a new one in (im hoping). One of the
parts girls said I had to take off the mirror on the front doors but
who knows? I get the impression these dealership parts people are all
in training still.
I am an old VW person that is sick of the unreliability of VWs these
days. And really like the CR-V when driving it. Its really perfect for
us. I just to make IT perfect 8)

Michael