Castle nut stuck

Ok, well - I have that all figured out. Now, I can't for the life on
me figure out how in the hell to get the circlip removed. I have ring
pliers, I even tried to get under it with a razor blade with no luck.
What's the trick?

Thanks


Cole wrote:
> Yes, it sure has been a project. I currently don't need my car for day
> to day travel and I'm on a relatively limited income, not to mention
> this has been sort of fun for me Plus, this needs to be done and
> the car has been incredibly reliable so I just want to make sure it
> stays that way.
>
> Ok, so an update. It was necessary to loosen the sway bar and the ball
> stud separated from the control arm easy. Now, and you read my mind,
> Speedy Pete--I need to remove the drive axle from the knuckle to remove
> and install the ball joint.
>
> I've taken a 2 lb dead blow hammer to the spindle nut and not had any
> lucky. Pry at the back? That sounds like a good way to go about it.
> This part makes me nervous though, I do not want to damage the bearing
> or any of the drive assembly. How hard can I hit the spindle without
> doing damage? Should I be concerned? I'm getting very close and more
> excited every step. After this, assuming success, I have to replace
> the passenger side half shaft
>
> I am indebted for your help,
>
> Cole
>
>
> Speedy Pete wrote:
> > Cole wrote:
> > >
> > > In order to separate the ball joint stud from the lower control arm
> > > will it be necessary to remove the damper fork, radius arm and sway bar
> > > or should I be able to remove all three? Any thoughts on pushing the
> > > ball joint out of the knuckle before separating from the lower control
> > > arm?
> >
> > Whew! this has turned into quite a project for you!!
> >
> > OK heres a recap of parts removal-
> >
> > You got the nut off. NOW find a GREAT BIG brass hammer and a pry bar.
> > Give the bottom of the spindle a big whack while applying prying action
> > to separate the joint. I got this great tip at a honda boneyard outside
> > Atlanta GA.
> >
> > The driveshaft will slide out once you separate the lower ball joint.
> > Leave the caliper on so you can undo the axle nut if you didnt think of
> > it before you took off the wheels. A LIGHT tap of a hammer should
> > dislodge it.
> >
> > All the other parts are incidental unless you are working on them.
> >
> > Sooooooo, why the heck are you putting up with all this turmoil anyway?
> > ALternnator replacement? Suspension upgrade??
> >
> > -SP

Circlip?? WHat ARE you doing???

-SP

Cole wrote:
> Ok, well - I have that all figured out. Now, I can't for the life on
> me figure out how in the hell to get the circlip removed. I have ring
> pliers, I even tried to get under it with a razor blade with no luck.
> What's the trick?

Ball joint replacement and I'm almost finished!

Now, I'm placing the spindle back into the knuckle and there's about a
1/4 or perhaps less of an inch of the drive shaft assembly that has not
fully fit into the knuckle. Is it appropriate to just take a hammer to
the hub to try to push it together or is there a more sophisticated way
to do it?

Thank you,

Cole



Speedy Pete wrote:
> Circlip?? WHat ARE you doing???
>
> -SP
>
> Cole wrote:
> > Ok, well - I have that all figured out. Now, I can't for the life on
> > me figure out how in the hell to get the circlip removed. I have ring
> > pliers, I even tried to get under it with a razor blade with no luck.
> > What's the trick?

Cole wrote:
>
> In order to separate the ball joint stud from the lower control arm
> will it be necessary to remove the damper fork, radius arm and sway bar
> or should I be able to remove all three?

just the damper fork.

> Any thoughts on pushing the
> ball joint out of the knuckle before separating from the lower control
> arm?

just separate the bottom joint, remove the fork and the shaft can be
removed from the knuckle and the transmission.

>
> Thank you,
>
> Cole
>
>
> jim beam wrote:
>> Cole wrote:
>>> I appreciate your tip on the spindle nut, I will heed it and go ahead
>>> and just buy a replacement. Is it necessary to replace it every time
>>> it is loosened?
>> yes.
>>
>>> Do you have a suggestion for the damper fork?
>> unbolt from the bottom of the shock. leave the top of the shock in place.
>>
>>> I'm not sure that with
>>> it on I will be able to separate the ball joint from the lower control
>>> arm or whether or not I can just keep it tight quarters.
>> gotta separate if you're going to replace the ball joint. do it before
>> you separate the top joint and the shock fork.
>>
>>> My preference
>>> would certainly be to not do so.
>> no choice!
>>
>>> I guess we will see
>>>
>>>
>>> P.S. I have rented a ball joint press.
>>>
>>> Thank you again for your help.
>>>
>>>
>>> jim beam wrote:
>>>> Cole wrote:
>>>>> Ok, I have the spindle nut off, the ball joint castle nut is off. Now,
>>>>> the fun begins
>>>>>
>>>>> What's the best way to remove the drive shaft? Just prying it lose
>>>>> from the back of the knuckle? Will it be possible to move it out of
>>>>> the way without removing the damper fork? What about the brake
>>>>> assembly? The shop manual is saying to remove it, but I don't see that
>>>>> it would be in the way, can I work around it?
>>>>>
>>>>> Thank you all!
>>>>>
>>>> dead blow hammer direct to the spindle end. should come right out. do
>>>> NOT use a steel hammer. you'll damage the axle, and worse, risk
>>>> brinelling the wheel bearing. don't pry from behind - you'll ruin the
>>>> boot. when replacing the axle nut, you should replace with a new one.
>>>> however, in emergency, you can re-use the old one by carefully abrading
>>>> the face of the nut where it rests on the hub. place the nut flat on a
>>>> smooth hard abrasive surface, a flat paving stone for example, and rub
>>>> the nut back and forth. then rotate one hex flat in your hand, then rub
>>>> again. repeat until the nut will screw back on to a different position
>>>> and you can cleanly re-peen the locking skirt. make sure the nut
>>>> remains flat and even when doing it. again, this is a temporary fix
>>>> until you buy the proper new locking nut.
>>>>
>>>> to replace the ball joint, you need a big vise or a hydraulic press.
>>>> unless you have this equipment, for the sake of a few bucks, it's worth
>>>> taking it to a shop to have them press in the new one. it takes them a
>>>> couple of minutes.
>

Just push the drivesaft in and put the nut on. You should be able to
pull it into place easily turning the nut.

-SP

Cole wrote:
> Ball joint replacement and I'm almost finished!
>
> Now, I'm placing the spindle back into the knuckle and there's about a
> 1/4 or perhaps less of an inch of the drive shaft assembly that has not
> fully fit into the knuckle. Is it appropriate to just take a hammer to
> the hub to try to push it together or is there a more sophisticated way
> to do it?
>
> Thank you,
>
> Cole
>
>
>
> Speedy Pete wrote:
>> Circlip?? WHat ARE you doing???
>>
>> -SP
>>
>> Cole wrote:
>>> Ok, well - I have that all figured out. Now, I can't for the life on
>>> me figure out how in the hell to get the circlip removed. I have ring
>>> pliers, I even tried to get under it with a razor blade with no luck.
>>> What's the trick?
>